[Joebie]

Originally Posted by bbnks2

Not the inner hole the outer hole. That should be the feed hole which goes down to the oil pump since oil flows through the filter from outside to inside (trapped particulate is found in the outside pleats of the filter).

Yeah these cars only send filtered oil through the oil coolers and then the block. So, sump-->pump-->filter-->cooler-->block

That's some good knowledge, thanks for the insight. I always assumed (why, I dont know) that the oil went from inside to outside of the filter.

[bbnks2]

Originally Posted by Joester

That's some good knowledge, thanks for the insight. I always assumed (why, I dont know) that the oil went from inside to outside of the filter.

I could be wrong lol. If you have an OFH off do a visual check for which is the feed hole. Here is where the unfiltered oil comes up through from the oil pump:

[Joebie]

Fuckin' great news, boys!

I got the oil level sensor gasket in and installed and filled her up with oil. Turned the engine until it built pressure and that clicking noise went away entirely. Everything sounds nice and smooth. So that's a huge relief. My guess is either a lifter sticking with no pressure or something vanos related.

Its supposed to be real cold and snowy here this weekend so I'll probably drop the motor back in next weekend. Even though I'm in a garage it'll still be cold as balls in there if its 5F out.

[Joebie]

I need some second opinions on something.

When I installed my oil pan gasket, I used a very small bead of Permatex Optimum Black on both sides. The idea was that if the gasket "lips" fail, theres still some gasket maker there in the way to hopefully act as a 2nd form of defense against leaks in the long run.

The problem is, however, that I'm a MORON (if that wasn't already clear enough) and I put the gasket maker around the OUTSIDE of the bolt holes, meaning its essentially useless.

Do you guys think it's worth the $70 to redo it either with no gasket maker, or properly putting the gasket maker on the inside of the bolt holes? Or should I just say screw it and run it, and hope that it seals well for the long run?

On one hand I'd rather not spend the extra $70 if I don't have to, on the other hand, its obviously totally worth it if my failure will cause the gasket to leak earlier than normal because of how easy and accessible the pan is right now.

I'm leaning towards redo-ing it, but I'm not sure if I want to apply gasket maker again or not. I really don't know.

[Biginboca]

For me it depends on how long you plan on keeping the car. If less than 2-3 years I’d probably just run it as is cause oil pan gaskets seem to be fine for that length of time.

If more like 3-5+ years then I would redo it and reapply the RTV also. My feeling is the RTV can’t hurt and we all know BMW oil pan gaskets need as much help as they can get.

[IllSic_Design]

Agree /\

[hassmaschine]

Send it.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

Send it.

LOL

[Joebie]

After sleeping on it, I did go ahead and ordered a new oil pan gasket and bolt set.

I figure worst case scenario, I've wasted $70, but best case scenario I save myself from doing the oil pan gasket early and we all know how bad the oil pan sucks to do with the engine in the car. Heck, it kinda sucked to do even with the engine upside-down on a stand, there's just so many bolts. I cant even imagine how much of a pain it is to do laying underneath the car.

I also ordered a new accessory belt tensioner, and idler with hardware. At 100k miles, so it's time.

I do think I'm still going to use some gasket maker, a very tiny bead. This time on the INSIDE of the bolt pattern of course (d'oh!)

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by Joester

After sleeping on it, I did go ahead and ordered a new oil pan gasket and bolt set.

I figure worst case scenario, I've wasted $70, but best case scenario I save myself from doing the oil pan gasket early and we all know how bad the oil pan sucks to do with the engine in the car. Heck, it kinda sucked to do even with the engine upside-down on a stand, there's just so many bolts. I cant even imagine how much of a pain it is to do laying underneath the car.

I also ordered a new accessory belt tensioner, and idler with hardware. At 100k miles, so it's time.

I do think I'm still going to use some gasket maker, a very tiny bead. This time on the INSIDE of the bolt pattern of course (d'oh!)

Smart man. It is a B(*#&$ under the car, I've done a few.

[iahawkeye]

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet as I've been skimming the thread but... White vinegar will neutralize road salt. I'm in Chicago and every spring I get salt on my floor mats somehow. the only thing that removes it completely is white vinegar and elbow grease

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by iahawkeye

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet as I've been skimming the thread but... White vinegar will neutralize road salt. I'm in Chicago and every spring I get salt on my floor mats somehow. the only thing that removes it completely is white vinegar and elbow grease

That's why I bought some rubber mats for winter haha

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by iahawkeye

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet as I've been skimming the thread but... White vinegar will neutralize road salt. I'm in Chicago and every spring I get salt on my floor mats somehow. the only thing that removes it completely is white vinegar and elbow grease

Might be worth a shot, thanks for the tip!

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by Joester

Might be worth a shot, thanks for the tip!

Yeah it works. Your car will smell like vinegar for a week tho.

I have products for salt stains at Canadian Tire here to clean mats maybe see if you can find something.

[Joebie]

You guys wanna see how anal I am? This is a 9 year old 100k mile valve cover. That's why all the oxidation on this engine bugs me so much lol.

[Joebie]

I got the oil pan off and back on this time with the sealant put down correctly of course. Glad I did that in retrospect.

Should have the engine ready to go back in the car tomorrow, but I'm going to wait for my buddies to help me next weekend to actually drop it in. Much less sucky with friends helping.

[CTinline-six]

My valve cover looks like that on my 2009 but only because it's a new cover.

[Biginboca]

I like how this is going, you are making lemonade out of lemons! Things seem to be moving right along now that you have the gaskets sorted hopefully you will have smooth sailing.

I like how you wrote “no step” on your fender too lol

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I like how this is going, you are making lemonade out of lemons! Things seem to be moving right along now that you have the gaskets sorted hopefully you will have smooth sailing.

I like how you wrote “no step” on your fender too lol

Ha, that was actually one of my friends that helped pull the engine.

Its true though. No step.

[Joebie]

Does anybody know if there's anything special I need to do when installing a different motor into my car than it was "born" with?

One thing that comes to mind is the valvetronic limits. Do I need to somehow re-learn or re-calibrate valvetronic? My guess is that it will run fine without doing anything but may not be running optimally.

What about things like vanos, cam sensors, crank sensor, etc. I think those should all be fine but I've never done this before. valvetronic is the big one I'm not sure about.

Thanks!

EDIT: Update, I think the engine should be going back in this Friday if my friends can make it over. Got my fingers crossed.

[hassmaschine]

It should relearn the stops automatically.

[Joebie]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

It should relearn the stops automatically.

How do I do this?