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      04-25-2019, 01:26 PM   #45
mweisdorfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byte[
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Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I have 162,000. Never changed the center bearing or guido. If were to do a Guido, I'd look into the 335is version.

If you really think it's the guido & center bearing vs the solenoids, go for it.

Worse case, you end up with a new guido, center bearing & new solenoids in the tranny.

Long term ownership would benefit from both being done.

Do you have a code for your low coolant light ?

I'd try to topping off the reserve tank & running the bubble purge system. (Turning the heat up to 84 on level 1, & pressing the pedal down for 12 seconds until you hear the pump). Use a battery charger of course.
i have done the bleed process and i do have a code for my coolant. it’s a water pump code, 2e85 2e83 i believe. i know the pump has recently been done too. this car actually has all sorts of electrical ”issues” along with those codes. i get taillight malfunctions a bunch. i also sometimes get “passenger seatbelt malfunction”, and i recently got low beam malfunction along with my fog lights not turning on/off anymore! sucks because my xenons aren’t doing the best job at lighting up and that’s what i’d use to see. i think i definitely have a bad ground somewhere.

id also inspect the “giubo” and csb before replacing it without a doubt, but after last nights transmission code im sure there’s a bigger problem here. hopefully that problem is solenoids and not toasted clutch plates.
I'd say you have a JBE module or Power Distribution Module issues. Try and update them with WinKFP and the latest Datens.
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      04-25-2019, 02:28 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
I'd say you have a JBE module or Power Distribution Module issues. Try and update them with WinKFP and the latest Datens.
This is a little out of my comfort zone as I've never toyed with WinKFP but I will try to play around and see if I can figure out how to update it.
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      04-25-2019, 04:13 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Not true. You can flush the entire system (even the torque converter) through the trans cooler line

I highly doubt the trans is toast. BMW ZF trans are very stout. You rarely hear about one going bad.

If it were me, I'd start with the rubber sleeves & the rubber square bushing in the trans and "maybe" redo the solenoids. There's a nice DIY on YouTube on this process.

But the OP mentioned Wheel Hop. So, I immediately thought of Differential & subframe bushings in rear.
Interesting on trans cooler line, do you have any more info on that? As for changing fluid, I was referring to just regular flush and fill which is like 5 quarts or so.

For trans being toast, mine slipped a few times (only MHD stage 1+), and after changing fluid it still slipped for few weeks, but now it does not slip anymore, although I'm sure damage is already done.
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      04-25-2019, 04:58 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by litxus View Post
Interesting on trans cooler line, do you have any more info on that? As for changing fluid, I was referring to just regular flush and fill which is like 5 quarts or so.

For trans being toast, mine slipped a few times (only MHD stage 1+), and after changing fluid it still slipped for few weeks, but now it does not slip anymore, although I'm sure damage is already done.
wait, you're saying your trans stopped slipping when you changed fluid? That's really odd, it's supposed to be the other way around.
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      04-25-2019, 09:00 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by byte[] View Post
So last night I reset adaptations with INPA. This morning I went to go drive the car. The first thing I immediately noticed is the car takes a good 2-3 seconds to "fully" shift into drive/reverse. It's almost like you feel it immediately, but then a good 2-3 seconds after it "thunks" into gear. It does this hot and cold. Does this sound like solenoids? My biggest concern is to replace the solenoids and gaskets and fluid just to keep slipping and find out the clutch packs are toast from the bad solenoids.
For the next reader: resetting the transmission with INPA is a mistake, do not touch that button. This will not only reset the 'adaptations' for driving style etc, but also the factory calibration for the unit. You will have to follow a long and not easy to perform (on the open road) relearn procedure to readapt the computer to the specificities of the mechanical unit.

Most rough shifting can be traced to
1. underfilled trans, redo the filling procedure (exactly as described on the ZF documentation, no guess work or half-assed approximation)
2. bad gaskets between the mechatronics, solenoids and the main unit. There are a bunch (6?) round bushes and 2 square bushes between the mechatronic unit and the main body of the trans. Any one failed will not permit pressure to build appropriately
3. bad solenoid(s), not as common, rather expensive, look at replacing them if nothing else works
4. damaged clutch, very uncommon except if you keep driving the slipping trans for a long time (i.e. not fixing the oil-pressure related issues above). Not sure if worth doing rather than swapping the unit.
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      04-26-2019, 05:47 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litxus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Not true. You can flush the entire system (even the torque converter) through the trans cooler line

I highly doubt the trans is toast. BMW ZF trans are very stout. You rarely hear about one going bad.

If it were me, I'd start with the rubber sleeves & the rubber square bushing in the trans and "maybe" redo the solenoids. There's a nice DIY on YouTube on this process.

But the OP mentioned Wheel Hop. So, I immediately thought of Differential & subframe bushings in rear.
Interesting on trans cooler line, do you have any more info on that? As for changing fluid, I was referring to just regular flush and fill which is like 5 quarts or so.

For trans being toast, mine slipped a few times (only MHD stage 1+), and after changing fluid it still slipped for few weeks, but now it does not slip anymore, although I'm sure damage is already done.
You need this tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VI9P62..._32TWCbD5MJ2J5

1) Drain & Change the pan filter as usual.
2) fill pan filter
3) Take a see through, plastic container & mark put 3qts on it with a marker (measure first & then mark)
4) take the engine fan out for more room
5) use tool to unhook the return line from the transmission. If you are unsure, run the car for 5 min. It will be warm, where the other one will not.
6) securely put the open trans line into the see through container. Have someone start the car. When 3 quarts empties into the container shut the car off.
7) put 3 quarts of new fluid into the pan filter
8) repeat process until the fluid coming out of the trans is bright red. (Probably about 3x)
9) on your last fill, do the process of filling the pan filter & then running the car through the gears & doing a final fill between 90 & 120 degrees until the fluid starts to run out of the fill hole.

You will probably need 12-14qts
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      04-26-2019, 12:06 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byte[] View Post
wait, you're saying your trans stopped slipping when you changed fluid? That's really odd, it's supposed to be the other way around.
Yes, initially it had 0 effect, but after a month or so driving (I drive very few miles a day like 10), it stopped. Before if I floor it in 2nd gear or so, sometimes it would jump to 6 (have xhp flash). I had no issues recently even when going WOT.
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      04-26-2019, 12:12 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
You need this tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VI9P62..._32TWCbD5MJ2J5

1) Drain & Change the pan filter as usual.
2) fill pan filter
3) Take a see through, plastic container & mark put 3qts on it with a marker (measure first & then mark)
4) take the engine fan out for more room
5) use tool to unhook the return line from the transmission. If you are unsure, run the car for 5 min. It will be warm, where the other one will not.
6) securely put the open trans line into the see through container. Have someone start the car. When 3 quarts empties into the container shut the car off.
7) put 3 quarts of new fluid into the pan filter
8) repeat process until the fluid coming out of the trans is bright red. (Probably about 3x)
9) on your last fill, do the process of filling the pan filter & then running the car through the gears & doing a final fill between 90 & 120 degrees until the fluid starts to run out of the fill hole.

You will probably need 12-14qts
Thanks, I was hoping where I could just start the car and have old fluid out from one end and new in the other one, but your method seems to be more efficient as you are doing from 2 points at same time.
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      04-26-2019, 01:56 PM   #53
mweisdorfer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by litxus View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
You need this tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VI9P62..._32TWCbD5MJ2J5

1) Drain & Change the pan filter as usual.
2) fill pan filter
3) Take a see through, plastic container & mark put 3qts on it with a marker (measure first & then mark)
4) take the engine fan out for more room
5) use tool to unhook the return line from the transmission. If you are unsure, run the car for 5 min. It will be warm, where the other one will not.
6) securely put the open trans line into the see through container. Have someone start the car. When 3 quarts empties into the container shut the car off.
7) put 3 quarts of new fluid into the pan filter
8) repeat process until the fluid coming out of the trans is bright red. (Probably about 3x)
9) on your last fill, do the process of filling the pan filter & then running the car through the gears & doing a final fill between 90 & 120 degrees until the fluid starts to run out of the fill hole.

You will probably need 12-14qts
Thanks, I was hoping where I could just start the car and have old fluid out from one end and new in the other one, but your method seems to be more efficient as you are doing from 2 points at same time.
Yes, the car takes the trans oil from the pan sucking into the torque converter. The oil from the torque converter then gets sent to the trans cooler to be cooled and the routes back into the torque converter.

So, if you take off the initial line going to the trans cooler coming from the trans (torque converter) you will be getting rid of all the crappy/ old oil in that torque converter.
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      04-26-2019, 04:08 PM   #54
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Does anybody know if the valve body from the 6hp21 and 6hp28 are for sure interchangeable? All the rebuilt valve bodies I see for sale seem to fit both, but I just want to be sure. I ask because I also plan on refreshing the valve body with the sonnax zip tie kit, along with the solenoids and gaskets. If it doesn't solve my problem I plan to upgrade to a 6hp28, but i just I would like to not throw 500 out the window and carry over the solenoids, gaskets, and zip tie to the 6hp28.

Also, sorry if this is a dumb question, but is there a difference between swapping with M-Shift and E-Shift? I figured out I have the M-shift but I was wondering if it the 6hp28 also has to be m-shift when I swap, that's all.

Last edited by byte[]; 04-26-2019 at 04:29 PM..
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