[Styvy]

Hi Guys,

I hope someone can give me some advice. About 2 weeks ago I was changing oil in garage. I changed oil let the car run for 10 minutes and went for test drive. I heard a noise similar to crankshaft bearing being eaten...
So finally stripped out the the crankshaft to find both bearing and crankshaft appear to be good but still could not explain the noise. If it was crankshaft bearing I would be down at least 2k to replace the crankshaft.
Moving along on Saturday we removed the cylinder head and looked at housing... both cam's appear to be worn out to the point at certain points they were cooked but one thing I don't understand is sludge instead of oild. Has anyone seen anything similar.

View post on imgur.com

BtW I am fanatic of changing oil every 5k miles.

I would appreciate any ideas.

Regards,
Alex

[N5GKP]

I can't see very well as the quality doesn't come up great mobile, but have you been using the right grade of oil?
With sludge build up like that it's probably quite likely an oil gallery has blocked up causing oil starvation somewhere

[Styvy]

Originally Posted by N5GKP

I can't see very well as the quality doesn't come up great mobile, but have you been using the right grade of oil?
With sludge build up like that it's probably quite likely an oil gallery has blocked up causing oil starvation somewhere

Hey mate,

it's a good point. Last time I changed it in different garage I usually use... explains it a bit.

Thanks,
Alex

[Andystobbs]

Last time I saw one that bad was a failed head gasket on a N47, black as night under the cover but cams ok. Leaking fuel pump seal would also ruin the lubricity of the oil and cause rapid wear.
Crankshafts can be reground rather than replaced outright by the way.

[rasa bmw]

coukd even be dpf probs,,,this leads to diesel getting into oil ..as it cannot be burnt off during a dpf regen..

[Styvy]

Originally Posted by Andystobbs

Last time I saw one that bad was a failed head gasket on a N47, black as night under the cover but cams ok. Leaking fuel pump seal would also ruin the lubricity of the oil and cause rapid wear.
Crankshafts can be reground rather than replaced outright by the way.

Thanks mate for the suggestion. The seals appear ok. But I did discover copper ring on 1st cylinder injector is toast
I am putting the engine back cleaned with new gaskets, washers, seals etc. Will see if I can see if its oil starvation tomorrow Fingers crossed it will be fine.

In regards to crankshaft none of rebuild engineering shops do any reconditioning for them. I was told either a donor or new crank...

[Styvy]

Originally Posted by rasa bmw

coukd even be dpf probs,,,this leads to diesel getting into oil ..as it cannot be burnt off during a dpf regen..

Defo mate. in my case DPF is actually pretty clean but the pressure sensor is toast 30,000 kpa pressure reported lol and not changing.
The dpf is going to be taken out along with egr and all mapped out.

[Styvy]

Just a bit of an update.
Crankshaft and bearings are all good. Camshaft is a bit worn but was told it will be fine by rebuild specialist.
DPF is gone. EGR is coded out.
Also another funny thing I managed to somehow kill the intercooler. The top part looked as if I overboosted and it split.
The car starts the noise is gone but I have a new problem which sounds like injector ticks
Just did some googling and found out the injectors need adaptation... My mechanic probably have not done it. Fingers crossed.

[Andystobbs]

Have you changed the injector order?

[Styvy]

Originally Posted by Andystobbs

Have you changed the injector order?

Hey mate,

I recon they have all been messed around. I wasn't there when they were fitted. So I assume the injector tick is from lack of calibration. Since same injectors are inside. I had them tested and they came back not perfect but good

[Styvy]

Possibly last update:

Injectors have been put back in correct order. None of 6 injectors were in correct place hence On any gear or stationary injector tick noise was present.
The noise has not gone fully as I occasionally can hear it on rapid accelerations but new injectors are not cheap.I will let them work for a while and replace them when needed.

So in terms of summary:

1) Engine cleaned out as far as camshaft and crankshaft. Oil channels etc. New gaskets or any rubber components I can find.
2) Timing chains were replaced along with oil chain at the bottom. Oil pump was tested and It appears fine.
3) Waterpump and Thermostat has been replaced along with belt.
4) All injectors tested. new copper rings and cleaned out. 3 will need replacement in future at the minimum.
5) DPF has been cleaned out and welded back.
6) Remap complete with DPF and EGR delete.
7) All springs have been replaced with Eibach.
8) Rear 2 arms conversion to M3.
9) All vacuum pipes replaced.
10) Intercooler replaced.
11) Flexy pipe from Airbox to intercooler replaced as it was leaking.


Things to Do:

1) new crankshaft pulley is required in future...
2) New plastic bits which were damaged
3) oil change in next 1k miles.
4) Car clean inside and outside
5) engine cover needs to be put back.
6) potentially injectors and new MAF if needed. Time will tell


Regards,
Alex

[Styvy]

MAF issue is biggest contributor to injector tick it seems. Removing MAF cable and driving for a day I can barely hear injector tick.