[Efthreeoh]

So based on BMW's decision to code the oil monitor system to become inactive above 186,000 miles (300,000 kilometers), I initially thought the oil level/oil quality sensor was defective. Turns out it wasn't, but I decided to post a DIY to replace it anyway. The sensor is about $160 from on-line retailers. It's not a hard DIY, but I recommend changing it at an oil change interval to make the job easier, or you can reuse the oil if it is drained into a clean container.

I've posted it as a Adobe document so you can down load it, or print it as necessary.

This is a DIY for removal and replacement of the Oil Level/Oil Quality Sensor in the N52 engine. The sensor is located in the oil pan and comes out of the bottom, so the engine oil needs to be drained.
Parts needed:
• Oil Sensor BMW P/N 12 61 760 7910
• Oil Sender Gasket P/N 12 61 174 4292
Tools needed:

• Floorjack, and 4 jackstands
• 17MM socket and ratchet handle
• 8MM socket (or nut driver)
• 10MM socket (or nut driver)
• Torque wrench that can read in inch-pounds or is accurate in low torque settings.
• Flat-head screw driver, long-shaft for prying (or similar tool) - I used a snap-on trim button removal tool

Basic Procedure:
1) Lift car onto 4 jackstands
2) Remove engine splash shield
3) Drain engine oil
4) Remove Oil Sensor unit
5) Install the new Oil Sensor unit
6) Fill engine with new oil
7) Reinstall engine splash shield


The sensor comes packaged in an ESD (electro-static discharge) bag, so keep in the bag until you need to install it.

Details are in the attachment.

[pruettfan]

Wow, if the oil monitor become inactive at 186,000 miles I will be doing this DIY. I am only a few hundred miles away from that milestone. Thanks for the DIY

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

Wow, if the oil monitor become inactive at 186,000 miles I will be doing this DIY. I am only a few hundred miles away from that milestone. Thanks for the DIY

There is no need to replace the sensor when the oil monitor becomes inactive. Replacing the sensor does not solve the problem. It is a software fix that BMW needs to develop that codes out the entire oil life monitor system in the CBS.

[pruettfan]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

There is no need to replace the sensor when the oil monitor becomes inactive. Replacing the sensor does not solve the problem. It is a software fix that BMW needs to develop that codes out the entire oil life monitor system in the CBS.

Thanks, am I correct in assuming it goes to a purely mileage based oil change or will the system only measure the level and leave the intervals up to me?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

Thanks, am I correct in assuming it goes to a purely mileage based oil change or will the system only measure the level and leave the intervals up to me?

I posted a thread on this in the maintenance section if you want more details. What BMW will tell you is to start changing the oil on a mileage interval. The paperwork I got from the dealer recommended a 7,500 mile OCI. Until BMW comes up with a software fix, the CBS will remind you at every key-off that the oil service is past due (annoying). The CBS counts down from 0 miles, so every key-off show in negative numbers how far past the last oil change the car is at. The fix is supposed to code out the oil change notification all together. Now, with my car, at 186K or so, the CBS would not allow an oil change reset through a scan tool like a BT scan tool that I have. Then at 212K it reset to about half of my normal OCI. At 221K, it wouldn't reset at all and only went to zero miles.

[pruettfan]

Thanks Efthreeoh. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. We should start a thread for the 180,000 plus club to discuss the unique issues that pop up. I am hoping to get mine to 240,000 miles and then pass it on to my daughter for her first car if it remains reliable.

Tom

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by pruettfan

Thanks Efthreeoh. I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. We should start a thread for the 180,000 plus club to discuss the unique issues that pop up. I am hoping to get mine to 240,000 miles and then pass it on to my daughter for her first car if it remains reliable.

Tom

Well I'm at 236K. If your car is in as good shape as mine is (even half as good), then I'd say your daughter should be looking forward to very nice first car. That said, owning a 240K BMW is not for the timid and I hope you educate her on the finer elements of car ownership so she is keen on when problems may crop up that need to be addressed.

I believe our young people are so coddled now a days they rely far too much on their cell phones to save them from agony. Case in point, my Nice was allowed to borrow my Mother's 2005 Ford Five Hundred to drive it to college(my Mom recently passed the stage where it is not save for her to drive anymore); long story short, in the matter of a few weeks my Nice was able to somehow kill the engine and thus total the car. The Five Hundred had about 50K on it and was in excellent mechanical shape (I did an oil change on it just this past June and went through the whole thing). - Sorry venting a little. But with owning a 240K E90, your daughter will learn some valuable car knowledge that most kids her age will never get. I believe it will be beneficial later in life for your daughter to have the experience of owning a high mileage car. Good for you!

[Zc_eg6]

My sensor went out at 94k. I haven't replaced it yet, just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit. I've been keeping a close eye on it though.

[o2bad455]

Yikes... We're around 190K on an E83 2008 X3 3.0si Sport (N52 engine) and noticed that we can't check the oil level from the cluster anymore. The progress bar scrolls for a few minutes (with the boxed circle now showing - which didn't show before) but then just ends without displaying any result. It's a scary issue due to a recent oil leak and no provision for any dipstick on this engine, so obviously we don't want to let it run low on oil (or significantly overfill)! Is the after 186K coding issue supposed to disable both oil level and quality? I was about to replace the sensor and oil despite very recently changing the oil and filter already, but if it's a coding issue instead, how can I check the oil level before driving again?

[JF - 2008 328 BMW CV]

I actually bought the part, but it turned out that it was the harness connected to the Oil Level Sensor that was broken. BMW wouldn't take the part back.

[southpaw0306]

Originally Posted by o2bad455

Yikes... We're around 190K on an E83 2008 X3 3.0si Sport (N52 engine) and noticed that we can't check the oil level from the cluster anymore. The progress bar scrolls for a few minutes (with the boxed circle now showing - which didn't show before) but then just ends without displaying any result. It's a scary issue due to a recent oil leak and no provision for any dipstick on this engine, so obviously we don't want to let it run low on oil (or significantly overfill)! Is the after 186K coding issue supposed to disable both oil level and quality? I was about to replace the sensor and oil despite very recently changing the oil and filter already, but if it's a coding issue instead, how can I check the oil level before driving again?

The coding change just gets rid of the oil change interval service light, the oil level sensor will still read oil level. My oil level service stopped resetting after this past oil change at 223k, so I performed the coding to get rid of the service light and I can still read oil level. Hope this helps.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by JF - 2008 328 BMW CV

I actually bought the part, but it turned out that it was the harness connected to the Oil Level Sensor that was broken. BMW wouldn't take the part back.

Not surprising because the part is susceptible to electrostatic discharge, which is why it comes in an ESD bag.

[Nathan328i]

thanks for the thorough diy - you mention 18NM or 75 in-lbs. ....I am guessing you meant 18NM or 160 in-lbs? trying to understand which is the correct number 18nm or 75 in-lbs. thanks.

[JB20DGM]

Originally Posted by Nathan328i

thanks for the thorough diy - you mention 18NM or 75 in-lbs. ....I am guessing you meant 18NM or 160 in-lbs? trying to understand which is the correct number 18nm or 75 in-lbs. thanks.

Technically it's two stage...first is pretty much finger tight (2nm / 18in-lbs), basically to ensure even contact between the sensor and pan I guess. The final torque value is 8.5nm (75 in-lbs).

[Nathan328i]

Originally Posted by JB20DGM

Technically it's two stage...first is pretty much finger tight (2nm / 18in-lbs), basically to ensure even contact between the sensor and pan I guess. The final torque value is 8.5nm (75 in-lbs).

i'm having a leak at that spot. It's either the sensor or the o-ring. Just now i checked the nuts to see if they were tight. I can't seem to get them to tighten up. It's as though I'm squishing the level sensor's plastic body (between the metal cover and oil pan). The studs attached to the oil pan are not spinning (it's a 1 year old oil pan) - just doesn't want to get nice and snug. could it be because the entire thing is filled up with oil and that is preventing it from tightening up?

[JB20DGM]

It should get tight regardless of any oil there. If the studs indeed aren't spinning, then potentially a nut/stud is stripped out which is preventing the tightening.

[Nathan328i]

purchased a new o-ring and nuts, cleaned everything up and put it back together. now everything is nice and snug. was extremely careful not to overtighten - had to go old school 'feel' method as even my small torque wrench only goes down to 100 in-lbs. fingers crossed no more leaks.