[Insane435]

Can anyone share there EQ settings on an e90 with I drive with a sub in the boot? I want the underseat woofers to play midbass only. Im assuming to turn the bass down on the EQ but what about some of the frequencies?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Can anyone share there EQ settings on an e90 with I drive with a sub in the boot? I want the underseat woofers to play midbass only. Im assuming to turn the bass down on the EQ but what about some of the frequencies?

You need mid-base subs under the seats that play 40 - 500 Hz, but set the cross over at 80 or 90 so it doesn't play anything lower than 80 or 90 Hz. I would insulate and plug the port in the sub box under the seat so it's a sealed box. Use the insulation to do this.

The stock under the seat subs will not play frequencies above 80 Hz very well.

You would then need a separate sub in the trunk set to play 20 - 80-90hz

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You need mid-base subs under the seats that play 40 - 500 Hz, but set the cross over at 80 or 90 so it doesn't play anything lower than 80 or 90 Hz. I would insulate and plug the port in the sub box under the seat so it's a sealed box. Use the insulation to do this.

The stock under the seat subs will not play frequencies above 80 Hz very well.

You would then need a separate sub in the trunk set to play 20 - 80-90hz

Im asking what I need to do with the L7 eq once I have a subwoofer in the trunk to take care of the lows?

Ideally id like to change the underseats as well but Im doing this one step at a time.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Im asking what I need to do with the L7 eq once I have a subwoofer in the trunk to take care of the lows?

Ideally id like to change the underseats as well but Im doing this one step at a time.

I'm not sure because the subs underneath the seats only play lows.

You got a technique harness and an amp for the sub?

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I'm not sure because the subs underneath the seats only play lows.

You got a technique harness and an amp for the sub?

Ah gotcha.

Yes I have the technic harness and a rockford pbr 500x1.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Ah gotcha.

Yes I have the technic harness and a rockford pbr 500x1.

Ugh… do you plan on upgrading the underneath the seat subs? I'd send the amp back & get a 4 + 1.

You can use all 4 or just two of the 4 to run the underneath the seat subs once you get them. The +1 is used for the subwoofer in the trunk.

Just make sure the RMS @ 2 or 4ohm matches your sub's RMS " ". I'd suggest the:

1) JL Audio XD700/5v2
2) Alpine X-A90V
3) JBL Stadium 5
4) Pioneer GM-DX975
5) Kenwood Excelon XR901-5

[Insane435]

I thought about going that route. If i replaced the underseats i would run the sws. I could also just buy a 2 channel rockford pbr to run those as well correct? These rockford amps are very small and can be hidden anywhere.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Insane435

I thought about going that route. If i replaced the underseats i would run the sws. I could also just buy a 2 channel rockford pbr to run those as well correct? These rockford amps are very small and can be hidden anywhere.

The SWS will not play 80-90 - 500hz; they are basically an upgraded version of what you have now.

I suggested the 4+1 because it gives you the flexibility to run 2 of its channels to run the under the seat subs or you can increase the power by running all 4 channels to the underneath the seat subs via (bridged) if you think you need more power due to the RMS of the new speakers being 150w RMS for example.

As far as making sure it's a slim amp., the JL Audio XD700/5v2 dimensions are 10-1/4"W x 2"H x 7-1/8"D. That's pretty small.. the width is smaller than a typical ruler 😉 it will fit under the trunk, floor panel easily.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA....html?tp=68848

You need an 8" sub that has a mounting depth of 2 5/8" mounting depth and can play 80-90 to 500hz

The above will do that..

[Insane435]

@mweisdorfer

I had a few more questions related to your PM explanation of installing the MS-8 or a dsp:

yes this is very helpful and makes sense.

1) Do I need to code the car to HIFI for this work with the technic harness?
2) Where do you put the 4 pins on the RCA wires that go to the headunit?
3) I have the Idrive screen in my car, does this make any difference on install?
4) What are those 2 other pieces that come with the technic harness? One looks like its just a loop.

[ctuna]

If you have Logic 7 you need to either code to Hi Fi or
use a Most Bus Fiberoptic to Analog Converter.

The Mobridge Amp/DSP is suppose to be a drop in as it
understands and uses the Fiberoptic output of a Logic 7
programmed Head Unit.
This one is setup for the Logic 7 Harness that comes with
the car I believe.

Mobridge made the original Most to analog preamp since then
there are cheaper ones made by such companys as Avin and
Dynavin and others.

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by ctuna

If you have Logic 7 you need to either code to Hi Fi or
use a Most Bus Fiberoptic to Analog Converter.

The Mobridge Amp/DSP is suppose to be a drop in as it
understands and uses the Fiberoptic output of a Logic 7
programmed Head Unit.
This one is setup for the Logic 7 Harness that comes with
the car I believe.

Mobridge made the original Most to analog preamp since then
there are cheaper ones made by such companys as Avin and
Dynavin and others.

What would be the advantage to keep the MOST connection and use a mobridge as opposed to coding out the L7 & using the technic harness?

[ctuna]

Using which mobridge the pre amp or the complete amp/dsp?
The amp/DSP avoids a lot of issues with interfacing and lets
you keep the Logic 7 setting's I believe , including the equalizer
in the Head Unit though the DSP should out weight that function
but a lot.

No Harness to deal with .
You should talk with mobridge or unexpected creations which reps them .
But none of this has anything to do with the original topic of this thread.
If you look at the specs of the mobridge amp dsp they are quite good but
there isn't a lot of feedback or reviews on this so far.

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Using which mobridge the pre amp or the complete amp/dsp?
The amp/DSP avoids a lot of issues with interfacing and lets
you keep the Logic 7 setting's I believe , including the equalizer
in the Head Unit though the DSP should out weight that function
but a lot.

No Harness to deal with .
You should talk with mobridge or unexpected creations which reps them .
But none of this has anything to do with the original topic of this thread.
If you look at the specs of the mobridge amp dsp they are quite good but
there isn't a lot of feedback or reviews on this so far.

Im not opposed to going either way. What I do know is what my goals are now.

1) Add a sub in the trunk

2) replace underseat woofers to something that can play midbass making the system a true 4 way unless the stock speakers can be EQ'd to do this. Im also willing to change these to the individual audio versions.

3) Replace all door and shelf speakers. The individual audio speakers might be the best bet for me. These will fit right in without modification and they can be had for a good price on ebay.

The last piece of the puzzle is what amps do I run to accomplish this and do I run a DSP and code HIFI out or a Mobride configuration.

[ctuna]

If you go to better speakers you will logically want better power to run those.

People use to add two channel amp to run underseats and an sub with sub
amp if they were bass heads tapping off the speaker outs as Inputs for those.

If you are adding a better speakers all around you want power for those speakers
to get the most out of them.

If you want real control of the soundstage and eq a DSP must be added somewhere.
If you buy a DSP you should study what it takes to tune it.

The money factor is 1k and up for any of this stuff unless you are master dumpster diver.
(and that is just for equipment)

https://unexpectedcreations.com/

You should talk to 6 speed coupe at Unexpected Creations.
Ask For Don 6sp coupe is his handle for this forum.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Im not opposed to going either way. What I do know is what my goals are now.

1) Add a sub in the trunk

2) replace underseat woofers to something that can play midbass making the system a true 4 way unless the stock speakers can be EQ'd to do this. Im also willing to change these to the individual audio versions.

3) Replace all door and shelf speakers. The individual audio speakers might be the best bet for me. These will fit right in without modification and they can be had for a good price on ebay.

The last piece of the puzzle is what amps do I run to accomplish this and do I run a DSP and code HIFI out or a Mobride configuration.

Im not opposed to going either way. What I do know is what my goals are now.

1) Add a sub in the trunk

You will need a corner mounted, custom made encasement, which is made out of fiberglass.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E90-3-S...-127635-2958-0

I have this one. It will take about 4-5 weeks to get it. You just need to tell them the exact sub you have & they will Taylor the box to your sub.

2) replace underseat woofers to something that can play midbass making the system a true 4 way unless the stock speakers can be EQ'd to do this. Im also willing to change these to the individual audio versions.

Get the pioneer mid-base subs & run them 80-90 to 500hz

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA...D2.html?tp=111

3) Replace all door and shelf speakers. The individual audio speakers might be the best bet for me. These will fit right in without modification and they can be had for a good price on ebay.

GREAT CHOICE -

I have all the part numbers if you want to double check.

The last piece of the puzzle is what amps do I run to accomplish this and do I run a DSP and code HIFI out or a Mobride configuration.

Get a DSP & two separate amps through it.

JBL -

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109DSP....html?tp=61658

Amps -

JL Audio 4 + 1

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136986...v2.html?tp=115

NOTE: the plus 1 has an RMS of 300w @ 4ohm
This is what you are looking for in a Sub. You really don't need that much more bass given where you are mounting it & how small our cars are. A good 10" sub will absolutely, positively be enough. I have one & I only have it turned up about 1/2 way! 😉

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610W...-4.html?tp=111

JL Audio 6 channel

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136986...v2.html?tp=115

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Insane435

@mweisdorfer

I had a few more questions related to your PM explanation of installing the MS-8 or a dsp:

yes this is very helpful and makes sense.

1) Do I need to code the car to HIFI for this work with the technic harness?
2) Where do you put the 4 pins on the RCA wires that go to the headunit?
3) I have the Idrive screen in my car, does this make any difference on install?
4) What are those 2 other pieces that come with the technic harness? One looks like its just a loop.

1) Do I need to code the car to HIFI for this work with the technic harness?

Not sure… since I replaced my head unit. I don't have iDrive.

2) Where do you put the 4 pins on the RCA wires that go to the headunit?

The RCA cable would go from the head unit to the input channel 1 of the DSP.

3) I have the Idrive screen in my car, does this make any difference on install?

Not sure… I haven't done this on iDrive. There are upgraded versions of iDrive via android

The newest version is 10.0 and they make one for CIC and or CCC. CCC is the oldest version for cars that are pre-lci 07-08.


4) What are those 2 other pieces that come with the technic harness? One looks like its just a loop.

The loop is a MOST loop bypass. You put that where the old amp hooked up to so the car still thinks the amp is there and doesn't freak out.

[Insane435]

Here's where I'm at right now.

I have the tehcnic PNP add a sub, a 12" ID D2, and the passenger corner load enclosure from Visual Ice on order. I was going to run this on the 500x1 rockford to start. After reading more and getting the audio bug I may go all in.

So basically I need to get a 6 channel, & a 5 channel (4+1) or just a 2 or 4 channel to run the underseats assuming I keep my mono amp. Plus my sub is a D2 so I need to wire to 1 ohm to get power unless I sold it for a D4 and wired it 2.

I kind of want more power on the sub as I was used to the loud bass back in the day. I had 8 AQ10s walled at one point LOL. It did 152 sealed which wasn't too bad.

Anyways, I need to figure out how to work around the MOST on the L7. In the meantime, would it be a waste to change the speakers to the individuals? I assume they would work fine on the L7 amp?

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Here's where I'm at right now.

I have the tehcnic PNP add a sub, a 12" ID D2, and the passenger corner load enclosure from Visual Ice on order. I was going to run this on the 500x1 rockford to start. After reading more and getting the audio bug I may go all in.

So basically I need to get a 6 channel, & a 5 channel (4+1) or just a 2 or 4 channel to run the underseats assuming I keep my mono amp. Plus my sub is a D2 so I need to wire to 1 ohm to get power unless I sold it for a D4 and wired it 2.

I kind of want more power on the sub as I was used to the loud bass back in the day. I had 8 AQ10s walled at one point LOL. It did 152 sealed which wasn't too bad.

Anyways, I need to figure out how to work around the MOST on the L7. In the meantime, would it be a waste to change the speakers to the individuals? I assume they would work fine on the L7 amp?

Here's my recommendations:

1. Do the "add a tweeter to center channel" mod. It'll give you more clarity and better sound stage.

2. If you want to keep you sub amp, get a 2-channel amp with 50-100 watt per channel for the underseats. High-pass the signal at the amp at 60-80 Hz - this protects the woofers and allows you to play only mid-bass at decent volume levels. The L7 woofers sound quite good that way. Try it before spending $$$ on replacement woofers.

3. Play your sub up to the same frequency as your HP on the other amp.

4. Enjoy

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

Here's my recommendations:

1. Do the "add a tweeter to center channel" mod. It'll give you more clarity and better sound stage.

2. If you want to keep you sub amp, get a 2-channel amp with 50-100 watt per channel for the underseats. High-pass the signal at the amp at 60-80 Hz - this protects the woofers and allows you to play only mid-bass at decent volume levels. The L7 woofers sound quite good that way. Try it before spending $$$ on replacement woofers.

3. Play your sub up to the same frequency as your HP on the other amp.

4. Enjoy

How would I add a second amp with the technic harness? I am not sure exactly how it works to be honest. Do I have to plug in the separate 4 pin plug? Do both my mono & 2 channel need to be split off the RCA from the LOC?

Should I do the add a tweeter or just replace the center channel with the individual Coax?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Insane435

How would I add a second amp with the technic harness? I am not sure exactly how it works to be honest. Do I have to plug in the separate 4 pin plug? Do both my mono & 2 channel need to be split off the RCA from the LOC?

Should I do the add a tweeter or just replace the center channel with the individual Coax?

Are you running a DSP?

The BMW individual audio center channel is a better option, but it will require 75w rms to really take advantage of it.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Insane435

Can anyone share there EQ settings on an e90 with I drive with a sub in the boot? I want the underseat woofers to play midbass only. Im assuming to turn the bass down on the EQ but what about some of the frequencies?

What year is your car?

[Insane435]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

What year is your car?

no DSP at the moment.

Its a 2011 with HK.