[Catch223]

Ouch

[krhodes1]

Originally Posted by TemjinX2

you gotta love the germans with the aluminum bolts and plastic water pumps.

Steel bolts into a magnesium engine block would be a spectacularly bad idea.

They don't do this stuff for funsies.

[unrealii]

yikes!

Anyone know if the OFHG bolts are aluminum? I KNOW that the dealer that replaced the gasket last resued the bolts.

[RossBMWZseries]

Bringing this thread back to life...

Talking about aluminum bolts, I stripped the top bolt that attaches the starter to the transmission in my N52. This E14 bolt goes from the rear of the car towards the front. I used a 3/8 flexible ratchet with the E14 socket and it just stripped, must’ve not been sitting correctly.

I have tried vice grips, ratcheting wrench, extraction bolt sockets, sawed a groove on the bolt head to turn it with a flat head socket, and even hammering a chisel into the head to break it off but was unsuccessful. Nothing is working. Keep in mind the clearance is VERY tight as the firewall gets in the way, so there’s no space to hammer anything into the bolt. Intake manifold is off so I have clear access to the starter but the only thing keeping me from doing a simple starter swap is that damn bolt.

* Can I apply heat to an aluminum bolt? Will it melt off? I wanna be able to chisel and cut the head off as it may loosen the tension off the bolt and could thread it out by hand (that’s what I read in the forum somewhere)

* can I use a torch down there to apply heat to the bolt without making my car explode and burn me to pieces?

* some of you will suggest drilling into the bolt but I don’t have enough clearance

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as this is my daily and it’s been 2 weeks already of failure after failure

[mainbearing]

If the block has magnesium then are ALL cylinder head bolts also aluminum? Rein sells a set of 4 that ARE aluminum.

[mainbearing]

Mine were steel.

Originally Posted by unrealii

yikes!

Anyone know if the OFHG bolts are aluminum? I KNOW that the dealer that replaced the gasket last resued the bolts.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

If the block has magnesium then are ALL cylinder head bolts also aluminum? Rein sells a set of 4 that ARE aluminum.

No. The inner block is aluminum. Those bolts are not steel because the timing case is magnesium.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

Bringing this thread back to life...

Talking about aluminum bolts, I stripped the top bolt that attaches the starter to the transmission in my N52. This E14 bolt goes from the rear of the car towards the front. I used a 3/8 flexible ratchet with the E14 socket and it just stripped, must’ve not been sitting correctly.

I have tried vice grips, ratcheting wrench, extraction bolt sockets, sawed a groove on the bolt head to turn it with a flat head socket, and even hammering a chisel into the head to break it off but was unsuccessful. Nothing is working. Keep in mind the clearance is VERY tight as the firewall gets in the way, so there’s no space to hammer anything into the bolt. Intake manifold is off so I have clear access to the starter but the only thing keeping me from doing a simple starter swap is that damn bolt.

* Can I apply heat to an aluminum bolt? Will it melt off? I wanna be able to chisel and cut the head off as it may loosen the tension off the bolt and could thread it out by hand (that’s what I read in the forum somewhere)

* can I use a torch down there to apply heat to the bolt without making my car explode and burn me to pieces?

* some of you will suggest drilling into the bolt but I don’t have enough clearance

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated as this is my daily and it’s been 2 weeks already of failure after failure

You can use a Dremel or similar and cut off or grind off the bolt head. If it is the long bolt going from behind as you described, then it is bolted onto the starter, if you grind off the head you are home free, rest will be inside the starter as you take it off.

If you don't have one, get a full face clear shield (3M or similar) from big box home stores, great for grinding, cutting off face and eye protection.

You could even try using a plumbers type metal cutting blade tool to cut the head off. Use WD40 on the head as cutting fluid to prevent aluminum chips binding to the blade.

I highly recommend this wrench set or similar for starter bolts:

https://www.amazon.com/Vim-Tools-WTC.../dp/B000FN6PGA

I have these, bought and used for starter bolts, they are very good quality.

It maybe worth using these for putting back the new ones.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

If the block has magnesium then are ALL cylinder head bolts also aluminum? Rein sells a set of 4 that ARE aluminum.

You can see in the picture where the magnesium starts, jacketing the inner aluminum block. The main head bolts holes with threads are also visible that are on the aluminum inner block. Pretty fancy engineering and manufacturing by BMW.



https://www.mwerks.com/artman/publis...nter_960.shtml

[RossBMWZseries]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

You can use a Dremel or similar and cut off or grind off the bolt head. If it is the long bolt going from behind as you described, then it is bolted onto the starter, if you grind off the head you are home free, rest will be inside the starter as you take it off.

If you don't have one, get a full face clear shield (3M or similar) from big box home stores, great for grinding, cutting off face and eye protection.

You could even try using a plumbers type metal cutting blade tool to cut the head off. Use WD40 on the head as cutting fluid to prevent aluminum chips binding to the blade.

I highly recommend this wrench set or similar for starter bolts:

https://www.amazon.com/Vim-Tools-WTC.../dp/B000FN6PGA

I have these, bought and used for starter bolts, they are very good quality.

It maybe worth using these for putting back the new ones.

You answered everything and more that I needed to know, I truly appreciate it!

Placed the order that that E socket set

[Gamb1t]

Just noticed one of my VCG bolt was loose. I proceeded to tighten it to 7NM. I was so nervous of breaking it. Feels like I'm handling Feberge Eggs!

Proceeded to order extra bolts for backups.

[iqraceworks]

I was replacing the water pump on my 07' 335i last night.....previous owner had both of the bottom aluminum bolts jammed up. I was able to get one out, but the other one broke off leaving about 1/2 left in the block......great!! Now I need to figure out how to get the darn thing out!!

Why in the hell did BMW use aluminum bolts?? Lots of manufacturers out there have no issues with using steel bolts in aluminum blocks.

Maybe I will just put steel bolts in after I figure out how to remove the broken odd part ...and then retap the holes to clean the threads out.

[oVeRdOsE.]

Not because you'll use it twice that they will fail ...

1. using that kind of bolt twice, mean that if you use the original torque spec, the bolt will not ''act'' like a new one ( might loose, might got less traction, etc),

2. Reusing it, mean that you need more torque than spec. This might result in a failure indeed.

This is no magic, its strength of materials.

At then end, don't use it twice. But, but, if a alternator job means that you need to wait a week for new bolt, use blue locktight and original torque spec, and you're good to go.

Use logic, aka get new bolt on major safety parts.

Also for corrosion, use a galvanic scale, and compare. yes aluminum is on the less noble side, but the important stuff to look at, is the electronegativity differential between both material and see on a time scale the corrosion effect.

[RealJ22]

Hmm. I might want to get steel oil pan bolts after reading this. All of the aluminum feel like they are going to snap. I rarely go the full turns after.

[hassmaschine]

you shouldn't be re-using them. They won't snap if you torque them properly and leave them alone.

And yes, TTY bolts, especially aluminum (which has low yield strength compared to steel), because the "yielding" of the bolt physically causes it to permanently stretch and a section of the shaft to neck down in size. You can't re-yield the bolt because it's already stretched beyond the plasticity of the material, it will just break.

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

I was replacing the water pump on my 07' 335i last night.....previous owner had both of the bottom aluminum bolts jammed up. I was able to get one out, but the other one broke off leaving about 1/2 left in the block......great!! Now I need to figure out how to get the darn thing out!!

Why in the hell did BMW use aluminum bolts?? Lots of manufacturers out there have no issues with using steel bolts in aluminum blocks.

Maybe I will just put steel bolts in after I figure out how to remove the broken odd part ...and then retap the holes to clean the threads out.

Obviously you didn't read anything. The bolts are aluminum because they are used in the magnesium block N52, and BMW wanted to use the same bolts on all N5x engines. Also, they are quite a bit lighter, so you save weight. Aluminum weighs about 1/3 as much as steel.

[RealJ22]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

you shouldn't be re-using them. They won't snap if you torque them properly and leave them alone.

And yes, TTY bolts, especially aluminum (which has low yield strength compared to steel), because the "yielding" of the bolt physically causes it to permanently stretch and a section of the shaft to neck down in size. You can't re-yield the bolt because it's already stretched beyond the plasticity of the material, it will just break.

I've never re-used the aluminum bolts. Half of the threads on here and on facebook are people snapping NEW aluminum bolts. Doesn't make sense if I can use steel.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

you shouldn't be re-using them. They won't snap if you torque them properly and leave them alone.

And yes, TTY bolts, especially aluminum (which has low yield strength compared to steel), because the "yielding" of the bolt physically causes it to permanently stretch and a section of the shaft to neck down in size. You can't re-yield the bolt because it's already stretched beyond the plasticity of the material, it will just break.



Obviously you didn't read anything. The bolts are aluminum because they are used in the magnesium block N52, and BMW wanted to use the same bolts on all N5x engines. Also, they are quite a bit lighter, so you save weight. Aluminum weighs about 1/3 as much as steel.

I've noticed that several companies sell steel water pump bolts kits.

I think I'm going to roll the dice, add a few ounces of extra weight to the car, and use some steel bolts with copper anti-sieze on them for the water pump.

[John 070]

I just did my wife's water pump on her GM car and I used OE, which came with new torque to yield bolts. All of the aftermarket pumps did not, and GM gets about $4 ea times 6. At 89 in. lbs. it wouldn't take much...my whole thing is I want to do the job 1X as it's a PITA, and there were no leaks. I have seen online where guys did the job 2X. That is heartbreaking lol

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by oVeRdOsE.

At then end, don't use it twice. But, but, if a alternator job means that you need to wait a week for new bolt, use blue locktight and original torque spec, and you're good to go.

Sorry but this is not good advice. If reusing them with the original torque to yield spec, very likely they will snap. If reusing the same bolt, you should go by feel, tighten just enough but no more.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Sorry but this is not good advice. If reusing them with the original torque to yield spec, very likely they will snap. If reusing the same bolt, you should go by feel, tighten just enough but no more.

He's saying torque it to Step 1 but do not torque it to Step 2, i.e. torque it to ft-lbs, not to an angle.

[Wicked999]

Can anyone tell me if you can reuse part number 11427543327 oil cooler housing bolts on a bmw e92 msport coupe . Many thanks

Many thanks

[Glene]

Originally Posted by Basedtiger

Hey guys just a heads up if you reuse aluminum bolts they can eventually break. Shown here are 2 water pump bolts snapped on my 335i. Previous owner replaced the water pump but not the bolts. These broke off as I was trying to remove it. Luckily I was still able to remove and install it. It could have been worst.

I replaced with three steel bolts last time I replaced the water pump.