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      10-23-2013, 12:02 AM   #1
Synergy
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Long crank, not starting

I was driving my car and it felt like I ran out of gas - the car gradually slowed down (even with my foot on the accelerator) and came to a complete stop. Tried to start my car again and it wouldn't start. It cranks for about 5 seconds and does nothing, just keeps cranking.

The car does have gas (about 1/4 tank) and was running fine prior to that. No CEL came on, but my friend ran the INPA cable and showed the following errors, which I can Google translate to "crankshaft sensor" and "fuel pump". (Any German speakers are more than welcome to correct me). Details continued below the picture...



So I went ahead and ordered a new crankshaft position sensor, received it today and swapped it out. Tried to start my car and had the same result: long crank, but no start. I then plugged my OBDII scanner and it now reveals P0335, which is "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction". Any ideas of what else it could be?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
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      10-23-2013, 11:05 AM   #2
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You should of ruled out bad battery first before the crankshaft sensor since you said the car is cranking but won't start, this usually happens when it doesn't have enough power to turn on, try jump starting the car see if it will turn on.

Come back if it that doesn't work.
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      10-23-2013, 01:12 PM   #3
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Also check your essentric cam sensor for oil in the connector. Its easy to check if it has oil in it.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=697252
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      10-24-2013, 07:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
Also check your essentric cam sensor for oil in the connector. Its easy to check if it has oil in it.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=697252
Just checked it. It's dry. But thanks for the info, I had no idea this was a common problem.
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      10-24-2013, 07:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JS-NA.E92 View Post
You should of ruled out bad battery first before the crankshaft sensor since you said the car is cranking but won't start, this usually happens when it doesn't have enough power to turn on, try jump starting the car see if it will turn on.

Come back if it that doesn't work.
Battery was fully charged and still shows the same issue.

I ended up hooking up a fuel pressure tester to the fuel rail and it showed 0 psi, before and after cranking.

My goal for today is to spray some starting fluid directly into the throttle body while trying to start the car. If this works, I guess my fuel pump is bad. I can't near it priming, but I don't recall being able to hear it anyway. Our cars are too insulated :\
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      10-25-2013, 04:20 AM   #6
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I can hear mine if I leave the door open and hit the start button, even if I don't depress the brake....
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      10-27-2013, 02:24 PM   #7
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Unlocking the car will activate the fuel pump. I'm pretty sure your fuel pump is dead. If your fuel pressure is zero and your computer says there's a malfunction with it, that's proof enough.
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      10-29-2013, 02:18 PM   #8
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So I went ahead and made sure my battery was charged and took out my multimeter.

I took off the cover for the fuel pump under the rear (passenger side) seat. It looks like I have a single connector. But according to my Bentley service manual and this guide: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...eplacement.htm, I should have two separate connectors.

(more info after the pictures)









The service manual doesn't show the pinout for the connector, so I'm taking wild guesses and checking the voltage on every line. Does anybody know the pinout of the harness? I noticed this red/white wire shows 0 volts even while trying to start the car.





Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the e9X uses a fuel pump "control module" instead of a relay? Should I work backwards and begin checking power at the control module? Thanks for all the advice so far guys!
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      10-29-2013, 02:27 PM   #9
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check ur fuses
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      10-29-2013, 02:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
check ur fuses
That's the first thing I did. Fuse #70 (fuel pump) is still good. Checked it with a multimeter and physically/visually inspected it.
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      10-29-2013, 02:38 PM   #11
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I see. You should definately be able to hear fuel pump running when unlocking the car and also when trying to start the car. If u dont hear it running its a bad sign.
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      10-29-2013, 02:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
I see. You should definately be able to hear fuel pump running when unlocking the car and also when trying to start the car. If u dont hear it running its a bad sign.
I figure there could only be two issues at this point: bad fuel pump or bad fuel pump control module (relay). But until I can determine what the proper voltage to the harness is, I can't assume it's one or the other.

Might I add, I sprayed starting fluid directly into my throttle body and the car started up for a second.
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      10-29-2013, 02:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy View Post
I figure there could only be two issues at this point: bad fuel pump or bad fuel pump control module (relay). But until I can determine what the proper voltage to the harness is, I can't assume it's one or the other.

Might I add, I sprayed starting fluid directly into my throttle body and the car started up for a second.
I know but, are you able to hear the FP running? if you do then is neither of these 2 issues you are talking about. If u dont then could be.
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      10-29-2013, 02:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoRomeo View Post
I know but, are you able to hear the FP running? if you do then is neither of these 2 issues you are talking about. If u dont then could be.
No, I can't hear the pump at all.
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      10-29-2013, 03:10 PM   #15
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then you are in the right direction. I have not read too much on these fuel pumps or control module but start by testing the module first then go to FP.
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      10-29-2013, 04:52 PM   #16
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If you've followed the pump test procedure in the Bentley to test the fuel pump and get no voltage at the connector, then the pump is probably fine. The two wires you want to check are the two heavier gauge wires, the red/white strip one and the brown one. Looks like those are the ones you checked in your pictures. That really only leaves your fuel pump module or wiring in between. If you need to replace the fuel pump module it isn't plug n play, you'll need to get it coded for your vehicle
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      10-29-2013, 11:44 PM   #17
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youre on windows xp? oh damn
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      10-30-2013, 06:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
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youre on windows xp? oh damn
It's a VM
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      10-30-2013, 07:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michbmw View Post
If you've followed the pump test procedure in the Bentley to test the fuel pump and get no voltage at the connector, then the pump is probably fine. The two wires you want to check are the two heavier gauge wires, the red/white strip one and the brown one. Looks like those are the ones you checked in your pictures. That really only leaves your fuel pump module or wiring in between. If you need to replace the fuel pump module it isn't plug n play, you'll need to get it coded for your vehicle
Thanks for the info. I'm assuming the red/white wire should be 12V? If so, assuming I supply 12V to the fuel pump, the car should start, right?
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      10-31-2013, 05:28 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy View Post
Thanks for the info. I'm assuming the red/white wire should be 12V? If so, assuming I supply 12V to the fuel pump, the car should start, right?
yes the red white is positive, the brown is negative

question which engine do you have and what year is your car (specifically build date)? I see multiple wiring schematics in WDS
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      10-31-2013, 10:34 AM   #21
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Fuel pumps shot
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      10-31-2013, 10:58 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michbmw View Post
yes the red white is positive, the brown is negative

question which engine do you have and what year is your car (specifically build date)? I see multiple wiring schematics in WDS
Thanks for the reply.

My car has an N51, MY2008 built on March 8, 2008. (Last 7 digits of my VIN are PG07313)
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