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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > 2021 Upgraded turbos



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      01-19-2022, 07:33 PM   #89
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That's crazy. Makes me wonder how much I'm making on the RB Game Finishers sitting around 28-29 psi.
Probably a lot.....👍

Rob said the RB TWO's on E40 fuel at 27psi should be making a solid 575hp at the tires
...
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      01-20-2022, 03:25 AM   #90
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Mike_o.....start from the beginning. Do you have any paperwork showing what the show was going to actually do to your car? With that kind of money involved, hopefully you have some documentation.

By the way they handled everything, it sounds like it's a small little hole in the wall shop. How much have you/did you already pay them?

For future reference, it's always a good idea to do lots of research before you take your car to a random shop.... especially on a big project like that.

If you don't have any work orders, job tickets, or other paperwork showing what you paid for....and what they actually did ....it's going to be really hard to prove anything in court.

I'd say that at this point, you either need to find a shop that specializes in BMW's......or start reading and researching about N54's and 335i's online so that you can address/fix the problems yourself.
Thanks, yes, I have documentation (most coms over email) and to some extend the shop have behaved professionally and responsive, but they (claim to) have been hit with Covid and other health issues. I also got quotes on the job from multiple shops also local ones.

The shop is not small, it's situatuated in a modern building and looks fairly clean. They have pretty good google reviews ( I don't rely on Trustpilot) and thety are listed on MHD's homepage as a "Partner", which why I chose them. I wrote MHD about the issue, and they replied that the only implication of the Partner concept is that the shop is capable of unlocking DMEs.

Another issue was that when working on the engine, it turned out to have a semi-bad oil leak, which required extra work (engine out), and later that also the not previously upgraded injectors were replaced with index 12.
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      01-20-2022, 05:52 AM   #91
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Maybe it's just me...but everything seems to scream "we will make things as difficult as possible in order to get the most money we can from you".

They pulled the entire motor out to fix an oil leak?? A leak that looks like it's coming from the oil filter housing? Something that can be fixed in an hour or two without having to pull the motor?? Wow...
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      01-20-2022, 04:45 PM   #92
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If they actually pulled the motor for that oil leak they are 100% scamming you. I would start trying to get your money back asap.
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      01-22-2022, 10:53 AM   #93
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I also had the flywheel replaced. Wouldn't that require the engine to come out/down?

Fitting new turbos, flywheel and fixing the oil leaks would at least be easier with the engine out, I guess.
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      01-22-2022, 11:36 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by mike_o View Post
I also had the flywheel replaced. Wouldn't that require the engine to come out/down?

Fitting new turbos, flywheel and fixing the oil leaks would at least be easier with the engine out, I guess.
Sounds expensive!
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      01-22-2022, 12:58 PM   #95
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Sounds expensive!
It has become very expensive.

The M4 flywheel off ebay was only $250 and they quoted/charged me $700 for fitting it, which doesn't seem out of line with the EU price level.
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      01-22-2022, 01:42 PM   #96
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It has become very expensive.

The M4 flywheel off ebay was only $250 and they quoted/charged me $700 for fitting it, which doesn't seem out of line with the EU price level.
Hey Mike, you're getting fucked mate. If you're still wondering whether or not don't, sorry but they have been fucking you either knowingly or out of ignorance imo.
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      01-24-2022, 08:59 AM   #97
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I also had the flywheel replaced. Wouldn't that require the engine to come out/down?

Fitting new turbos, flywheel and fixing the oil leaks would at least be easier with the engine out, I guess.
No, the motor doesn't need to come out to replace the flywheel. You pull the transmission off and leave the motor in place.

If you don't mind me asking......how much money have you already paid the shop? And what are they telling you regarding all the issues you are still having with the car. Have you asked for a chunk of your money back??

The whole thing just sounds like you are getting screwed.
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      01-26-2022, 08:20 PM   #98
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I also had the flywheel replaced. Wouldn't that require the engine to come out/down?

Fitting new turbos, flywheel and fixing the oil leaks would at least be easier with the engine out, I guess.
I would have removed the engine too. Regardless of what people will write you on here that’s the best and easiest approach. As a mechanic that’s what I will tell you. For starters I value my body. I need to do the same for another customer, and for another customer, for years to come. So yeah, DIYers and also people that never had a wrench in their hand will claim oh yes! not needed, I can do it without, but actually they haven’t and they won’t. They will drop it off in a shop just like you did. The other issues are completely separate. Regarding waiting time? People being sick. No parts available. Is the reality now. I have a friend whos truck is down since October. No new ecu available. I started remodeling my house in November. Contractors started getting sick and didn’t work for over a month. So is all justifiable to some degree, staring with the engine out! There is TUV in Germany so I’m assuming they can do a good job. I wish you best of luck moving forward.
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      01-26-2022, 09:41 PM   #99
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I would have removed the engine too. Regardless of what people will write you on here that’s the best and easiest approach. As a mechanic that’s what I will tell you. For starters I value my body. I need to do the same for another customer, and for another customer, for years to come. So yeah, DIYers and also people that never had a wrench in their hand will claim oh yes! not needed, I can do it without, but actually they haven’t and they won’t. They will drop it off in a shop just like you did. The other issues are completely separate. Regarding waiting time? People being sick. No parts available. Is the reality now. I have a friend whos truck is down since October. No new ecu available. I started remodeling my house in November. Contractors started getting sick and didn’t work for over a month. So is all justifiable to some degree, staring with the engine out! There is TUV in Germany so I’m assuming they can do a good job. I wish you best of luck moving forward.
How long do you think it would reasonably take to pull the motor with all of the harnesses/AC lines/other lines attached? I did my 550i clutch/flywheel on stands (fun fact, the old pressure plate was somehow a used 320d pressure plate and 340i clutch? sketchy history with this car), it was definitely not fun, but the only difficult part I recall was lining the input shaft up with the flywheel. Granted I had a jack to help which made it doable, but even so I think with a proper tall transmission jack and a lift it would be no more than 4 or 5 hours, right?
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      01-26-2022, 11:22 PM   #100
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How long do you think it would reasonably take to pull the motor with all of the harnesses/AC lines/other lines attached? I did my 550i clutch/flywheel on stands (fun fact, the old pressure plate was somehow a used 320d pressure plate and 340i clutch? sketchy history with this car), it was definitely not fun, but the only difficult part I recall was lining the input shaft up with the flywheel. Granted I had a jack to help which made it doable, but even so I think with a proper tall transmission jack and a lift it would be no more than 4 or 5 hours, right?
If the car is on a lift for a technician familiar with the car it will take about two hours to get the engine out. That’s including vacuuming the AC system. I drop it with the subframe and transmission stil attached. It’s lot easier. Like I said technicians are doing this day in and out. What if somethings wrong goes? I had a bell housing bolt brake off on the right side above the down pipes. On a lift. It took me exactly 12 hours for that clutch job. Now imagine doing this on the ground. How many cry for help threads we have here about broken manifold stud? Or can’t install the down pipe clamp or align them? Like I said people are boisterous with the suggestions but haven’t don’t the job and what even what surprises me more, they can’t recognize why shop approach will be different. About your clutch, a lot of parts are interchangeable. I think all non turbo e9x clutch and pressure plate fit on all 4 cyl F3x. I can’t see what engine you have but that 320d pressure plate might have been an upgrade.
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      01-27-2022, 12:24 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by feuer View Post
If the car is on a lift for a technician familiar with the car it will take about two hours to get the engine out. That’s including vacuuming the AC system. I drop it with the subframe and transmission stil attached. It’s lot easier. Like I said technicians are doing this day in and out. What if somethings wrong goes? I had a bell housing bolt brake off on the right side above the down pipes. On a lift. It took me exactly 12 hours for that clutch job. Now imagine doing this on the ground. How many cry for help threads we have here about broken manifold stud? Or can’t install the down pipe clamp or align them? Like I said people are boisterous with the suggestions but haven’t don’t the job and what even what surprises me more, they can’t recognize why shop approach will be different. About your clutch, a lot of parts are interchangeable. I think all non turbo e9x clutch and pressure plate fit on all 4 cyl F3x. I can’t see what engine you have but that 320d pressure plate might have been an upgrade.
2 hours probably makes it worth it, that's crazy fast. The bell housing bolt breaking is crazy, was it over-torqued past yield? My car's an N54 car, which obviously shares the transmission with a 320d, but looking up the part number, the pressure plate is different than the N54 one (and shows only for the 118d/120d/320d and some other 4cyl diesel cars on some Italian and French websites), and the clutch was a part from 2016 for a 340i/440i. The clutch was slipping but looked pretty good, I think the pressure plate was used and worn.
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      01-27-2022, 09:48 AM   #102
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Their aluminum not meant to be reused. I've reused them no issues aswell as a lot of others. Their pretty easy to snap I snapped one while torquing it down. Old torque wrench, got paranoid about it and got a new one right after
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      01-27-2022, 11:13 AM   #103
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Their aluminum not meant to be reused. I've reused them no issues aswell as a lot of others. Their pretty easy to snap I snapped one while torquing it down. Old torque wrench, got paranoid about it and got a new one right after
Right, but for like $15 on top of a $300-2000 clutch job it's almost foolish to reuse load-bearing TTY bolts like that. Same thing happened to me with an intake manifold stud, whatever tiny torque number never clicked on my stubby tq wrench and it twisted right off, cracking the manifold in the process. Needless to say I immediately got a new tq wrench and only gütentight the manifold these days
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      01-27-2022, 02:09 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by Mustafa.e92 View Post
Their aluminum not meant to be reused. I've reused them no issues aswell as a lot of others. Their pretty easy to snap I snapped one while torquing it down. Old torque wrench, got paranoid about it and got a new one right after
Right, but for like $15 on top of a $300-2000 clutch job it's almost foolish to reuse load-bearing TTY bolts like that. Same thing happened to me with an intake manifold stud, whatever tiny torque number never clicked on my stubby tq wrench and it twisted right off, cracking the manifold in the process. Needless to say I immediately got a new tq wrench and only gütentight the manifold these days
Funny thing is that it was a new bolt and first time I actually torqued the bolts instead of taking the impact to it. Never had an issue with manifold studs/bolts I've taken a lot of them off and on always used my Milwaukee 3/8 mini impact never had one snap
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      01-27-2022, 03:42 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by iqraceworks View Post
No, the motor doesn't need to come out to replace the flywheel. You pull the transmission off and leave the motor in place.

If you don't mind me asking......how much money have you already paid the shop? And what are they telling you regarding all the issues you are still having with the car. Have you asked for a chunk of your money back??

The whole thing just sounds like you are getting screwed.
Sadly I've paid around 6500EUR (excluding the Pure turbos), and I have asked to have around 2500 back. They have to some degree recognized that they've billed me for work that isn't finished (re-mapping), shouldn't have been done (pulling the turbos out because they didn't adjust wastegates before fitting), and handing the car over with issues that wasn't there when they got it (Error codes, fuel leak).

The first bill was 3400EUR, and I only paid the second bill because it seemed the only way of getting car back.
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      01-27-2022, 04:50 PM   #106
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What feuer said makes it seem reasonable to drop the engine. I would be curious as to how long it took them though. If feuer is correct and this shop can drop the engine in two hours (which is certainly possible) then I see no problem as long as they aren't quoting you book time for dropping the engine…still though, seems far too expensive.
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      01-27-2022, 06:13 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by Mustafa.e92 View Post
Funny thing is that it was a new bolt and first time I actually torqued the bolts instead of taking the impact to it. Never had an issue with manifold studs/bolts I've taken a lot of them off and on always used my Milwaukee 3/8 mini impact never had one snap
Weird, those bell housing bolts are huge (most of them anyways) so I'm impressed that they broke. Consider yourself lucky with manifold studs, I had a similar experience removing an exhaust stud, the head just twisted off because it was so soft and stuck. Luckily a hardware store in town had two M7 nuts so I was able to jam nut it out.
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      01-27-2022, 06:21 PM   #108
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustafa.e92 View Post
Funny thing is that it was a new bolt and first time I actually torqued the bolts instead of taking the impact to it. Never had an issue with manifold studs/bolts I've taken a lot of them off and on always used my Milwaukee 3/8 mini impact never had one snap
Weird, those bell housing bolts are huge (most of them anyways) so I'm impressed that they broke. Consider yourself lucky with manifold studs, I had a similar experience removing an exhaust stud, the head just twisted off because it was so soft and stuck. Luckily a hardware store in town had two M7 nuts so I was able to jam nut it out.
They are big but their very soft and light. Weighs less than a steel bolt 1/3 of its size. I've had same experience with exhaust studs especially in Canada lots of salt and rust
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      02-05-2022, 08:30 PM   #109
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Would anyone be interested to purchase my RB Game Finisher turbos? It will come with the RB Game Finisher silicone outlets, ARM relocated inlets, Game Finisher heat shield, and the boost solenoid bracket. They have about 6,000 miles with zero issues. The car pulls like a rocket. This is just a random thought I'm not 100% on it yet. Figured someone can scoop these up at a discounted rate rather than waiting weeks to months for him to build one out.
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      02-10-2022, 04:03 PM   #110
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Would anyone be interested to purchase my RB Game Finisher turbos? It will come with the RB Game Finisher silicone outlets, ARM relocated inlets, Game Finisher heat shield, and the boost solenoid bracket. They have about 6,000 miles with zero issues. The car pulls like a rocket. This is just a random thought I'm not 100% on it yet. Figured someone can scoop these up at a discounted rate rather than waiting weeks to months for him to build one out.
How much? Mostly just curious…
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