[feuer]

Originally Posted by buster84

How many miles are on your car? If over 100k I'd buy some IS motor mounts and install those since the motor mounts are known to fail which affects the alightment of everything.

22116793240 - driver side
22116760330 - passenger side

Genuine BMW IS mounts will cost you $$ for a proper upgrade. So if you dont go that way, some new ones or aftermarket should work. With upgraded turbos and track visits having good motor mounts is a must, any deviation in the engines alignment from all that power shreds belts.

No need for IS mounts. Regular will suffice. Just install washer/spacer between engine mount bracket and the mount on driver side.

[buster84]

Originally Posted by feuer

No need for IS mounts. Regular will suffice. Just install washer/spacer between engine mount bracket and the mount on driver side.

Hmm never heard of that. Has any vender/tuner or bmw website or do a comparison with a mount upgraded vs the washer/spacer? I cant imagine that is all that's needed and doesnt sound right to me, but who knows. I wouldnt do it myself without dedicated proof that is all you need. Shredding belts is far more expensive over time vs a $250 mount.

[ajsmithvmi]

I decided instead of adding a big turbo I'll add two whole cylinders.

LS1 is getting built over the fall and swap is happening during the winter.

[addictedtoboost]

Originally Posted by buster84

which part numbers did you buy? The reason people get the is mounts on the right side is because the increased torque from high hp causes the engine to shift and the is mounts hold the engine in place better. How much power are you pushing now?

I just edited my other post as you replied. I found it here for $240 at ecs. Its mostly just a right side upgrade, the left side doesnt need it.

cto-80001074
cto-80000693

[buster84]

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

cto-80001074
cto-80000693

I'm not familiar with that brand. Since there new they are more than likely fine unless one randomly became defective.

I found someone with a similar issue, maybe his issue is like yours?

https://my1series.com/2015/03/23/bmw...e-belt-issues/

[feuer]

Originally Posted by buster84

Hmm never heard of that. Has any vender/tuner or bmw website or do a comparison with a mount upgraded vs the washer/spacer? I cant imagine that is all that's needed and doesnt sound right to me, but who knows. I wouldnt do it myself without dedicated proof that is all you need. Shredding belts is far more expensive over time vs a $250 mount.

Comparison and dedicated proof? I'm sorry, but have to tell you that your expectations are little unrealistic. Is simple physics. Look up images of broken PS pulley, you will see the damage is minimal. Few millimeters. Adding a washer/spacer will remedy this even with old worn out mounts. Engine will sit higher on the driver side, further away from the subframe.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by addictedtoboost

Okay I found the reason why this is happening, The 2" VRSF silicone inlets I have installed the front one is making contact with 2 of the rollers/pullys causing the belt the come off track and shread up. I have read a few posts about people using zip ties and pulling it away from the rollers by tying it to the radiator shroud. I am not sure how strong or long plastic zip ties will last but I need to find a pernament solution to this as I can not afford to have another belt get chewed up leaving me stranded waiting for a flatbed tow. My other option I think is to buy a different brand of 2" silicone inlets such as Vargas branded ones I hear don't have any issues with rubbing or contact with the pullys. Would you have any other suggestions?

I could see that. I have 1.75" silicone inlets and there is not much room for error really. 2" ouch

[mweisdorfer]

Maybe look into 2" Aluminum inlets. The diameter will not be nearly as wide as a silicone inlet

Not sure why peeps get such a hard-on for the IS mounts...I installed a new "stock" mount and new IS mount ~50k miles ago; both have worn at the same rate and feel like they are in desperate need of replacement (total miles on car = ~117k). Even though this car is driven granny style 99% of the time there is a lot of slop in both mounts currently.

Next set of mounts going in will likely be a "street friendly" aftermarket offering.

[ajsmithvmi]

I've had decent luck with the 034s. my belt snap was not due to subframe contact as far as I can tell, the pulley is intact.

the next set of mounts I'll be using will be Turner solid aluminum. the car never sees the street.

[RJC612]

I also have 034's in both of my E9X cars and they have worked great for me. Fitment spot on and almost no increase in nvh even though they are solid rubber

[ajsmithvmi]

Finally had time to drop the subframe and the oil pan. I found small pieces of belt in the pan, and longer strands in the oil pickup tube filter.

Keep in mind from my original picture of the seal, there's not a lot of damage. But it didn't take much for pieces of belt to find their way into the pickup, and the strands were already partial past the filter screen.

[krautboy]

My '07 335i MT just had its belt shred. Drove it five miles not knowing that the belt could be ingested. My seal looks like OPs. I'm shopping for all the seals and crank shaft pulley seal puller now. Probably going to get the plate to prevent this happening again. Really disappointed in this design though. I did the valve cover gasket a couple years back so I'm already familiar with that job just not happy to have to do it again. My oil pan is leaking and I'm on the original motor mounts so I'm going to do those too. Anyone have any advice? I've been watching youtube and reading the forums. I'm really only nervous about breaking the oil pan bolts and that the engine was already damaged/not getting all the fragments out. Alas, the 335i private party value is $6700 so it's not like it's a $25k car anymore and engine failure would be a donate to charity kind of event.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by krautboy

My '07 335i MT just had its belt shred. Drove it five miles not knowing that the belt could be ingested. My seal looks like OPs. I'm shopping for all the seals and crank shaft pulley seal puller now. Probably going to get the plate to prevent this happening again. Really disappointed in this design though. I did the valve cover gasket a couple years back so I'm already familiar with that job just not happy to have to do it again. My oil pan is leaking and I'm on the original motor mounts so I'm going to do those too. Anyone have any advice? I've been watching youtube and reading the forums. I'm really only nervous about breaking the oil pan bolts and that the engine was already damaged/not getting all the fragments out. Alas, the 335i private party value is $6700 so it's not like it's a $25k car anymore and engine failure would be a donate to charity kind of event.

Get an aluminum Pwr Steering pulley.

MAKE SURE YOU PUT SOME MOTOR OIL ON THE CRANK BEFORE YOU PRESS THE NEW SEAL IN.

If you don't know how old the pulleys & belt are, replace them. $130.00 kit at FCP

Use Ultra Grey in the key slots & caulk around the gasket while it's in the hole, but before you press it in. Caulk around the seal once you have put into to place.

Allow Ultra Grey to cure for 24 hours before you start the engine

Motor Mounts - get Turner Poly 60a

You can run the engine with out the belt & harmonic pulley on. You just need a 30amp battery maintainer, at a bare minimum. Run the engine for 20 min or so and make sure you don't have any leaks before you put it all back together.

[feuer]

How is aluminum pulley better than plastic pulley?

[Jeef]

I would just use BMW sealant for front crank seal. these things never really leak unless they get damaged. 24 hour wait time is a long time for that other stuff.

I dont see a difference between using plastic vs aluminum pulley. if either were to touch the subframe it would not end well.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Jeef

I would just use BMW sealant for front crank seal. these things never really leak unless they get damaged. 24 hour wait time is a long time for that other stuff.

I dont see a difference between using plastic vs aluminum pulley. if either were to touch the subframe it would not end well.

BMW sealant is a complete PITA.

I've used ultra Grey. Easy to use w/ no issues getting the sealant out of the tube. I can't say that about the BMW sealant that comes is a syringe with no plunger & no needle... I guess you can order the needle separately, but you can't order a plunger. 🤔

My thought on an aluminum pulley is that it might dent and throw the belt off should it hit the subframe, but at least it wouldn't chip & crack and shred the belt to be sucked into the crank seal.