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loss of power - specific symptoms
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12-27-2019, 09:20 AM | #1 |
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loss of power - specific symptoms
so couple of days ago I lost power, and was curious whether someone can point me out, because what it does is following:
car can go into the speed but has difficulties to rev past 2000. it's like I had to floor it to go higher into 3500rpm for instance, where before I rarely floor it and it could speed quite easily. I thought it could be vacuum or air mass, but then thought it would rev with no boost, but my symptoms is difficulty to go into the revs basically. it's like I stomp the throttle pedal it somewhat revs into 2000, but then it does nothing, only when I floor it, then it slowly climbs to higher revs/speed....could it be something with fuel or injectors? |
12-28-2019, 06:39 AM | #3 |
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originally there wasn't an error code beside the fuel filter that was there long time before and that is due that some indy garage probably damaged my fuel heater when they were changing my fuel filter, and it was driving fine with it
yesterday I disconnected one vacuum hose on the front of the engine bloc left to the crankshaft pulley (it could be this part 11657802592 ), because it looked like the end was perished and thought that might be the cause, but after cutting the end of the hose and plugging it back there, the car was the same, and it didnt improve it. the code error showed after that replugged vacuum hose was 4530 that could be registered due to that repair I was doing, because it didn't show that error after I deleted the fault with INPA and drove it some more afterwards, and the car is still same and sluggish as I described yesterday today, I made a small smoke test with cigarette and rubber glove where I push the air through this pipe 13717796370 after removing air filter, and the smoke was coming from the bottom of that pipe, so there is a leak 1, however since I wasn't able to push smoke further, I will also smoke test through throttle valve on the other side, as I am not able to push the smoke with my lungs through the system obviously...but I am glad I found one small leak already. I am regretting I haven't done this sooner and also that nobody recommended to me with this kindergarten test being done so easily that took minutes. lastly. bmw diagnostics is poorly designed, they put some sensors in stupid positions where when the leak was behind it the sensor , it would never pick it up. (they probably didnt bother much with sensors to diagnose it properly, so services just replace the whole unit, if they are able find and localize it of course, or ppl just buy a new car being tired of this hassle) I am reading the internet and most of the power loss with 35d m57 engine won't show on diagnostics. so people have to dig and search replacing plethora of unnecessary things resulting in multiplying their expenses in the process with no help. so to summarize it, I am very unhappy with bmw diagnostic, where my simple primitive smoke test took second to uncover leak, even tho, I am certain there are more leaks/faulty things in the vacuum/boost/turbo/air system.... I just need to find openings where I can breath the smoke. 1.that mentioned pipe. 2.throttle valve 3.... 4.... Last edited by bmwdiesel; 12-28-2019 at 08:56 AM.. |
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12-28-2019, 06:55 AM | #4 |
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also, I need to remove this hose now 13717796370. I believe it has a different design for EU and US cars too tho. so the smoke seems to be getting underneath (the vacuum test smoke I did today)
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12-31-2019, 09:35 AM | #6 |
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the vac line on the front was split on the end, but it still could pull vacuum tho because it made no difference when reattached.
however, it seems like the rod for wastegate is not moving after I started car briefly and then switched off after minute, it seemed to be in the same spot...I plan to run DIS V57 diagnostic to run the specific test for it which moves it visible up and down but wasn't able.... also, seems like some vacuum hoses are slightly split on the ends. I didnt notice or cant say if the split is long enough to let vacuum out, but I can't say for sure. also, I dont have a t screw to unscrew the pressure converter plate, so have to figure it out. also there seems to be low charge air in the intake based on live diagnostics....requested is going up, but actual is not really catching up as desired.... |
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12-31-2019, 11:49 PM | #8 |
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Just redo all your lines. It’s a closed system, one leak elsewhere affects everything else. You keep finding split ends. That’s your tell tale sign. Just dont be pulling ion the vac lines and breaking plastic nipples. Cut them along the nipple. And peel the old line.
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01-01-2020, 06:37 AM | #9 |
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ok but I cant release the o2 sensor from bracket as I dont have matching tool. someone mentioned there are bolts but I have some other screws and cant find the match.
on the other hand, I was doing simple diagnostic where I released egr pressure converter from throttle valve and checked if there is vacuum, there was. then I recorded with mobile the rod for turbo wastegate actuator, and when started engine it retracted, but when switched off engine it released immegiately. i remember it hold vacuum for some 30 seconds in the past and I could hear a noise of it releasing, but now it released immediately after shutting the engine off....could it point me directly somewhere from this symptom? faulty pressure converter? (they changed them 2 years ago. or could it be hose? or vacuum pump? or badly connected hoses ? I saw there was a confusion in realoem and some other sites where they confused the diagram and people were connecting the hoses wrong way resulting in lack of boost too.....(not sure how that happened with that map diagram tbh that was circulating with wrong instructions) |
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01-01-2020, 07:49 AM | #10 | |
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01-01-2020, 04:47 PM | #12 |
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Pretty much any m57 that still has stock vacuum lines should be replaced with the lines Yozh found and metal fittings. The lines they used are terrible quality and dry rot, especially with all the heat in the engine bay and being right near the turbos.
Everyone please save yourself the time and redo do the whole system with quality lines. Use some high temp sleeving around the lines near the turbo. Route it neatly, make sure they don't rub on things, make sure you leave slack because they'll expand and contract when they heat up and cool down. Once you do that you'll only need to worry about the converters and euvs, which are fairly reliable. Like it's been said already these cars are finnicky. Do it right the first time and you'll save yourself a whole lot of headaches down the road.
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01-02-2020, 04:41 AM | #13 | |
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01-02-2020, 06:26 AM | #14 | |
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01-16-2020, 04:15 PM | #15 |
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It was so complicated for me to remove the bracket that I never managed to do it, but I was able to put in the vacuum hoses on the electric valve below the bracket with two fingers, and the same for turbo flap. This car is not issue to fix, the issue is to actually remove things and get in there, which is almost impossible, plus, my car was the first car with this engine and all was updated a year after. my car is a disaster in every aspect. every part that I order was updated too. the whole bracket, pressure converters, all were updated in 2008 and later, so my car is mixing 2 different designs of parts where they obstruct each other at times, such as bolts below this bracket that I can't reach. I wish I have money and health which I both lost and I would literally throw this car in the ditch with an axe in the boot or I would find some concrete block and put a wood on the throttle and would let crash it full speed so it's basically shattered and would make a youtube video of that.
Last edited by bmwdiesel; 01-16-2020 at 04:35 PM.. |
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01-16-2020, 04:43 PM | #16 | |
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These cars do really suck to work on especially with how close everything is to each other. My advice to you is walk away, get your mind off it then go back to it. There's always a way, and some ways take special tools.
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