[Ray]

Originally Posted by RRGOO7

deff not every shop does......the reason i am iffy about my shop is because i watched the tech align my car.....he set the toe all around to .05 then he print out the sheet and went under the front end of the car and tightened one thing on each side of the front of the car....this gave me the feeling like when he tighten it up maybe it threw it all off?

Im going to get aligned at another shop tommrow to make sure its all good...its worth the extra 100 bux

Re-aligning it will be a very good idea.

Originally Posted by KL2DC

wow awesome Ray...

Btw those items you sent me fit like a glove , pics to follow I'm very happy...

Donny, if you ever need an alignment, just hop on Hwy 80 for a couple days and the work will be on me!

[Rodrigo]

Ray, you seem to have a lot of experience aligning E9Xs so I have a few questions for you.

In your experience has it been easy to realign an E92/3 to factory specs after being lowered with H&R Sport springs? By easy I mean something any alignment shop can do without the need for additional parts such as camber plates. If not, what else is required?

If so, about how much of a drop will allow us realign a E92/3 back to factory specs easily? Is an H&R Sport drop the lowest without sacrificing in terms of the alignment/tire wear?

On the E92/3s with H&R Sports that you've performed an alignment on where the realigned specs barely within the factory limits or where you able to get them to the center of the factory spec range?

I see that you mentioned that if you run wider tires than OEM that the camber that you run should be slighlty more positive than the factory recommended settings, but I'm assuming that I should still remain within their recommended spec range, correct? So if I go with 265/30/19s or 275/30/19s in the rear I should aim for a camber -1.3? I don't think it'd be a good idea to go all the way to their positive range limit of +0.1 on the front tires so I'm assuming -.1 to -.2 would be good for the front if the tires are a little wider than OEM, correct? In your experiece, are these specs even obtainable with an H&R Sport drop?

Sorry for all the damn questions, Ray, but I've been researching them for a while and no one seems to have a definite answer. I would love to get rid of the huge front wheel gap on my E93, but have been very hesitant to lower the car since I don't want to have any of the alignment/tire wear issues I've had in the past.

Thank you very much!!

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Rodrigo

In your experience has it been easy to realign an E92/3 to factory specs after being lowered with H&R Sport springs? By easy I mean something any alignment shop can do without the need for additional parts such as camber plates. If not, what else is required?

If so, about how much of a drop will allow us realign a E92/3 back to factory specs easily? Is an H&R Sport drop the lowest without sacrificing in terms of the alignment/tire wear?

On the E92/3s with H&R Sports that you've performed an alignment on where the realigned specs barely within the factory limits or where you able to get them to the center of the factory spec range?

I see that you mentioned that if you run wider tires than OEM that the camber that you run should be slighlty more positive than the factory recommended settings, but I'm assuming that I should still remain within their recommended spec range, correct? So if I go with 265/30/19s or 275/30/19s in the rear I should aim for a camber -1.3? I don't think it'd be a good idea to go all the way to their positive range limit of +0.1 on the front tires so I'm assuming -.1 to -.2 would be good for the front if the tires are a little wider than OEM, correct? In your experiece, are these specs even obtainable with an H&R Sport drop?

Hey Rodrigo,
The E9x rear has a full range of adjustments for both camber and toe, and the front has no OE camber adjustments while the toe has a full range.

I have seen many E9x with H&R Sports fall within range, but some do not. As we all know, no two cars are exactly alike. This occurance is very unpredictable and has happened to both E90 and E92. I can safely assume that the H&R Sport drop barely surpasses the threshold.

Here are the two solutions to adjusting front camber:
1) Camber plate (as you mentioned)
2) Remove nub from the top of OE camber plate (allowing a 0.5 degree adjustment range)(yes, it's safe)

I recommend Solution #2 during spring installation.

The rear tire clearance is always my biggest concern. As you mentioned, you are in the mercey of the fenders allowance. With a 265 tire on a 9.5" +30mm wheel, you can adjust with the full range.

No specs are available for lowered cars, but the Sport specs accomodate pretty well.

[Rodrigo]

Thank you for the info, Ray.

How exactly does one go about removing the nub from the top of OE camber plate? I'm not exactly mechanically inclined and haven't heard it mentioned before, maybe because I'm new to BMWs. Is this technique widely known and should it be reasonably expected that any alignment shop be able to do this? Last question, you said it gives you an additional 0.5 degrees of adjustment, is this towards the positive or negative end of the range or split between the two?

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Rodrigo

Thank you for the info, Ray.

How exactly does one go about removing the nub from the top of OE camber plate? I'm not exactly mechanically inclined and haven't heard it mentioned before, maybe because I'm new to BMWs. Is this technique widely known and should it be reasonably expected that any alignment shop be able to do this? Last question, you said it gives you an additional 0.5 degrees of adjustment, is this towards the positive or negative end of the range or split between the two?

This nub will screw off and is recommended during isntallation of springs/shocks. Otherwise, whoever does your alignment will have to remove your wheels and pull out the upper half of the suspension component to access the nub.

The nub simply guides the upper mount in place and is a trade secret.

+/- 0.5 range

[leftcoastman]

Originally Posted by Ray

This nub will screw off and is recommended during isntallation of springs/shocks. Otherwise, whoever does your alignment will have to remove your wheels and pull out the upper half of the suspension component to access the nub.

The nub simply guides the upper mount in place and is a trade secret.

+/- 0.5 range

Ray, you are a rockstar.

So with the nub removed, I can get a total of -0.7 - 0.5 = -1.2 degrees of negative camber up front?

Once the nub is removed, can I quickly and easily adjust camber? In other words, I'd probably run normal spec on the street and dial it to max negative for track days. Thanks!

[Ray]

Originally Posted by leftcoastman

Ray, you are a rockstar.

So with the nub removed, I can get a total of -0.7 - 0.5 = -1.2 degrees of negative camber up front?

Once the nub is removed, can I quickly and easily adjust camber? In other words, I'd probably run normal spec on the street and dial it to max negative for track days. Thanks!

Keep in mind that the front has no true camber adjustment.

Otherwise, you are correct. If your car's camber reads (y), you can deviate to (y +/- 0.5).

[Rodrigo]

Originally Posted by Ray

Keep in mind that the front has no true camber adjustment.

Please forgive my ignorance, but if there is no "true" camber adjustment for the front, how is the camber adjusted once the nub is removed?

[JIMD1709]

Originally Posted by Rodrigo

Please forgive my ignorance, but if there is no "true" camber adjustment for the front, how is the camber adjusted once the nub is removed?

I'm no expert, but I think it is because you can now "shift" the OE plate around a little. As opposed to the nub "centering" the plate in place. That sound right Ray?

[335iheLLraiseR]

Originally Posted by RRGOO7

deff not every shop does......the reason i am iffy about my shop is because i watched the tech align my car.....he set the toe all around to .05 then he print out the sheet and went under the front end of the car and tightened one thing on each side of the front of the car....this gave me the feeling like when he tighten it up maybe it threw it all off?

Im going to get aligned at another shop tommrow to make sure its all good...its worth the extra 100 bux

hey, what shop are you taking it too....?

[ElCapitan]

This thead should be added as a sticky in this section.

Thanks.

[Ray]

Originally Posted by Rodrigo

Please forgive my ignorance, but if there is no "true" camber adjustment for the front, how is the camber adjusted once the nub is removed?

Originally Posted by JIMD1709

I'm no expert, but I think it is because you can now "shift" the OE plate around a little. As opposed to the nub "centering" the plate in place. That sound right Ray?

Jim's exactly right!

[RRGOO7]

Originally Posted by 335iheLLraiseR

hey, what shop are you taking it too....?

Miami Chassis and Alignment SUCKS.........The alignment factory finally got it right ...i drove to palm beach and back and tires are wearing perfectly

[calvino]

great info thanks

[335iheLLraiseR]

Originally Posted by RRGOO7

Miami Chassis and Alignment SUCKS.........The alignment factory finally got it right ...i drove to palm beach and back and tires are wearing perfectly

thats y i asked you where you were going.....i was going to refer you to them. they do great work. especially on slammed cars.

[Vegas_Sirk]

Originally Posted by ElCapitan

This thead should be added as a sticky in this section.

Thanks.

+1

[Toda Party]

please sticky this!

search ftw.

U guys think it's worth bringing my car back to the alignment shop if:

(E90 with left side all within spec)

Right Front Camber: -1.1 (range -0.2 to -0.9)
Right Rear camber: -2.3 (range -1.6 to -2.1)

Car was drifting right before the alignment (previous was -2.8 RR camber with 0.27 toe haha) - still sorta drifts right but I'm not sure if the tires need to even out or whatever.
Just a DD, stock everything. Thanks a lot.

[ellipsis212]

6 y/o thread.