[nobrakese28]

Hi,

The check engine light on my wifes 2009 335D with a hair over 50K miles just came. I ran the codes with my MAC Tools mini scanner, and came up with a Glow Plug Module code, I will post the exact code when I can re-scan it.

The car starts up perfect and runs great. Has anyone experienced this issue? Of course the warranty is expired, although I have the extended maintenance plan, the car is going in on Friday so maybe the dealer can give me a more detailed diagnosis.

The actual module is about $130, and the plugs are abour $25/each. But it looks like the entire intake manifold would have to be removed to access the module.

-Marco

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Search ebay. There are sets (module + 6 plugs) for less money. Be sure to get the right one. If you take BERU, both, module and plugs are labeled *102*. Manifold has to come off but that's the easy part of the repair.

On my car #5 and #6 are faulty. I'll change all six and also the module soon. Already had the manifold off two times this year. 3 times must be enough then. I do not fancy a 4th time

[CO335D]

I don't believe that you have to remove the intake if you are only replacing the module. You do, however, have to remove it if you are replacing glow plugs themselves.

I do believe there are some coolant pipes that may need to be moved/removed to reach the module located on the drivers side of the engine. It is essentially two plugs and two screws once you get to it.

SEE WORKSHOP MANUAL HERE

[nobrakese28]

Thanks for the replys. Whiteblue, was it a pretty easy repair? Anything I need to watch out for? I am guessing I should probably order all the intake manifold gaskets?

-Marco

[Got_Diesel]

Just had this happen to mine, posted a thread a few days ago about it. I haven't cleared the codes to see if they'll come back because i'm still under warranty so i want to see what the dealer will do. Car runs and starts fine.

[kiel_dafo_kenyg_as]

Originally Posted by nobrakese28

Thanks for the replys. Whiteblue, was it a pretty easy repair? Anything I need to watch out for? I am guessing I should probably order all the intake manifold gaskets?

-Marco

Removing the intake is time consuming when you do it for the first time and have to find out where all the hoses and wires are attached to.
The only but really worse thing that can happen is that one of the red washers falls into an engine port while lifting off the manifold. For a start you may have a look at the attachment *preliminary work.pdf*

For reassembling I recommend replacing the 12 gaskets for the ports.

Changing the GP relay requires skilled fingers and 1/4 socket extensions.
Changing the glow plugs requires some know how and (very important!) a torque wrench. Please read: http://beru.federalmogul.com/sites/d...gb_2014_fm.pdf

[Owen81]

Seems I may have a similar issue, I recently bought a 2009 335D and the CEL came on last night.
Ran the codes with Carly and got:

Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Fault: Receive news of IBS LIN-bus communication
Code: 49A5
Fault: Message signal is not valid in message
Code: 4A74
Fault: message fault
Code: 4A79

Reset the codes twice but they return almost immediately.
After searching for people with similar codes, it seems that it could be the glow plug unit, "Preheating control unit" as the ECU doesn't seem to recognize the messages from unit? Thoughts?

[Mik325tds]

Originally Posted by nobrakese28

Thanks for the replys. Whiteblue, was it a pretty easy repair? Anything I need to watch out for? I am guessing I should probably order all the intake manifold gaskets?

-Marco

Seems like this is a pretty common failure. Mine was defective as well. DTC was U0106: No messages received - preheating control unit GSG.
The glow plug module can be replaced without removing the intake manifold, but it is very difficult to get to. It's mostly blind work. The most difficult connector was the one on the bottom right side (X2402). There is a clip in the front and back that have to be depressed at the same time while pulling down. An angled needle nose plier did it for me in the end but there were many swear words spoken. After that connector was off it was a breeze.

[Wolddd]

Originally Posted by Owen81

Seems I may have a similar issue, I recently bought a 2009 335D and the CEL came on last night.
Ran the codes with Carly and got:

Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Fault: Receive news of IBS LIN-bus communication
Code: 49A5
Fault: Message signal is not valid in message
Code: 4A74
Fault: message fault
Code: 4A79

Reset the codes twice but they return almost immediately.
After searching for people with similar codes, it seems that it could be the glow plug unit, "Preheating control unit" as the ECU doesn't seem to recognize the messages from unit? Thoughts?

Sorry to bring up a old thread, did you ever find the solution to this? I have the same problem. Thanks

[mattm]

Not that old since my 2010 335d threw these codes this morning:

Motor Control:

Engine / Motor
Glow plug
Code: 004A7E

Glow plug
Code: 004A09

Message failed
Code: 004A74

message fault
Code: 004A79

Receive news of IBS LIN-bus communication
Code: 0049A5

Any thoughts or suggestions? It would not clear the faults on a restart via Carly. It would clear the code while the car is on.

[Owen81]

I replaced only the module which fixed it for me. Others have replaced some or all of the glow plugs as well. I believe there are tests you can do, but if you have recurring codes, you're going to have to replace something.

[montr]

Originally Posted by Owen81

I replaced only the module which fixed it for me. Others have replaced some or all of the glow plugs as well. I believe there are tests you can do, but if you have recurring codes, you're going to have to replace something.

Module only fixed my car also

[Mark M]

Guarantee the reason for all of the glow plug controller issues is due to a failed coolant thermostat. (plus that it's winter season)

To those that blindly just replace the controller, I expect you'll have shortened life from the part. Check your coolant temps, if they are not 86 to 88 degrees C, your thermostat has failed resulting in excessive glow plug activation while engine is running (not shown on the instrument cluster).

[TorqueAddict]

^ +1

[lnxguy]

Originally Posted by Mark M

Guarantee the reason for all of the glow plug controller issues is due to a failed coolant thermostat. (plus that it's winter season)

To those that blindly just replace the controller, I expect you'll have shortened life from the part. Check your coolant temps, if they are not 86 to 88 degrees C, your thermostat has failed resulting in excessive glow plug activation while engine is running (not shown on the instrument cluster).

Great info.

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by Mark M

Guarantee the reason for all of the glow plug controller issues is due to a failed coolant thermostat. (plus that it's winter season)

To those that blindly just replace the controller, I expect you'll have shortened life from the part. Check your coolant temps, if they are not 86 to 88 degrees C, your thermostat has failed resulting in excessive glow plug activation while engine is running (not shown on the instrument cluster).

This used to be the first response on every glow plug thread when I first came around. Surprised it took so long to be said. I replaced my thermostat and life is good. It makes a pretty significant difference.

[montr]

Originally Posted by Mark M

Guarantee the reason for all of the glow plug controller issues is due to a failed coolant thermostat. (plus that it's winter season)

To those that blindly just replace the controller, I expect you'll have shortened life from the part. Check your coolant temps, if they are not 86 to 88 degrees C, your thermostat has failed resulting in excessive glow plug activation while engine is running (not shown on the instrument cluster).

I checked my thermostat and temperature is OK. The glow plug module failed anyway

[Wolddd]

Originally Posted by Owen81

I replaced only the module which fixed it for me. Others have replaced some or all of the glow plugs as well. I believe there are tests you can do, but if you have recurring codes, you're going to have to replace something.

Problem solved!!!! Cars been to 3 garages, 1 being a BMW specialist and 1 being a highly rated auto electrician and the problem has been fixed by myself and a friend. Garage who did the glow plugs and controller have used the wrong glow plug controller 😐 Changed the glow plug controller, cleared the faults! Good as new

[chance91]

Hey everyone. Since this is one of the top hits on google, I figured I'd add my write-up here.

So, on a few of the sites I've seen some debate on if you need to pull the intake manifold to do just the control module. I gave it a try today, and it only takes about 1 hour and basic hand tools (and your basic curse word repertoire) to get it done. It does require patience and care as it is a tight spot around some potentially brittle plastics and hoses.

Here is my (abbreviated) method:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover. Straight forward, for first timers you'll need to get used to this. Just 5 or 6 Allen head screws.

Step 2: To make this as easy as possible, I removed the dipstick. This is after trying with it in place. Its 2x 10mm bolts. One top and all the way rear, and one at the bottom, accessible with an open end. You then turn, twist, and pull the dipstick out carefully and set aside.

Step 3: Remove the small plug from the Glowplug Module. This can be done using a 90* pick or small jewlers screwdriver to gentle lift on the clip, and pull the plug out.

Step 4: I tried pulling the large connector first. It didn't work for me. So, using a 10mm ratchet, 10" extension, and magnet, I removed the 2x10mm nuts. Get the magnet first cause you will drop them.

Step 5: Pull the module loose, and fish it out so the large connector is accessible. This is why we removed the dipstick. Using a needle nose or other pliers, carefully open both clips on the large connector, and pull the module free.

Step 6. I put the large connector onto the new module first, then fished it back in place. I then bolted it down, and put the circular plug in last. Then replace the dipstick, taking care to route the 2-3 hoses and wires around it.

Step 7. You should probably run the car at this point, and check around that area for any coolant leaks, just in case something got moved or loose. Just a recommendation from experience. After this, place the cover on and you are all set.

Hopefully this will help anyone else out who was going to just jump on the intake removal. Its not necessary. We did our manifold earlier this year for some EGR delete stuff. It IS required if you want to do the glow plugs, however. I would in most cases do all 6 glow plugs and the module at once, and be done with it for 80k miles.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by chance91

Hey everyone. Since this is one of the top hits on google, I figured I'd add my write-up here.

So, on a few of the sites I've seen some debate on if you need to pull the intake manifold to do just the control module. I gave it a try today, and it only takes about 1 hour and basic hand tools (and your basic curse word repertoire) to get it done. It does require patience and care as it is a tight spot around some potentially brittle plastics and hoses.

Here is my (abbreviated) method:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover. Straight forward, for first timers you'll need to get used to this. Just 5 or 6 Allen head screws.

Step 2: To make this as easy as possible, I removed the dipstick. This is after trying with it in place. Its 2x 10mm bolts. One top and all the way rear, and one at the bottom, accessible with an open end. You then turn, twist, and pull the dipstick out carefully and set aside.

Step 3: Remove the small plug from the Glowplug Module. This can be done using a 90* pick or small jewlers screwdriver to gentle lift on the clip, and pull the plug out.

Step 4: I tried pulling the large connector first. It didn't work for me. So, using a 10mm ratchet, 10" extension, and magnet, I removed the 2x10mm nuts. Get the magnet first cause you will drop them.

Step 5: Pull the module loose, and fish it out so the large connector is accessible. This is why we removed the dipstick. Using a needle nose or other pliers, carefully open both clips on the large connector, and pull the module free.

Step 6. I put the large connector onto the new module first, then fished it back in place. I then bolted it down, and put the circular plug in last. Then replace the dipstick, taking care to route the 2-3 hoses and wires around it.

Step 7. You should probably run the car at this point, and check around that area for any coolant leaks, just in case something got moved or loose. Just a recommendation from experience. After this, place the cover on and you are all set.

Hopefully this will help anyone else out who was going to just jump on the intake removal. Its not necessary. We did our manifold earlier this year for some EGR delete stuff. It IS required if you want to do the glow plugs, however. I would in most cases do all 6 glow plugs and the module at once, and be done with it for 80k miles.

it can be done without removing any coolant hoses or the dipstick. Also. ;

[lnxguy]

I just snapped off the top of the housing of the small connector with a flathead screw driver (The one that gives everyone problems) then removed the nuts, then got both connectors off. It's not easy if you have man sized hands, I beat my knuckles up pretty good. Removing the nuts that hold the dipstick and coolant hoses help.

[JayNC335d]

I gotta do this as soon as I get my new module. Not looking forward to it, looks tight as hell and rather annoying ha. Appreciate the advice of alternative approaches in case I lose patience