[N54Society]

Just had my transmission along with the mechatronic unit replaced from a donor car. With it the fluid and seals were replaced as well. I drove home and everything was fine (I didn't push the car though). Then the following day these codes pop up. Several icons come up on the dash. An orange "brake" light, a gear sign, a gas pedal, and I think one more. When I look up the codes I see this pile of codes:



Other than the power management one, what do these mean? How can I prove that this was not installed properly? In an attempt to fix the issue myself, I went into WinFPK and flashed the mechatronic's VIN to match my car's VIN but that didn't fix the issue either. I'm at a loss. Please help.

[relative4]

How old is that battery?

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by relative4

How old is that battery?

1.5 years old AGM battery that was coded for the car and has been working great.

[Steve Sas]

What you need to do is buy a Toyota.

Problem solved.

[iqraceworks]

Why don't you take it back to the shop that did the swap for you? If it's not right....they need to fix it.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Why don't you take it back to the shop that did the swap for you? If it's not right....they need to fix it.

I'm in contact with the shop so ultimately that's what will happen but I thought I'd run it by you guys so we can have a plan of attack as well. It seems unlikely that the new mecatronic is bad. Sounds like something to do with the installation of the sleeve/electrical plug. Every code seems to be about communication or lack thereof, right?

[iqraceworks]

The plug might not be completely seated. There is that lock down right that turns to lock the plug down, maybe they didn't lock it down all the way and it came lose?

If you had no codes at first...and now you do, that's what I would check first.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Steve Sas

What you need to do is buy a Toyota.

Problem solved.

Alternator went on the Toyota, soon after it was bought, so much for Toyota reliability.

Lets wait and see what else goes, then we can claim Toyota unreliability

Face-palm

[Steve Sas]

There was a recall for the Denso alternator issue.

The output shorts out and burns 80A fuse.

Jeep used same alternator.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

The plug might not be completely seated. There is that lock down right that turns to lock the plug down, maybe they didn't lock it down all the way and it came lose?

If you had no codes at first...and now you do, that's what I would check first.

So get this. I'm driving to the shop today and suddenly all of the lights and codes go away. I hope I'm not jinxing it but the drive is like 20 minutes and nothing. I even drove it hard trying to reproduce the issue but nothing. I got there and didn't have anything to show the guy so I came back home. Still no codes, lol. Here's what I'm thinking happened. Between the time that I started getting these error codes, I coded the mechatronic using WinKFP to match my car's VIN. I immediately drove my car and when I got about a block away, the codes came back. I gave up and parked the car. I drove the car again this morning to drop my son off at school and the codes were still there and a bunch of errors came back up on the dash. It wasn't until I started driving to the mechanic that the issue "resolved itself". Could it be that it took some driving for the computer to do it's checks, fully adapt, and recognize the VINs matching?

[cshiznitzj]

Sounds like it could be over voltage of electronic systems. Check voltage when you have this event. If it's high, it would point to your voltage regulator which is a very easy fix.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by cshiznitzj

Sounds like it could be over voltage of electronic systems. Check voltage when you have this event. If it's high, it would point to your voltage regulator which is a very easy fix.

Should I check with the car on? I have a multimeter but I'm unclear on where should check at. The positive terminal in the engine bay and a negative point? Also, what's the correct range I should be expecting?

Thanks

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by N54Society

Should I check with the car on? I have a multimeter but I'm unclear on where should check at. The positive terminal in the engine bay and a negative point? Also, what's the correct range I should be expecting?

Thanks

Check off the back of the alternator, on the post with the big black wire(with red tape). Shouldn't be higher 14.2-14.5. My reg went out and my alternator was putting out 15-16 volts, but I didn't have all the codes you had and the ones I did have were different, no transmission codes.

I think it's related to your trans swap, maybe they pinched/cut/opened a wire some where and its only intermittently losing connection

[N54Society]

Update:

It was the sleeve. The mechanic that did the work didn't push it in all the way in. I had to take it to a more competent mechanic to redo the work.

[IllSic_Design]

Glad you got it sorted, hope you didn't have to pay the new mechanic or got reimbursed.

[N54Society]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Glad you got it sorted, hope you didn't have to pay the new mechanic or got reimbursed.

The original mechanic that did the job incorrectly reimbursed me half of what I paid the second guy to fix his mistake. Live and learn. Always go to a specialized mechanic even if you have to pay a little more. I would have done the work myself if I had the time.

[iqraceworks]

....that's why I do all my own work on my stuff. It's hard to trust people to do things right.