[DanT81]

Purchased a 2008 328i a couple months ago and everything seemed great until I took it in for an oil change and brake fluid flush. The dealer told me before I bought it that they had changed the oil filter housing gasket and for the first couple days I did notice a faint oil smell but that went away, nothing else was out of the ordinary and it ran smooth as butter, I drove it everyday for 2 months. Took it to an indy shop and when I went to pick it up he told me the valve cover gasket is leaking which is causing the small misstep right after starting the car (the tac bounces up a few hundred rpm then settles back down), said it was due to vacuum loss from the valvetronic system. He also told me he thinks my oil level sensor is bad since after they put in the standard 6.5L of oil it hadn't moved so he said they put more in and it still didn't move... I have since seen a couple drops of oil where I park (very little) and it takes an extra crank or 2 to start now... the car ran perfect going in and now it has a missfire and leaks, not to mention the grease stains they left all over the door and handle as well as the shifter...

I'm in southern Ontario Canada, near Oshawa, and was hoping someone might recommend a good Indy around here as well as a good spot/website for ordering parts, I'm going to replace the oil level sensor myself so I can measure exactly how much oil they did put in, he said only an extra half litre but there is no way I can trust anything he said at this point since when I asked he said he wasn't sure if the oil sensor was integral to the oil pan or external, it's only a few inches from the drain plug how the hell couldn't he have seen it...

thanks in advance for any help

[mecheng77]

I have the same condition, only when the car is cold, but it lasts only 1-2 seconds and no codes.
It started happening after I changed my starter so I thought it was maybe the new intake manifold gasket, it was a quality aftermarket Febi. The bolts are all tight but they are small so I didn’t want to overtorque them. It doesn’t show codes.

Do you see oil from the valve gasket? It could be the oil pan gasket.

[DanT81]

Yeah you can see the oil from the valve cover gasket, he sent me a picture when he was inspecting the car, I don't have it on my computer at the moment though.

today on the way home the check engine light came on and a very rough idle at stop lights and shaky when accelerating. I was on the highway when the light came on but it didn't feel rough until I got off the highway.

[GoRomeo]

Read code if you have a code reader. It could also a bad coil. Have you replaced them?

[DanT81]

I didn't think my code reader would work for the bmw but I just checked and it's P0304 (cylinder 4 misfire detected) and it was under pending codes. I doubt the coils have been done, I've only had the car about 9 weeks though.

[Zarrachan]

Originally Posted by DanT81

Yeah you can see the oil from the valve cover gasket, he sent me a picture when he was inspecting the car, I don't have it on my computer at the moment though.

today on the way home the check engine light came on and a very rough idle at stop lights and shaky when accelerating. I was on the highway when the light came on but it didn't feel rough until I got off the highway.

+1

[nsjames]

the valvetronic system is not vacuum operated, and really has nothing vacuum related attached.

it is possible that a cracked valve cover can cause a vacuum leak.
or that the valvetronic eccentric shaft sensor needs replacement.

since the DME has picked cyl #4, I'd swap it's coil with Cyl #1 and see if the fault follows the parts.
then do the same with the injector.

I'd probably smoke test the manifold to see if there's a leak somewhere.

[DanT81]

Originally Posted by nsjames

the valvetronic system is not vacuum operated, and really has nothing vacuum related attached.

it is possible that a cracked valve cover can cause a vacuum leak.
or that the valvetronic eccentric shaft sensor needs replacement.

since the DME has picked cyl #4, I'd swap it's coil with Cyl #1 and see if the fault follows the parts.
then do the same with the injector.

I'd probably smoke test the manifold to see if there's a leak somewhere.

I just finished watching a couple videos about switching the coils and plugs and it seems easy enough, I'm going to try that tomorrow after work weather permitting, of course we're expecting thunderstorms all week...

I appreciate everyone's help and advice, been a really stressful week

[GATORB8]

If your VCG is leaking into a spark plug well, it can foul the coil. You'll be able to tell from the oil on the back side of the plug.

I've done it a couple times, but did my coils and plugs in less than an hour tonight after work.

Once you get the cowl and engine cover off, you can swap the coils like nsjames recommended and take it for a quick spin to make sure the code moves confirming its a coil issue. You can leave the cowl and engine cover off until you're sure you've fixed the problem.

Make sure you have the right spark plug socket (not sure on your N52, but N54 are 12 point). If you don't get the extended socket (not just deep well), make sure you have a pair of long needle nose pliers to pull the socket off the new plug on reinstall.

[Efthreeoh]

Your indy mechanic doesn't know what he's doing. The e-dipstick doesn't "move" right after an oil change and the oil level is checked. It takes a drive cycle for the CBS to update the oil level. Hopefully they didn't overfill the engine.

Hardly anyone understands how the e-dipstick works. Many people think it is faulty just because they really don't understand how it actually works. I'd be happy to reprise how it works if one of the moderators wants to make a sticky out of it.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by nsjames

the valvetronic system is not vacuum operated, and really has nothing vacuum related attached.

it is possible that a cracked valve cover can cause a vacuum leak.
or that the valvetronic eccentric shaft sensor needs replacement.

since the DME has picked cyl #4, I'd swap it's coil with Cyl #1 and see if the fault follows the parts.
then do the same with the injector.

I'd probably smoke test the manifold to see if there's a leak somewhere.

I think this is a good diagnosis. I was considering the indy was possibly referring to the fact that BMW Valvetronic engines do not create manifold vacuum pressure like normal engines do due to the lack of a throttle plate. The N52 because it has Valvetronic, has a vacuum pump, it's near the alternator, which creates engine vacuum for the systems that require vacuum to operate. However, since the indy sounds like a complete dumbass (when it comes to BMWs at least) he probably doesn't understand the vacuum system of the N52.

[DanT81]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I think this is a good diagnosis. I was considering the indy was possibly referring to the fact that BMW Valvetronic engines do not create manifold vacuum pressure like normal engines do due to the lack of a throttle plate. The N52 because it has Valvetronic, has a vacuum pump, it's near the alternator, which creates engine vacuum for the systems that require vacuum to operate. However, since the indy sounds like a complete dumbass (when it comes to BMWs at least) he probably doesn't understand the vacuum system of the N52.

ya I believe I misquoted the mechanic, he mentioned about vacuum loss from the valve cover and that can affect the vacuum pressure. think I confused myself after looking stuff up.

I just switched coil 4 for coil 1 and it still idles rough but after a few laps around the block the engine light hasn't come back on yet so not sure if the problem moved with the coil or not. the plug tubes look squeaky clean though. I may just go pickup a new coil and plug and see what happens.

he also said the oil level sensor didn't move from center when they were filling it but when I check it shows right at max so it may actually be working, one thing at a time I guess lol.

[Pladi]

Originally Posted by DanT81

Purchased a 2008 328i a couple months ago and everything seemed great until I took it in for an oil change and brake fluid flush. The dealer told me before I bought it that they had changed the oil filter housing gasket and for the first couple days I did notice a faint oil smell but that went away, nothing else was out of the ordinary and it ran smooth as butter, I drove it everyday for 2 months. Took it to an indy shop and when I went to pick it up he told me the valve cover gasket is leaking which is causing the small misstep right after starting the car (the tac bounces up a few hundred rpm then settles back down), said it was due to vacuum loss from the valvetronic system. He also told me he thinks my oil level sensor is bad since after they put in the standard 6.5L of oil it hadn't moved so he said they put more in and it still didn't move... I have since seen a couple drops of oil where I park (very little) and it takes an extra crank or 2 to start now... the car ran perfect going in and now it has a missfire and leaks, not to mention the grease stains they left all over the door and handle as well as the shifter...

I'm in southern Ontario Canada, near Oshawa, and was hoping someone might recommend a good Indy around here as well as a good spot/website for ordering parts, I'm going to replace the oil level sensor myself so I can measure exactly how much oil they did put in, he said only an extra half litre but there is no way I can trust anything he said at this point since when I asked he said he wasn't sure if the oil sensor was integral to the oil pan or external, it's only a few inches from the drain plug how the hell couldn't he have seen it...

thanks in advance for any help

The oil level sensor takes some time to adjust. If you put 6.5 L it will take a few drive cycles to see the change.. the fact that the indy shop didnt know that is a reason not to go back there. And the fact they didnt see the sensor..

Toronto and Kitchener/waterloo i know where you can go but not sure for oshawa

[e90yyc]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

I have the same condition, only when the car is cold, but it lasts only 1-2 seconds and no codes.
It started happening after I changed my starter so I thought it was maybe the new intake manifold gasket, it was a quality aftermarket Febi. The bolts are all tight but they are small so I didn’t want to overtorque them. It doesn’t show codes.

Do you see oil from the valve gasket? It could be the oil pan gasket.

When you say you “have the same condition,” are you referring to a slight fluctuation in RPM’s on cold start?

Also have this issue. Don’t recall it always being present. Valve cover has been done but probably 100,000+ km’s ago, so I’m guessing it’s possible replacement has a crack.

Anyway don’t mean to derail the thread. Just curious about your post. Thx

+1 on oil level sensor being fine as well. If it’s bad you should see a code too, from what I recall...

[DanT81]

sigh... engine light finally came back on, still misfiring on cylinder 4 and now I also get P1415...
guess it's public transit to work today...

[Bimmer Pleaser]

Originally Posted by DanT81

sigh... engine light finally came back on, still misfiring on cylinder 4 and now I also get P1415...
guess it's public transit to work today...

Was the coil oily? Misfire #4 is probably the result of a leaking VCG. Oil is leaking into the spark plug well resulting in misfire. For some reason, gasket near cylinder #4 is the weakest link (could be due to eccentric shaft servo).

I can almost promise you that a VCG replacement will fix all your problems. 4 hour job, relative easy if you know what you're doing.

[Pladi]

Replacing coils and plugs is a very simple job with these cars.. spend some time remove the coils and plugs and see if you find them soaked in oil. Esp number 4 then you know for sure what you need to do. Replacing a valve cover gasket is not bad too..

[rick100]

I would suggest posting your question on the canadian regional forum of the e90

I know 3 places are very popular in the west end of the city

RMP motors - Very hard to get an appointment , prices are great, great work . The owner and his brother ran the place . They ll fix it for you but communication may be hard as only 2 people work there

Yvo at columbus - Great customer service, very easy to communicate , great mechanic , I did find his pricing to be a little bit higher than RMP , however I like how easy going the owner is and how you can text him . Also easier to get an appointment as the owner has 3 or 4 mechanics

KTM motorworks - I have not been here , but I just like the time they take to talk to you on the phone , explain things, pricing, etc etc . They have great reviews all around , pricing seems fair too. Its also easier to get an appoinment here

All these places are located close to the airport , so its a place where you may have to just leave the car and come back another day to pick it up

[DanT81]

I only checked 2 of the coils this morning before work (4 and 1) but they were both dry and clean and the plug tubes were spotless with no sign of oil in them at all. It's at 154k km so it's about due for plugs anyway, was going to do that after work. BMW dealer in ajax just quoted me $1300 for the valve cover gasket and new plugs so not quite as bad as I was expecting. I've done some work on cars but I tend to stay away from the engine and transmission stuff, most complicated thing I've done is swapping a radiator and the front wheel hubs on my old grand prix gt. I'm a little nervous to expose internal components of the engine, especially since I'd have to do it in the parking lot of my building.
Could all this be causing the air pump code you think, I also left the cabin filter cowling out so the air sensors are just tucked out of the way at the moment. And another likely stupid question but can I even drive it to a shop like this (25 min) or is it tow only?

Thanks Rick I will look up those shops and make a few calls, I feel a little more relaxed knowing the stealer is only 1300 as that's usually the worst case pricing and I can get that down by doing the plugs myself. I don't mind leaving it since I already took the dam bus to work today lol.

[Bimmer Pleaser]

Originally Posted by DanT81

I only checked 2 of the coils this morning before work (4 and 1) but they were both dry and clean and the plug tubes were spotless with no sign of oil in them at all. It's at 154k km so it's about due for plugs anyway, was going to do that after work. BMW dealer in ajax just quoted me $1300 for the valve cover gasket and new plugs so not quite as bad as I was expecting. I've done some work on cars but I tend to stay away from the engine and transmission stuff, most complicated thing I've done is swapping a radiator and the front wheel hubs on my old grand prix gt. I'm a little nervous to expose internal components of the engine, especially since I'd have to do it in the parking lot of my building.
Could all this be causing the air pump code you think, I also left the cabin filter cowling out so the air sensors are just tucked out of the way at the moment. And another likely stupid question but can I even drive it to a shop like this (25 min) or is it tow only?

Thanks Rick I will look up those shops and make a few calls, I feel a little more relaxed knowing the stealer is only 1300 as that's usually the worst case pricing and I can get that down by doing the plugs myself. I don't mind leaving it since I already took the dam bus to work today lol.

Stay away from the dealer. Take it to a reputable indie.

Also, before taking off the valve cover I recommend doing a quick compression test on #4. Someone might want to correct me but I think driving it for a while should be ok. Pretty sure fuel will not get in the CAT because the ECU senses misfire and cuts fuel to the cylinder.

[nsjames]

if you don't have a flashing engine light, it will drive fine 25 miles.

I would replace the plugs before I took it anywhere. You have no idea how old they are, and it's possible that the plug on #4 has a cracked insulator or some other issue.

it's an easy job. My N52 did not need the fancy 12 point socket.

[DanT81]

Originally Posted by nsjames

if you don't have a flashing engine light, it will drive fine 25 miles.

I would replace the plugs before I took it anywhere. You have no idea how old they are, and it's possible that the plug on #4 has a cracked insulator or some other issue.

it's an easy job. My N52 did not need the fancy 12 point socket.

yeah the engine light isn't flashing and the car doesn't feel bad at speed, only when it's idling, I plan on leaving extra early to avoid most of the traffic jams for rush hour so less running time, tomorrow is the big day... I was planning on doing the plugs myself but I work odd hours and we've been getting a lot of rain this week and I have to do it outdoors so it's been tough. I already told the service advisor that if they don't 100% suspect the plugs causing the issue to leave them alone and I'll do it right after I pick up the car on monday. I'm certain they're going to do them anyway lol.

I will post an update once I get the call after they run their diagnostics and when I get the car back in case anyone is curious how things turn out.

I appreciate everyone who took the time to help me out here, seems like a very helpful forum