[K9Leader]

Refurbishing a set of 335 brake calipers for my 128 and bleed screw seized and snapped off:



I will start my search on the Google machine to see how best to get this out but any wisdom the forum can share will be appreciated.

[Suvorovo]

I got an aluminum engine mount bracket bolt out that snapped off due to long term stress. Filed a deep slot into it and used a big screwdriver. Make sure it's deep enough for a screw driver element to fit well so you don't end up with an even shorter nub. Extractor kit would work well, but aluminum stuff isn't torqued that much and I don't like the idea of smacking a hammer onto those tiny aluminum threads.

Tiny wheel grinder element would work well for the slot and maybe the vibrations from grinding will reduce the tension. Wear eye protection so the metal shavings don't get into your eye.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by Suvorovo

I got an aluminum engine mount bracket bolt out that snapped off due to long term stress. Filed a deep slot into it and used a big screwdriver. Make sure it's deep enough for a screw driver element to fit well so you don't end up with an even shorter nub. Extractor kit would work well, but aluminum stuff isn't torqued that much and I don't like the idea of smacking a hammer onto those tiny aluminum threads.

Tiny wheel grinder element would work well for the slot and maybe the vibrations from grinding will reduce the tension. Wear eye protection so the metal shavings don't get into your eye.

Yep, it is soaking in penetrating oil and I need to get a serious heavy duty bolt extractor set - all I have now are some ez-out bits. Fortunately, I still have a good bit of the screw base that gives me something to grab onto, whatever method I go with.

Thanks for your wisdom!

[Suvorovo]

Carful banging on the extractor! Those threads are tiny.

[Andystobbs]

Whack a close fitting socket onto it. Warm in oven. Remove bleed screw.

[R3dLeader]

Buy a remanned caliper from Autozone for $80. This isn't worth your time.

[whyzee125]

I agree, I wouldn't spend a ton of time on it but I bet with a little heat you can get it out without too much drama. Propane torches work wonders and I don't think I've ever had a stuck bolt since using one, even on rusty cars.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by R3dLeader

Buy a remanned caliper from Autozone for $80. This isn't worth your time.

I picked up these 335 front calipers from Ebay and they are fairly inexpensive so I can always pick up another one if I can't solve this one. However, I am retired so do have time to spend working on my cars and learning new things (such as rebuilding/refurbishing brake calipers). So, I will exhaust the possibilities before starting over with a new caliper.

I've already completed the caliper for the driver side and am also working on a set of 328 calipers for the rear.

[Suvorovo]

I never knew somebody can enjoy rebuilding calipers so much

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

No a pro but from what I learned DIYing, I would start with penetrating oil, then try and fit one of those biting sockets and see if one grabs onto what is left or maybe even a normal socket could bite. If that fails, groove in top (with dremmel or something) and try to flat head, if that fails, I would then drill it out. Also before reaching the drill out phase, I would probably try get heat involved if nothing has budged. Also using vice grips can work to but might be tough to get a good grip on threads VS a bolt head for example. And when you start to break it free or if you feel any movement, try to go back and then tighten it back, and then go back unloosen, etc. Usually helps.

Also yeah, I would not buy a new caliper for such a small roadblock. I'm sure you can get that bleed out somewhat easily with time. That would be 100% worth my time.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by Suvorovo

I never knew somebody can enjoy rebuilding calipers so much

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

No a pro but from what I learned DIYing, I would start with penetrating oil, then try and fit one of those biting sockets and see if one grabs onto what is left or maybe even a normal socket could bite. If that fails, groove in top (with dremmel or something) and try to flat head, if that fails, I would then drill it out. Also before reaching the drill out phase, I would probably try get heat involved if nothing has budged. Also using vice grips can work to but might be tough to get a good grip on threads VS a bolt head for example. And when you start to break it free or if you feel any movement, try to go back and then tighten it back, and then go back unloosen, etc. Usually helps.

Also yeah, I would not buy a new caliper for such a small roadblock. I'm sure you can get that bleed out somewhat easily with time. That would be 100% worth my time.

I've spent all morning working on it - used penetrating oil, used heat, used bolt extractor bits with an impact. Pretty much succeeded in rounding it down to smaller than my smallest bolt extractor. Several DIY videos I watched advocated inserting the smooth end of a drill bit into the hole so that it is solid in the middle and won't collapse/soften, which made some sense but makes drilling it out near impossible now. Also, in drilling out, I would be too concerned about damaging the threads/hole in the caliper.

I will go ahead and try cutting a slot and flat heading it but I do not see how that will achieve anything if the bolt extractors on an impact could not.

I've scoped out several listed on Ebay and told the sellers I would buy theirs if they can remove the bleed screw before shipping - I don't want to end up having to do this again.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

I've spent all morning working on it - used penetrating oil, used heat, used bolt extractor bits with an impact. Pretty much succeeded in rounding it down to smaller than my smallest bolt extractor. Several DIY videos I watched advocated inserting the smooth end of a drill bit into the hole so that it is solid in the middle and won't collapse/soften, which made some sense but makes drilling it out near impossible now. Also, in drilling out, I would be too concerned about damaging the threads/hole in the caliper.

I will go ahead and try cutting a slot and flat heading it but I do not see how that will achieve anything if the bolt extractors on an impact could not.

I've scoped out several listed on Ebay and told the sellers I would buy theirs if they can remove the bleed screw before shipping - I don't want to end up having to do this again.

Ahhh shoot I see. It's a tough one. I guess drilling is the only option or getting another caliper. I'm just surprised how bad it is. At this point I'd try drilling it out and run a tap after to make sure threads are OK.

[K9Leader]

Oh, I'll try drilling but I'm not expecting much.

[Suvorovo]

High hopes for the slot technique! Use a screwdriver with a hex end so you can twist with a wrench and not break your wrists.

Make the slot deep enough so that screwdriver can really fit in there, not too big though where the material will become too thin and break off.

[Brian86]

The calipers are aluminum right?

I'm surprised heating the caliper a little didn't free it instantly. Alum expands about 3x as much as iron.

If heat didn't get it.... I'd gamble it's been overtightened and the aluminum threads are destroyed.

[R3dLeader]

Originally Posted by R3dLeader

Buy a remanned caliper from Autozone for $80. This isn't worth your time.

I stand by this lol. Don't even go to eBay. The Autozone ones are OEM calipers that are cleaned and rebuilt. Usually there is a 20% off coupon also.

Even for a retiree your hourly rate is worth much more than what you will put into this. But to each his own....

I've been there done that with 2 frozen bleed screws. Not worth it.

Additionally, heating the aluminum caliper to a point that may free the bleed screw might have safety implications.

[K9Leader]

Originally Posted by R3dLeader

I stand by this lol. Don't even go to eBay. The Autozone ones are OEM calipers that are cleaned and rebuilt. Usually there is a 20% off coupon also.

Even for a retiree your hourly rate is worth much more than what you will put into this. But to each his own....

I've been there done that with 2 frozen bleed screws. Not worth it.

Additionally, heating the aluminum caliper to a point that may free the bleed screw might have safety implications.

You are right - the reman units from Autozone are a great deal - like new, all new components, bargain price. If this were for my DD E91 or my yardwork/utility Subaru Baja, my wife's car, my son's or daughter's cars, my parents' cars, or my mother-in-law's car (all of which I do all or at least some of the maintenance), that is what I would go with. However, this is my project car build and I wanted to take old calipers, tear them apart, paint them, and to rebuild/refurbish them so that they work and look good and are an improvement over stock. At $45 per used caliper, about $35 per rebuild kit, the cost is about the same (well, more now that I've had to buy a third used caliper). As with much in life, the journey is more important than the destination.

[K9Leader]

I went ahead and ordered another caliper after confirming with the seller that the bleed screw was removable. The other three calipers I have (another 335 caliper for the front and two 328 rears) were no problem removing the bleed screw.

It had reached the point of diminishing returns - further solutions would require buying more tools or repair parts so no longer worth it. New one will be here in a day or two so I will get back to it next week.

[TriumphTim]

Left hand drill bits never hurt to have on hand for such things...

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

Happened to me, too. Thankfully it was while tightening and it didn't leak. Ultimately my left brake caliper froze (unrelated) and I just replaced them both. You can get them out with a left handed drill bit, easy out and some heat. You might be able to even do it on the car.

[SamUniha]

This isn't worth your time. Buy a remanned