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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > Blown Diverter Valve



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      07-31-2016, 12:07 PM   #1
cahme
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Blown Diverter Valve

I've had a boost leak for a few months now that I've been living with. The leak was audible with windows down as well as identifiable via JB4 logs. It started about the same time I flushed my coolant (and removed the FMIC), but apparently unrelated.

In diagnosing, I pulled all of the post turbo plumbing checking for o-rings/seals, cracks, leaks and found none. I used a leak tester with compressed air connected to the inlet side of the turbo and could find nor hear any leaks other than @ the tester.

Well, yesterday, I broke down and replaced the only piece I thought it could be that I had not checked .. the Diverter Valve, replacing with a GFB DV+. Pulling the old clearly identified this was the issue. A pic is good for 1000 words ... pics from 3 different angles:



My car had about 120k miles when I believe the leak started and I've been mostly on Map 0 ever since driving it really easy. Now that the leak is solved and gone, it's like I got a new engine


The install wasn't too difficult and I did it on jack stands in my garage. I mostly followed the water pump DIYs avail, but I didn't disconnect the thermo or hoses (except the WP hose to drain coolant). I also pulled the intake tube to turbo and hot side piping to have a good view/access from the top. I find it helped greatly with the top WP bolt. Looking back on it, I think it could have been done without draining the coolant

The biggest issue I had was with the top-most DV bolt. There's a metal line which got in the way of my 5mm allen socket. I ended up cutting the lower leg off of an "L" allen wrench and inserting the now straight, long allen-key into a 1/4" 5mm socket.
The top right bolt in this pic was the difficult one. This angle of the pic is from a bit underneath, but that metal line just above it prevented my allen socket from getting square.


Here's the cut "L" allen wrench in a 5mm socket:




Edit: Files inserted in the thread seem to keep loosing permissions; I've attached them as well to keep them local to the site.
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Last edited by cahme; 09-11-2017 at 08:00 AM..
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      07-31-2016, 12:54 PM   #2
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no pics...curious to see
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      07-31-2016, 01:11 PM   #3
cahme
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Pics should be good now .. I had some messed up links originally.
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      07-31-2016, 01:17 PM   #4
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What sympyoms and codes where you getting? What's the oem part #?
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      07-31-2016, 01:53 PM   #5
cahme
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The only code I've gotten was 2C57, low boost and I'd get the half-engine reduced power mode. This happened about 3-4 times total and I don't believe it was boost leak related. When it would happen, I'd get zero boost with my foot in it a bit and then get the code/light. I'm 99% sure that was my boost solenoid going out. I replaced it in June (I think) and haven't had that issue again.

The only symptoms I've had was the audible sound of a boost leak with the windows down (think diesel truck), very long spool-up times, and anywhere from 1-3 psi of actual boost being lower than target boost in JB4 logs.

I don't have the OEM part # as I went with the Go Fast Bits DV+ to replace the failed guts of the OEM one while still using the OEM solenoid.

Look at this thread for more details of me going through the options.

Last edited by cahme; 07-31-2016 at 01:58 PM..
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      08-04-2016, 12:05 AM   #6
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Nice writeup cahme. That rubber diaphragm is exposed to a little more than full boost pressure at all times (boost minus intake vacuum) so it's not surprising that it pops after a while, though 5 years hardly seems like "a while". Note that it's not exposed to boost leak-testing pressure, only turbo-generated boost.

VW uses what appears to be the same valve and it bursts in the same way:
http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/volks...for-your-tfsi/

P.S. Looks like you coulda used a ball driver to get to that bolt.
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      08-05-2016, 11:35 PM   #7
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Thanks for sharing the details. I had a feeling our stock part was a piece of crap. So many things are not designed to last on these cars. Good thing the aftermarket is kicking in with good replacements that eliminate the issue.
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      08-06-2016, 06:06 AM   #8
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I've purchased the gfb dv+, just waiting to install it. Did you install with spring or without. I plan on doing with. If it was with, spring, what is the added sound that they mention. Good, bad, annoying?

And performance change i.e. Hold boost better, decreased spool times? Or was that all crap?

Thanks
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      08-06-2016, 08:59 AM   #9
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I did install with the second spring. So far, I've had no CEL nor any soft codes.

Sound-wise, I'm probably not the best to give opinions. I've had the leak sound (and have stayed out of the throttle) a few months, so it's been a while since I've heard a healthy DV in action. With that said, I don't think it's a significant change in sound.
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      08-10-2016, 10:01 PM   #10
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I just installed one. It's a must for n55s. Car feels dramatically more responsive now.

The Allen key bolts were a pain in the ass. Such a simple part to replace too. I had the water pump out of the car so it have me plenty of room to work. I ended up connecting a screwdriver m5 bit and a couple 1/4" sockets in series to get the right length between the valve and the aformentioned steel line.
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      08-14-2016, 02:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cahme View Post
I did install with the second spring. So far, I've had no CEL nor any soft codes.

Sound-wise, I'm probably not the best to give opinions. I've had the leak sound (and have stayed out of the throttle) a few months, so it's been a while since I've heard a healthy DV in action. With that said, I don't think it's a significant change in sound.
no significant change in sound is good information.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bNks334 View Post
I just installed one. It's a must for n55s. Car feels dramatically more responsive now.

The Allen key bolts were a pain in the ass. Such a simple part to replace too. I had the water pump out of the car so it have me plenty of room to work. I ended up connecting a screwdriver m5 bit and a couple 1/4" sockets in series to get the right length between the valve and the aformentioned steel line.
thats what i like to hear. can't wait to get mine installed now!!
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      07-02-2019, 04:55 PM   #12
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I'm having a very similar issue but on my n55 135i, does this video sound familiar? I'm thinking my diverter valve is going bad.
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      07-06-2019, 06:48 AM   #13
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You should defenetly be installing the GFB DV+ with optional main spring. Instead of fully discharging excess boost it only partially purges the ammount needed so you always retain some boost for when you need to rebuild it. This really enhances the way the car responds to throttle application, I love it.

As far as for sound, with the main spring there are some differences since everytime you let go off throttle you will hear the DV+, even if it was for less than a second, because of the partial boost purge at all time. As for the tone of the sound, it really isn't that difderent.

Other than that, get ready for a very messy and hectic job if you have a xDrive. I did a fully detailed guide for xDrive if anyone needs it.
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      07-10-2019, 09:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly View Post
You should defenetly be installing the GFB DV+ with optional main spring. Instead of fully discharging excess boost it only partially purges the ammount needed so you always retain some boost for when you need to rebuild it. This really enhances the way the car responds to throttle application, I love it.

As far as for sound, with the main spring there are some differences since everytime you let go off throttle you will hear the DV+, even if it was for less than a second, because of the partial boost purge at all time. As for the tone of the sound, it really isn't that difderent.

Other than that, get ready for a very messy and hectic job if you have a xDrive. I did a fully detailed guide for xDrive if anyone needs it.
interested in the guide.
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      07-10-2019, 09:48 AM   #15
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Lax1085, I hope this might help you. Don't hesitate to ask me for more info.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1) Drive your car on your ramps.


2) Start by removing all of the coolant in the expansion tank with a bleeding kit.


3) Remove the expansion tank of the engine bay. To do this you unclip the top coolant line and you pull. You then remove the lower one that is also retained by a clip. You remove the electrical connector by pushing on one of the sides and pulling and finally you remove the two bolts which are 10mm or 8mm I don't recall. Your expansion tank is now ready to be removed, you simply pull it out of the grommets it's sitting on.


4) Go under the car and remove the plastic undertray with an 8 mm socket.


You will now notice that on the subframe side facing the front of the vehicle you will have 3 attached components. Coolant lines, Power steering lines, and the swaybar.


5) Detach the Power Steering lines from the subframe. You will notice that it is held in two spots and that there are rubber boots resting on metal brackets welded to the subframe. If you lift these rubber boots a bit, you will see a sort of nut. It's around 18mm. You put a wrench there and then under that bracket, you use a 10mm socket to remove the nut while still holding the 18mm wrench. When the nut is out, you pull the lines upwards to get the bolts out of these brackets and you can then move that around and have a bit more space to play with.


6) Detach the Coolant lines from the subframe. The coolant lines are attached to the subframe in two spots by some 10 mm bolts. Get a socket and remove these. You will notice that this coolant line was the one that we removed from the bottom of the expansion tank. It is still attached to the thermostat by a clip connector.


7) I then proceeded to detach the sway bar. It is held by 4 13mm bolts located at the two ends of the subframe near each wheel. You simply take a socket and remove these. They might be well tightened. When you remove these, the sway bar will be able to move more freely left-right and a bit forward-backward which will save you a lot of time when getting the water pump and thermostat out.


When all of the above done you then start to work on the thermostat. It has 1 electrical connector and 4 coolant lines. It is held onto the water pump by 2 10mm bolts. Even if we removed a lot of coolant from the expansion tank, there is still a lot that comes from the radiator and other components so be ready to catch coolant every time you remove a line.


8) I started by removing the coolant line that was addressed in step 6). I pulled on the clip to disengage the lock and pulled back the connector from the thermostat. This line was finally free and I worked the top of it down the car and let it rest under the car and out of my way.


9) I then proceeded by removing the electrical connector. If I recall it was a push and pull. That part is pretty simple and you can figure it out simply by looking.


10) Next step that I did was removing the big coolant line that is coming from the radiator to the thermostat. Again, pull on the clip to disengage it and pull the connector out of the thermostat. It might be hard to pull out.
*USUALLY A LOT OF COOLANT COMES DOWN FROM THAT LINE*


11) After that, I removed a little coolant line that was connected to the top of the thermostat if I recall. This one was retained by a hose clamp that I unscrewed with a flat head screwdriver. Since it is held by a clamp and not a quick disconnect clip, this pipe might be really pressed onto the thermostat and hard to remove. Just continue pulling on it till you get it off.


12) The final hose that I removed was the one that is located at the back of the thermostat and that loops and connects to the water pump. It is also held by a hose clamp. To have access to that hose clamp, you have to lay under the car, with your head a bit behind the passenger wheel. There is a little spot where you can put your hand under the wastegate and reach that clamp and hose on the thermostat side to pull on it. To unscrew it, you can do it from the side facing the passenger wheel with a flat head screwdriver while still looking at the clamp from the spot I told you. When it is loose enough, pull like a train on that damn chubby hose. If it doesn't work keep on pulling, I know it's a tight spot but you will eventually get it.


13) Finally, grab a 10 mm socket to remove the first bolt connecting the thermostat to the water pump. Then use a ratchet wrench to remove the other one, since getting a socket there is quite hard and just too much of a hassle.


14) The thermostat is now free. You can move the hose you removed out of your way and maneuver the thermostat out of the car.


Be careful to clean the inside of the thermostat before reinstalling it since some impurities probably got in while you pulled hoses and took it out.


It's now time to start working on the water pump. You will need 3 new screws to mount back the water pump. This is the code of the screws that I used, it may be different for you, just double check: 11517602123.


The water pump is held by 3 inverted Torx E12 bolts. These are torque to yield so they have to be replaced. It also has 2 coolant lines where 1 is already loose since we remove the end that was connecting it to the thermostat. It also has one electrical connector.


15) I started by removing that one remaining big coolant line. It is held by a hose clamp, so again, grab your flathead screwdriver and loosen the clamp. Same as the other, pull hard on it to get it out.


16) Next step that I did was remove the big electrical connector located at the back of the water pump. On the right side of that connector (Passenger side), there is a clip that has to be firmly pushed and then you can pull the connector.
*If you are having a hard time removing the connector, start by doing step 17), pulling the water pump out and then come back to remove the connector.*


17) The only thing remaining for the water pump is to remove the 3 inverted E12 Torx bolt. Two of them are located at the bottom while 1 is located at the top. You should now have enough clearance to get to the top one with sockets and extension and get it out. For the bottom ones, the one that is the most towards the front of the car is also easy to remove with the right extension setup. You might have to move the sway bar in a configuration allowing you to reach these bolts without any disruption. Finally, the last bolt is a bit harder to get since it's in a tight spot. You might need to use a universal joint or very specific sizes of extension to get to that one. Another trick that I used and that works very well but that I don't recommend especially if your bolts are pretty rusted, was to use an SAE 3/8" 12 Point (Star-shaped, NOT HEX) ratchet wrench to remove it. I removed that bolt and even reinstalled the new one that way, it worked very well for me.


18) The water pump is now ready to be removed. You can move all the detached coolant lines and sway bar out of your way to finally wiggle and maneuver the water pump out of the car.


There it is, you can finally clearly see the diverter valve apart for the topmost bolt that hidden by the DV itself. There is 1 electrical connector and 3 5mm Allen bolts holding the DV to the compressor.


19) The first step was to remove the electrical connector that was held by a quick disconnect clip. Pull gently on that clip to disengage it. Gently since it is prone to fly out of its seat if you pull too much on it and it is a true hassle to find. When it is disengaged, pull the connector out.


20) Here comes the final step. Removing the 3 Allen bolts. My bolts were pretty rusted up so I started by scrapping the inside of the bolt head to clean it and remove all corrosion and rust layers. I then soaked the three bolts with penetrating oil. If you have a 5mm Allen socket, just chuck that one in your extensions that will vary for which bolt you are working on. When these bolts are removed, the DV will be loose and you can finally pull it out. If you don't have a 5mm Allen socket, try to find a 5mm L shaped Allen key to cut and put into a socket, or go buy one.


Since you are buying the GFB DV+ there is provided instructions. When installing the OEM solenoid part of the DV onto the DV+ plate, make sure to align the bulge on the OEM part with the groove carved into the DV+ plate and then push hard in order to press-fit these two parts together. Also, when reinstalling the DV, make sure that the golden piston doesn't come out of it when placing it!


Reinstalling everything should be much easier since you already know where everything goes and you already worked the pipes up. Just follow these steps somewhat in some sort of backward order.


!IMPORTANT!
When you are all done, put coolant back in the reservoir till it reaches the maximum and prime the coolant system. To do so, hop in your car, turn the ignition on and put heat on the lowest level and highest temperature. Turn off all other unnecessary electric equipment. You then press and hold the gas pedal with the ignition on but engine off for about 15 seconds. The pump will now start to prime the coolant system. You can hear it as well as the coolant running. After a while, it will be done and the level of coolant in the expansion tank will be below the minimum. Keep on doing this till the level after priming is still at the maximum of the expansion tank level.
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      05-02-2023, 05:57 AM   #16
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I have a 2015 M235i manual, low mileage at 42k miles. Been having progressive worse on off throttle delay especially in comfort mode, better but still evident in sport. It feels like a boost leak. I know what a boost leak feels like from my R21T and 335i days. I've had the charge pipe replaced with Forge, a smoke test done and I've replaced all plugs and coils. I get no codes. When i do a throttle reset the thing has loads more power but still a lag and soon goes back to same behaviour. I get a whistle from left side of the car (opposite to turbo) on part throttle and goes away on WOT but can hear air on intake - perhaps charge pipe resonance or air filter box.

Does this sound like a DV issue? My mind is saying could be carbon build up or injectors also.
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