[LMB335IS]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

Thanks for the link to the steering angle calibration. One question, what does "make sure you have coded the DSC using NCS Expert" mean? Would that be adding DSC if your car didn't have it?

That means default (expertmode, factory coding, etc) code the DSC module with NCS Expert, which translates to resetting the DSC module to factory settings based on the VO of the car.

Great example, I just did this today for a local guy. He had his ABS/DSC unit fail and replaced it with a used one, very common considering the ridiculous amount a new one commands. He bled the brakes but that was all he could do without the software to match the module to the car so he drove around for a few days with the dash lit up like a Christmas tree.

So step one is to write the VIN to the module. You can use Tool32 but I prefer WinKFP because I'll update the software at the same time, if needed, killing two birds...

Step two is default code the module using NCS expert

Step 3, and this is where ISTA really comes in handy, is DSC valve calibration, there's a couple routines, brake bleeding, and SAS reset. ISTA will tell you exactly what to do, in what order, and is capable of doing it all. You could do DSC calibration with INPA but I think that menu is still in German but it can't do the SAS.

Run a vehicle test for any remaining faults, there should be none in the DSC at this point, you're done, and you saved $1k+.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by LMB335IS

That means default (expertmode, factory coding, etc) code the DSC module with NCS Expert, which translates to resetting the DSC module to factory settings based on the VO of the car.

Great example, I just did this today for a local guy. He had his ABS/DSC unit fail and replaced it with a used one, very common considering the ridiculous amount a new one commands. He bled the brakes but that was all he could do without the software to match the module to the car so he drove around for a few days with the dash lit up like a Christmas tree.

So step one is to write the VIN to the module. You can use Tool32 but I prefer WinKFP because I'll update the software at the same time, if needed, killing two birds...

Step two is default code the module using NCS expert

Step 3, and this is where ISTA really comes in handy, is DSC valve calibration, there's a couple routines, brake bleeding, and SAS reset. ISTA will tell you exactly what to do, in what order, and is capable of doing it all. You could do DSC calibration with INPA but I think that menu is still in German but it can't do the SAS.

Run a vehicle test for any remaining faults, there should be none in the DSC at this point, you're done, and you saved $1k+.

Ah, I get it. Very handy way to avoid the Stealership.

[JonEQuest]

UPDATE: I notice3d that my headlights didn't auto adjust when I went up my driveway so I turned the wheel and did my best to check the angle sensor arm that goes on the left front suspension. The metal clamp that holds it to the arm was a little loose so it has some slop. I wiggled it up and down to see if the headlights would move and no dice. I plan to pull the wheel off when I get time and check it out. BUT that was the other day. I drove the car today for the first time since then and I currently have NO WARNING LIGHTS ON! I think that either the plug was loose or maybe it was a little out of range due to the slop and I may have jarred it to where it needs to be again. Like I said I need to check it out better by jacking the car up and pulling the wheel off, etc. but I think that may be the cause of the 3 errors lights. I also was able to turn on and off the DTC and the cruise control also seemed to work tonight. Both of those were inoperable when the warning lights were on.

[JonEQuest]

Originally Posted by JonEQuest

UPDATE: I notice3d that my headlights didn't auto adjust when I went up my driveway so I turned the wheel and did my best to check the angle sensor arm that goes on the left front suspension. The metal clamp that holds it to the arm was a little loose so it has some slop. I wiggled it up and down to see if the headlights would move and no dice. I plan to pull the wheel off when I get time and check it out. BUT that was the other day. I drove the car today for the first time since then and I currently have NO WARNING LIGHTS ON! I think that either the plug was loose or maybe it was a little out of range due to the slop and I may have jarred it to where it needs to be again. Like I said I need to check it out better by jacking the car up and pulling the wheel off, etc. but I think that may be the cause of the 3 errors lights. I also was able to turn on and off the DTC and the cruise control also seemed to work tonight. Both of those were inoperable when the warning lights were on.

Update. I found that the spring clamp that holds the sensor arm to the control arm was very, very loose. I tightened it up and after driving the car less than 1 block the lights went out. AWESOME!........ but........ I also had just found a bad injector and replaced it so since my engine was running stronger than ever, I turned off DTC and did a couple of nice burnouts in a wet parking lot. But that seems to have turned the 3 lights back on. Has anyone heard of a burnout triggering these lights? I think I caused the same symptom (3 lights) with a different problem.