[Stuiterbal]

Hey guys. I recently got myself a 2008 BMW 335i. The paint was in pretty good shape but the headlights were not.

I'm not much of a DIY guy but looking at this YouTube video, I figured, even an idiot like me can do this. I have no power tools and had to do everything by hand. I wanted the long term solution by applying the spray on clear coat. I followed the guide from this video to the letter:

- Wetsanded with P400 - P600 - P2000
- Cleaned up with alcohol
- Applied three layers of clear coat, with 5 minutes in between

After 24h I ended up with massive orange peel. The video tells you that if you have orange peel, you can clean it up with using P2000 gently, again. Tried that, but that only made my situation worse.

Having read way too much information, guides and posts on these projects, I am not sure what to do next. Can anybody help me by suggesting my next move?

- Try to clean this up with some sort of compound/polish?
- Start over completely and retry the clear coating in better conditions (more aggressive wetsand, outside, longer wait times between layers)?
- Get myself a powerdrill and get myself one of those headlight restoration kits and forget about the clearcoat (seems the easiest solution, but will only last for months?)

Pics:
1) State of headlights as I got them:


2) Finished manual wetsanding:


3) After clearcoating, massive orange peel:


4) Attempted cleanup with P2000 (painful):

[whyzee125]

I would sand down with something gritty, go get through the clear coat and back into plastic. Work your way up through the grits again and use a polish/scratch remover and then either wax them, use wipe nu, or use a protective film.

[Stuiterbal]

Originally Posted by whyzee125

I would sand down with something gritty, go get through the clear coat and back into plastic. Work your way up through the grits again and use a polish/scratch remover and then either wax them, use wipe nu, or use a protective film.

Thanks. I can do the full wetsanding again. Regarding the polish, can I use Meguiar's G10307 ScratchX 2.0, or should I get something like Megs Ultimate Compound? And sorry, what do you mean with wipe nu?

[whyzee125]

Originally Posted by Stuiterbal

Thanks. I can do the full wetsanding again. Regarding the polish, can I use Meguiar's G10307 ScratchX 2.0, or should I get something like Megs Ultimate Compound? And sorry, what do you mean with wipe nu?

Wipe nu is a product that can be wiped on the lights to protect from UV rays and keep them looking minty fresh. They sell it at walmart and o'reilly, etc. I'm not sure which compound/polish would be best, sorry. I think any good scratch remover would work though!

[6ixSpd]

Wetsand it all down and then use Wipe-New to seal them. After 24-48 hour curing, put XPel paint protection/headlight clear film and you'll be set for years.

My E90's headlights still look great 2 years after being restored with the above combo and being subjected to the outdoors 24/7.

[Run Silent]

Originally Posted by Stuiterbal

Thanks. I can do the full wetsanding again. Regarding the polish, can I use Meguiar's G10307 ScratchX 2.0, or should I get something like Megs Ultimate Compound? And sorry, what do you mean with wipe nu?

What are you using for the polishing step? Hand application or DA?

[Stuiterbal]

Originally Posted by 6ixSpd

Wetsand it all down and then use Wipe-New to seal them. After 24-48 hour curing, put XPel paint protection/headlight clear film and you'll be set for years.

My E90's headlights still look great 2 years after being restored with the above combo and being subjected to the outdoors 24/7.

Will do some reading on the Wipe-New and XPel film. Haven't really come across this solution with the film yet, surprisingly.

Your headlights are looking pretty sweet though

Originally Posted by usshelena725

What are you using for the polishing step? Hand application or DA?

Don't have a DA so hand application. The initial YouTube vid gave me the impression that this could be done properly with just hand wetsanding and spray on clear coat. Thinking now that the headlights were initially ok (not great) after wetsanding but I messed up the clear coat. Oh well.

[Run Silent]

Originally Posted by Stuiterbal

Don't have a DA so hand application. The initial YouTube vid gave me the impression that this could be done properly with just hand wetsanding and spray on clear coat. Thinking now that the headlights were initially ok (not great) after wetsanding but I messed up the clear coat. Oh well.

You aren't going to be able to get enough friction to smooth down the damage caused by wetsanding with hand power alone. You really need a decent DA to get it done. With a decent DA, you won't even need the clear coat.

The best method by far I have found, and have done this on past cars, and is the one the professionals use is as follows:

1) Wet sand any abrasion and sun damage down on the headlight. (I think you slipped up a bit here too, based on your photos. It doesn't look like you got the surface down enough. I can still see some sun damage in the last photo.)

2) Use a DA (Porter Cable 7424 works great for a good price, about $120. Harbor Freight DA is also good, but the backing plate is terrible, about $90 with a decent backing plate), and some Megs UC or Pinnacle Advanced Compound to knock down the high spots.

3) Use a DA with a finer polish, such as Megs Scratch-X or Poorboy’s World Polish to finish up any smaller defects.

4) Use any LSP of your choosing to get a nice final finish.

5) Protect your completed project with a nice clear film, I am partial to Lamin-X , but there are several options out there.

Links below:

Poorboy’s World Polish: https://www.autogeek.net/poorboys-polish-blue.html

Pinnacle Advanced Compound: https://www.autopia-carcare.com/pinn...l#.W7S5ZGhKiUk

Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G172...06W5HCZ9M?th=1

Meguiar's ScratchX 2.0: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-...atchX/16550259

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP: https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-.../dp/B002654I46

Harbor Freight DA Polisher: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-5...her-69924.html

Flexible Backing Plate for HF Polisher: https://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-C...P56/148-mm-S1/

Lamin-X Headlight Film: https://www.lamin-x.com/precut-film-...covers-1747797

[Stuiterbal]

Originally Posted by usshelena725

You aren't going to be able to get enough friction to smooth down the damage caused by wetsanding with hand power alone. You really need a decent DA to get it done. With a decent DA, you won't even need the clear coat.

The best method by far I have found, and have done this on past cars, and is the one the professionals use is as follows:

1) Wet sand any abrasion and sun damage down on the headlight. (I think you slipped up a bit here too, based on your photos. It doesn't look like you got the surface down enough. I can still see some sun damage in the last photo.)

2) Use a DA (Porter Cable 7424 works great for a good price, about $120. Harbor Freight DA is also good, but the backing plate is terrible, about $90 with a decent backing plate), and some Megs UC or Pinnacle Advanced Compound to knock down the high spots.

3) Use a DA with a finer polish, such as Megs Scratch-X or Poorboy’s World Polish to finish up any smaller defects.

4) Use any LSP of your choosing to get a nice final finish.

5) Protect your completed project with a nice clear film, I am partial to Lamin-X , but there are several options out there.

I was already wondering whether I would be able to remove the mountainous layers of clearcoat by hand. I will consider getting a DA or basic power drill.

What kind of product are you referring to for #4? A wax/sealant?

Thanks for your suggestions!

[Run Silent]

Originally Posted by Stuiterbal

I was already wondering whether I would be able to remove the mountainous layers of clearcoat by hand. I will consider getting a DA or basic power drill.

What kind of product are you referring to for #4? A wax/sealant?

Thanks for your suggestions!

Yessir. LSP is a Last Step Product. Final wax or sealant.

Avoid the drill type products because you won't be able to use it for anything else. Instead of spending $30 for a drill attachment, spend a little extra and now you own an awesome DA.

[spazzz]

I thought I would throw this out there. It is a few quotes from AutoGeek.

"I do a lot of headlights. You need to start with 800 dry, then 1000 dry, then 1500 wet, 2000 wet, then a heavy compound followed by a good polish. Lot of work, but you need to remove the damaged plastic. I have gone down to 400, but never 200."

I then asked why dry sanding since I have always used wet, his response.

"quicker. Cut with it dry, then smooth it with wet (damp, actually) If I need to cut with 400, I will damp sand with it. However, 800 and 1000 cut great dry."


I use my Porter Cable with a 3 inch backing plate when I sand. I haven't had to go heavy.
I have 1500 and 3000 Trizact 3 inch discs.

You could grab the Harbor Freight DA from their store. The 3 inch backing plate and 3 inch foam interface from Amazon.
Hunt for some hook and loop wet sand paper and trim it to fit the backing plate. The round discs are ideal but pricey.

Take the headlights off the car and make it easy.

Use 2K clear if you go that route again but stop at 1000 or 1500.
This kit is around $40 on ebay.

[Stuiterbal]

Alright guys, it's been some time. After further reading, research and your suggestions, I decided to go for the 3M Headlight Restoration Kit. This is your basic kit with sanding disks, polishing pad and some compound for a power drill. After scouting two Homedepot locations to rent a powerdrill, I ragequitted and got myself the cheapest throwaway one from a Walmart. Unfortunately this drill was only 500rpm while you actually want something like 1500rpm. Oh well.

I got sanding, to remove my fubar layer of clear coat. The polishing was painfully slow with my shabby drill. See the attachments for the results.

I gave my yellowed turn signals some love too.

My results are definitely not perfect. Plenty ultra fine scratches remain and despite three layers of tape, I damaged a few bits of my paint. However, the net results are what I was looking for. The headlight performance is great and the looks are also great. My little three hour project ended up costing me around 50~ hours in research, buying, sanding+clearcoat, doing it all over again, waiting and stress. Am happy with the results now, plus I learned quite a lot .

Sidenote: as a final coating I initially got myself the Wipe New headlight kit. I ended up with some streaks that killed the looks. Raged again and polished it off. I now use carnauba wax as protectant and will maintain it for now. I may try (and first practice somehow) with my spray on clear coat at some point in the future. For now the wax will do.

Thanks for everyone that provided suggestions and thoughts in this thread.

[Run Silent]

Those headlights look very nice - congrats on a job well done, even if it did take many hours and curse words!

To keep them protected in the short term, try something like Opti-Seal. That will last about 30 days or so before needed to reapply. Wax will really need to be applied once or twice a week to provide any protection for all your hard work.

For a permanent solution to protect all the work you have done, cover them with clear covers. There are several good brands out there, but I have had the best success with Lamin-X. Links below:



Opti-Seal: https://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-seal.html

Lamin-X headlight Covers: https://www.lamin-x.com/



.

[King Rudi]

Great job OP! They look much better. Welcome to the world of DIY and figuring out how to get it done. As I'm sure you learned on this project, not all DIY projects are cookie cutter. Much of what you see done on the internet are the quick and easy ways of getting things done, use those methods of direction and pointers, but many times their methods don't always work. As usshelena posted above lamin-x makes good stuff!

[whyzee125]

Those look great! I'm inspired to go do mine now

[UncleShrek]

The one thing that i can relate to in all this is the rage part. I too have followed all these 'simple', 'easy', 'anyone can do' YouTube videos only to into Super Saiyan type rage. Lol
My headlights are the worst part of my vehicle, i think i will spare myself the hassle and pay the pros once i decide to tackle this
Great work op, headlights looks great.

[Stuiterbal]

Thanks guys

I guess doing these kinds of things depend on how much of energy and time you are willing to spend, rather than letting a professional do it.

Originally Posted by usshelena725

For a permanent solution to protect all the work you have done, cover them with clear covers. There are several good brands out there, but I have had the best success with Lamin-X. Links below:

Opti-Seal: https://www.autogeek.net/optimum-opti-seal.html

The Opt-Seal almost sounds to good to be true. I am looking for a semi long lasting protection that doesn't rely on that single, perfect spray or wipe to get it just right. Applying it with a pad seems to much easier. Do you have personal experience with this? The number of Amazon reviews is relatively low.

[Bobh59]

Originally Posted by Stuiterbal

Thanks guys

I guess doing these kinds of things depend on how much of energy and time you are willing to spend, rather than letting a professional do it.



The Opt-Seal almost sounds to good to be true. I am looking for a semi long lasting protection that doesn't rely on that single, perfect spray or wipe to get it just right. Applying it with a pad seems to much easier. Do you have personal experience with this? The number of Amazon reviews is relatively low.

I wouldn't use Opti-Seal. The best option is protective film with a ceramic coating being a somewhat close second. But if you don't mind applying protection twice a year then Meguiars Headlight Coating is available at Walmart for $8.44 - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-...4-oz/191830787
.

[Run Silent]

Originally Posted by Bobh59

I wouldn't use Opti-Seal. The best option is protective film with a ceramic coating being a somewhat close second. But if you don't mind applying protection twice a year then Meguiars Headlight Coating is available at Walmart for $8.44 - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Meguiars-...4-oz/191830787
.

I believe I also recommended him to use the protective film as well. Very difficult to apply a ceramic coating at home (can be done, but isn't easy) and most places aren't going to charge any less to do it professionally then the PPF films, which are a better option. I told him to use a sealant as a better option to wax, as some people are on a budget or need a temporary protection option in the interim.

Originally Posted by Stuiterbal

Thanks guys

I guess doing these kinds of things depend on how much of energy and time you are willing to spend, rather than letting a professional do it.



The Opt-Seal almost sounds to good to be true. I am looking for a semi long lasting protection that doesn't rely on that single, perfect spray or wipe to get it just right. Applying it with a pad seems to much easier. Do you have personal experience with this? The number of Amazon reviews is relatively low.

Yes, I have used it for quite some time and friends have as well. It is seriously a miracle product. Check out the autogeek forums, you will see lot's of reviews of it there from professional detailers.