[Jashan90]

So just noticed a lot of howling noise coming from the back. Turns out I have a bad rear bearing. After reading a ton I'm sad to say that this is one task I will leave for my Indy to do.... going in tomorrow morning $465 is with parts and labor. What do you guys think of the price?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Jashan90

So just noticed a lot of howling noise coming from the back. Turns out I have a bad rear bearing. After reading a ton I'm sad to say that this is one task I will leave for my Indy to do.... going in tomorrow morning $465 is with parts and labor. What do you guys think of the price?

You better get both done for that price. $465 for one. No way. I'd do it myself if that's the case. Wheel bearings should be done in pairs, IMO.

[smass]

For reference I paid $80 just for the part and it took several hours to press it out and back in. It was the hardest wheel bearing I have ever done. I just did one side 8 years ago at 30k miles and the other is still fine at 150k.

The tone ring for the speed sensor is integrated in one side of the bearing. Make sure your shop presses it in the correct way or they will be doing the job a 2nd time.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You better get both done for that price. $465 for one. No way. I'd do it myself if that's the case. Wheel bearings should be done in pairs, IMO.

Wheel bearings are independent parts, and do not rely on each other unlike suspension components. You can replace just one if you'd like. The worst case scenario is the other one wears out and makes noise. You have a large buffer zone between loud noises and complete failure; many years, even.

If you planned on replacing both, I would obtain the tools to do it, as it would then be worth DIYing. The tools themselves are specialty and somewhat expensive for one-time use, but will save you money over paying someone to do both.

There are some risks, such as being unable to press out the bearing. In that case, you will need to remove the knuckle and use a large press. You can obtain those at Harbor Freight for about $100-$150.

Given the difficulty and parts required to replace one bearing, I would pay a shop to do it (unless my car was not my DD, then I'd do it for fun).

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

Wheel bearings are independent parts, and do not rely on each other unlike suspension components. You can replace just one if you'd like. The worst case scenario is the other one wears out and makes noise. You have a large buffer zone between loud noises and complete failure; many years, even.

If you planned on replacing both, I would obtain the tools to do it, as it would then be worth DIYing. The tools themselves are specialty and somewhat expensive for one-time use, but will save you money over paying someone to do both.

There are some risks, such as being unable to press out the bearing. In that case, you will need to remove the knuckle and use a large press. You can obtain those at Harbor Freight for about $100-$150.

My thought process was that once one goes, the likelihood of the other one not far behind is pretty good. Especially, if you are over 100,000 miles.

[mecheng77]

You definitely do not need to do it in pairs, especially given the difficulty.

[BimmerNugget]

$465 is way too high for parts and labor. Get the bearing from RockAuto and rent a bearing puller from AutoZone for free. I just changed wheel bearings on a 14' Honda CRV, cost me $75 in parts and 1.5 hours labor.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by BimmerNugget

$465 is way too high for parts and labor. Get the bearing from RockAuto and rent a bearing puller from AutoZone for free. I just changed wheel bearings on a 14' Honda CRV, cost me $75 in parts and 1.5 hours labor.

It depends if the OP lives in the Mid-West or North-East and or a state that uses SALT on the roads in the winter months. a rear bearing could be a MAJOR PITA, if that's the case. This is why I strongly suggest to bite the bullet and do BOTH while your in there. If one goes, the other one isn't far behind.

I agree, I wouldn't pay $465 for one bearing.

Kroil Oil, torch, air powered torque gun, DOING YOUR RESEARCH, renting/ buying the RIGHT tools, having a torque rated 36mm socket would be huge to getting this DIY with the least amount of agony possible.

There are a few DIYs on this forum and YouTube for this particular DIY. Each one uses different types of tools. So, you would need to determine which tools suits your needs and thought process.

I would think in addition to an air powered torque gun, a battery powered one would be beneficial as well.

[BimmerNugget]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

It depends if the OP lives in the Mid-West or North-East and or a state that uses SALT on the roads in the winter months. a rear bearing could be a MAJOR PITA, if that's the case. This is why I strongly suggest to bite the bullet and do BOTH while your in there. If one goes, the other one isn't far behind.

I agree, I wouldn't pay $465 for one bearing.

Kroil Oil, torch, air powered torque gun, DOING YOUR RESEARCH, renting/ buying the RIGHT tools, having a torque rated 36mm socket would be huge to getting this DIY with the least amount of agony possible.

There are a few DIYs on this forum and YouTube for this particular DIY. Each one uses different types of tools. So, you would need to determine which tools suits your needs and thought process.

I would think in addition to an air powered torque gun, a battery powered one would be beneficial as well.

oh yeah, I forgot to mention. Had to get a giant socket 32mm I think? Not sure about the size for the E90. I used a electric impact and a 25 inch harbor freight breaker bar to get it off.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by BimmerNugget

oh yeah, I forgot to mention. Had to get a giant socket 32mm I think? Not sure about the size for the E90. I used a electric impact and a 25 inch harbor freight breaker bar to get it off.

I think you need a 36mm for the e90.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Jashan90

So just noticed a lot of howling noise coming from the back. Turns out I have a bad rear bearing. After reading a ton I'm sad to say that this is one task I will leave for my Indy to do.... going in tomorrow morning $465 is with parts and labor. What do you guys think of the price?

This is really good video

[Jashan90]

I've looked up all videos and context. The car is my DD and usually I do all repairs myself but I live in California and the prices are high here. However I have a really trustee Indy that only works on bmws and minis. I can try and haggle with them on the price but I believe the parts are around 100 and then it's all labor from there. Given it's a PITA to do the rear bearing on bmws I decided to let my Indy take this one for me... thanks for the input!

[Psyphertext]

Are you folks doing wheel bearings when you replace rotors? I have always packed bearings in older vehicles at the time of rotor servicing. Given these are self contained, will it still makes sense to follow that as a basic protocol?

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by Psyphertext

Are you folks doing wheel bearings when you replace rotors? I have always packed bearings in older vehicles at the time of rotor servicing. Given these are self contained, will it still makes sense to follow that as a basic protocol?

Doing a bearing when you do rotors ? what, why would you do that ?

This is not just a hub replacement you have to press the bearings out its ALOT of work.. but the rotor is so easy these two jobs dont compare..

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Jashan90

I've looked up all videos and context. The car is my DD and usually I do all repairs myself but I live in California and the prices are high here. However I have a really trustee Indy that only works on bmws and minis. I can try and haggle with them on the price but I believe the parts are around 100 and then it's all labor from there. Given it's a PITA to do the rear bearing on bmws I decided to let my Indy take this one for me... thanks for the input!

If yours has been a California car it's whole life, there really shouldn't be any rust on the car what so ever. The videos I sent you would do you well. Pressing the bearing in and out, isn't the problem with this DIY. It's the rust and frozen bolts and what not that make a DIY like this a real B@tch.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ar-33416762321

You are probably looking at $150.00 in parts for both rear wheel bearings.

[GoRomeo]

Originally Posted by Jashan90

So just noticed a lot of howling noise coming from the back. Turns out I have a bad rear bearing. After reading a ton I'm sad to say that this is one task I will leave for my Indy to do.... going in tomorrow morning $465 is with parts and labor. What do you guys think of the price?

How many miles? Yeah $465 its a little stiff... shop around, should be no more than $250 per side including parts and labor.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Psyphertext

Are you folks doing wheel bearings when you replace rotors? I have always packed bearings in older vehicles at the time of rotor servicing. Given these are self contained, will it still makes sense to follow that as a basic protocol?

Nope. No need to repack the bearings with new bearing grease. They are sealed.

[Psyphertext]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Nope. No need to repack the bearings with new bearing grease. They are sealed.

Yep, that is what I said...self contained. My point was if one should change wheel bearings when doing the rotors. I have 68K on my 09 and I am forward planning upkeep repairs.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Jashan90

I've looked up all videos and context. The car is my DD and usually I do all repairs myself but I live in California and the prices are high here. However I have a really trustee Indy that only works on bmws and minis. I can try and haggle with them on the price but I believe the parts are around 100 and then it's all labor from there. Given it's a PITA to do the rear bearing on bmws I decided to let my Indy take this one for me... thanks for the input!

I think this is a wise choice. You cannot remove and install the bearing without the Harbor Frieght bearing tools. E9X bearings can be a royal PIA. If one of the axles is corroded into the hub flange, then it's SOL time and King Pain In The Ass has come to F with you (I speak from experience...). Sounds like your Indy is charging 3 hours labor. I'd say that's reasonable considering what can happen with corrosion.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by Psyphertext

Yep, that is what I said...self contained. My point was if one should change wheel bearings when doing the rotors. I have 68K on my 09 and I am forward planning upkeep repairs.

The sealed bearings can last literally hundreds of thousands of miles. It is good practice with BMWs to replace rotors when the brake pads are spent. The rotors are slip-on rotors, so there is no direct mechanical interface between the rotor and wheel bearing. The rotors BMW uses for the factory build of the car are somewhat soft cast iron and usually do not last through the second set of pads and go beyond the minimum thickness spec. That has been my experience with the several BMW 3-series I've owned over the past several decades.