[Zone 5]

I am super picky about maintaining my cars and I hate the idea of being stranded.... a couple of days ago I was driving down the highway and the motor started to run really rough and actually stalled at 60 mph.

I was able to restart the motor which was extremely lumpy and kept stalling but limped into a parking lot and had the car towed to a shop. It is a very good BMW indy.

Preliminary info suggests a bad injector. I plugged in Carly and got #1 and #3 misfire codes along with a "throttle angle -- manifold vacuum, correlation" code.

Car is a 2007 MT with MHD stage 1 installed. I bought it 3 years ago. It has 123,000 miles. All of the scheduled maintenance is up to date. Here is the unscheduled maintenance done:

Unscheduled Service
1. 11/3/08 24,499 mi High Pressure Fuel Pump
2. 5/13/09 31,915 mi Thermostat
3. 8/20/09 35,290 mi High Pressure Fuel Pump (2nd Time)
4. 3/22/10 41,665 mi Intake Silencer
5. 4/14/10 42,551 mi High Pressure Fuel Pump (3rd time)
6. 11/16/10 49,927 mi Both Turbos & Wastegate Actuators, Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Transmission Bearing & Fork
7. 9/29/12 67,010 mi Front Tension Strut Bushings, Power Steering Pump
8. 11/17/12 68,147 mi Vacuum Hoses
9. 6/3/13 73,720 mi Water Pump/Oil Filter Housing Gasket (2nd Time) and Oil Cooler Gasket
10. 9/24/13 76,957 mi Belt Tensioner, Pulleys, Fan Belt, Radiator Hose Upper/Lower
11. 10/14/13 77,540 mi Power Steering Pump Bolt Tightened/New Rear Sunshade
12. 1/15/14 80,414 mi Oil Pan Gasket
13. 2/18/15 91,695 mi Valve Cover Gasket
13. 5/18/15 93,370 mi Front Control Arm Bushings
14. 8/18/15 95,972 mi Alternator
15. 3/9/16 100,234 mi Expansion Tank/Valve Cover Gasket (2nd Time)
16. 11/23/16 105,044 mi Upper Radiator Hose
17. 3/30/17 106,453 mi DSC Control Unit
18. 8/5/17 107,794 mi Driver’s Air Bag
19. 12/14/17 110,381 mi PURCHASED CAR -- Starter Motor, Thermostat (2nd Time), Radiator, Hose from Cylinder Head to
Thermostat, Ignition Coils, Oil Pressure Switch, De-Carbon Intake Ports and Valves
20. 1/5/18 110,924 mi A/C Evaporator, Cowl Panel, Air Inlet Ducting
21. 11/17/18 114,193 mi Washer Pump/Filler Neck, Oil Filter Housing Gasket (3rd time), Oil Fill cap
22. 2/22/19 Washer pump grommet
23. 5/17/19 Final Stage Resistor DIY
24 9/28/19 117,978 mi. Blower Motor DIY
25 10/28/19 118,129 mi. Water Pump (2nd time), upper radiator hose, U shaped hose
26. 12/20/19 118,921 mi. Coolant hose from cylinder head to thermostat, Oil cooler

I will replace all the injectors with the new versions. What else can I replace that will give me the best chance of not getting stranded again? Camshaft or crankshaft position sensor? Some other sensor? IE what is likely to fail in a catastrophic fashion in the next 30,000 miles that I can replace now???

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Zone 5

I am super picky about maintaining my cars and I hate the idea of being stranded.... a couple of days ago I was driving down the highway and the motor started to run really rough and actually stalled at 60 mph.

I was able to restart the motor which was extremely lumpy and kept stalling but limped into a parking lot and had the car towed to a shop. It is a very good BMW indy.

Preliminary info suggests a bad injector. I plugged in Carly and got #1 and #3 misfire codes along with a "throttle angle -- manifold vacuum, correlation" code.

Car is a 2007 MT with MHD stage 1 installed. I bought it 3 years ago. It has 123,000 miles. All of the scheduled maintenance is up to date. Here is the unscheduled maintenance done:

Unscheduled Service
1. 11/3/08 24,499 mi High Pressure Fuel Pump
2. 5/13/09 31,915 mi Thermostat
3. 8/20/09 35,290 mi High Pressure Fuel Pump (2nd Time)
4. 3/22/10 41,665 mi Intake Silencer
5. 4/14/10 42,551 mi High Pressure Fuel Pump (3rd time)
6. 11/16/10 49,927 mi Both Turbos & Wastegate Actuators, Oil Filter Housing Gasket, Transmission Bearing & Fork
7. 9/29/12 67,010 mi Front Tension Strut Bushings, Power Steering Pump
8. 11/17/12 68,147 mi Vacuum Hoses
9. 6/3/13 73,720 mi Water Pump/Oil Filter Housing Gasket (2nd Time) and Oil Cooler Gasket
10. 9/24/13 76,957 mi Belt Tensioner, Pulleys, Fan Belt, Radiator Hose Upper/Lower
11. 10/14/13 77,540 mi Power Steering Pump Bolt Tightened/New Rear Sunshade
12. 1/15/14 80,414 mi Oil Pan Gasket
13. 2/18/15 91,695 mi Valve Cover Gasket
13. 5/18/15 93,370 mi Front Control Arm Bushings
14. 8/18/15 95,972 mi Alternator
15. 3/9/16 100,234 mi Expansion Tank/Valve Cover Gasket (2nd Time)
16. 11/23/16 105,044 mi Upper Radiator Hose
17. 3/30/17 106,453 mi DSC Control Unit
18. 8/5/17 107,794 mi Driver's Air Bag
19. 12/14/17 110,381 mi PURCHASED CAR -- Starter Motor, Thermostat (2nd Time), Radiator, Hose from Cylinder Head to
Thermostat, Ignition Coils, Oil Pressure Switch, De-Carbon Intake Ports and Valves
20. 1/5/18 110,924 mi A/C Evaporator, Cowl Panel, Air Inlet Ducting
21. 11/17/18 114,193 mi Washer Pump/Filler Neck, Oil Filter Housing Gasket (3rd time), Oil Fill cap
22. 2/22/19 Washer pump grommet
23. 5/17/19 Final Stage Resistor DIY
24 9/28/19 117,978 mi. Blower Motor DIY
25 10/28/19 118,129 mi. Water Pump (2nd time), upper radiator hose, U shaped hose
26. 12/20/19 118,921 mi. Coolant hose from cylinder head to thermostat, Oil cooler

I will replace all the injectors with the new versions. What else can I replace that will give me the best chance of not getting stranded again? Camshaft or crankshaft position sensor? Some other sensor? IE what is likely to fail in a catastrophic fashion in the next 30,000 miles that I can replace now???

- You could install a crank seal plate.

- I'd also look into an aluminum PS pulley.

- Install an aluminum coolant flange to the block on the OFH.

- Get ISTA D & P or get Bimmergeeks Protool on a Samsung Tab A tablet.

- Upgrade the engine mounts & trans mounts

- Turbo Solenoids

- Vanos Solenoids

- BMS Catch Can

- RB PCV valve & cap

- PCV vent hose

* start saving $$$ for new turbos

[Bimmer_Bro]

Do you have a aftermarket charge pipe or the stock plastic one? Check to see it it has popped off the throttle body or if you have the plastic one, it has probably exploded and cracked. (I Assume your shop would notice this?)
Those things are so weak, they need to be upgraded before any tuning.
Also have you done plugs and coils recently. 80% of misfire codes come those. They need to be replaced quite often when tuned.

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

- You could install a crank seal plate.

- I'd also look into an aluminum PS pulley.

- Install an aluminum coolant flange to the block on the OFH.

- Get ISTA D & P or get Bimmergeeks Protool on a Samsung Tab A tablet.

- Upgrade the engine mounts & trans mounts

- Turbo Solenoids

- Vanos Solenoids

- BMS Catch Can

- RB PCV valve & cap

- PCV vent hose

* start saving $$$ for new turbos

All this is what I personally planned for. Plus the CP as previously mentioned.

I also plan to change plugs every 10k-15k with the tune (just flashed MHD stage 1+ this weekend), possibly the coils too. How many miles do you have going on yours? Seems like around 12k or more from buzzing through your OP.

[Zone 5]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

All this is what I personally planned for. Plus the CP as previously mentioned.

I also plan to change plugs every 10k-15k with the tune (just flashed MHD stage 1+ this weekend), possibly the coils too. How many miles do you have going on yours? Seems like around 12k or more from buzzing through your OP.

I replaced the coils 12,000 miles ago. The plugs were done 30,000 miles ago.

I don't know about the charge pipe. I will check.

The shop just called and told me I had a bad injector (which was index 10.... surprised because there is no prior history to suggest they were not the original injectors, I figured they would be index 1) and recommended new ones for banks 1-3, along with a coil they said had gone bad, and all new plugs. I'm going to have all 6 injectors replaced with index 12.

Thanks for all the responses!

[fgpalmer71]

If you trust the shop implicitly then go ahead and good luck with it.

If you don't....... I'd swap out the coils and plugs before I dropped $1500 or more on injectors (sounds like your having this done and not doing it solo so I'm guessing they're going to hit you for at least that on 6 new injectors installed and coded). It might be a $250 problem (parts and you doing the labor) as opposed to a $2k problem!

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

All this is what I personally planned for. Plus the CP as previously mentioned.

I also plan to change plugs every 10k-15k with the tune (just flashed MHD stage 1+ this weekend), possibly the coils too. How many miles do you have going on yours? Seems like around 12k or more from buzzing through your OP.

I think if you have Eldor Coils with NKG one step colder plugs gapped at .022, you can probably change the plugs 15-20k.

The coils - maybe 50,000 miles; normally coils are good for 100,000 miles.

You could proactively change the mosfets in the DME

[Zone 5]

FG Palmer -- I do trust them and the car is already there. I can't do the work myself. If they were going to screw me they can do so any number of ways.

They have a really good reputation and I've done business with them for a long time. https://www.google.com/search?q=B+AN...778f25c289b3,1,,,

Besides, since I don't have the latest and most reliable injectors, I think it would be prudent to install the index 12 ones in either case.

I'm not really worried about the money (not that I don't want to conserve it), I am the type of person who could easily afford a new M4 every year but I prefer to drive older cars and maintain them to the nth degree.

[Zone 5]

mweisdorfer -- the last time I was stranded was with my 2001 X5 I've owned since new, in that case it was the crankshaft position sensor that gave almost the exact same symptoms as I just experienced in the 335i, would you recommend replacing that?

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I think if you have Eldor Coils with NKG one step colder plugs gapped at .022, you can probably change the plugs 15-20k.

The coils - maybe 50,000 miles; normally coils are good for 100,000 miles.

You could proactively change the mosfets in the DME

Good to know! I was confused about the Eldor/Delphi stuff. Some information stated that Eldor was the newest iteration and what was recommended, others opinion was Delphi. I went with the Delphi's and the NGK 1 step colder plugs from FCP. If we can run these coils for 50k miles then I'm much happier then before.

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by Zone 5

FG Palmer -- I do trust them and the car is already there. I can't do the work myself. If they were going to screw me they can do so any number of ways.

They have a really good reputation and I've done business with them for a long time. https://www.google.com/search?q=B+AN...778f25c289b3,1,,,

Besides, since I don't have the latest and most reliable injectors, I think it would be prudent to install the index 12 ones in either case.

I'm not really worried about the money (not that I don't want to conserve it), I am the type of person who could easily afford a new M4 every year but I prefer to drive older cars and maintain them to the nth degree.

I get it. Same here. If it were me I'd do all 6 coils, plugs AND injectors and be done with it. It's money I'm going to be spending anyway. I've grown to be weary of all shops over the years, dealers in particular. If it's something I can't or don't want to do I always scan my car before taking it in.

[kingcloudix]

Yeap like most said. Just upgrade the injectors and be done with it. Honestly feel like it solved most of my problems and I’ve only had them 2 days now. Going to finally get my emissions test done tomorrow. I’ve been chasing a lean code for almost 2 years. New PCV Valve and Injectors and no more SES light or codes. Cold start up smooth as butter.

Only suggestion I would have made is buying from FCP Euro for lifetime warranty.

[Zone 5]

The shop told me they buy direct from the local BMW dealer always and their charge including shop markup (I assume 25% or so) on the injectors was $333 per injector plus tax.

I asked them to buy from FCP euro and charge me their markup, because they are only $225 each there.

They said that was against their policy (??) but said I could buy them myself and they would just charge me labor. So that's what I did. Very nice of them to allow that.... many shops won't do that at all.

Maybe they're just showing their appreciation for the $$$ I've spent there over the years.....

I'm going to ask them to install all the other stuff you guys have mentioned while they're at it.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

Good to know! I was confused about the Eldor/Delphi stuff. Some information stated that Eldor was the newest iteration and what was recommended, others opinion was Delphi. I went with the Delphi's and the NGK 1 step colder plugs from FCP. If we can run these coils for 50k miles then I'm much happier then before.

Eldor coils are the best coils for the e90 under 600hp hands down IMO.

They are the latest update.

You didn't go wrong with what you got, don't get me wrong.

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Eldor coils are the best coils for the e90 under 600hp hands down IMO.

They are the latest update.

You didn't go wrong with what you got, don't get me wrong.

Curious what makes them the best? Just last longer when tuned ? I just assumed coils either worked or they didn't.
I have always used the Bosch ones but have been curious on the Eldors too.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Curious what makes them the best? Just last longer when tuned ? I just assumed coils either worked or they didn't.
I have always used the Bosch ones but have been curious on the Eldors too.

Latest revision, reliability, they tend to last longer. Delphi ones fine too.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Curious what makes them the best? Just last longer when tuned ? I just assumed coils either worked or they didn't.
I have always used the Bosch ones but have been curious on the Eldors too.

I too used Bosch until I tuned.

I did a lot of research. I have never seen any negative posts about Eldor coils. This is especially true when they are coupled with NKG one step or two step colder plugs "that are properly gapped"

The fact that Eldor coils are good until 600hp tells me they are vastly improved over previous versions of coils made for the N54.

[kingcloudix]

Originally Posted by Zone 5

The shop told me they buy direct from the local BMW dealer always and their charge including shop markup (I assume 25% or so) on the injectors was $333 per injector plus tax.

I asked them to buy from FCP euro and charge me their markup, because they are only $225 each there.

They said that was against their policy (??) but said I could buy them myself and they would just charge me labor. So that's what I did. Very nice of them to allow that.... many shops won't do that at all.

Maybe they're just showing their appreciation for the $$$ I've spent there over the years.....

I'm going to ask them to install all the other stuff you guys have mentioned while they're at it.

$333 per is insane. I am so glad they let you order your own. Yeah FCP Euro is def a no brainer when possible of course...especially for major repairs like this.

[fgpalmer71]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

I think if you have Eldor Coils with NKG one step colder plugs gapped at .022, you can probably change the plugs 15-20k.

The coils - maybe 50,000 miles; normally coils are good for 100,000 miles.

You could proactively change the mosfets in the DME

With regard to the mosfets preemptively being changed.....

Isn't that issue relegated to the pre-2009 cars? Definitely pertains to the OP. When researching pre-purchase I specifically wanted a 2009+ N54 for the oil cooler and the updated DME. My car is a 2009, do I need to worry about the mosfets too?

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by fgpalmer71

With regard to the mosfets preemptively being changed.....

Isn't that issue relegated to the pre-2009 cars? Definitely pertains to the OP. When researching pre-purchase I specifically wanted a 2009+ N54 for the oil cooler and the updated DME. My car is a 2009, do I need to worry about the mosfets too?

It is a MSD80 dme issue, which came in 2007 and 2008 I believe. 2009 should have a MSD81 DME which doesn't really have that issue.

[iqraceworks]

One thing you might want to replace if you haven't already are the two knock sensors on the block. They are cheap, and pretty easy to get to.

At around 100k miles, my car would randomly go into limp mode on the way to work on cold mornings....it kept throwing a knock sensor fault. It was a pain in the butt because I would have to pull over, plug in my phone with the OBD cable, and use MHD to clear the code....then all would be good for another week or two when it would randomly do it again.

At the advice of others on here...I finally replaced the knock sensors. Thousands of miles later....no more knock sensor faults. I must have had one sensor that was just throwing a weird signal that would trip the DME and trigger the knock sensor fault. It wouldn't have been too big of a deal if it didn't put the car into limp mode, and kill the power. And without MHD, i wasn't able to clear the code. So, I could see how that could really cause someone some issues.


Just a thought.....

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

One thing you might want to replace if you haven't already are the two knock sensors on the block. They are cheap, and pretty easy to get to.

At around 100k miles, my car would randomly go into limp mode on the way to work on cold mornings....it kept throwing a knock sensor fault. It was a pain in the butt because I would have to pull over, plug in my phone with the OBD cable, and use MHD to clear the code....then all would be good for another week or two when it would randomly do it again.

At the advice of others on here...I finally replaced the knock sensors. Thousands of miles later....no more knock sensor faults. I must have had one sensor that was just throwing a weird signal that would trip the DME and trigger the knock sensor fault. It wouldn't have been too big of a deal if it didn't put the car into limp mode, and kill the power. And without MHD, i wasn't able to clear the code. So, I could see how that could really cause someone some issues.


Just a thought.....

I wouldn't waste the money unless there's an issue. 220k on stock knock sensors with no issues.