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      12-27-2018, 08:35 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
So I've read over this DIY a few times and I'm trying to understand the significance of installing the Sonnax kit, is it an upgrade over stock? I have a 08 335i that is doing all kinds of wacky things that resulted in me having to trailer it home because it kept giving me and error code then jumping out of gear.

To me it makes sense for the solenoids to be bad along with the seal sleeves and seal adapter. From my understand the trans has never been serviced and has 160k on it.
The Sonnex kit replaces wear components in the valve body(pistons, seals, springs, etc) My assessment is they are higher quality than stock (metal vice plastic, etc). Wrt solenoids, I just figured 150k was a good time to replace everything. If you are getting codes that narrows it down. I would research that code. Also, the Sonnex instructions include helpful notes on what part of the valve body affects a specific issue. You should be able to DL the PDF and see if something in the valve body is the issue. HTH.
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      12-27-2018, 12:17 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
So I've read over this DIY a few times and I'm trying to understand the significance of installing the Sonnax kit, is it an upgrade over stock? I have a 08 335i that is doing all kinds of wacky things that resulted in me having to trailer it home because it kept giving me and error code then jumping out of gear.

To me it makes sense for the solenoids to be bad along with the seal sleeves and seal adapter. From my understand the trans has never been serviced and has 160k on it.
Here are the highlights from what kit the will help with. IMHO the installation is worth the trouble.
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      01-06-2019, 04:41 PM   #69
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I sent the valvebody to get rebuild by and independent rebuilder. Do I need to do the relearn as well?

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      01-06-2019, 04:48 PM   #70
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I sent valvebody to get rebuild by and independent rebuilder. Do I need to do the relearn as well?
Yes. You are going to have new tolerances and resistance in the valve body. Resetting Adaptations and doing at least some of the "learn" driving procedure will minimize wear and any jerkiness you might get while your TCU learns the new tolerances.
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      01-06-2019, 08:12 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Yes. You are going to have new tolerances and resistance in the valve body. Resetting Adaptations and doing at least some of the "learn" driving procedure will minimize wear and any jerkiness you might get while your TCU learns the new tolerances.
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      01-13-2019, 11:22 AM   #72
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So....I don't know if I missed something but I got everything back together and put fluid in to begin the fill procedure......but the car won't start.

I push the button and everything turns on as if its going to start but nothing. Has anyone experienced this before? Car fired up with no problem prior to the service.

I'm also having a hell of a time trying to get these adaptions reset, software isn't acting right.
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      01-13-2019, 01:34 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
So....I don't know if I missed something but I got everything back together and put fluid in to begin the fill procedure......but the car won't start.

I push the button and everything turns on as if its going to start but nothing. Has anyone experienced this before? Car fired up with no problem prior to the service.

I'm also having a hell of a time trying to get these adaptions reset, software isn't acting right.
I would pull codes. Just guessing on the limited information you posted but it may be the TCU connection...there may be a safety that prevents engine start if the ECU doesn't see the TCU. It also may be why the software cannot connect (I assume INPA?)
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      01-13-2019, 07:48 PM   #74
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The code I pulled is P0706 (pending code)....

I was able to get the INPA software connected and reset the adaptions.

From what I can find this code has something to do with the gear selection.

I don't know what I missed but its taking this thread off track, my apologies. I'm going to have to do somemore homework, I feel this is something simple that I moved on the valve body.

I also never did opened the valve body, only changed the solenoids and seals.
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      01-13-2019, 10:34 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
The code I pulled is P0706 (pending code)....

I was able to get the INPA software connected and reset the adaptions.

From what I can find this code has something to do with the gear selection.

I don't know what I missed but its taking this thread off track, my apologies. I'm going to have to do somemore homework, I feel this is something simple that I moved on the valve body.

I also never did opened the valve body, only changed the solenoids and seals.
The TCU comms is actually a good thing. I googled that code.

https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0706/

The good news is that it is a generic code, and I suspect it is what is keeping the car from starting. Here is why. From that page:

"The Transmission Range Sensor is also sometimes called Park/Neutral switch or Safety switch. It communicates with the vehicle’s transmission control module and PCM, and is attached to the manual valve of transmission."

It also indicates this for a possible fault which I think it helpful: "Faulty manual shift valve linkage".

Here's why.

Look at this doc and pics on page 6.

http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf

Did you verify your selector valve alignment was correct? I have an M-shift and I suspect you do as well, and you have to make sure it lines up correctly as you install the bolts (the lever should have been left in Park and you align the rod, lever, and the plastic piece when you bolt up the valve body). I suspect if this isn't correct, the car won't know you are in Park...which I believe is what the code is saying, if I am reading it correctly. Unfortunately, you will have to drain and remove the pan to check. I bought a new plastic gas container and used it for reclaiming my ATF when I was dealing with my issue so it would l be a less expensive decision to drain and refill.

HTH and YMMV.
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      01-14-2019, 07:00 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
So....I don't know if I missed something but I got everything back together and put fluid in to begin the fill procedure......but the car won't start.

I push the button and everything turns on as if its going to start but nothing. Has anyone experienced this before? Car fired up with no problem prior to the service.

I'm also having a hell of a time trying to get these adaptions reset, software isn't acting right.
I would pull codes. Just guessing on the limited information you posted but it may be the TCU connection...there may be a safety that prevents engine start if the ECU doesn't see the TCU. It also may be why the software cannot connect (I assume INPA?)
I did not have an issue with starting up the car.
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      01-14-2019, 07:05 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
The code I pulled is P0706 (pending code)....

I was able to get the INPA software connected and reset the adaptions.

From what I can find this code has something to do with the gear selection.

I don't know what I missed but its taking this thread off track, my apologies. I'm going to have to do somemore homework, I feel this is something simple that I moved on the valve body.

I also never did opened the valve body, only changed the solenoids and seals.
The TCU comms is actually a good thing. I googled that code.

https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0706/

The good news is that it is a generic code, and I suspect it is what is keeping the car from starting. Here is why. From that page:

"The Transmission Range Sensor is also sometimes called Park/Neutral switch or Safety switch. It communicates with the vehicle's transmission control module and PCM, and is attached to the manual valve of transmission."

It also indicates this for a possible fault which I think it helpful: "Faulty manual shift valve linkage".

Here's why.

Look at this doc and pics on page 6.

http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/thectsc_mechatronic_replacement.pdf

Did you verify your selector valve alignment was correct? I have an M-shift and I suspect you do as well, and you have to make sure it lines up correctly as you install the bolts (the lever should have been left in Park and you align the rod, lever, and the plastic piece when you bolt up the valve body). I suspect if this isn't correct, the car won't know you are in Park...which I believe is what the code is saying, if I am reading it correctly. Unfortunately, you will have to drain and remove the pan to check. I bought a new plastic gas container and used it for reclaiming my ATF when I was dealing with my issue so it would l be a less expensive decision to drain and refill.

HTH and YMMV.
I agree. See this....
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0706
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      01-15-2019, 08:07 AM   #78
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You guys are seriously a life saver! That was the problem and it was clear as day once I took the pan off.

I simply loosened the valve body bolts and slide the rod were it needed to be, put everything back together and filled it up.

Andy- Once you posted that link and I read page 6 I knew I screwed up cause I didn't even pay attention to it, nor did any DIY I studied showed emphasis on aligning that rod to the linkage.

Thank you again
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      01-15-2019, 07:42 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
You guys are seriously a life saver! That was the problem and it was clear as day once I took the pan off.

I simply loosened the valve body bolts and slide the rod were it needed to be, put everything back together and filled it up.

Andy- Once you posted that link and I read page 6 I knew I screwed up cause I didn't even pay attention to it, nor did any DIY I studied showed emphasis on aligning that rod to the linkage.

Thank you again
Glad that was it! Happy I could help.
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      01-15-2019, 07:54 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
You guys are seriously a life saver! That was the problem and it was clear as day once I took the pan off.

I simply loosened the valve body bolts and slide the rod were it needed to be, put everything back together and filled it up.

Andy- Once you posted that link and I read page 6 I knew I screwed up cause I didn't even pay attention to it, nor did any DIY I studied showed emphasis on aligning that rod to the linkage.

Thank you again
Awesome. I will go back and bold the alignment of the notch to the mechatronic. I did discuss this in step 17.
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      01-17-2019, 06:22 AM   #81
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Just reporting back guys....

Trans still acting up but now I've been able to isolate it to a single code of P17E8 which is exactly where I'm experiencing trouble....3-4 gears

So I have a few options....
- rebuild the valve body with the Sonnax Kit and hope that fixes it
- buy a used trans and install it myself
- Just take it to trans shop and have it rebuilt

I'm not new to BMW's and repair work but I'm fairly new to these E90s.
You guys may feel with confidence that the problem is in the valve body and my optimism, time and wallet will gladly believe that.

Please let me know yor thoughts.
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      01-17-2019, 08:31 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
Just reporting back guys....

Trans still acting up but now I've been able to isolate it to a single code of P17E8 which is exactly where I'm experiencing trouble....3-4 gears

So I have a few options....
- rebuild the valve body with the Sonnax Kit and hope that fixes it
- buy a used trans and install it myself
- Just take it to trans shop and have it rebuilt

I'm not new to BMW's and repair work but I'm fairly new to these E90s.
You guys may feel with confidence that the problem is in the valve body and my optimism, time and wallet will gladly believe that.

Please let me know yor thoughts.
Can you tell us what is exactly going on with the gear shift from 3-4 that is causing the code?
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      01-17-2019, 09:29 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
Just reporting back guys....

Trans still acting up but now I've been able to isolate it to a single code of P17E8 which is exactly where I'm experiencing trouble....3-4 gears

So I have a few options....
- rebuild the valve body with the Sonnax Kit and hope that fixes it
- buy a used trans and install it myself
- Just take it to trans shop and have it rebuilt

I'm not new to BMW's and repair work but I'm fairly new to these E90s.
You guys may feel with confidence that the problem is in the valve body and my optimism, time and wallet will gladly believe that.

Please let me know yor thoughts.
If you are comfortable doing repair work, I'd do the Sonnex kit and separator plate. Not expensive compared to the cost of a replacement tranny or complete rebuild. Code seems to indicate solenoid could be an issue also, but you replaced that. Did you also replace the foam separator? Worst case, you have a mechanical issue with the actual clutch pack.
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      01-18-2019, 08:24 AM   #84
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The most notable thing is the shift from 3-4, it flares up and shifts hard, then off course it goes into limp mode. Sometimes in 3rd it feels like the pressure to the cluthes is intermittent causing it to jerk.

It regards to the repairs done, I replaced all the soleniods, foam piece, pan w/filter and of course the fluid.

It should also be noted that the old fluid, which I was told never was changed, looked like Yoohoo chocolate milk (sorry for the reference but its the best comparison).

For me it would make sense for the valve body to need rebuilding with the Sonnax kit as the other gears shift fine and grab like they should.
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      01-18-2019, 05:10 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metallizer View Post
The most notable thing is the shift from 3-4, it flares up and shifts hard, then off course it goes into limp mode. Sometimes in 3rd it feels like the pressure to the cluthes is intermittent causing it to jerk.

It regards to the repairs done, I replaced all the soleniods, foam piece, pan w/filter and of course the fluid.

It should also be noted that the old fluid, which I was told never was changed, looked like Yoohoo chocolate milk (sorry for the reference but its the best comparison).

For me it would make sense for the valve body to need rebuilding with the Sonnax kit as the other gears shift fine and grab like they should.
IMHO, the Sonnex kit is worth it and costs very little compared to replacing the transmission with another used tranny(which has the same risks) or having someone else work on the the tranny. However, those options could be invoked if the Sonnex kit does not resolve the issue.
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      01-21-2019, 07:40 AM   #86
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I certainly agree its something in the valvebody and I've already ordered everything to put the Sonnax kit in.

I'm going to have to greatly study your DIY and make sure I understand everything clearly.
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      01-22-2019, 06:32 PM   #87
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Anyone have a list of all ZF codes and what they mean? Seems difficult to find on the interwebs, for some reason...trying to find out what a 00511B is. Thx.
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      01-24-2019, 07:54 PM   #88
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Anyone have a list of all ZF codes and what they mean? Seems difficult to find on the interwebs, for some reason...trying to find out what a 00511B is. Thx.
I don't have the ZF code listing. I would contact xHP and see if they might have something?
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