[Tonethejackal]

A cowl leak likely got my glove box junction/fuse box wet, causing my wipers to go haywire and my airbag light to come on. Believe this leak also killed the battery. Car was able to start. After checking various fuses and relay now the car will turn over but wont start. With ignition on, I am told I should have power at the green connection adjacent to the 50 amp fuses in the dme housing at the left rear of the engine compartment. I am getting .7 volts.

Now get this. With the ignition off (no key in the car), the dme relay coil is energized and the relay is closed. This is not right, correct?

Also, at fuse 37, I seem to have no voltage with the ignition on or off.

First problem was to find a wiper/airbag short that has lead to dme issue.

I am leaning to a fuse box replacement. Thoughts?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Tonethejackal

A cowl leak likely got my glove box junction/fuse box wet, causing my wipers to go haywire and my airbag light to come on. Believe this leak also killed the battery. Car was able to start...now the car will turn over but wont start...

With the ignition off (no key in the car), the dme relay coil is energized and the relay is closed. This is not right, correct? Also, at fuse 37, I seem to have no voltage with the ignition on or off...

The "DME Relay" has the ID# K6300 in the following TIS Circuit Diagrams for DME power supply and Fuse F37:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/vMifIQL
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...4-fuse/i1ukJnB

Obviously, if this relay is closed, there should be battery voltage at F37. With F37 in place, there should ALSO be battery voltage at pin #2 (Orange wire) of Connector X60003 at the DME and also at the Orange wires at the two VANOS Solenoids, and the two Cam Sensors.

As you can see from the circuit diagrams, the DME turns itself on (more correctly one module turns on other modules) via pin #13 of Connector X60005 which supplies a ground to the K6300 (DME Relay) coil which SHOULD close the relay contacts and provide battery power to the DME and other sensors shown in the F37 circuit.

Given the history of water damage in the area of the JB that you describe, I would particularly check for corrosion in the Connector X11010, Pin #1, that the ground signal from the DME to the DME Relay needs to pass through. Make sure that you have battery voltage at F37 when you activate K6300 with a ground jumper, and if so, you have found your problem.

Also, there are reported cases where bad battery can cause synchronization between CAS & DME to be lost, so it may be that when you put the remote in the slot, the CAS can't properly signal the DME to activate K6300.

Hope your DMM is all warmed up & ready to test.

George

[Tonethejackal]

Thx George. I check those connectors tomorrow. Tracing the Newtis diagrams has been.....a challenge somewhat.

As I stated, the K6300 is always active now, even without the key in the ignition. I checked only one side of F37 fuse, as the other female connection in the box is not exposed for my probe to touch. I will rig a pin to insert into the non exposed side since I am guessing that is the hot side, that will give my voltmeter probe something to contact and check for voltage.

[Tonethejackal]

So, per the wiring diagram, the DME relay appears to close via ground wiring that occurs in the dme. I disconnect the DME, therefore breaking the ground circuit, and the dme relay is still closing without the key in the ignition AND while also not supplying power to F37 (when the relay hot contact has power). When I do disconnect the X11010 connector at the fuse/junction box, the relay finally becomes inactive. That seems to tell me something may have got fried and grounded out the relay coil ground path on the fuse box circuit board. Still can't explain why when the relay is closed I get no power to fuse 37. Any way, I am trying to pull out the fuse box to investigate the fuse board, and I can't get the recall replaced B+ cable disconnected. I've removed the allen screw and have yanked quite a bit on the connection and can't get it to come loose. what am I missing?
Pic at link below.

http://www.dropbox.com/s/4xocrc96618...51454.jpg?dl=0

[Tonethejackal]

Ok , I mistakenly assumed the relay in the DME compartment WAS the dme relay. I assumed this because the newTIS diagrams showed the relay at the junction box where I see NO apparent relay.

Tonight I saw in another post with a pic from a Bentley manual, that had a pic of a DME compartment resembling mine, that the relay was actually a fan relay. STILL, it seems odd that relay is active with no key in the ignition.

[Tonethejackal]

Replaced the fuse junction box with a used unit which did not solve the non power to the DME issue. The DME relay DOES function when I ground the fuse box pin in connection x11010. I also checked to see the x11010 connection to the junction box was sound, as I grounded to pin at the dme in connector X60005 and the relay functioedn and gave power to fuse 37. So the non start issue has been narrowed down to the DME not making the needed ground when needed in order to active the DME relay. I will looked into the CAS to DME communication issue that George suggested. the run was running once minute, then after pulling the wiper relay and replacing, it wasn't running the next, so I doubt it would be a low battery communication related issue. I guess I will also try to track down actual ground/s for the dme and make sure it is good. looks like there are 3 on X60003 at pins 4, 5, and 6.

[Tonethejackal]

Ok, so my issue was Fuse 4 was missing. I obviously don't recall pulling fuse 4 in the process of trying to solve my wiper issue and my glove box fuse diagram clearly shows fuse 4 is for the engine and not wipers, but regardless, it was missing. I installed a fuse and the car started right up.

Still have the ABS, Airbag, and wipers going haywire even with the replaced fuse box, but at least the car runs. Hallelujah!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Tonethejackal

Ok, so my issue was Fuse 4 was missing...I installed a fuse and the car started right up.

Still have the ABS, Airbag, and wipers going haywire even with the replaced fuse box, but at least the car runs. Hallelujah!

That's rather sneaky how the DME turns itself on via F4 (on 2008 & later models -- different fuse number on earlier models). As I read the circuit diagram, F4 provides power from Terminal 30 to activate the DME relay (K6300) which powers the DME functions:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/vMifIQL

Does the wiper occasionally run regardless of switch setting? Does this happen ONLY when the engine is running (as opposed to ignition on, engine OFF)? Same for ABS/ MRS warning lights? Since the ABS function is controlled by the DSC, the Airbag by the MRS module, and the Wiper by the JBE (Junction Box Electronic Module -- NOT the JB ;-), if simultaneous problems arise intermittently with ALL three modules, that suggests a System Voltage issue, usually caused by a faulty Voltage Regulator in the Alternator (~$40 DIY).

If so, check your System Voltage with engine running (multimeter at Jumpstart Terminal under hood), or activate Hidden Menu 9.00 to read system voltage in real time on the instrument cluster:
http://e90.wikifoundry.com/page/BC+hidden+menus

"Light Shows" on the instrument cluster, or strange electronic happenings are more often caused by excessive alternator voltage output due to faulty voltage regulator ("overvoltage"/ 15.0V) rather than Gremlins.

George