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      01-17-2020, 09:25 AM   #23
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Well, I ended up going with something a little less tacky that will hopefully still be a decent tire and have good grip. I was ready to pull the trigger on the Michelin Pilot Sport 4’s at $260 each, but after reading a lot of reviews, decided to go with the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tire at $197 each. It sounds like they are just a rebadged Bridgestone Potenza RE003, and those have a great reputation. The Firehawks are an Ultra Performance Summer Tire……and are supposed to be decent in the rain, and really good on dry pavement. From everything I found online……they are just a good of a tires at the PS4’s, unless you start pushing them hard on the track….and then the PS4’s really start to shine.

I figured I can give them a try……I’ve seen a lot of Camaro, Mustang, Charger guys online making pretty big power who say they really hook up on the street. We’ll see I guess……

They're fine. I always say 90% of the performance for 60% of the cost of a PS4S.
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      01-18-2020, 01:02 PM   #24
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Yea those tires did nothing for me for the rear...
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      01-18-2020, 01:45 PM   #25
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Yea those tires did nothing for me for the rear...
Yeah you need 200tw or r888r to actually hook
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      01-20-2020, 06:13 AM   #26
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r888r or another true r comp, if not a drag radial. Tyres are a consumable and also one of the single biggest factors in realising your cars potential. Stopping , accelleration and cornering. If you skimp on them you face unused potential in turbo, brake and suspension uupgrades. Hell you will be losing all kinds of races you would easliy win. 'Oh yeah but, I have 500rwhp you beat me because I have crap tyres'

Tires are a consumable like oil and fuel. Its smart to spend more on them more often. Buy good oil , change it more frequently when you beat on the car. Have great brakes ? , same deal when you smash those negative g's to outbrake that porsche on the last corner. What about fuel? The more power you make the faster you suck down those gallons, race fuel /E85 all cost you more daily. Tyres same same.

The analogy might be how often you consume tyres (consider the soft compound vs relatively longer lasting hard compound)
Tyres one a year, slow car all year round
Tyres 4 times a year , fast car all year round.
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      01-20-2020, 07:26 AM   #27
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....also keep in mind that on a daily driver that gets driven in the rain, and colder temps......an R type tire might not be the best choice. I've driven on some ultra-performance tires in the winter before....felt like I was driving on hard hockey pucks... horrible.
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      01-20-2020, 08:07 AM   #28
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....also keep in mind that on a daily driver that gets driven in the rain, and colder temps......an R type tire might not be the best choice. I've driven on some ultra-performance tires in the winter before....felt like I was driving on hard hockey pucks... horrible.
That's why winter tires exist...
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      01-20-2020, 08:14 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Antetokounmpo View Post
That's why winter tires exist...
Yeah....that's why I have a 4wd truck 👍
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      01-21-2020, 04:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgop335 View Post
Yea those tires did nothing for me for the rear...
What's your setup?
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      01-21-2020, 05:02 PM   #31
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Not in particular order, but some affordable alternatives:

Federal 595RS-RR
Federal 595RS-PRO
Nankang NS2R
Nankang AR-1
Maxxis Victra VR1
Zestino Gredge
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      01-21-2020, 05:22 PM   #32
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Kenda kr20a seems in the list as above. Made in taiwan.
Mine is federa 595rs-r. Works well with no limited slip.
Those federal rs-pro look good

Quote:
Originally Posted by FCobra94 View Post
What's your setup?
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      01-21-2020, 06:52 PM   #33
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I would stay 200tw if you want it to hook on the street. Even the most friendly 200tw (rs4, z3) are gonna spin if they don't have a little heat worked into them. Generally speaking they will have better hydroplaning resistance.

I would not think you could get R888s, R1s or similar to hook on the street without some serious effort below 80 degrees, ask anyone who has autocrossed on them on a mild day, they do not work.

I drove a friend's 135i on r888rs around the paddock earlier this year and at 25 mph the road noise was ABSURD
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      01-22-2020, 06:58 AM   #34
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Well, my new Firehawk Indy 500's showed up...can't wait to get them on the car.

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      01-22-2020, 08:01 AM   #35
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I would stay 200tw if you want it to hook on the street. Even the most friendly 200tw (rs4, z3) are gonna spin if they don't have a little heat worked into them. Generally speaking they will have better hydroplaning resistance.

I would not think you could get R888s, R1s or similar to hook on the street without some serious effort below 80 degrees, ask anyone who has autocrossed on them on a mild day, they do not work.

I drove a friend's 135i on r888rs around the paddock earlier this year and at 25 mph the road noise was ABSURD
200tw have better hydroplane resistance versus R888s but not PS4s or FHI500.

A ton of the guys running mclarens and other high power RWD cars use R888R on the street for roll racing and they hook awesome, even without a burnout. But yes, road noise is absurd, to be expected though.
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      01-22-2020, 12:38 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Well, my new Firehawk Indy 500's showed up...can't wait to get them on the car.
please update.

I'm really between the 500's and the falken fk510s at this point for my summer tires.

I don't have michelin monies for tires that I know are gonna last 10K miles.

I know they're sold as bridgestones elsewhere.

I wish my friend worked in the road tire section of bridgestone and not the ag section. I don't need good deals on tractor tires.
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      01-22-2020, 12:47 PM   #37
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Quote:
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please update.

I'm really between the 500's and the falken fk510s at this point for my summer tires.

I don't have michelin monies for tires that I know are gonna last 10K miles.

I know they're sold as bridgestones elsewhere.

I wish my friend worked in the road tire section of bridgestone and not the ag section. I don't need good deals on tractor tires.
I should have them on the car today, but it's snowing and cold here....so it's going to be a while before I can get the car out on the road and put the new tires through their paces.

For the money, I think they will be hard to beat. The Michelin Pilot 4S tires would have been about $100 more for the pair......that's a big price savings.
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      01-22-2020, 03:23 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
I should have them on the car today, but it's snowing and cold here....so it's going to be a while before I can get the car out on the road and put the new tires through their paces.

For the money, I think they will be hard to beat. The Michelin Pilot 4S tires would have been about $100 more for the pair......that's a big price savings.
the falkens are even cheaper.

and by everyone's opinion I've read very good.

90% of the michelin at 50% of the cost.

the cost difference between the falkens and 500's at my sizes is about $100 for the whole set, so I'll do whichever is best.

PS4s would be 3 times the cost. Even conties would be double, and I was not impressed with my last set of DWs that I had. They got terrible loud halfway through the tread life, I pulled them off the car at 5/32 tread.
and nobody trying to burn up $250 a piece tires on a staggered setup.
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      01-22-2020, 03:47 PM   #39
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What are the Falkens you are talking about.
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      01-23-2020, 08:47 AM   #40
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Quote:
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What are the Falkens you are talking about.
FK510

there's a white e91 that just installed them arond here and he liked them. said they were quiet, which is what I'm looking for.

I'm more grand tourer than track car.

my car randomly does weekend thousand mile trips.
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      02-16-2020, 11:52 PM   #41
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Federal RS-R is awesome for the money - 140 Tread wear, about 130 bucks each online depending on sizing.

I ran these on my car for about a year, they lasted less than 3000 miles but the car dead hooked on the street.
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      02-17-2020, 03:23 AM   #42
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Fitted the kumho V70As medium compound to replace the Yokohama AD08Rs. These are called V700 in the US.

Outright grip is great. 2nd gear full power ,no dramas, corner grip and corner feel big improvements.
AD08s are a big step up from the likes of federals.
These are a big step up again from yokos.

Wear rating is 50 and you need to be mindful of heat cycles. So ideally for a weekend duties or stuck on a set of light weight rims for track days ,when you drive there.
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      02-22-2020, 07:32 PM   #43
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Well, I finally got a chance to test out the new 265 Firehawk Indy 500 tires I put on the back of my car. Since I had the time, I also installed the whiteline rear subframe bushings and M3 rear control arms. The cars hooks up much better now..... traction is still an issue in 1st and 2nd gear, but with the rearend being located much better and not walking around all over the place.....at least it goes straight now when it spins. I don't have that "waggle" feeling any more when I'm on the gas hard and hit bumps or change lanes....it feels much more planted.

I have a little more vibration I can feel coming from the back of the car at lower rpms......but it goes away as soon as I get the rpms up a little but. I'm assuming this is from the stiffer subframe bushings.

Overall the tires ride great, hold very well in the corners, and seem to hook great. For the price.....I'm very happy with them.
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      03-05-2020, 05:02 PM   #44
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Only a stage 2+ tune and the car still can't hook in 2nd? That's disappointing...
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