[BobLeeSwagger]

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...am-not-working


This is not my car tho

[dreamliner12]

Did anybody get to the bottom of this? I'm having the exact same issue with my 2007 335xi. There is no bad light bulb light on the dash, my high beams just won't stay on for more than a second or two. The lows work correctly.

[Motorsport.Nick]

Bump-

I've been having the same issue. I believe there might be a correlation between hitting bumps and it engaging/disengaging the high beam. I don't use my high beams very much, but Id like to figure this out!

[Dtype]

I have the same issue since ever on
My 07 e91. On my case it seem to be worst with the cold weather like the OP problem. I already change my light module (frm) from frm1 to frm3 (for other reason) and this problem almost had gone, but sometimes I get the flickering or in worst case, my High beams turning off. I will change my headlights from pre-lci to lci (both xenons) and will check it if the problem disappear.

[iwiereng]

I've been following this problem since yesterday because I have the same problem. My mechanic has suggested that it's a faulty FRM Module costing $AUD1000 just for the part. High beam does come on if I hold the stalk towards me, but not when I push away. Both ways shows a blue light on the dashboard. My mechanic "reprogrammed the FRM Module but when tested, it worked okay for a short period of time and then reverted to not functioning correctly".

[Eddien123]

Originally Posted by RedSled

do you have automatic high beams?

Does any pre lci?

[Wag-on]

Have the same issue in my 2008 E91 328i. After much research this is the only post I can find that had the same issues and I Did. Any cause/fix found?

[natedog7700]

Have the same problem.... Anybody have experience with this?

[mecheng77]

I thought it was a safety feature and you can not keep your high beams on all the time. If I put my high beam on, I have to hold the stalk, I thought that is how it is designed???

[hunginator]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

I thought it was a safety feature and you can not keep your high beams on all the time. If I put my high beam on, I have to hold the stalk, I thought that is how it is designed???

Have you tried pushing the stalk rather than pulling it?

[THX-1]

Hi there,
2018 and still no solution?
I have the same problem on my 2007 325i e90.
😟

[sfinxen]

For you who still haven’t found any solution:
I had the exact same problem as described in this thread.
I replaced the right xenon module, called ballast, (GX-E90) and now it works.
I used a multimeter and measured the ballast both when the light was working and when it wasn’t. I had to measure since I had to understand which of the two ballast’s wasn’t working. And then I realized that it was the right ballast which was the problem.
It’s a bit tricky to replace, but it solved the problem.

[horseless_carriage]

I ran into a very similar sounding issue on my E85 Z4, the solution may be very cheap if you have access to some basic electrical tools.

Root Cause: Poor wire routing inside the headlight housing caused the bi-xenon solenoid wire to abrade against the sharp sheet metal of the projector. This eventually wore down to the copper and shorted solenoid + to the grounded projector housing.

This abrasion only occurred on one of my headlights but I believe both solenoids share a common power supply with built-in over-current protection. So when a fault is detected on one bi-xenon, they both shut off. This explains why they typically stay off for a while after a fault occurs, these types of power supplies tend to have an intentional delay before they can be energized again.

I also noticed that my high beams usually failed or 'fixed' themselves when going over bumps, this is likely because the shorted wire was momentarily disconnecting from the housing.

Solution:
1. locate signs of arcing in the headlight

a. likely only occurred on one side

b. removing the bulb cover should allow for inspection

2. remove affected headlight from car

a. much easier to complete repair on a work bench

3. cut out damaged section of solenoid wire and extend both solenoid wires by ~100mm

a. this allows for the wire to be safely be routed away from the projector housing

b. tin the wires individually before soldering them together, especially in a tight space like this

c. dont forget to protect the solder joints with heat shrink tubing

4. if possible, zip tie the solenoid wires to another cluster of wires to pull them out of the way

a. in my case I was also able to tuck them into a wire guide molded into the headlight

Suggestions: not related to original issue, but good practice
5. add adhesive cable tie mount to base of headlight to strain relief turn signal wires
6. zip tie halo/angel eye wires to plastic boss to strain relief

a. will need to cut off zip tie if bulb needs to be replaced

Other: In my headlight on of the turn signal wires had abraded on the HID igniter, luckily it was the ground wire so it did not cause any problems (shorting ground to ground, not an issue). While I was in there I repaired this damaged wire and routed it more safely too.

It is worth noting that my headlight is marked with the brand "Hella" I would suspect other Hella headlight modules suffer from the same poor wire routing. So this should apply to more BMWs than just my Z4, pretty sure BMW uses them extensively.

I have attached some pictures for clarity

[Mikep2212]

Hi guys, im having an issue with my e92 coupe with xenons. Passenger dipped and high beam wont work at all switched ballast and bulb from drive side which works fine and still doesnt make the passenger side function. Is there any suggestions or common faults inside the headlight i can check at all ?

[THX-1]

Hello,

Any solution ?

[MadJoe]

Originally Posted by THX-1

Hello,

Any solution ?

Yes. There's the potential solution shown above in horseless_carriage's very detailed post, and there's the potential solution of changing your engine to chassis ground cable.

If it isn't one of those two, though, I don't have any others.

Just keep in mind that any time you have electrical gremlins in these cars, the engine to chassis ground cable should be one of the first things you check. Obviously it isn't always going to be the problem, but it can certainly cause electrical issues if it's bad. They last ~50k to 75k miles (they'll turn green and be crumbly), cost about $50, and take 20-30 minutes to install if you have ramps and tools.

[Nando_e90]

Originally Posted by THX-1

Hello,

Any solution ?

I also think that it’s likely the wires inside the headlight. I am saying that because I just cleaned my xenon headlight’s inside and I had to rebuilt ALL the wire’s plastic wrap because it was toasted and with just a little move, it cracked. The above post shows a solution, and this video is an option as well: