[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by al330

Thanks for the reply Zig. I am not sure if they did the seals. The shop says they did the valve body, solenoids and separator plate. I am up in Denver, if I was closer I would totally have you take a look. I will have the adaptations reset and see if that does the trick. Thanks again for the help!!

Interesting. Keep us posted.

[lalord69]

Originally Posted by snayko

I'm also in "solenoids replacement" club.
If somebody needs DIY I can write it down. I did some pictures plus I have ZF manual

do you mind pm or posting your diy guide for these selenoids?

thanks

[maf330xi]

ahaha all this time I thought it was normal. 2006 330xi here and I've noticed the delayed jerk from 1st -> 2nd gear. I'm going to try playing around with the gears in DS mode and see if its reproducible there.

I've already done the fluid flush, filter replacement and mechatronics sleeve update for the ZF transmission so I'll ask my mechanic to take a look at the solenoids.

Thanks for all the input and helpful instructions OP!

Edit:
The maintenance work done on the transmission was a while ago so I didn't bother checking for this delay. But do you think I'll need to buy the mechantronic sleeve again or re-use the one I currently have?

[stashtrey]

Originally Posted by snayko

I'm also in "solenoids replacement" club.
If somebody needs DIY I can write it down. I did some pictures plus I have ZF manual

Would love to see a DIY for this!!

[snayko]

Sorry didn't have enough time or just was lazy
Will do today.

[alika808]

Originally Posted by zigsman

The logical steps to take in order are:

1. Reset adaptations
2. Update software
3. Complete transmission service
4. Replace transmission seal adapter and mechatronics seal with solenoid replacement

I caution you though...this is an expensive process if you follow that order. If you are going to do the work yourself, I would suggest starting with number 4 and complete number 1 and 3 at the same time. If you are having a shop do the work and you are doing it in this order, you will be charged twice for the transmission service because everything must be drained out to replace the solenoids.

Mr. Zigsman,

Item #1 and #2 are these a must to do after replacing the solenoids? I appreciate for your input. Thank you.

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by alika808

Mr. Zigsman,

Item #1 and #2 are these a must to do after replacing the solenoids? I appreciate for your input. Thank you.

#1 is a must if you would like to "reset" the way the transmission shifts, it is HIGHLY recommended. #2 is not required, but it is always a good idea to keep all the software updated in your vehicle.

[snayko]

BTW we have a small DIY on solenoids replacement http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1193573
Even though there are plenty of videos on that topic that Is more helpful I think

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

MAF sensor!

[Paull11]

HI folks , im having the same issue! i purchased the car last thursday , and returned on Friday, bought it from a private Dealer, the Rear Wheels are completely done, car was vibrating so bad, Dealer ordered two Wheels , they are waiting for it . i told them that i could notice a Delay Downshifting from 2 to 1 Gear. I've call them 1 h ago they told me that they're still waiting for the wheels and than they will take the car to BMW, I've print the Solenoid fix from this Thread, and show it to them , they said that they drove the car and it was normal ! BShit.... if they don't solve this issue ill use the Lemon Law....

[ThatRWD]

Lemon Law applies to a new cars only I believe. And perhaps only the original owner.

[XM_Rocks]

Originally Posted by ThatRWD

Lemon Law applies to a new cars only I believe. And perhaps only the original owner.

Yeah, it's original car purchased by the original owner and the problem has to be attempted to be fixed 3 times in the manufacturers warranty period by the manufacturer.

I lol'd when I read what he wrote.

[Paull11]

Nop guys , I've double checked the laws here in Mass... They explain everything. The warranty covers the engine and trans..., I did a loan , and the bank told that they didn't fund the dealer until I call them.
It seems a really quick fix , the problem is they always try to save some money. If they take the car to the dealer , they won't replace the Seleoids, the Steler will try to sell a brand new trans... I'm sure they r not willing to spend that $$$$.

http://www.mass.gov/ocabr/consumer-r...ranty-law.html

[Gblagdon333]

Got some questions for Zigsman and Snayko. Thanks for the wealth of information I've already gained from this thread.

Got an e90 330Xi auto w/58k miles

A few weeks ago after running fine in the morning the car started to shift odd. Hard up and downshifts and late shifts, pretty much everyone has been experiencing. I've cleaned the MAF and tried resetting the adaptations with the throttle trick (I don't think it works)

So I am onto changing the solenoids as it seems most likely because its shifting hard in manual sport also.

Some questions I have are:

1. Does the BT tool support the adaptation reset that is necessary for the project? I was planning on getting it anyways so this would be great. I am nowhere near the point to try getting DIS capabilities.

2. The transmission name plate is for the parts list is corroded and cannot be read. Know of any other way, short of removing the pan to determine the parts list? I am going to contact CTST also.

That's all I have for now to get everything I need together but I am sure I will have a bunch more questions once I get into it next week. Will take a bunch of pictures for another DIY.

Thanks Guys
-George

[Empire777]

Originally Posted by going nuts

Zigsman,
Are you still out there? Are you sure the solenoid change will take care of the issue? I saw your in the Phoenix area. Are you a mechanic? Do you have a shop? I'd like a little assurance. I'd even be willing to drive up there from San Diego as I'm going nuts putting money into this money pit of a car.
I have a 2007 335i with 69K miles. It is doing the same hard down shift from 2nd to 1st. I already dump a couple grand in getting the intake walnut blasted because it was misfiring. Now the dealer wants 8K for a new trany. Of course since there's no codes given they don't know what to do, so they just say put a new trany in it!
Are these parts you have the links too good parts and not made in china crap?
Or is it better to get them from BMW?
I know... a lot of questions...that's why going nuts!
Your help is greatly appreciated.

Hey zigs man I'm here in az and having the same issue with the gears going from 2-1
I need help and to see if you may help fix it ! Please give me a response new to the website and don't know how to message on here !

[Paull11]

Well , returned the 328 xi today ... Dealer told me that they can't spent all that money on the car! At least I don't have to deal with the issue ... Now looking for a 335i convertible... Hoping to have some good power ...

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Gblagdon333

Got some questions for Zigsman and Snayko. Thanks for the wealth of information I've already gained from this thread.

Got an e90 330Xi auto w/58k miles

A few weeks ago after running fine in the morning the car started to shift odd. Hard up and downshifts and late shifts, pretty much everyone has been experiencing. I've cleaned the MAF and tried resetting the adaptations with the throttle trick (I don't think it works)

So I am onto changing the solenoids as it seems most likely because its shifting hard in manual sport also.

Some questions I have are:

1. Does the BT tool support the adaptation reset that is necessary for the project? I was planning on getting it anyways so this would be great. I am nowhere near the point to try getting DIS capabilities.

2. The transmission name plate is for the parts list is corroded and cannot be read. Know of any other way, short of removing the pan to determine the parts list? I am going to contact CTST also.

That's all I have for now to get everything I need together but I am sure I will have a bunch more questions once I get into it next week. Will take a bunch of pictures for another DIY.

Thanks Guys
-George

Try PM them...private message directly.

[maneco]

Originally Posted by zigsman

I'm reluctant to say "yes", but it is a possibility. Mine would do it in D and M modes, but not DS. The reason was that in DS mode, the car does not shift into 1st gear when coming to a stop as it does in D mode. So, I could be at a stop light, go into manual (M) mode, and manually shift between 1 and 2. On the downshift to 1, the car would physically jolt! (even while stopped). Try to isolate the gear. Drive it in manual mode and between all gears (up and down). Once you think you found it, shift between those two gears multiple times to verify. This is how you will know if you have a bad solenoid.

You might just need a drain/service, you may not need a new solenoid if this does not happen in manual mode.

Hi Zigsman, first of all thanks for your great advises and your good willing to help people "in troubles" (like me). I'd love to live a bit closer Phoenix to get your help, but I'm afraid I'm a little far from you, 5786 miles south, in Uruguay.
I have a 2005 BMW E60 530d (diesel) with exactly the same syntoms like your bmw (used to) have.
My car has the annoying jerk when stopping, downshifting 2 to 1, in "D" mode, not in "DS" and in "M" as you say, it not goes to 1st gear when stop so there's no problem. As you said too, in "M" mode, with the car stopped, downshifting from 2 o 1 jerks, but upshifting 1 to 2 it makes a really horrible bung/slam that even moves the car, it's really scaring.
The only thing different, (maybe is different between models) is that I am preety sure in my case on "DS" mode it downshift to 1 gear too (like in "D") but with a difference in the speed/RPM when downshift. In D mode is around 3 MPH, while in DS is near 10 MPH. So this is the reason why in DS it not jerk when stopping just like it don't jerk when -in "M" mode- you downshift at 10 MPH or so. If you let the car almost stop when you downshift (3 MPH) the jerk is there (like in "D" mode.).
So I'm in the same way, looking for a solenoid kit to replace, but I like to hear from you what do you think about my comments and if my situation could change your diagnosis about the solenoids.
I have the option to update the egs too (my soft is old) but I don't know if it's a long time process. I don't have a voltage regulator, so I'm afraid to drain the battery and break the update. Is it necessary to update the DME/DDE too?

Another thing I notice, (and you not commented), is that I feel an important delay between the time you accelerate and the effect in the car. Sometimes when I have to cross a route when cars come quickly -for example- I hit the pedal a fraction time before I should, when the car is still crossing, to ensure I can cross quickly behind him. But it seem this is a different issue, isn't it? I change MAF a few weeks ago but this sensation is still the same.

Sorry for my poor english, thanks again to everybody in this forum, and I would ask to people who gets help and solve his problems, not to forget to post how they do it.
Best regards

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by maneco

Hi Zigsman, first of all thanks for your great advises and your good willing to help people "in troubles" (like me). I'd love to live a bit closer Phoenix to get your help, but I'm afraid I'm a little far from you, 5786 miles south, in Uruguay.
I have a 2005 BMW E60 530d (diesel) with exactly the same syntoms like your bmw (used to) have.
My car has the annoying jerk when stopping, downshifting 2 to 1, in "D" mode, not in "DS" and in "M" as you say, it not goes to 1st gear when stop so there's no problem. As you said too, in "M" mode, with the car stopped, downshifting from 2 o 1 jerks, but upshifting 1 to 2 it makes a really horrible bung/slam that even moves the car, it's really scaring.
The only thing different, (maybe is different between models) is that I am preety sure in my case on "DS" mode it downshift to 1 gear too (like in "D") but with a difference in the speed/RPM when downshift. In D mode is around 3 MPH, while in DS is near 10 MPH. So this is the reason why in DS it not jerk when stopping just like it don't jerk when -in "M" mode- you downshift at 10 MPH or so. If you let the car almost stop when you downshift (3 MPH) the jerk is there (like in "D" mode.).
So I'm in the same way, looking for a solenoid kit to replace, but I like to hear from you what do you think about my comments and if my situation could change your diagnosis about the solenoids.
I have the option to update the egs too (my soft is old) but I don't know if it's a long time process. I don't have a voltage regulator, so I'm afraid to drain the battery and break the update. Is it necessary to update the DME/DDE too?

Another thing I notice, (and you not commented), is that I feel an important delay between the time you accelerate and the effect in the car. Sometimes when I have to cross a route when cars come quickly -for example- I hit the pedal a fraction time before I should, when the car is still crossing, to ensure I can cross quickly behind him. But it seem this is a different issue, isn't it? I change MAF a few weeks ago but this sensation is still the same.

Sorry for my poor english, thanks again to everybody in this forum, and I would ask to people who gets help and solve his problems, not to forget to post how they do it.
Best regards

It's really up to you whether or not you want to update the DME and the rest of the car. It may or may not help you, it did not help me at all. As far as the hesitation with acceleration; that is a different problem and can be caused by an assortment of issues such as a bad MAF, which you have already replaced. It could be be plugs, coilpacks, VANOS, low octane fuel, fuel injectors, etc. If you have not completed a tune-up on schedule, I would start with that to solve your hesitation issue.

[stratman3]

Glad I came across this post after doing a search. My car has the downshift bump coming to a stop but I've also noticed it's delayed going from park to reverse. I had a local independent BMW shop quote me around $700 to do the fix on page 1. Does the price sound fair? Also had another shop say my tranny was on it's way out.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by zigsman

#1 is a must if you would like to "reset" the way the transmission shifts, it is HIGHLY recommended. #2 is not required, but it is always a good idea to keep all the software updated in your vehicle.

Hey Zigsman,

How is it going..


Was reading this post again, do you know the latest tranny software version for our cars e90 330i? I never done any updates so I wonder if I should or not.

My tranny is good, I sometimes get hesitation on 1-2nd gear. No issues downshifting. I am also due for new coils and vanos. i did a fluid flush couple of years ago but never reset adaptations or did any software update. cheers!

[zigsman]

Originally Posted by stratman3

Glad I came across this post after doing a search. My car has the downshift bump coming to a stop but I've also noticed it's delayed going from park to reverse. I had a local independent BMW shop quote me around $700 to do the fix on page 1. Does the price sound fair? Also had another shop say my tranny was on it's way out.

Are you talking about the transmission service and seal adapters? If so, then, yes, $700 is a good deal. The oil alone is going to run around $400. If you are talking about replacing all the solenoids in the transmission, those alone cost around $700.