[salpone]

guys today I tried to put discs and caliper l back.
with the zimmermann E60 discs, I do not have to cut anything at the clamp, it's perfect in the middle

first of all the holes of the caliper support bolts should be widened, the exact hole is to be done, but it is better to do it 13 and extend it outwards, then I'll explain why.
Another thing to change, I cut with a little bit of the protective bulkhead that is near the caliper bolt holes, to allow the new caliper to conform better.




put the disc, I repeat the E60 series, perfect sock, the only thing touches in the lower part of the guard, then always with flex, I remove the edging.




cleaned with abrasive paper, past iron brush on the hub, I cleaned and passed some black paint for protection



now we put the clamp. It seems strange but fits perfectly in the middle, we do not need to mill anything.




do you remember initially I said to "enlarge" the hole from 13 of the caliper bolts to the outside? yes because in the central part of the caliper the disk passes for very little so it is better to bring the pinza a little further towards the outside also to make sure that the pads work on the whole disk.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by salpone

first of all the holes of the caliper support bolts should be widened, the exact hole is to be done, but it is better to do it 13 and extend it outwards, then I'll explain why.

do you remember initially I said to "enlarge" the hole from 13 of the caliper bolts to the outside? yes because in the central part of the caliper the disk passes for very little so it is better to bring the pinza a little further towards the outside also to make sure that the pads work on the whole disk.

I explained this sometime in 2015. Never the less, good job!

[BlueM3Wagon]

Originally Posted by salpone

guys today I tried to put discs and caliper l back.
with the zimmermann E60 discs, I do not have to cut anything at the clamp, it's perfect in the middle

first of all the holes of the caliper support bolts should be widened, the exact hole is to be done, but it is better to do it 13 and extend it outwards, then I'll explain why.
Another thing to change, I cut with a little bit of the protective bulkhead that is near the caliper bolt holes, to allow the new caliper to conform better.




put the disc, I repeat the E60 series, perfect sock, the only thing touches in the lower part of the guard, then always with flex, I remove the edging.




cleaned with abrasive paper, past iron brush on the hub, I cleaned and passed some black paint for protection



now we put the clamp. It seems strange but fits perfectly in the middle, we do not need to mill anything.




do you remember initially I said to "enlarge" the hole from 13 of the caliper bolts to the outside? yes because in the central part of the caliper the disk passes for very little so it is better to bring the pinza a little further towards the outside also to make sure that the pads work on the whole disk.

Wait, so you drilled the knuckle instead of pressing new bushings in the rear caliper?

[Aus335iguy]

Yes that's what he did.

[Firechicken]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

Wait, so you drilled the knuckle instead of pressing new bushings in the rear caliper?

he did exactly that, will save you ca. 150$ but basically destroys the knuckles.

it will work perfectly, no question there, but now I see a problem if he will ever want to return to stock calipers as I plan to someday, taking the brakes with me to the F30 when I upgrade in a few years..

nonetheless, happy to see that he made it work after so much time.. salpone did you manage to weld the handbrake pads??

[salpone]

Originally Posted by Michaellcoates

Wait, so you drilled the knuckle instead of pressing new bushings in the rear caliper?

yes

[salpone]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

he did exactly that, will save you ca. 150$ but basically destroys the knuckles.

it will work perfectly, no question there, but now I see a problem if he will ever want to return to stock calipers as I plan to someday, taking the brakes with me to the F30 when I upgrade in a few years..

nonetheless, happy to see that he made it work after so much time.. salpone did you manage to weld the handbrake pads??

€ 150 is money, well save, then if I have to put the old brake calipers, I light the bushings to the holes and spend less.
for the handbrake I think I make the bushing of the drum from 185 to 160

[mikee5]

"for the handbrake I think I make the bushing of the drum from 185 to 160"

A better idea might be to have your handbrake shoes relined as discussed in post 2 of this thread https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum...e-kit-t121655/

[salpone]

Originally Posted by mikee5

"for the handbrake I think I make the bushing of the drum from 185 to 160"

A better idea might be to have your handbrake shoes relined as discussed in post 2 of this thread https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum...e-kit-t121655/

since I have to use the translator I did not understand what he did
he removed the jaws of his model for the 160, and put the jaws 185 of the 325d?
are they interchangeable?

[Firechicken]

Originally Posted by salpone

since I have to use the translator I did not understand what he did
he removed the jaws of his model for the 160, and put the jaws 185 of the 325d?
are they interchangeable?

they are not interchangable, a firm removed the brake material from his brake shoe and refitted it with 15mm thicker brake material than original, a lot of firms that refurbish clutches do that sort of work..

something like this..




Just take your 160mm brake shoes off, buy a set of 185mm (they are extremely cheap, from 10-30€, https://www.autoparti.it/ricerca?keyword=34416761292) and simply weld them together, doesn't get cheaper and simpler than that.

To insert a big 15mm thick bushing in your brake disk that rotates at big speeds could only bring problems with balancing.

[salpone]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

they are not interchangable, a firm removed the brake material from his brake shoe and refitted it with 15mm thicker brake material than original, a lot of firms that refurbish clutches do that sort of work..

something like this..




Just take your 160mm brake shoes off, buy a set of 185mm (they are extremely cheap, from 10-30€, https://www.autoparti.it/ricerca?keyword=34416761292) and simply weld them together, doesn't get cheaper and simpler than that.

To insert a big 15mm thick bushing in your brake disk that rotates at big speeds could only bring problems with balancing.

thanks, I'm thinking about how to do it



.....To insert a big 15mm thick bushing in your brake disk that rotates at big speeds could only bring problems with balancing

of this I am not convinced

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Firechicken

they are not interchangable, a firm removed the brake material from his brake shoe and refitted it with 15mm thicker brake material than original, a lot of firms that refurbish clutches do that sort of work..

something like this..




Just take your 160mm brake shoes off, buy a set of 185mm (they are extremely cheap, from 10-30€, https://www.autoparti.it/ricerca?keyword=34416761292) and simply weld them together, doesn't get cheaper and simpler than that.

To insert a big 15mm thick bushing in your brake disk that rotates at big speeds could only bring problems with balancing.

These parts are stationery.

[Firechicken]

Originally Posted by feuer

These parts are stationery.

Exactly, the brake shoes are stationary, that's why I find it best to either weld them or even make them thicker like the lad on the UK forum did.

What our italian friend wants to do is to insert a metal ring inside the brake drum to make it's diameter smaller, and as we know the diskm you have to replace the brake discs.
In 300k km I changed the discs 10x, but still rocking factory handbrake shoes..

Needless to say, it's his car and he chooses what mods to do, I am only giving my opinion from an engineering point of view.

[salpone]

past high temperature epoxy primer

[salpone]

Porche acid green , my Msport brake. (made by me)

[poseidonhkg]

I'm done with orange [IMG]undefined[/IMG]

[Aus335iguy]

Originally Posted by poseidonhkg

I'm done with orange [IMG]undefined[/IMG]

That looks sick. Those guards look pumped are they modified ?

[poseidonhkg]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

That looks sick. Those guards look pumped are they modified ?

The alignment looks good... What's wrong you observed?

[Aus335iguy]

Originally Posted by poseidonhkg

The alignment looks good... What's wrong you observed?

Sick meaning it looks good

[poseidonhkg]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

Sick meaning it looks good

thank you!!!

I got the custom bushing from Sebastian but a little bit loose when pressing into the hole, (actually, I can press it by hands), thus, just machining more tight of bushing and hole. Same as you guys, cutting the protection plate and using the E60 rotor that's it....

No more modification....

[Aus335iguy]

Originally Posted by poseidonhkg

thank you!!!

I got the custom bushing from Sebastian but a little bit loose when pressing into the hole, (actually, I can press it by hands), thus, just machining more tight of bushing and hole. Same as you guys, cutting the protection plate and using the E60 rotor that's it....

No more modification....

The result looks great, from this angle your fenders look pumped. Are they standard ?
What wheels are those I'm sure other people will ask as well

[poseidonhkg]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

The result looks great, from this angle your fenders look pumped. Are they standard ?
What wheels are those I'm sure other people will ask as well

The fenders look pumped probably caused by light reflection... This is standard.

For the wheel, this is model ZE40, a piece of fored wheel from Ray's Racing