[sa1lor]

I try to stick to the motto of if it ain't broke don't fix it, and just throwing parts at the car. However, that has bitten me in the ass more often that not...i.e. most recently the ESS.

I would just replace the VC if you can afford it, eventually the PCV valve is going to tear and go out and you will have to replace the VC anyway, but do not skimp and buy the aftermarket URO one... I was told they just don't fit quite right and continue to leak.

[IrishWristwatch]

Originally Posted by triax37

Since folks are reading this thread...Is it possible to use a 2006 N52 metal valve cover on a 2007 N52?

I have a 2007 E91 which is on its 3rd valve cover and gasket. I'm curious if I can buy a valve cover from a local parts car, and use that and a new gasket on my 2007. Instead of the plastic $450 part, which may fail again, I'll spend $100 and be able to replace future gaskets easily. Thanks in advance!

Sorry man, the 2006 and 2007 models are not interchangeable. Its my understanding that the plastic will deform and "bow between bolts" over time and loose its ability to properly seal.

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Use the windshield wiper cowl semi-removal technique and throw one of your old spark plug sleeves in the space to hold it up. I've seen someone suggest trimming a piece off the metal where the cowl rubber trim is normally located (since you won't see it when you replace the rubber trim). Up to you, but we're talking Subaru-level clearances to get that back corner off/on, so you may want to give yourself as much clearance as you can.

It is very tight in there but I found that at least on the older version (2006 325i), you can pull the rubber trim/seal off of the edge of the whipper cowl and get the clearance you need. It can be pushed back into place after the cover is off. I wish I knew that before I started.

[6ixSpd]

Originally Posted by sa1lor

Due to all of the great information and help with my E36, E46, and E90 that I have received from this forum and others over the years, I felt compelled to share my recent experience with the PCV valve and Eccentric Shaft Sensor going out on my 328i with 128,000 miles.

After my car spent the night parked downtown on an approximate 10 degree right to left incline, I had an extremely rough start and idle followed by an ungodly high pitched scream coming from the engine. I revved it a little and the whine went away briefly before I set off for home. The car felt fine between 2.5k and 3k rpm on the interstate but felt like it was going to kill at idle. An extremely uncomfortable feeling, not to mention all of the glaring eyes I received due to the insanely high pitched scream coming from under my hood. Long story short, the engine quit on me as I pulled onto my street, I parked it and hit the forums. After discovering that it could be a torn PCV valve, and learning I was now in the market for an entire new valve cover since the valve is integral to it, I stumbled upon a video of someone on an E39 removing the oil filler cap while the engine was running. The leaking valve was evident due to the cap being sucked onto the valve cover. Oddly enough the screaming noise went away for an entire day after I removed the oil cap...

After deciding that the valve cover DIY was a little more involved that I cared to perform, due to time constraints, and lack of tools, I dropped the car off at
a BMW indy the next morning, the valve cover was replaced ($900 after tax) and I was back on the road the next day.

Fast forward 2 weeks, I hopped in my car to head to work and...crank but no start. After several cranks and a stomp on the floor, she started but once again extremely rough idle. Once again I hit the forums and found that I could have clogged/dirty VANOS solenoids. So I pulled them and cleaned them up, reinstalled, and the car was running completely normal. Went to bed feeling like champ... until the next morning...crank, no start, and EVERY light on the dash went on (ABS, DSC, CEL, etc...). Finally got it to start and ran the codes... P103A (VVT Sensor Temp Too High), P1017 (VVT Guiding Sensor Plausibility), P1056 (VVT Control Circuit High), then drove it straight back to the indy who determined it was the Eccentric Shaft Sensor which we just had access to with the valve cover off....

Tack on another $900...back on the road and everything seems A-OK.

Happy driving everyone.

Ouch.

That $1800 could've very easily paid for all the tools you needed and two new valve covers right there... and then some.

Situations like this are a prime example to learn and invest time to DIY such doable repairs. A VCG replacement shouldn't take more than 4-6 hours for a newbie. Otherwise you end up spending 1/4 of the car's value on such repairs at shops... doesn't really seem worthwhile to own such a high mileage car at that point.

[Tewie]

Have any of you had an incredibly difficult time replacing the valve cover without the gasket falling off? What are your tricks?

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by Tewie

Have any of you had an incredibly difficult time replacing the valve cover without the gasket falling off? What are your tricks?

Permatex Black RTV. Put a little in the back spots and corners then let it dry. It'll hold it in place while you set it down and tighten up.

[zeitgeist007]

You may already have heard of the recall for PCV Valve Heater and Blower Motor Wiring for 3 series from ‘07-‘11. If yours falls in the category, you could ask for refund... although I’m not sure if they’ll pay for the valve cover and gasket...

Originally Posted by sa1lor

Due to all of the great information and help with my E36, E46, and E90 that I have received from this forum and others over the years, I felt compelled to share my recent experience with the PCV valve and Eccentric Shaft Sensor going out on my 328i with 128,000 miles.

After my car spent the night parked downtown on an approximate 10 degree right to left incline, I had an extremely rough start and idle followed by an ungodly high pitched scream coming from the engine. I revved it a little and the whine went away briefly before I set off for home. The car felt fine between 2.5k and 3k rpm on the interstate but felt like it was going to kill at idle. An extremely uncomfortable feeling, not to mention all of the glaring eyes I received due to the insanely high pitched scream coming from under my hood. Long story short, the engine quit on me as I pulled onto my street, I parked it and hit the forums. After discovering that it could be a torn PCV valve, and learning I was now in the market for an entire new valve cover since the valve is integral to it, I stumbled upon a video of someone on an E39 removing the oil filler cap while the engine was running. The leaking valve was evident due to the cap being sucked onto the valve cover. Oddly enough the screaming noise went away for an entire day after I removed the oil cap...

After deciding that the valve cover DIY was a little more involved that I cared to perform, due to time constraints, and lack of tools, I dropped the car off at
a BMW indy the next morning, the valve cover was replaced ($900 after tax) and I was back on the road the next day.

Fast forward 2 weeks, I hopped in my car to head to work and...crank but no start. After several cranks and a stomp on the floor, she started but once again extremely rough idle. Once again I hit the forums and found that I could have clogged/dirty VANOS solenoids. So I pulled them and cleaned them up, reinstalled, and the car was running completely normal. Went to bed feeling like champ... until the next morning...crank, no start, and EVERY light on the dash went on (ABS, DSC, CEL, etc...). Finally got it to start and ran the codes... P103A (VVT Sensor Temp Too High), P1017 (VVT Guiding Sensor Plausibility), P1056 (VVT Control Circuit High), then drove it straight back to the indy who determined it was the Eccentric Shaft Sensor which we just had access to with the valve cover off....

Tack on another $900...back on the road and everything seems A-OK.

Happy driving everyone.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by zeitgeist007

You may already have heard of the recall for PCV Valve Heater and Blower Motor Wiring for 3 series from ‘07-‘11. If yours falls in the category, you could ask for refund... although I’m not sure if they’ll pay for the valve cover and gasket...

They won't. Those recalls don't touch the VC.

[peafarmer]

For "cementing" the gasket into the valve cover before re-assembly would motor oil or grease hold it in good enough to get it on?

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by peafarmer

For "cementing" the gasket into the valve cover before re-assembly would motor oil or grease hold it in good enough to get it on?

Just get the Permatex black. It's <$7. Put a few dabs in the back corners that are harder to control and you're set. It's not really needed — just makes things easier. Also remember that if you do use the permatex, you need to give it time to set.

You're fighting against the purpose of oil if you think it's going to help hold it in effectively — unless you are using some really thick differential oil or something (which you shouldn't). It would just make the job messier anyway.

[peafarmer]

I am having a difficult time removing the ignition coil wiring harness. I can easily unclip the three clips forward of the valvetronic, but there seems to be something holding it in rearward of the valvetronic. Can somebody who has done this tell me what I am missing? I watch videos of this, and this thing is supposed to come out easily....?
Thanks,
Andy

OK, I figured it out. I did not believe it, I watched a number of videos and the guys just pulled up on it and it came off. For those that are as squeamish as me, on the wire harness on the passenger's side of the valve cover: there are two plastic jaws that hold the wire harness that goes over the top of the valve cover to the injector side. You need to release those jaws. Once they are released, the plastic assembly under the ignition coils can be just popped up. I released the 3 tabs that were clearly visible first, but this is not necessary. When popped up you can see that there are two more tabs on the underside of the rear of the assembly under those two huge wire clusters.

[DialedIn]

Great post! I just changed my VCG and it took me a good 6hrs.

[Denny347]

Originally Posted by DialedIn

Great post! I just changed my VCG and it took me a good 6hrs.

I find doing this stuff very rewarding, relaxing.

[tyoder87]

So I just finished replacing my valve cover gasket on my 07 328i. However now the car has a ticking noise and rides terribly. Shakes the entire car while driving. Didn't do this before the valve cover gasket replacement. Anyone know what the cause of this issue could be?

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by tyoder87

So I just finished replacing my valve cover gasket on my 07 328i. However now the car has a ticking noise and rides terribly. Shakes the entire car while driving. Didn't do this before the valve cover gasket replacement. Anyone know what the cause of this issue could be?

Did you reset/relearn the valvetronic position?

[TGTIW]

I just finished mine this weekend. Overall not too difficult, I think the 2 most helpful tips are to loosen and raise the cowl, and make sure you have a decent magnetic pick-up tool..

Once everything was opened up, the internals looked clean and in good shape.

[IMG]IMG_1492 by B Graber, on Flickr[/IMG]

Here's a shot of the old gaskets:

[IMG]IMG_1498 by B Graber, on Flickr[/IMG]

Considering how hard and brittle they were, it's no surprise they leaked.

I replaced my ESS as well. I highly recommend the lower cost VDO replacement part, you can clearly see where the BMW brand and part # is etched out:

[IMG] IMG_1496 by B Graber, on Flickr[/IMG]

Also, on my existing ESS the lower bolt was not captured, so be mindful when removing yours, wouldn't want that dropping into the head.

In total it took me two days. I certainly wasn't in a hurry and cleaned the hell out of everything while I went.

[IMG]IMG_1480 by B Graber, on Flickr[/IMG]

Ok, to be honest, this is the photo I took before I started, so for the after just imagine this slightly cleaner.

[POBEP]

I need a pro-tip.

What is the safest way to pry VC from the head?
Is there specific location where VC would be more resilient to screwdriver manipulations?

TL;DR;
I am an "expert" of breaking (old) plastic parts.
My VCG has a very small leak in the back - it sits firmly all round .
My fear is to crack VC while prying it with screwdriver.

[bluewater328]

Along the edge, but really if you have everything off, it will just pop off.

[Luis561]

Originally Posted by POBEP

I need a pro-tip.

What is the safest way to pry VC from the head?
Is there specific location where VC would be more resilient to screwdriver manipulations?

TL;DR;
I am an "expert" of breaking (old) plastic parts.
My VCG has a very small leak in the back - it sits firmly all round .
My fear is to crack VC while prying it with screwdriver.

You're overthinking. You'll be fine it's not that hard you just need patience and careful not to scratch the metal.

[POBEP]

bluewater328 Luis561 - thanks guys!

Yes, I overthink a lot
Patience and moving around the edge should do it.

I went through forums & youtube - all have VC just pop right up (or with wide pry bar light assistance).

I got it started a bit with wide pry bar and then switched to plastic putty knife.
Almost got front side separated.

It does "feel" that something is still holding it.
I have 2 studs, center and perimeter bolts loose.

Anything else I missed?

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by POBEP

bluewater328 Luis561 - thanks guys!

Yes, I overthink a lot
Patience and moving around the edge should do it.

I went through forums & youtube - all have VC just pop right up (or with wide pry bar light assistance).

I got it started a bit with wide pry bar and then switched to plastic putty knife.
Almost got front side separated.

It does "feel" that something is still holding it.
I have 2 studs, center and perimeter bolts loose.

Anything else I missed?

I see the ground bolts in the middle still on.

Did you remove the plug tube seals? It isn't technically required but it helps to take them out as they add height when you remove the vc.

Also assume you've already disconnected the PCV from the rear of the vc.

[POBEP]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

I see the ground bolts in the middle still on.

I unscred middle ground posts and center one (I put nuts back on so I do not lose them)
Do middle ground posts and center one come out completely?

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Did you remove the plug tube seals? It isn't technically required but it helps to take them out as they add height when you remove the vc.

yes.
my LED flashlight makes it look like they are still there. (and ordered new ones)

Originally Posted by bluewater328

Also assume you've already disconnected the PCV from the rear of the vc.

yes. followed tip at 16:25 here

I have impression that my gasket(s) are in better shape than others that separated easily.

New parts are expected this Friday.
I should have plenty of time before then to lift and clean VC

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by POBEP

I unscred middle ground posts and center one (I put nuts back on so I do not lose them)
Do middle ground posts and center one come out completely?

yes.
my LED flashlight makes it look like they are still there. (and ordered new ones)

yes. followed tip at 16:25 here

I have impression that my gasket(s) are in better shape than others that separated easily.

New parts are expected this Friday.
I should have plenty of time before then to lift and clean VC

either you've missed something obvious or the last owner used gasket maker. Back can get caught up near the windshield cowl and the ECU area as there is a single lip on the wiring box that some people even cut to ease removal. Reason why you have to at least remove the cover and pull the cables from their default areas to create slack (which I see you've done). Windshield cowl can be semi disconnected so it creates room too, but that's just pulling it away clearance vs just getting it off.