[ky0u]

I'm in the process of a suspension refresh and was wondering if there are any conflicts that may arise from using m3 control arms in terms of coilover/strut selections

[Js235]

no, you wont have any limitation when you upgrade your control arms

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by ky0u

I'm in the process of a suspension refresh and was wondering if there are any conflicts that may arise from using m3 control arms in terms of coilover/strut selections

You'll have more available camber. That's a good thing, and camber plates are an effective add-on for more. Assuming you're doing all paws, you'll be installing M3 rear camber arm?

What are your criteria for dampers & springs?

[ky0u]

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

You'll have more available camber. That's a good thing, and camber plates are an effective add-on for more. Assuming you're doing all paws, you'll be installing M3 rear camber arm?

What are your criteria for dampers & springs?

That's the idea yea. I don't have solid figures for criteria yet, just doing fairly surface research about the diff parts i'll want to change out. That's the main reason I posted, didn't wanna get too far researching a particular kit and then find out 'X' set up doesnt work with m3 control arms, but thats really good to know. The m3 stuff is something I really want to do specifically for the improved camber

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ky0u

I'm in the process of a suspension refresh and was wondering if there are any conflicts that may arise from using m3 control arms in terms of coilover/strut selections

If you go with B12 Kit & Eibach swaybars coupled with an M3 control arm kit, you'll be 75% there in terms of having a suspension that's second to none for street use and spirited driving.

[thormessiah]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you go with B12 Kit & Eibach swaybars coupled with an M3 control arm kit, you'll be 75% there in terms of having a suspension that's second to none for street use and spirited driving.

Would you say the bilstein b12 is superior to Koni yellows with Eibach springs?

[IllSic_Design]

If you are talking just front control arms, then M3 wont affect shock/damper choices. If you are talking about the M3 rear lower control arm(that the spring and damper mount to) then you would have to run M3 rear shocks as the lower mount is different.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by thormessiah

Would you say the bilstein b12 is superior to Koni yellows with Eibach springs?

Yes, because the Eibach springs are "tuned" to the Bilstein B8's that the Kit comes with as are the Eibach swaybars. That is not the case with the Koni yellows. The Koni yellows are a nice shock & strut don't get me wrong. You'd need to find a set of springs that are tuned to the Koni yellows to make an apples to apples comparison.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

If you are talking just front control arms, then M3 wont affect shock/damper choices. If you are talking about the M3 rear lower control arm(that the spring and damper mount to) then you would have to run M3 rear shocks as the lower mount is different.

+1

[J0K3R5]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you go with B12 Kit & Eibach swaybars coupled with an M3 control arm kit, you'll be 75% there in terms of having a suspension that's second to none for street use and spirited driving.

Whats the other 25%, after you have done all the above ?

[E92only]

Originally Posted by J0K3R5

Whats the other 25%, after you have done all the above ?

subframe bushings, upper/lower mount bushings, toe links, LSD, different compound tires, and detachable steering wheel

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by J0K3R5

Whats the other 25%, after you have done all the above ?

M3 subframe bushings & M3 differential bushings in the rear subframe.

It's also worth noting that when you go to a B12 lowering kit, you should absolutely install adjustable swaybar links.

[ky0u]

Great info here. I'm taking notes and dousing my wallet in lighter fluid since i'm about to burn tf out of it

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ky0u

Great info here. I'm taking notes and dousing my wallet in lighter fluid since i'm about to burn tf out of it

Depending on how old your suspension is in the rear, you might consider replacing all the various ball joints and the like.


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...33326763092kt/


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/33312284019/

In such case, it's easier to take the subframe out of the car and work on it that way.

Tools - make your own.

Use: black pipe - grade 8 threaded rod : 1/2 in diameter, grade 8 nuts & washers always have a back up rod per tool!!

You will need two different size black pipes. I think 2" is one.

[ky0u]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Depending on how old your suspension is in the rear, you might consider replacing all the various ball joints and the like.


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...33326763092kt/


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/33312284019/

its all the original components with 114k miles, so yea I am. but regarding the diff carrier, I'm planning on upgrading to an LSD at some point, are there variances in this bushing depending on hardware? If so i might just hold off on that and do it at once with LSD

[E92only]

Good on you for thinking ahead. I bet a lot of us can't say that about ourselves

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ky0u

its all the original components with 114k miles, so yea I am. but regarding the diff carrier, I'm planning on upgrading to an LSD at some point, are there variances in this bushing depending on hardware? If so i might just hold off on that and do it at once with LSD

No. The hardware for the LSD would be the exact same. Even if you did an M3 conversion LSD, it would be the same. In thot DIY, you still retain the OEM subframe.

All other LSD DIY's use the exact same pumpkin. You are just changing the gearing inside the pumpkin.

[flip4335]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

No. The hardware for the LSD would be the exact same. Even if you did an M3 conversion LSD, it would be the same. In thot DIY, you still retain the OEM subframe.

All other LSD DIY's use the exact same pumpkin. You are just changing the gearing inside the pumpkin.

Here are a few things you might want to read to better understand M3 suspension bits, LSD information, and whatnot.

Quaife Review: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311570

Suspension: (I was inspired by CALWaterBoy and Speediance)

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=330347

http://www.ground-control-store.com/.../II=903/CA=172

Hope they help!

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

If you are talking just front control arms, then M3 wont affect shock/damper choices. If you are talking about the M3 rear lower control arm(that the spring and damper mount to) then you would have to run M3 rear shocks as the lower mount is different.

I run Koni Yellows on M3 rear camber arms - did Ground Control provide a special mount? Part of their street/school kit - highly recommended.

To that added Wavetrac LSD, camber plates and replaced all other arms w/M3. Result: Unlimited grip and utterly linear handling but also much more linear power delivery. Asked for comfortable street ride - got that too. Huge upgrade from stock.

[ky0u]

Originally Posted by E92only

Good on you for thinking ahead. I bet a lot of us can't say that about ourselves

Been in the game a while, shot myself too many times in the foot diving into projects without proper planning. Nothing sucks as much as being elbows deep in a task and finding out you overlooked something that brings everything to a halt

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

If you go with B12 Kit & Eibach swaybars coupled with an M3 control arm kit, you'll be 75% there in terms of having a suspension that's second to none for street use and spirited driving.

Circling back to this, would you recommend the Pro or sportline kit? Is the sportline stiffness unforgiving in daily driving?

While I do want a nice performance bump, I also don't want a no compromise approach and still want to retain some of the ride comfort. I have an e30 that I've given gokart handling to. While it's fun, my back hates me on longer drives.
The plan for my e92 is to be more of a GT car that I can hop into when I wanna i wanna cruise and chill out but still be planted and eat turns

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by ky0u

Been in the game a while, shot myself too many times in the foot diving into projects without proper planning. Nothing sucks as much as being elbows deep in a task and finding out you overlooked something that brings everything to a halt

Circling back to this, would you recommend the Pro or sportline kit? Is the sportline stiffness unforgiving in daily driving?

While I do want a nice performance bump, I also don't want a no compromise approach and still want to retain some of the ride comfort. I have an e30 that I've given gokart handling to. While it's fun, my back hates me on longer drives.
The plan for my e92 is to be more of a GT car that I can hop into when I wanna i wanna cruise and chill out but still be planted and eat turns

If you:

1) B12 kit
2) M3 control arms (F&R)
3) Eibach swaybars
4) M3 differential & subframe bushings
5) Hotchkiss adjustable swaybar links
5) Meyle HD Tie Rods

Plus Redo the rest of the various bushings/ control arms of the rear subframe.

I think you will have a very nice set up that will corner on a dime, but not be too rough for a DD.

[Torgus]

Get solid subframe bushings in the back no NVH. If you go solid diff you will get diff whine.

Use m3 rear arms all around including the rear if you want the 'best' rear suspension setup. You can switch every bushing out to sealed ball joints on top of that.

All coilovers reviewed and ranked: google: "Top Coilovers for the BMW 3 Series E90/E92 - Mod"

What I did if you want to see what all the parts look like stock and aftermarket: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...5#post25439025