[Yozh]

I feel the same for the injector puller. At $30 it was a no brained and worked well on the #6

[Kozlio]

So how much should I expect to pay for the vcg job at an Indy? I see the part is $89 at aarodriguez. I saw $1,200 being quoted by a dealer in one of the posts above so I figure max half price at Indy.... what’s yr experience or recommend dyi. I’m with a x5d.
I changed the vcg on my e46 with my dad a few years back. Recall the back bolts were hard to reach and took us a whole afternoon following “bs corner’s” instructions on YouTube

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by Kozlio

So how much should I expect to pay for the vcg job at an Indy? I see the part is $89 at aarodriguez. I saw $1,200 being quoted by a dealer in one of the posts above so I figure max half price at Indy.... what’s yr experience or recommend dyi. I’m with a x5d.
I changed the vcg on my e46 with my dad a few years back. Recall the back bolts were hard to reach and took us a whole afternoon following “bs corner’s” instructions on YouTube

If you think an e46 vcg is a bitch. Dont attempt. You need to remove the intake manifold, injectors with a slide hammer and then the fun getting it started after
.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by Kozlio

So how much should I expect to pay for the vcg job at an Indy? I see the part is $89 at aarodriguez. I saw $1,200 being quoted by a dealer in one of the posts above so I figure max half price at Indy.... what’s yr experience or recommend dyi. I’m with a x5d.
I changed the vcg on my e46 with my dad a few years back. Recall the back bolts were hard to reach and took us a whole afternoon following “bs corner’s” instructions on YouTube

If you follow the above posted instructions, you should be able to do it yourself if you're mechanically inclined. It's no so much hard as it is tedious. Replacing the valve cover and gasket on my 335D was the first DIY repair I did myself and it turned out fine. Just make sure to read all the suggestions in all the posts on this thread to make your life easier.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by 335dlci

If you think an e46 vcg is a bitch. Dont attempt. You need to remove the intake manifold, injectors with a slide hammer and then the fun getting it started after
.

Either I got lucky or bleeding the fuel system of air pockets being a PITA is being blown out of proportion. I did it twice without any software related help and the car started up without much of an issue.

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Either I got lucky or bleeding the fuel system of air pockets being a PITA is being blown out of proportion. I did it twice without any software related help and the car started up without much of an issue.

How did you bleed your system?

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by robnitro

How did you bleed your system?

IIRC, the first time around (when replacing the valve cover and gasket) my mechanic and I just unscrewed the fuel line from the injectors to get all the air out. Didnt take long for the car to start after that. The second time around was when I did my engine swap. Just let the engine crank a few times and it fired right up (similar to what you'd expect on a gas engine).

Now, whether this is the right process and safe process is up for debate. Just wanted to chime in an point out its completely possible to do without the software and can be relatively painless in some circumstances.

[robnitro]

The software bleeds the inj pump and fuel filter, which isn't emptied by the injector removal. Air is in the line that goes to the injectors and air in the injectors themselves.

I guess common rail bleeds easier. My tdi with rotary pump was a bitch to bleed after nozzles changed.

I don't see any harm there since the inj pump is not dry. How much cranking did you have to do?

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by robnitro

The software bleeds the inj pump and fuel filter, which isn't emptied by the injector removal. Air is in the line that goes to the injectors and air in the injectors themselves.

I guess common rail bleeds easier. My tdi with rotary pump was a bitch to bleed after nozzles changed.

I don't see any harm there since the inj pump is not dry. How much cranking did you have to do?

Good to know, thanks for the insight. I'd say that both times it took around 5, maybe 6 cycles of the ignition. I'm a little hazy on the exact amount of times I had to try since it's been a while since I did it. But I do remember it didn't give me much of an issue either time.

[itsbrokeagain]

new turbos are in on my truck and the smoking stopped. The oil drains were clogged up solid, so all the oil was pushing out the seals and into the exhaust.

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by apexit4

IIRC, the first time around (when replacing the valve cover and gasket) my mechanic and I just unscrewed the fuel line from the injectors to get all the air out.

Just like every old diesel out there. That is how I did mine at first. It fired but then was air bound again. I jumped the pump under the seat, that seemed to do the trick as it was fine after that (also re bled the lines after that)

I am doing mine again here shortly, so I can report back again.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

Just like every old diesel out there. That is how I did mine at first. It fired but then was air bound again. I jumped the pump under the seat, that seemed to do the trick as it was fine after that (also re bled the lines after that)

I am doing mine again here shortly, so I can report back again.

Keep us posted, although I suspect you wont have much of an issue.

What do you mean by jumping the pump under the seat? Is that a reference to the E90 or another diesel of yours?

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by apexit4

Keep us posted, although I suspect you wont have much of an issue.

What do you mean by jumping the pump under the seat? Is that a reference to the E90 or another diesel of yours?

E90- The low pressure pump, under the ps of the rear seat. Very easy to access.

[apexit4]

Originally Posted by DozerDan82

E90- The low pressure pump, under the ps of the rear seat. Very easy to access.

Ahhh, I should have known. For some reason my mind defaulted to the front seats which had me puzzled

[DozerDan82]

Originally Posted by Yozh

I feel the same for the injector puller. At $30 it was a no brained and worked well on the #6

I made an adapter for the slide hammer. In this case I borrowed one from work bc I could not find a 5/8-18 tap to make one for my slide hammer, and a co worker had one with a M16 end. We have all metric bolts so finding an M16 and a M14x1.5 nut was easy, 30 seconds on the melting machine and done.

Worked like a charm.

Also - realized that you can use a 12 17mm to remove the injector side of the fuel lines. Remove the lines from the rail side, you can 'move' them enough to sneak the box end of the 17mm onto them, then it fits the injector side just fine. My flare wrench was too thick to fit, and the open end did not align right. I was going to turn my 12pt box wrench into a flare wrench but tried this first. Done and done

[robnitro]

Yep i did similar with the nuts but used threaded rod and a heavy large socket as my weight.
I have 2 threaded rods, one is longer and curved a bit for injector 6 , so I didn't have to remove the plastic bits to get to that one.

[DG330]

Originally Posted by itsbrokeagain

new turbos are in on my truck and the smoking stopped. The oil drains were clogged up solid, so all the oil was pushing out the seals and into the exhaust.

Was it noticeable? What were the symptoms of clogged drain pipes?

[MrSweet1991]

I did a write-up after doing mine with links to tools and NewTis documents that some people may find useful

e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1491121

[007_e350]

Originally Posted by itsbrokeagain

new turbos are in on my truck and the smoking stopped. The oil drains were clogged up solid, so all the oil was pushing out the seals and into the exhaust.

What was your OCI ?