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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY: E90 Oil Pan Gasket and Subframe Drop
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11-05-2016, 06:37 PM | #111 | |
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12-22-2016, 04:29 PM | #114 | |
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Just wanted to add this for future DIY'ers, this works great especially in tight places. |
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12-22-2016, 06:05 PM | #115 | |
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But the oil return line connection is different. It is a quick disconnect kind and if going by book is supposed to be opened by placing a 1/2" quick disconnect tool inside and then pulling it up. (Talkin about metal valve cover N52s, year 06. Rest don't have this) Do you have manual transmission or automatic? Reason I am asking, if you have automatic, your engine oil pan is very likely a cast aluminum one. On those, the part of the tube that goes into the oil pan is a plastic one that is screwed into a hole on the oil pan. So instead of trying to disconnect that connection, you can unscrew that part of the tube that goes into the oil pan and remove the oil pan that way. If memory correct a 17mm open end wrench is needed. After you remove the oil pan, since you will have much more room, you can undo that connection much easier with the 1/2" disconnect tool. I have a post on which tool a few posts up. Then you can screw the lower plastic tube back into the oil pan while you have the oil pan out, and put the oil pan back, and snap that connection back in. It has an o-ring that seals it, it would be wise to buy one and replace. If you have manual transmission (and not XI) then you have press formed metal oil pan, and those have the lower tube made from metal and welded into the oil pan. So that won't work. You can still try to undo it with that disconnect tool. Or hit it with a big flat screw driver as Eftreeoh mentioned. I suggest place the disconnect tool in there pushed up, then hit it, it would come with less risk of damage. One suggestion, after you undo that connection, spray a good amount of electrical cleaner up that return line, the one that is coming down under the manifold. It has a ball operated check valve, and crud can make it not operating, this way you will clean it up. If it is clean you should be able to hear the ball moving around when you shake it. I suggest electrical cleaner not brake cleaner because brake cleaner does strange things to plastic. |
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12-23-2016, 06:08 AM | #116 | |
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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12-27-2016, 09:39 PM | #117 |
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Good deal, thanks for the info, anything to make this job easier is a huge plus. I have the 06 n52 with metal valve cover and automatic tranny so I should be able unscrew it as you described.
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02-02-2017, 01:33 PM | #118 |
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About to do the gasket change on my 2009 328i Coupe with 6 speed transmission and noticed the gasket has 29 bolt holes and the bolt package has 28 pieces as shown in this picture:
Is there an extra hole in the gasket that is not used? Inquiring minds want to know! |
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02-02-2017, 06:15 PM | #120 |
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02-19-2017, 01:42 PM | #121 |
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Thanks for the write up KrashFinatik, you are Absolutely right this job was a PIA. I did find that the rubber part of the gasket was a hard as a rock, leading to the leaks. I have nothing to add, it when just as you described . thanks again.
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02-21-2017, 07:33 AM | #122 |
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Thanks for your efforts on this write-up, KrashFinatik. I used this extensively in doing this job on my 2006 330i manual this past weekend. It has 101k miles and I purchased it with the pan leaking.
The only modifications to your steps that I had to employ were in order to get the subframe low enough to get the pan out from under the car. I had to also disconnect the swaybar from the subframe, the radiator plastic tube from the subframe, the steering column U-joint from the steering rack, and the wiring connector from the power steering pump. I also used a two-point engine support bar that I already owned as opposed to a three-point one and it worked superbly. I started this on Friday evening and finished Sunday afternoon. I probably spent 10 hours on this total with a helper. The hardest parts were disconnecting the oil separator return tube from the pan and figuring out how low the subframe needed to be in order to free the pan. I bought the AC/fuel line release tools from Harbor Freight, but they did nothing to help me. The thing that did the trick was a small pair of needle-nose pliers with angled tips inside the connector. Thanks again! |
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03-06-2017, 12:39 AM | #124 |
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Doing mine now and will have to disconnect a lot more items to get more room inside the engine compartment.
What really sucks is that I purchased a oil pan. And now that I am in there I see that all the JB-Weld that was used, was actually holding broken bolts in place and not cracks in the oil pan. No wonder the previous owner did not answer questions fully. Ah well, she still drove fine, just kept leaking more oil as months went on. I replaced the Eccentric Shaft sensor. Crank-shaft sensor connection was modded to stay in place ( I think they broke the bolt and jacked up the threads.) I still have to find the Active Steering Unit and replace it. (And no.. it's not under the car seats, nor in the foot wells (left and right). So now I am in the thought of selling the Oil Pan and using the old one, which so far looks fine. I still have to get to the 7 remaining bolts holding it in place on the drivers side... But going slow so far. Last edited by Engineer3D; 03-06-2017 at 12:46 AM.. |
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03-06-2017, 02:38 AM | #125 |
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03-06-2017, 10:11 AM | #126 |
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I grabbed my hook for the engine off ebay for $13.00
Missing a lot of accessories, but did have the Continental repair kit for run flats. That was about it. |
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03-11-2017, 08:02 AM | #127 | |
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It was a necessity to start this thread because I found a lot of fellow owners were having this problem but there wasn't a decent DIY available. The few that I found were cutting corners that would only lead to problems later, meaning you will only have to do the job again. I appreciate your comments. Thanks
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03-11-2017, 08:06 AM | #128 | |
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Not sure what pricing would be though.
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03-11-2017, 08:08 AM | #129 | |
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I'm surprised I didn't break it out of frustration. Glad to help.
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03-11-2017, 08:17 AM | #130 | |
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The guy I bought mine from seamed pretty shady now looking back in hindsight. I was blinded by how good the car looked, drove & had all these creature comforts. Coming from an '04 Honda Accord stars in my eyes blocked the faults. The 2 times I went to look at the car it was dark & he had just finished washing it (to hide the oil leak).
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03-11-2017, 08:23 AM | #131 | |
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