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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Flashing MHD tune today and have a couple questions.



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      05-30-2020, 12:26 PM   #1
Slim415
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Flashing MHD tune today and have a couple questions.

1) Should I go with the V.9 beta or V.8 maps?

2) Can I do stage 2+ with DP's but no FMIC? I ordered a VRSF FMIC and it will ship mid June. Will it be okay till then or should I just get stage 2 and then purchase the 2+ map in a few weeks when I get the FMIC?

3) When using the battery charger should it be in boost or trickle mode?

4) For the "OEM/catted DP's" I do not check this since I'm using catless DPs correct.

5) What should I set "coolant target at?

6) Linear throttle mapping good or not?
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      05-30-2020, 12:27 PM   #2
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Sorry for all the questions, I'm just reading through the N54 flasher user guide and am feeling a bit overwhelmed. I've never installed a tune before and I want to make sure I do it right.
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      05-30-2020, 01:40 PM   #3
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Im running stage 1+ v9 and i havent had any issues. Power is smooth and comes on strong.

Correct about oem/catted dp option. It just makes it to where your car wont throw cat efficiency codes & check engine light (same thing as what a dp fix would do but in a different way i think)

My coolant target is set to sport and havent had any issues. Track is used for drag strip or at the... track. As it puts the cooling system in i guess you could say full blast so keep the car as cool as possible before runs at the strip or on the track. Probably wouldnt use for street use

Linear throttle mapping will just smooth out the power. I havent used it much but i think it kinda drove like an NA car and reduced low end torque.

Probably would be fine having the charger set to trickle mode

If im wrong about any of this/something needs a correction, anyone is free to correct me
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      05-30-2020, 02:08 PM   #4
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MHD recommends FMIC for 2+ so I would not run that until you get that on just run 2 for now and the switch it only takes 2 minutes to switch the map in the future. I run the V9 2+ map and love it the power is great and super smooth. Keep the stock DP box unchecked, as for the throttle I haven't tried linear so can't speak on which is better.
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      05-30-2020, 03:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim415 View Post
1) Should I go with the V.9 beta or V.8 maps?

2) Can I do stage 2+ with DP's but no FMIC? I ordered a VRSF FMIC and it will ship mid June. Will it be okay till then or should I just get stage 2 and then purchase the 2+ map in a few weeks when I get the FMIC?

3) When using the battery charger should it be in boost or trickle mode?

4) For the "OEM/catted DP's" I do not check this since I'm using catless DPs correct.

5) What should I set "coolant target at?

6) Linear throttle mapping good or not?
Avoid V8 maps,

Either use V7.1 maps or V9 beta.

2) bad idea to go stage 2+ without FMIC, your stock intercooler will rapidly heat soak, high IATs and you will loose power.

Stage 2 map pack comes with 2+ maps.

3) a trickle charger with 8amp or more should be fine.

5) Sport coolant target recommend by MHD for every day driving. Some people have reported higher fuel consumption as a result though.

6) linear throttle mapping not recommended for automatic transmissions.
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      05-30-2020, 03:47 PM   #6
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thanks guys, gonna do the tune now.
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      05-30-2020, 03:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
Avoid V8 maps,

Either use V7.1 maps or V9 beta.

2) bad idea to go stage 2+ without FMIC, your stock intercooler will rapidly heat soak, high IATs and you will loose power.

Stage 2 map pack comes with 2+ maps.

3) a trickle charger with 8amp or more should be fine.

5) Sport coolant target recommend by MHD for every day driving. Some people have reported higher fuel consumption as a result though.

6) linear throttle mapping not recommended for automatic transmissions.
This is spot on!
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      05-30-2020, 04:04 PM   #8
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My moneys on the v7 maps fwiw...
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      05-30-2020, 04:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer View Post
My moneys on the v7 maps fwiw...
Agreed, using V7.1 myself, prefer it over the V9 beta maps personally.
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      05-30-2020, 04:16 PM   #10
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I'm trying to figure out how to turn off my halo DRL's before I flash. People say put key fob in, press start. And for me then my lights come one. There's no way I can see that turns off the halo's. Is this okay to leave on?
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      05-30-2020, 05:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim415 View Post
I'm trying to figure out how to turn off my halo DRL's before I flash. People say put key fob in, press start. And for me then my lights come one. There's no way I can see that turns off the halo's. Is this okay to leave on?
If it's hooked to a battery charger. It does not matter
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      05-30-2020, 06:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim415 View Post
1) Should I go with the V.9 beta or V.8 maps?

2) Can I do stage 2+ with DP's but no FMIC? I ordered a VRSF FMIC and it will ship mid June. Will it be okay till then or should I just get stage 2 and then purchase the 2+ map in a few weeks when I get the FMIC?

3) When using the battery charger should it be in boost or trickle mode?

4) For the "OEM/catted DP's" I do not check this since I'm using catless DPs correct.

5) What should I set "coolant target at?

6) Linear throttle mapping good or not?
1) Should I go with the V.9 beta or V.8 maps?


Use Version 8 for now. Beta is an unrefined product. Refined enough that it probably won't cause problems but why bother. Wait until it's not listed at "beta"

2) Can I do stage 2+ with DP's but no FMIC? I ordered a VRSF FMIC and it will ship mid June. Will it be okay till then or should I just get stage 2 and then purchase the 2+ map in a few weeks when I get the FMIC?

No. You should do stage 2. Stage 2+ is for an upgraded FMIC & Downpipes.


3) When using the battery charger should it be in boost or trickle mode?

Trickle mode - make sure your battery charger can maintain 14.5 volts; the DME is very sensitive. A 30amp or better battery charger/maintainer can do this no problem.

Turn off the lights, radio, & heat off. Do not open the doors, windows or anything when flashing...

4) For the "OEM/catted DP's" I do not check this since I'm using catless DPs correct.

Correct

5) What should I set "coolant target at?

Sport mode works nicely...

6) Linear throttle mapping good or not?

Not a fan of it
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      05-30-2020, 06:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHWARZ_E92 View Post

Linear throttle mapping will just smooth out the power. I havent used it much but i think it kinda drove like an NA car and reduced low end torque.
It doesn't reduce low end torque, it just changes the throttle mapping so the car doesn't think you're romping on the gas when you just press it a third of the way down.

It takes time to adjust to though, the car does feel slower when you're used to the aggressive 80% @ 40% stock throttle map. But it makes it so much easier to take off smoothly and modulate the throttle finely when you need to
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      05-30-2020, 07:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim415 View Post
I'm trying to figure out how to turn off my halo DRL's before I flash. People say put key fob in, press start. And for me then my lights come one. There's no way I can see that turns off the halo's. Is this okay to leave on?
As stated by drew, it doesn't matter of your battery is on a charger.

You can turn it off by turning the headlight knob to the 12 o'clock position, straight up.

For map flashing after MHD has been initially installed, you should turn ac, off, and headlights off completely as above. This usually takes about 2 mins max and does not need a charger.
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      05-30-2020, 07:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ky0u View Post
It doesn't reduce low end torque, it just changes the throttle mapping so the car doesn't think you're romping on the gas when you just press it a third of the way down.

It takes time to adjust to though, the car does feel slower when you're used to the aggressive 80% @ 40% stock throttle map. But it makes it so much easier to take off smoothly and modulate the throttle finely when you need to
It reduces throttle response from the stock setting. Depends on preference, but it works well in a manual transmission.

Using linear throttle on a Automatic transmission makes the car feel laggy. Stock throttle is already easy to modulate anyway.
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      05-30-2020, 09:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
It reduces throttle response from the stock setting. Depends on preference, but it works well in a manual transmission.

Using linear throttle on a Automatic transmission makes the car feel laggy. Stock throttle is already easy to modulate anyway.
I can definitely see how it'd be way worse on a MT, my e92 is the first AT I've driven in a decade. But I felt like even with the AT, when I was trying to smoothly take off from a light or maneuver through a parking lot, there were times when it would just lurch forward super hard. This was when the car was bone stock too.

When I first flashed linear, it was a bit disappointing, not gonna lie. The car felt anemic but idk if i'm just used to it, but I really am liking how the car goes exactly how I want it to now.
Especially those times when coming to a stop but before getting there, the light changes or traffic speeds up. It was just really touchy even if I barely tapped it
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      05-30-2020, 09:05 PM   #17
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OP...how’d it go?
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      05-30-2020, 09:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim415 View Post
1) Should I go with the V.9 beta or V.8 maps?

2) Can I do stage 2+ with DP's but no FMIC? I ordered a VRSF FMIC and it will ship mid June. Will it be okay till then or should I just get stage 2 and then purchase the 2+ map in a few weeks when I get the FMIC?

3) When using the battery charger should it be in boost or trickle mode?

4) For the "OEM/catted DP's" I do not check this since I'm using catless DPs correct.

5) What should I set "coolant target at?

6) Linear throttle mapping good or not?
I personally don't flash anything unless my car is on a battery charger. It's not worth taking the chance of bricking the DME. True, the 2 min flash probably won't do this in all likelihood. Just make sure your battery is in great condition. Remember, the DME is hyper sensitive and doesn't like voltage below 14.5, when flashing.

When you play around with ISTA, you will learn that this program requires the battery to be on a trickle charger that keeps the battery at 14.50 at all times.
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      05-30-2020, 10:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saif2018 View Post
Agreed, using V7.1 myself, prefer it over the V9 beta maps personally.
Haven't tried V7 map yet. Only used V8 and V9 (currently using) why do you prefer V7 over V9? Just wondering if I should switch over.
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      05-31-2020, 11:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer View Post
OP...how'd it go?
Went great, and car is fast as hell now. That first time out after a tune is a magical experience. Had my heart racing and palms sweating in a good way. Think I'll turn the burble down though. I have it set to 1 second, medium at 2.8K RPM but it seems a bit loud and excessive but that's just my personal taste.

Something I did notice was that I have power loss in high RPM range of 2nd and third gears. Maybe it would also happen in 4th or 5th but I never got that far as there's not many places to drive fast in San Francisco. This didn't happen all the time but when it did, the car would be flying and then felt all of the sudden like I was driving up a steep hill. Not sure how else to describe it. I purchased the monitor, so I'm gonna go out and log some data to bring back to you guys. I also read that you should change your spark plugs when tuning. I didn't do it yet but I have a set of 1-step colder plugs to install. Not sure if that could be related to the issue.

Edit* I went with the V.9 beta map stage 2 for MT and 91 pump gas.
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      05-31-2020, 12:32 PM   #21
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I'm only speculating here without your logs, but it could likely be your IATs. My car would do the same before I got an intercooler.
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      05-31-2020, 02:37 PM   #22
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If its dying off around 5500-6000rpm that is completely normal as that's where the stock turbos die off. It's much less noticeable until you tune the car. Simply shift sooner and it shouldn't be a problem.
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