[John Reba]

[ursu1987]

First one
Sachs and Eibach kit.

[ursu1987]

Second one - soon better pictures!
A little lower from springs!

[MPOWER5266]

Untitled by Nick Wood, on Flickr

[nsjames]

out on the back forty dropping off wood.

[4 Doors]

Originally Posted by nsjames

out on the back forty dropping off wood.

I love this use of the utility wagon!

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by nsjames

out on the back forty dropping off wood.

Get er done!

Getting ready to tow the steed home after "winning" a track day @ Barber Motorsports Park:

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by 4 Doors

I love this use of the utility wagon!

then may I present the previous days brush hauling?

[xlr88r]

My old E90 and new E91.

If anyone's exceptionally bored I've started a build thread for the E91 here. You also get a sneak peek of perhaps the worst tattoo ever seen: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1865307

[mrgino]

My first BMW

E91 lci chipped to 185hp

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by nsjames

then may I present the previous days brush hauling?

Is that your trailer lights harness coming out of the hatch? What controller are you using? My invisihitch is awesome save for the wiring. Its got the 4 pin mount on it so that is convenient but the controls are basically relays you tap into the stock wiring for and the running lights one DOES NOT LIKE the fact the voltage ramps up and down, it buzzes horribly when the lights are turning on and off. It was so bad I installed a switch below the trunk floor to control the parking lights portion (brakes and turns work fine, its just those running/parking lights).

Id love to find a better way of controlling the trailer lights.

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by xlr88r

Always been a fan of that blue. I only have bronze because, well, it was available CPO.

[xlr88r]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

Always been a fan of that blue. I only have bronze because, well, it was available CPO.

Cheers! I'm pleased with it. Makes a difference to the usual monochrome motoring landscape here in the UK.

Yours is a great colour I don't think I've seen the bronze in real life sadly, as it's that rare. Enjoy!

[ThreeThirtyFiveXI]

Originally Posted by GA328iT

Got my 6MT swap back and I love it!

Initially we left in the 3.73 auto rear diff, but I really didn't like it. It felt like I had to wind the engine out spinning through 1, 2 and 3 to get to 4 as a cruising gear. It felt like I was racer boy trying to take every off the line every time I started. I hated it. So we swapped in the manual 3.23 diff and man! It feels like what everyone says about these N52 manuals. SO SMOOTH. With the 3 SIM, headers and tune, it's plenty powerful to be fun and is awesome.

One funny annoyance is getting used to the iDrive button. I keep resting my arm on the button and changing my song or whatever! (Before getting this car, I was in the single-hump camp, but after having, I really do like it. The hard drive holds thousands of songs, and my phone connects perfectly as well for bluetooth phone calls or with the BMW cable, I can access songs on my phone.)

I know Alpine White isn't as fancy or desirable as LaMans Blue or Blue Water, and I know some folks outright don't like beige leather. BUT, this color combo happens to be my #1 first choice. And FWIW, according to SickFinga there are 8 Alpine White over beige manuals in the US, but zero M Sport – making mine 1:1! So I got that going for me. Which is nice.

Also, for reference, here's the $8 Chinese perforated M Sport shift knob. At less than the TAX on the OEM shift knob, it's worth a shot. It's a knob. It shifts. The plastic cap on the top is a bit recessed. It feels a little weird, but not sure if it screams cheap. For being so cheap, it looks and feels pretty good.

how much did the shop charge you? do you know how many hours ?

[Timothi2]

Here's a few updated pics of mine! Alpine White with Saddle Brown interior

[Serf27]

^looking good! Sweet angel eyes.

[INTMD8]

Wheels and tire size copied from tetsuo. ARC8 and 255/40/17.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

Is that your trailer lights harness coming out of the hatch? What controller are you using? My invisihitch is awesome save for the wiring. Its got the 4 pin mount on it so that is convenient but the controls are basically relays you tap into the stock wiring for and the running lights one DOES NOT LIKE the fact the voltage ramps up and down, it buzzes horribly when the lights are turning on and off. It was so bad I installed a switch below the trunk floor to control the parking lights portion (brakes and turns work fine, its just those running/parking lights).

Id love to find a better way of controlling the trailer lights.

yes
It's a tekonsha HD modulite unit mounted behind he amp bracket and powered using the cargo power point. Which is nice because it turns off when the car is parked and you avoid the parasitic draw. It's also a fused circuit already, so I didn't use the fuse holder. It makes for a tidy install.
I couldn't bear t taps visible everytime I opened the compartment, so hard spliced in at a wire clamp.
Only wire I had to run across the car was right turn signal, and I just hid it under the tailgate sill plastic piece. If you pp out the latch surround you don't even have to pull the plastics.
Works, doesn't freak out the car, trailer lights get 14V. It's completely solid state and potted, it makes no noise.
when not in use the trailer wiring fits nicely in the compartment in that open slit between the tail light and the plastic tray. I just open the door, grab the wire and then close the door and run it under the cargo mat to the center of the rear hatch.
kit was very high quality, i've never had a bad experience with a tekonsha product. My old yoyager brake controller (RIP) lasted nearly 25 years and was in like 4 different trucks. Got replaced with a P3.

edit:
I like having the cable inside when not in use as it keeps the connector pristine. one less thing to cause the inevitable trailer light problem.
here's the kit i ordered. You'll end up with a bunch of leftover real nice 10ga autmotive wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-1191...ps%2C92&sr=8-2

If you're planning on cut/splice/power point install I would save the money and just buy the bare unit. You're not going to use most of it anyway. You'll need like 2 feet of wire for the positive wire. Everything else reaches using the box's pigtail. I see no reason you couldn't just butt splice this right into your existing install and avoid it all. The regulr modulite HD would work and is half the price, but the plus unit has integrated circuit breakers and the like. I wanted maximum protection for the car.

[Igor_M5]

Damn, missing her already

[ryan stewart]

Originally Posted by nsjames

yes
It's a tekonsha HD modulite unit mounted behind he amp bracket and powered using the cargo power point. Which is nice because it turns off when the car is parked and you avoid the parasitic draw. It's also a fused circuit already, so I didn't use the fuse holder. It makes for a tidy install.
I couldn't bear t taps visible everytime I opened the compartment, so hard spliced in at a wire clamp.
Only wire I had to run across the car was right turn signal, and I just hid it under the tailgate sill plastic piece. If you pp out the latch surround you don't even have to pull the plastics.
Works, doesn't freak out the car, trailer lights get 14V. It's completely solid state and potted, it makes no noise.
when not in use the trailer wiring fits nicely in the compartment in that open slit between the tail light and the plastic tray. I just open the door, grab the wire and then close the door and run it under the cargo mat to the center of the rear hatch.
kit was very high quality, i've never had a bad experience with a tekonsha product. My old yoyager brake controller (RIP) lasted nearly 25 years and was in like 4 different trucks. Got replaced with a P3.

edit:
I like having the cable inside when not in use as it keeps the connector pristine. one less thing to cause the inevitable trailer light problem.
here's the kit i ordered. You'll end up with a bunch of leftover real nice 10ga autmotive wire.
https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-1191...ps%2C92&sr=8-2

If you're planning on cut/splice/power point install I would save the money and just buy the bare unit. You're not going to use most of it anyway. You'll need like 2 feet of wire for the positive wire. Everything else reaches using the box's pigtail. I see no reason you couldn't just butt splice this right into your existing install and avoid it all. The regulr modulite HD would work and is half the price, but the plus unit has integrated circuit breakers and the like. I wanted maximum protection for the car.

Thanks thats cheap enough Ill give it a shot. Ill probably just get the bare unit and solder it into the wiring I already have in place for my current setup. Ill probably just do the same for the 4-pin plug too because my invisihitch has a mount for the plug.

FYI to keep the pins clean what I did was buy a cheap trailer side plug and just cut off the wiring and glue over the back. Then I just put it in place when I'm not towing so the plug is covered.

[shannon1]

Originally Posted by Igor_M5

Damn, missing her already

Love those seats

[Free_Sask]

I'll soon be joining the club! RWD 325i Touring, 70k kms / 44k miles

Almost got the exact spec I wanted:
- Black
- M Sport Package
- Alcantara Interior
- Sunroof

Do I rebuild the BBS RS-GT's, sell them, or use them as winters? I want something more aggressive for summer... lots of good wheel ideas in this thread