[VFitzyR]

Having the same annoying problem with my 07 335i (111K miles). Just replaced the front rotors(Power Stop slotted/drilled) and ceramic pads all around. This helped, but I still get the shake when braking at highway speed. When switching over from winter to summer wheels/tires yesterday, I noticed that I could feel the front brake pads making contact periodically when spinning the wheel. I suspect this points to warped rotors since I cleaned the hubs before putting the rotors on and the wheels were bolted down. The next step for me is to bring the new rotors to be resurfaced. The car is so nice, except for the brake vibration.

[SwissCheeseHead]

Bumping this thread up. I've been noticing this on my 2011 328i with 50K miles on it. Just doing a bit of research before I start replacing parts. Any help would be appreciated!

[electriCK]

I'm at 55K miles and had similar issues. For me swapping out the rotors and pads resolved the issue.

[SwissCheeseHead]

Originally Posted by dmv-ck

I'm at 55K miles and had similar issues. For me swapping out the rotors and pads resolved the issue.

That was my first thought, but after reading this thread, it seems like that might not be the case. It's probably due for a brake job anyway, even though the warning light has not come up from the brakes already.

What did you end up using for brake parts? I was thinking about just getting OE replacement rotors and ceramic pads.

[electriCK]

Originally Posted by SwissCheeseHead

That was my first thought, but after reading this thread, it seems like that might not be the case. It's probably due for a brake job anyway, even though the warning light has not come up from the brakes already.

What did you end up using for brake parts? I was thinking about just getting OE replacement rotors and ceramic pads.

I ended up getting meyle rotors and pagid red pads. OEM replacement would be fine as well - it all depends on your budget.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by dmv-ck

I ended up getting meyle rotors and pagid red pads. OEM replacement would be fine as well - it all depends on your budget.

Hopefully the Mayle rotors will be trouble free!
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...55&postcount=3

[neverdone]

This must be a known issue by now. The amount of people experiencing the exact same issue at the exact same speed and all the necessary fixes makes me wonder.

My 2011 335 xDrive has done the same thing since I bought it. It goes away when speed drops to about 40mph.

[SwissCheeseHead]

Originally Posted by dmv-ck

I ended up getting meyle rotors and pagid red pads. OEM replacement would be fine as well - it all depends on your budget.

Just want to be able to brake without vibrations. It's my wife's DD.

Originally Posted by feuer

Hopefully the Mayle rotors will be trouble free!
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...55&postcount=3

Dead link

Originally Posted by neverdone

This must be a known issue by now. The amount of people experiencing the exact same issue at the exact same speed and all the necessary fixes makes me wonder.

My 2011 335 xDrive has done the same thing since I bought it. It goes away when speed drops to about 40mph.

If it's a brake issue, then it's a wear issue, and BMW won't do anything about that. The big question is why there are so many different fixes for a similar problem. I'll probably do this in a month or so. I'll update when it's done.

[SwissCheeseHead]

Just to update, I ordered a rotor and pad kit from Rock Auto, and did all four rotors and pads, last weekend. Did a pad bed-in and the vibrations seem to be gone. The car had 50K miles on them. There was still a lot of pad material on the old pads though but I'm glad it fixed the vibrations.

[fmzip]

chasing shimmy issues is not fun!

On my E39 I literally replaced EVERY front end part and still had the shimmy. Turned out to be a bad rear tire.

[new0rder]

very interesting, My 325xi got 87000 miles on it, and I changed the brakes 2.5 years ago. and at 55+ mph it vibrates when braking, but at lower step 40mph- is ok. I will try to replace the front rotors see how it goes.

[Dommyem]

I have this issue (2007 335i 90k). Braking from 100 down to 70 seems to give the worst vibrations. I cant really notice much vibration under 50. I have had new discs all round, new pads, new bushes, all 4 wheels balanced, and still have the issue. My mechanic is getting despondent with the issue and it's really frustrating that we cannot solve it.

[E90Graphite07]

Originally Posted by Dommyem

I have this issue (2007 335i 90k). Braking from 100 down to 70 seems to give the worst vibrations. I cant really notice much vibration under 50. I have had new discs all round, new pads, new bushes, all 4 wheels balanced, and still have the issue. My mechanic is getting despondent with the issue and it's really frustrating that we cannot solve it.

Wheel(s) may be bent or out-of-round, bad wheel bearing/axle, defective tire (sidewall bubble, etc.); was it road-force balanced? Do the vibrations happen while braking? What shakes, the pedal and/or steering wheel?

[Dlasko71]

I too am having this issue...again. (11' 328i 52k). Roughly 20k miles ago I started feeling a vibration in the wheel when braking from 100 down but not below 40. As you can imagine it's pretty f'n scary to have a shaky wheel when braking at 90mph. Not cool. I took it to the dealership and it ended up being a bad thrust rod bearing. $413 later (not covered under CPO) at the stealership and this solved the problem. Andddd now it's back. My rear brakes do need changed soon and the front rotors do have some gouging so it could very well be this. Making an appt with the dealership to have it checked out see what the deal is. If it's a faulty bearing again, I'm hoping to make a case for faulty parts. Will update when I find out what's going on.

[squixs]

Experiencing the exact same thing. Went through 1 set of brembo rotors+pads and one oem set. Still vibrating in speeds >80kmh

[chatch10]

Sorry, I don't know if you've gotten this resolved, but I was in the same boat for a long time. I got new rims and tires, alignment, and brakes checked. I had the dealership look over the front end suspension very closely and the thrust arm bushings were a little cracked so I had them replaced and everything feels great again.

[Smoothound]

I wanted to share this with you as I can't find the last post I was reading on this subject (was a couple of years back).

I've suffered brake judder since I had the car. So, four years or so. All the usual suspects have been serviced, replaced, checked, lubed. Still had brake judder.

It miraculous went away the first drive after getting an EGR bypass. I can only assume the vac pressure system used for the EGR is somehow linked to the brake vaccuum somewhere. I've waited some time before posting this as I know it sounds rediculous and didn't want to get flamed. But if those systems are linked then it's feasible. For sure, this problem has not come back since the bypass.

So anyway, if you've tried everything and still have judder. Try the EGR bypass (or just remove and block the ECP for a while and see if that helps).

I re-itereate, I've had this problem for several years and it went away immediately after bypassing EGR.

Hope this helps someone else!

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by Aperture

I've searched the forums and I havent found a situation exactly like mine, so here goes, hope someone can help.

I have a 2006 325i with 61k miles. About a year ago and some 12k miles I started to feel a vibration while braking from speeds above 55mph. I immediately thought it was warped rotors. I didnt do anything about it at the time because it wasnt that bad.

Now I'm 2 weeks away from doing my first HPDE, so I decided to change the rotors and pads thinking this was the issue. I went with premium centric rotors and cool carbon pads. The vibration is still there!

I took it to my indi and he thinks it may be the upper control arm bushings. Really? So these failed at around 50k miles? Sounds premature. But he tells me that there isnt a sure fire way of testing the bushings for failure, so we'd have to replace them in the hopes that this is indeed the issue. And if that doesnt fix it, look at other possible causes and replace those parts. This is going to get super expensive quick.

I read that some people had similar issues, and that an alignment fixed the problem. My car tracks straight so I dont see how it could be an alignment issue, but is it possible any way?

I'm running out of time as I want this sorted out before my HPDE and would like some input. Please help!

Mine failed at 65K.

[The Chaddening]

I started experiencing this issue a couple weeks ago, only happens to me when braking from exiting the interstate. Took it to a shop and they told me that the rotors/pads need to be replaced. Should I go ahead and replace these or try something else first?

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by GirthBrooks

I started experiencing this issue a couple weeks ago, only happens to me when braking from exiting the interstate. Took it to a shop and they told me that the rotors/pads need to be replaced. Should I go ahead and replace these or try something else first?

It's not the pads/rotors/
if they have deposits brake hard a few times.

Take a look at this before you replace the pads/rotors:
http://stoptech.com/technical-suppor...nd-other-myths

[The Chaddening]

Originally Posted by techwhiz

It's not the pads/rotors/
if they have deposits brake hard a few times.

Take a look at this before you replace the pads/rotors:
http://stoptech.com/technical-suppor...nd-other-myths

Pretty good read. The mechanic showed me black spots on my rotors and said "This is why you are experiencing the vibration". Are these the deposits you are referring to?

[abed]

I want to share my story for others who might have the same issue, I hope it helps with diagnosing someone's issue. I own a 2008 328Xi with manual transmission.

When I bought the car I had the famous AWD problem and all the brake pads and rotors needed replacing. After fixing the AWD problem by replacing the worm gear and replacing all the brake pads and rotors I realized that the car would make a very harsh vibration at sudden braking with frequent knocking noise. Also the car felt like it did not have a shock absorber, it was very hard on bumps and you would hear a little knocking noise when going on small bumps on low speed.

It did not have any of these issues before fixing those problems or at least I did not realize it, so at first I thought the rotor is to blame because it was not the expensive brand, I replaced it with the old ones and I felt less vibration and noise but still there was some of that noise. After couple of times of testing it I came to realize that the front CV axle splashed all the grease out of the boot on the passenger side, so I thought it is bad even though it did not have any excess play in it and did not make any weird noise on turning; so I ordered a new CV axle, but it popped out because it was too short. After opening the old CV axle I realized it did not have any excess wear on the interior bearings so I refilled the grease and tightened the bracket and put it back on, but the issue was still there. I checked all the suspension parts and there was no visible problem with any of them until by chance I saw a hole on the passenger side engine support without any bolt in it! Then I saw another hole with a broken bolt head inside of it and so on! Three of the bolts were broken and one was missing, fortunately I was able to remove the bolt heads using my finger and patience after removing the engine support! I have not replaced the bolts yet, but I am 99.99% sure that this is the issue.
I will make an update once I replace the engine support bolts.