[3.1L Z]

Originally Posted by jeffvb9

Thanks for this DIY. Just did this over the weekend. Took 3 hours roughly but as others have stated could do it in under 1 hour after having done it once and knowing whats what. I didnt unclip the window and left it up the entire time. One thing I want to mention that was not in this write up is where to access the allen bolt to undo the exterior door lock. Its on the side of the door and you have to remove the circular plastic plug to see it. So I did take the exterior lock off which helps a TON. Its very easy to put back and honestly dont see how anyone could remove the actuator without removing this. I did unbolt the two 10 mm bolt that hold the bar that runs vertically with the tension wire behind it. I was able to move the bar in at the bottom enough to slide out the actuator. You can push on the bar a decent amount and more than you think to get it out. Those two plugs that are attached to the actuator that hold the wire in place are a freaking nightmare to remove. I broke one of them and got one out ok. All in all its pretty straight forward.

How does the "cone shaped" connector come out of the actuator? Does it come out with the lock?
Thanks.

[3.1L Z]

Well, I answered my own question. Yes it does. See pics.
One other thing. The white cover in the picture, which the screwdriver is pointing too, did not come on my new unit. So, I'm going to move it to the new unit. Just fyi..Don't know if it has to be there but don't overlook this white cover just in case.

[Masud_Ali]

Thanks for sharing this thread.It really helped and allowed me to repair my own lock for the first time.Almost gave the feeling like a professional locksmith and i felt happy.Firstly it does not worked that easily, I have got problem with cable and after some struggle I really figured it out.

[Augster]

So if my door does not UNLOCK (ONLY) via FOB and dash switch, but opens via key and still LOCKS, then that still requires replacing the entire latch?

It's no where near $35 only; it's at least $105 via ECS Tuning and BMW Parts Pros (not including any shipping and applicable sales tax/handling).

[3.1L Z]

Huh? Not sure what is working or not but the key will always work when this lock unit goes bad. It won't work with the FOB or dash button. Yes, you need to buy the entire unit. If you're saying the FOB does lock but does not unlock or vise versa its not fully crapped out yet.It will crap out all a round.

[Augster]

Originally Posted by 3.1L Z

Huh? Not sure what is working or not but the key will always work when this lock unit goes bad. It won't work with the FOB or dash button. Yes, you need to buy the entire unit. If you're saying the FOB does lock but does not unlock or vise versa its not fully crapped out yet.It will crap out all a round.

Yea, it still locks via remote and dash switch. I'm just trying to understand how the latch would fail in which only one feature does not work electrically (unlock).

And just want to confirm that it's the latch before I place the order.

[ryanpeters89]

Just finished doing both front doors in mine a few minutes ago. The guide was great. Total time ~2 hours. Biggest pain was that I didn't know that there was an additional torx screw under the passenger door handle . I was able to get the old actuators out with the windows rolled all the way up and unscrewing the two 10mm bolts from the black metal window guide. Also, there are actuators on Amazon $100 for both sides if anyone needs them.

[Augster]

Has anyone bought a true, genuine BMW door latch, such as from a local dealer directly? Do the new latches still have the BMW logo molded in the plastic?

I bought new latches from two different people and both claimed that their parts were "genuine OEM" latches; one of them was stamped and molded completely different than the original part I pulled out of my car, and the other came in a sealed box with a "BMW GROUP" label completely with BMW part number and text "1 Stueck / Piece" and "Made in Germany" but like the other seller, the part was made completely different; and of course, neither had BMW logos molded in their plastic.

UPDATE:
Worried that what I bought were not true OEM or BMW, I bought one directly from a BMW dealer and it looked exactly like the other two: redesigned completely and with most distinguishable markings removed, included no BMW logo molded in the plastic.

[MUrhino]

I just finished this DIY tonight. Took me a little over 3 hrs to do both front Driver and Pax sides...w/ ample hydration of course

Picked up the set for $89 from http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._E095124A.aspx

I also picked up a couple fasteners and replacement 20A fuses for fuse #'s 56 and 57, so the total was under $100 for the entire fix. Beats the stealership by far!

You can search pelicanparts.com to confirm part numbers, but they work like a charm so far. Came in what appeared to be official BMW parts boxes/labels. The passenger side went much quicker since there wasn't the outer key lock to remove or mess with. I also like to look around and had some trial and error w/ fasteners.

I disconnected my battery but all my radio stations and memory settings were stored. I don't have iDrive if that matters, but there ya go. Had to fix it before I sell it or trade it in (she's an '06...and I'm tired of doing things like this). Great thread DIY.

[tsiu6]

Hello,

So my driver door is stuck shut, and locked. I tried the cam trick on Page 4, but there is no cam that I can see on my lock. I am close to just taking a drill and drilling the bajeezus out of hte acutator to open the door and finish the replacement. Any other advice? super frustrated here.

[tsiu6]

Update with this. I didn't drill it out. I stuck screwdrivers in it and turned the gears, then went and tried to unlock it with the Key and it worked (where as before with the key it had previously failed). After that, the install was a breeze, took 45 minutes and didn't remove the window.

[memoire101]

Is it possible to open an actuator on a 2009 bmw 335i ...i mean open it and repair it ...not change old by new one ...open the actuator than replace part to make it work again ...?


Open it ? Yes it is possible to open it .... i did it few minutes ago


Repair it ? Well see the pics and deliberate on them lol

[asmd]

My 328i drivers side lock suddenly will no longer unlock, only lock using the fob.
I can DIY this, just need to confirm the part numbers.. the 143/146 parts cost more each than this 51217263086 or this 51217272999 .

I called my BMW center and they said they had 51217263086 in stock for 93$ for a set but could not confirm it would fit my car because their system cant pull up the specifics even though they have it in stock.

Just wanted to confirm that it is indeed the correct part before i make the drive out.

Thanks in advance for any and all replies, much appreciate the help!

Regards,
asmd.

[VTECaddict]

Originally Posted by asmd

My 328i drivers side lock suddenly will no longer unlock, only lock using the fob.
I can DIY this, just need to confirm the part numbers.. the 143/146 parts cost more each than this 51217263086 or this 51217272999 .

I called my BMW center and they said they had 51217263086 in stock for 93$ for a set but could not confirm it would fit my car because their system cant pull up the specifics even though they have it in stock.

Just wanted to confirm that it is indeed the correct part before i make the drive out.

Thanks in advance for any and all replies, much appreciate the help!

Regards,
asmd.

Yes, that is the right part for the "repair kit". It comes in a box with the 143/146 individually boxed inside it.

[asmd]

Thank you for the reply!
Much appreciated.
The dealers closest to me sells it for 93$ + tax in their parts store.
Strange, when i can get it shipped for about 10 bucks less....
oh well.
Will get to doing it after labor day.

[Babyface1249]

If anyone needs part 51217202146, I've got one I'd like to sell. Thought thus might be a good place to post since most readers here will be doing this replacement.

[LsuGeaux]

If my passenger side door won't unlock or lock. If I do this DIY will it fix the problem? 2006 325i

[Augster]

Originally Posted by OvOszn

If my passenger side door won't unlock or lock. If I do this DIY will it fix the problem? 2006 325i

I have to confidently say, yes. The electrical circuit in these latches apparently are prone to failure around this age.

The only other possible causes would be an open circuit upstream (broken wire) or defective ECU affecting just the passenger door; both highly doubtful.

[rshew]

Yes, should fix the problem. Happened to my car last year.

[richeerich03]

Originally Posted by MountainStone

Thanks so much for this tip! My driver's rear door was stuck closed and I would never have figured out how to open it without this advice. Just swapped out the lock actuator using this thread; thanx to OP for posting this excellent DIY.

FWIW: I did not lower the window or disconnect the battery, and there's no need to loosen the window regulator on the rear door. Nobody should be afraid to make this repair; it's too easy and saves hundreds.

[Pilot1981]

Hi,
I have only sometime problem with inner manual opener on driver side, what you suggest?

- only use svitol on lever of manual opener without open nothing

or

- only detach all door lock mechanism, disassembly it and than use grease on this lever


what you suggest it's best way to solve my problem?

[Pilot1981]

dealer suggested me to change both open mechanism...