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      01-21-2022, 02:46 AM   #1
Serf27
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E90 BMW Soft close doors retrofit DIY-E9X Chassis.

Here's a proper DIY on adding the soft close doors to your E9X car.
No coding required!
Hereís a video of it working.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Lhh7WYW9lmY?feature=share

This DIY works for a lot of E chassis vehicles and other chassis, as long as the car uses the door actuator design/style that is used here.
My E70 has it and its super nice!
In this DIY, I'm only doing the driver door. Installation instructions may differ on the other doors, I will edit the post when I do the other doors...

The specific actuator I used does have a pinch hazard safety mechanism. If it senses pressure when pulling the the door closed, it will stop and return to the partially closed position. That doesn't mean you can leave your finger there, it still closes for a split second before opening back up. I put a pencil on the edge of the door when it was closing, it did open back up when it sensed the pencil but in that split second where it closed, it crushed the pencil!


Images are viewed best on mobile.

Soft close motor may be referred to as ďSC motorĒ.




LIST OF PARTS NEEDED
[LIST] 1 Door Actuator w/ soft close motor from F10/F01 P/N 5121-7-185-789.
This part number brings up aftermarket actuators- 51217185689[./LIST]
IT IS IMPORTANT YOU GET AN ACTUATOR/SOFT CLOSE MOTOR THAT HAS A CABLE WITH SOME LEGNTH SO YOU CAN MOUNT THE SOFT CLOSE MOTOR.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/51217185689...-127632-2357-0

  • 1 Self locking (or regular) nut to mount the SC motor.
    P/N 6450-9-123-157
The way I mounted the motor, I only used one nut. There are 3 mounting studs on the SC motor. You will need 3 nuts if you're making a custom bracket, I didn't need to make a custom bracket. These nuts are similar to the nuts that hold the speakers to the door panels or tail lights to the body, I had some extra ones.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/64509123157/

  • 1 Soft close Motor electrical connector. P/N 6113-8-364-520
This is the connector that plugs into the SC motor.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/61138364520/

  • 1 pair of connector pins P/N 6113-0-070-586
These pins slide into the black connector listed right above this.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/61130070586/

Your door harness on the E9X chassis WILL NOT have this pigtail wrapped in the loom. I have seen this pigtail wrapped in door wire harnesses on E70 models that didn't have the SC motor, that's where I got my connector from, an old E70 door harness.

  • Black electrical tape

  • 2 electrical connectors
Using these, doesn't require any wire cutting.
https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...B&gclsrc=aw.ds



Time to start! With no issues, this should take 1-1.5 hours.

First thing that's needed is to remove the old door actuator. I won't be showing this, but here's a link showing it, once you get to the point where the actuator is removed, come back here.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...hlight=speaker

^They didn't remove the window regulator, which I highly suggest. Heres another link showing the regulator removal.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm


Now we can really begin



Step 1.) Photo #1 & #2
Your old actuator is attached to your door handle bracket with a cable. You need to remove the cable/handle bracket from the old actuator and attach it to the new actuator. It's straight forward, unclip the cable and clip it back on the new piece.

Now you should have 3 parts tied together:
Door handle bracket
Door actuator
Soft close motor
There is a yellow cover/cap on the back of your old door actuator, pop it off and clip it on the new actuator.


Step 2.) Photo #3 & #4-#5
Configure your black connector and electrical pins.
Since I used a piece from a used harness, I'll try to walk you through this step.
Based on the photos on the ECS site, it looks like its 1 single wire with 2 pins.
Cut the wire in half and insert 1 pin into each slot on the back of the black connector. You can label one as red and another as brown, or keep track of which is which. Once the pins are in the connector, give them a slight tug to make sure they don't come out and make sure they're fully seated.
The last thing you want is to have those pins/wires pop out when you put everything back together.
The connector I used had roughly 1ft of wire on it. This was barely long enough. If the ECS wire (when cut in half) is 1ft or less, I recommend extending it a little. Once the motor is mounted, its hard to work with the wires.
The top pin on the black connector will be your positive/power wire. See photo #3, take note of this wire so you can wire this one to the power on the door harness later.

If you do not have an oem connector, in theory you should be able to use 2 female wire connectors to connect wires into the motor. See Photo #4-#5.
If you use this method, secure the wires to the motor so they don't come out! Also, note which pin will be the -/+. The orientation of the motor in photo #5 shows that the top pin (green wire) would be your positive cable.



Step 3.) Time to start re-installing NO photos
Start by pushing the parts back up into the door.
First goes the door handle bracket, followed by actuator and SC motor. Bolt the door handle bracket in place so it holds the rest up.
Now bolt the actuator in place and plug it in.
Make sure your SC motor cable is free and that the new wires you added are also free.
Put your door handle back on now.


Step 4.) Mounting the Soft close motor to the door. Photo #6.5 & #7
This step is a bit hard to explain. LOOK closely at my photos to see how its mounted.
At this point, your regulator should already be bolted in and wire connectors on the motor in place.
The cable length on the SC motor is just long enough to pop out of the door so you can mount it, that's why its important to have sufficient cable slack.

Only 1 stud on the SC motor makes contact with the door frame, so I bolted that one. I held the motor in place where the stud made contact, I then put my finger over the stud and pulled the motor away and left my finger on the door. I made a pinching motion with my thumb and finger (thumb was on the outside of the door) and where my thumb was touching the door, that's where I drilled a hole. See photo #6.5.
If you put the motor in at an angle, the bottom of the edge will catch the door frame on the outside while the top is bolted on from the inside. This tension keeps the motor in place. See photo #6.5

Photo #7 shows the motor in place and shows where I ran the motor wiring.(blue line). You can also see a hole I drilled earlier to mount the motor. That position did not work because it got in the way of the window track.

YOU DO NOT WANT TO INTERFERE WITH THE WINDOW TRACK.

This method works great and the motor stays put. You're welcome to design some sort of bracket if you'd like!


Step 5.) Window track/regulator install.NO photos
Put your window regulator back on and make sure it fits without any issues. The studs on the window tracks should slide into their designated holes freely and evenly. You will mostly be paying attention to the rear track, if the studs don't slide evenly (top to bottom) then something is wrong and you need to re check the position of the SC motor.
Don't put the window back on yet until youre done with everything.


Step 6.) Locate Wires to pull power/ground. Photo #8 & #9
You can either run wires all the way to the fuse box or do the following.

Locate your window switch connector/harness. There will be 2 wires which we will pull power/ground from. Photo #8.
We will be using a RED wire with gray stripe and a brown wire from this connector.
DO NOT confuse the RED with gray stripe wire from the gray with red stripe wire.
Photo #8 shows the wires we are using circled.
The Red with gray stripe wire is a little thicker anyways, so you shouldn't get confused on which to use.
The brown ground wire is simple, just 1 brown wire on this plug.
NOTE! There is an additional brown wire in the same wire loom, this wire is used for the floor lights when the door is opened, DO NOT tap into this wire. I removed the factory tape to check which of the 2 brown wires went into the window switch so I could tap into the correct one.
Photo #9 shows this. Green=yes, Red=no.


Step 7.)Tapping into the harness Photo #10 & #11.
The clips I used have a metal plate that when squeezed down over 2 wires, makes small cuts on the wires and they make contact via the plate.
Slide the clip over a wire on your oem harness and slide the corresponding wire (red to red-brown to brown) from your SC motor into the clip. Squeeze the metal plate down with pliers and fold the plastic cover over it. See photo #10.

Tape it all up now. Photo #11 shows the harness taped, where the SC motor harness is ran, and a zip tie holding the wire up on an oem hole.

Now get out, tap your door closed and look at it work!



Once you've tried it a few times, verified its working and showed your family the modern technology door, time to put the rest back together. Really just slide the window back in place and put the vapor barrier and door panel back on.
Its a good idea, to test your window movement up and down before putting the door panel on to verify its not binding or getting caught on anything.


The placement of the motor makes for a very snug fit between the motor and door panel. The door panel clips and screws hold the panel in place just fine.

I will be updating this thread in the future for the other doors with SC mounting locations and wiring for them.

Video of it working.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Lhh7WYW9lmY?feature=share

ENJOY!
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Last edited by Serf27; 04-23-2023 at 12:35 PM..
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      01-21-2022, 02:47 AM   #2
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Reserved for passenger door:

Right front door is done and working great.

List of parts needed.

-Right front actuator- 51217185692
-Electrical tape. (I used tesa tape this time)
-Soft close motor oem pigtail or pigtail parts listed in post #1 above.


Before we start, remove your door panel and door actuator.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm


You need to move the window track closest to the actuator. I recommend that you remove the glass window too. It is easy to remove and easy to re install and will get in the way a bit if left in place.
Follow this guide on how to remove the glass and stop when you have the window out. Remove the 2 10mm nuts on the track closest to the actuator. Move that track to the center of the door. https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm

Step1.) Photo 1&2
Transfer the door handle bracket and cable from your old actuator to the soft close actuator.
Follow this guide on how to remove the door handle.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm
Once the Handel is off, remove both rubber gaskets on the door. Behind one gasket, is a small torx screw. Loosen the screw, DO NOT remove it, just loosen it and the bracket slides out of the door inwards.

Step 2.) Photo 3
Locate the wires where we will be pulling power/ground. All the harness wires but 3 are thin. The 3 thicker wires go to the mirror.
A red wire with with gray stripe will be the power wire.
A solid brown wire will be the ground wire.
Splice the 2 wires from your soft close motor to those 2 wires.
I spliced right at the junction where the wires start to come out of the door frame.
I am also using an OEM pigtail, shown in the photos.

NOTE! Plug your door actuator and soft close motor connectors in and verify every works before assembly of the actuator onto the door.

Step 3.) Photo 4&5
Itís time to mount the motor.
There isnít a lot of space to drill a hole and mount the motor as it is in other BMWs. I held the motor against the door frame and put the window track against the motor. When the 2 nuts are holding the window track, the motor is pinched between the track and door frame and stays put.

NOTE! Make sure your soft close motor is plugged in and the wires are properly routed before tightening the window track nuts. It is difficult to reach and connect it once itís in place.

NOTE! Once the motor is pinched between the track and door, re install your glass window. Verify that the window rolls up and down and does not bind or refuse to go up or down.
IF the window doesnít want to move up or down, loosen the track nuts and reposition the motor until the window rolls freely. Copy the orientation of my motor position and you should be fine.

Step4.) Photo 6&7
Secure your soft close motor wires.
The yellow line shows where I routed the wires along the door.
The yellow circle shows where my splices were made.
+Tesa tape for an OEM look.

Now get out, tap your door closed and look at it work!


At this point you can assemble what extra parts are left.

Video of it working.
https://youtube.com/shorts/0JXnfi-Zw9A?feature=share
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E93 335i-DINAN tuned. Alpine over Saddle brown

Last edited by Serf27; 04-23-2023 at 12:31 PM..
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      01-21-2022, 02:48 AM   #3
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Reserved for Driver rear door.
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E90 335i-408WHP. Alpine over Terra brown
E70 X5 35i M Sport-Stage1 Tune. Alpine over Black
E91 328 M Sport-Alpine over Black-Alpine over Saddle brown.
E93 335i-DINAN tuned. Alpine over Saddle brown
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      01-21-2022, 02:49 AM   #4
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Reserved for Passenger rear door.
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E93 335i-DINAN tuned. Alpine over Saddle brown
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      01-21-2022, 08:21 PM   #5
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Do the hatch, you coward!!!!
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      01-22-2022, 12:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazm View Post
Do the hatch, you coward!!!!
If you do the driver door, Iíll do the trunk.
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      01-22-2022, 07:45 AM   #7
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Ok, ok. I'll do it.
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      01-22-2022, 10:03 AM   #8
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Is it possible to use "soft close " from a E60-61?

thanks
Christian
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      01-22-2022, 11:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChristianMoller View Post
Is it possible to use "soft close " from a E60-61?

thanks
Christian
The cable length looks the same on the e60 soft close, so you should be able to.
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      01-22-2022, 12:37 PM   #10
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Yes i thought so too,

Thanks
/C
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      02-10-2022, 03:51 PM   #11
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I just completed the passenger door and the instructions for the drivers door matched identically.
(Posting pre-passenger door update)

Here's some misc tips I learned on my install.

•The nuts for the motor are M5.
•The window regulator is the hardest part of the retrofit, while you don't need to remove it completely you do need to take separate it from the window and tape the window up. The regulator makes positioning the actuator and motor a PITA but aside from that it's a really easy install
•I used a used OEM part. It came with a child lock that must be snipped off (make sure its in the right position!)
•I did not have to bolt my motor down, it was wedged nicely between the actuator, door, foam damper, and the window regulator.
•There is a small wiring harness right next to the actuator, be sure its tight and doesn't get pinched anywhere. If its loose enough the window can snag it when it rolls down
•I recommend properly hardwiring the motor and not using T-Taps. It's too cold to deal with now so I'll tackle it in the summer. If anyone has any questions on in-line hardwiring DM me

The yellow highlighter in the picture is power, the brown is ground.
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      06-12-2022, 01:21 PM   #12
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Hello mate, I'm looking to do this and I have found some actuators from a bmw e65 7 series but they are different from what you used and seem to use a different connector just wondering if you know if these would work or not? Tia
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      06-12-2022, 05:35 PM   #13
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Probably not because the connector is different.
Youíd have to transfer your wires to a new pin that fits those actuators.
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      06-23-2022, 02:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazm View Post
Do the hatch, you coward!!!!
I have done the tailgate on E91. Using F31 parts.
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      06-23-2022, 10:17 PM   #15
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holy shit.

let's see some pics/vids.
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      06-23-2022, 10:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazm View Post
holy shit.

let's see some pics/vids.
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1910525
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      06-23-2022, 11:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I have done the tailgate on E91. Using F31 parts.
Post pics of the machined parts. People have access to these machines.
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      11-11-2022, 02:17 AM   #18
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Any luck on the rear doors?
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      11-11-2022, 10:34 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crackerjack1000 View Post
Any luck on the rear doors?
Not yet. Mods/retrofits move at slow pace around here. Box full of upgraded parts in the garage waiting to be installed.

One rear actuator is failing and constantly saying the door is open, so perfect chance to convert it to soft close. Iím going to order one and probably post the process here in about a week.
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      11-11-2022, 10:39 AM   #20
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sub'd
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I am just here to help!
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      02-24-2023, 04:57 PM   #21
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I tried to do the rear door today.
The only place I found 12v was on the window motor connector. I tapped into it but the motor wonít work.
This time around, I am using 2 individual wires, as shown in photo #5 in my first post.

The only difference between the 2 wire method and an actual pigtail is the housing for the wires.
Is there something special to the wire plastic housing/pigtail?
The wires going to the motor have 12V. Jumping those wires with an external 12V source wonít make it work. The motor is either defective or the oem pigtail has magical capabilities.

Last edited by Serf27; 02-24-2023 at 05:26 PM..
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      02-25-2023, 12:38 AM   #22
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Quote:
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sub'd
same

I need to go back to being a ghost on e90post. Everyday I find a new retrofit I want to do
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