[NRigs]

Has anyone with a boost adapter installed on their charge pipe noticed higher IATs? I recently installed a meth kit using the dinan boost adapter to tap for boost pressure to the controller. While logging, my IATs don't drop as much as I would expect while the meth is spraying. Also, it was 60° on my commute home, traffic most of the way and my IATs hit 130°. That seems a bit high. It looks like the aluminum boost adapter is acting like a heat sync and soaking up the hot air in the engine bay and keeps the TMAP sensor out of the direct air flow. If anyone has experienced something similar, any advice would help. Thanks!

[Turbod]

Originally Posted by NRigs

Has anyone with a boost adapter installed on their charge pipe noticed higher IATs? I recently installed a meth kit using the dinan boost adapter to tap for boost pressure to the controller. While logging, my IATs don't drop as much as I would expect while the meth is spraying. Also, it was 60° on my commute home, traffic most of the way and my IATs hit 130°. That seems a bit high. It looks like the aluminum boost adapter is acting like a heat sync and soaking up the hot air in the engine bay and keeps the TMAP sensor out of the direct air flow. If anyone has experienced something similar, any advice would help. Thanks!

I am pretty sure the "Boost adapter" you're talking about it meant to be installed at the MAP sensor not the TMAP. Did it come with any instructions?

[NRigs]

Originally Posted by Turbod

I am pretty sure the "Boost adapter" you're talking about it meant to be installed at the MAP sensor not the TMAP. Did it come with any instructions?

It did not. Also, there is no way this thing will fit where the MAP sensor is. Doesn't the MAP sensor in the intake manifold only read up to 5 psi though?

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

The TMAP Sensor located on the chargepipe measures the absolute pressure while the computer displays the relative pressure and it also grabs temperatures.

The MAP Sensor located inside the intake manifold measures the vacuum.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1360341

Now comes the part that is a bit confusing. The MAP sensors used in our cars are exactly the same. Same part number, same construction, EXACTLY the same. The only difference is on the computer side, what reading it decides to take from the sensor. You can even swap these sensors with each others.

The stock sensor, pressure wise, reads up to an ABSOLUTE pressure of 2.5 Bar which is arround 36.25 PSI. Atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 PSI. RELATIVE pressure = PRESSURE READING - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE and this is what that is actually displayed by MHD. So on your monitor, the sensor can't read past 22 PSI. Theoritically it should be the same limit for the one in the manifold unless the DME has a restriction on that reading.

Edited

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly

Okay I think you might be a bit confused here.

The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor is located on the chargepipe. It measures the absolute pressure while the computer displays the relative pressure.

The Temperature Manifold Absolute Pressure (TMAP) Sensor is located inside the intake manifold. It measures the intake temperature of the air.

Now comes the part that is a bit confusing. The TMAP and MAP sensor used in our cars are exactly the same. Same part number, same construction, EXACTLY the same. The only difference is on the computer side, what reading it decides to take from the sensor. You can even swap these sensors with each others.

The stock sensor, pressure wise, reads up to an ABSOLUTE pressure of 2.5 Bar which is arround 36.25 PSI. Atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 PSI. RELATIVE pressure = PRESSURE READING - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE and this is what that is actually displayed by MHD. So on your monitor, the sensor can't read past 22 PSI.

You have it exactly backwards. Temp is measured from the charge pipe sensor.

To the OPs comment about the manifold sensor only reading 5psi, why would that matter? I'm assuming this adapter is to connect a vacuum line for a boost gauge?

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by weehe126

You have it exactly backwards. Temp is measured from the charge pipe sensor.

To the OPs comment about the manifold sensor only reading 5psi, why would that matter? I'm assuming this adapter is to connect a vacuum line for a boost gauge?

I did not get it completly backward, but I did get a part wrong though.

I know for a fact that the pressure is measured inside the chargepipe, because this is where I swapped my sensor for a N20.

It seems like the temperature would also be measured in the chargepipe and vacuum data measured in manifold.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1360341

To get back to the main topic, OP, I have a hard time believing that the small metal adapter could affect the temperatures to that extent.

[NRigs]

So what everyone is saying is I should switch over the boost adapter to the intake manifold MAP sensor. I am not 100% sure it will fit there though.

[TheGoodTheBadTheUgly]

Originally Posted by NRigs

So what everyone is saying is I should switch over the boost adapter to the intake manifold MAP sensor. I am not 100% sure it will fit there though.

I guess you might have to do that depending on how your controller behaves? What meth controller do you have?

[NRigs]

Originally Posted by TheGoodTheBadTheUgly

I guess you might have to do that depending on how your controller behaves? What meth controller do you have?

I am using the AEM V2. I could also get a tap for the second bung I have on my VRSF charge pipe. I wish they didn't put it on the underside of the pipe though. They should have put them next to each other on the top

[NRigs]

I just ordered a 90° 3/16" barbed 1/8" NPT fitting. Going to give this a shot.

This is how it is currently set up:

[Turbod]

I would assume that any difference in the temperature reading is due to the sensor no longer being in the path of the air. It sounds like the 1/8 fitting could be a good solution for your adapter.

[NRigs]

Originally Posted by Turbod

I would assume that any difference in the temperature reading is due to the sensor no longer being in the path of the air. It sounds like the 1/8 fitting could be a good solution for your adapter.

Yeah. For short trips it isn't an issue but when trips reach over 45 minutes the IATs start to get high and I have to constantly be on boost to trigger the meth to cool the temp back down to 20° or so above ambient.

[Turbod]

Originally Posted by NRigs

Yeah. For short trips it isn't an issue but when trips reach over 45 minutes the IATs start to get high and I have to constantly be on boost to trigger the meth to cool the temp back down to 20° or so above ambient.

The temps themselves wouldn't be different with this installed it would just report higher temps. Although methanol does a great job cooling, spaying methanol right before the temp sensor is reporting a false reading of actual temps. This is great for the tuning side where temps will not be reported high enough to pull timing though. I would guess that the cast aluminum is holding some heat within the part once the engine gets up to operating temps.

[f87CSdrifterential]

Might be easier to swap the controller for the V2 MAP/MAF unit. It would definitely be much cleaner. You would need to repin the harness and run a lead to the MAP, but for $149 your headache is gone.

[NRigs]

Update: I installed the 90° vacuum fitting to my second meth bung on my charge pipe and that fixed the IAT issue. I am still having an issue where meth is coming up through the boost hose and into the meth controller causing meth to leak out the controller. I am also beginning to think there is a boost leak in the controller as I am getting extremely large boost spikes at the beginning of WOT.

https://datazap.me/u/nrigs/baseline-...14&zoom=41-108

Probably going to switch to the MAP/MAF controller like everyone else. On that note, which wire off the TMAP do I tap? Is it the yellow wire?

[NRigs]

Originally Posted by e82drifterential

Might be easier to swap the controller for the V2 MAP/MAF unit. It would definitely be much cleaner. You would need to repin the harness and run a lead to the MAP, but for $149 your headache is gone.

I got my meth kit from a friend. We didn't want to tear out his harness so he ordered me a new harness with the MAP/MAF wire already pinned so I just need the new controller.

[f87CSdrifterential]

90% sure it's the yellow wire. Put mine away for the winter yesterday so it's not accessible. I installed the N20 TMAP with BMS adapter.

[NRigs]

Update again:

I installed the MAF/MAP controller. Got the blue wire tapped into the yellow wire at the TMAP. 1st attempt at plugging the controller in (start/full was at 0% i think) meth started spraying full everywhere. This was solved by turning the start up to 100%. My question is, how do I know which % on the controller is 10 psi? Do I have to log in my car and watch for 10% while turning the controller knob? Any guidance on the controller setting for 10 psi would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[f87CSdrifterential]

There are no set instructions that I found for the controller. The answer I got from a fellow member was with the nozzle/line out (spray into a bottle) and the car running at idle, turn the start knob up until the pump isn't spraying/running on its own.

This is easier done with a second person, but with the knob all the way down it should start pumping liquid. Essentially you have one person at the outlet of the hose and the other at the pump. The controller start is turned up until it isn't pumping at idle.

Hope that makes sense.

[NRigs]

Originally Posted by e82drifterential

There are no set instructions that I found for the controller. The answer I got from a fellow member was with the nozzle/line out (spray into a bottle) and the car running at idle, turn the start knob up until the pump isn't spraying/running on its own.

This is easier done with a second person, but with the knob all the way down it should start pumping liquid. Essentially you have one person at the outlet of the hose and the other at the pump. The controller start is turned up until it isn't pumping at idle.

Hope that makes sense.

I did what you mentioned and then while driving I watched my boost PSI to see when the pump turned on and I adjusted the knob so it would turn on at or around 10 psi. Thanks!

[Turbod]

I just deleted the information unfortunately but it is voltage from 0-5v. The voltage can be correlated to a boost pressure but I no longer have the resource. Wedge helped me when I was setting mine up.

[NRigs]

Just heard back from wedge:

So at 0% it will spray even if map is 0v (vacuum).

For 2.5bar tmap set start to 60% (3v) which should be around 9psi and full to 80% (4v) which should be around 17psi.

For 3.5bar tmap set start to 45% (2.25v) which should be around 9psi and full to 60% (3v) which should be around 17psi.