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      08-06-2019, 05:44 PM   #1
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NBT EVO Retrofit DIY Parts list

I'm about done with my CIC and Combox, they barely work and now that I've done the Alpine HIFI retrofit my CIC isn't working with HIFI coding it stays doing harsh audio because it still thinks it's on base audio no matter how many times I code the CIC..

So I'm going to retrofit the NBT EVO ID6 into my car but I'm not gonna pay $2100 for a kit, I see NBT EVO head units for around $400-600 on eBay and I can probably get it just as cheap from a junkyard.

If I get an NBT EVO head unit, and the retrofit adapter from bimmerretrofit or something, and the Bluetooth antenna. Is that all I need besides coding? And how exactly would I code the NBT.

I don't really care about SOS error or any of that, I've been too lazy to code out the SOS error from my combox Retrofit (which barely works with Spotify). I don't really care about connected drive and all of that, I care about having CarPlay though but not that much. I'd much rather have a newer system than the CIC anyway.

If anybody can point me into the right direction I'd appreciate. I've read through countless threads about NBT retrofits and so far I've concluded that I need the head unit and retrofit adapter and the bt Antenna, and the NBT display. I've heard something about an ATM module. But I feel like I can do this Retrofit cheaper just like how I spent on $300 on my combox Retrofit rather than $700.
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      08-06-2019, 09:35 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
I'm about done with my CIC and Combox, they barely work and now that I've done the Alpine HIFI retrofit my CIC isn't working with HIFI coding it stays doing harsh audio because it still thinks it's on base audio no matter how many times I code the CIC..

So I'm going to retrofit the NBT EVO ID6 into my car but I'm not gonna pay $2100 for a kit, I see NBT EVO head units for around $400-600 on eBay and I can probably get it just as cheap from a junkyard.

If I get an NBT EVO head unit, and the retrofit adapter from bimmerretrofit or something, and the Bluetooth antenna. Is that all I need besides coding? And how exactly would I code the NBT.

I don't really care about SOS error or any of that, I've been too lazy to code out the SOS error from my combox Retrofit (which barely works with Spotify). I don't really care about connected drive and all of that, I care about having CarPlay though but not that much. I'd much rather have a newer system than the CIC anyway.

If anybody can point me into the right direction I'd appreciate. I've read through countless threads about NBT retrofits and so far I've concluded that I need the head unit and retrofit adapter and the bt Antenna, and the NBT display. I've heard something about an ATM module. But I feel like I can do this Retrofit cheaper just like how I spent on $300 on my combox Retrofit rather than $700.

The $2100 kit is the cheap way. My retrofit and the two other retrofits I did for people were over $3,000. By the time you add on a backup camera, 8ohm subs, etc you are into big money. Also a real ATM is cheaper than the ATM emulator.

Someone in China made a wireless Carplay box for the CIC that is pretty good.
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      08-06-2019, 11:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
I'm about done with my CIC and Combox, they barely work and now that I've done the Alpine HIFI retrofit my CIC isn't working with HIFI coding it stays doing harsh audio because it still thinks it's on base audio no matter how many times I code the CIC..

So I'm going to retrofit the NBT EVO ID6 into my car but I'm not gonna pay $2100 for a kit, I see NBT EVO head units for around $400-600 on eBay and I can probably get it just as cheap from a junkyard.

If I get an NBT EVO head unit, and the retrofit adapter from bimmerretrofit or something, and the Bluetooth antenna. Is that all I need besides coding? And how exactly would I code the NBT.

I don't really care about SOS error or any of that, I've been too lazy to code out the SOS error from my combox Retrofit (which barely works with Spotify). I don't really care about connected drive and all of that, I care about having CarPlay though but not that much. I'd much rather have a newer system than the CIC anyway.

If anybody can point me into the right direction I'd appreciate. I've read through countless threads about NBT retrofits and so far I've concluded that I need the head unit and retrofit adapter and the bt Antenna, and the NBT display. I've heard something about an ATM module. But I feel like I can do this Retrofit cheaper just like how I spent on $300 on my combox Retrofit rather than $700.

The $2100 kit is the cheap way. My retrofit and the two other retrofits I did for people were over $3,000. By the time you add on a backup camera, 8ohm subs, etc you are into big money. Also a real ATM is cheaper than the ATM emulator.

Someone in China made a wireless Carplay box for the CIC that is pretty good.

So if I get the $2100 kit, can I code the NBT when it's installed after the car to code the NBT to HIFI with an enet cable since the NBT will be pre coded to my VIN and what not but my car basically has HIFI now but it doesn't show with my vin.
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      08-06-2019, 11:12 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
So if I get the $2100 kit, can I code the NBT when it's installed after the car to code the NBT to HIFI with an enet cable since the NBT will be pre coded to my VIN and what not but my car basically has HIFI now but it doesn't show with my vin.
Every single NBT Evo that came from another vendor that I ever coded has locked up on me. I think they lock the coding down.
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      08-07-2019, 12:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
So if I get the $2100 kit, can I code the NBT when it's installed after the car to code the NBT to HIFI with an enet cable since the NBT will be pre coded to my VIN and what not but my car basically has HIFI now but it doesn't show with my vin.
Every single NBT Evo that came from another vendor that I ever coded has locked up on me. I think they lock the coding down.
So I should let the vendor know to have it coded with hifi then too? I'm tired of my CIC, it worked with coding to HIFI the first time, sounded great and everything, now when I did my steering wheel and I reconnected the battery the CIC audio sounds so harsh and makes the new tweeters crackle and barely any bass coming from the Logic7 subwoofers. That was my last straw with the CIC.
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      08-07-2019, 01:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
So I should let the vendor know to have it coded with hifi then too? I'm tired of my CIC, it worked with coding to HIFI the first time, sounded great and everything, now when I did my steering wheel and I reconnected the battery the CIC audio sounds so harsh and makes the new tweeters crackle and barely any bass coming from the Logic7 subwoofers. That was my last straw with the CIC.
Did you use the bimmergeeks software with the factory coding profile to vo write 676 to the cas and frm then factory code the cic + amp?
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      08-07-2019, 11:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
So I should let the vendor know to have it coded with hifi then too? I'm tired of my CIC, it worked with coding to HIFI the first time, sounded great and everything, now when I did my steering wheel and I reconnected the battery the CIC audio sounds so harsh and makes the new tweeters crackle and barely any bass coming from the Logic7 subwoofers. That was my last straw with the CIC.
Did you use the bimmergeeks software with the factory coding profile to vo write 676 to the cas and frm then factory code the cic + amp?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
So I should let the vendor know to have it coded with hifi then too? I'm tired of my CIC, it worked with coding to HIFI the first time, sounded great and everything, now when I did my steering wheel and I reconnected the battery the CIC audio sounds so harsh and makes the new tweeters crackle and barely any bass coming from the Logic7 subwoofers. That was my last straw with the CIC.
Did you use the bimmergeeks software with the factory coding profile to vo write 676 to the cas and frm then factory code the cic + amp?
I'll try again with the bimmergeeks software because I've been using that all in 1 install, I still used the factory profile but when I put 676 in the vo I FA_WRITE to cas and frm/nfrm and SG_codieren for cic, and when I do FA_read on cas it shows e92_hifi instead of e92_stereo or something along those lines. Same thing when I look at the cic. Yet the EQ still sounds terrible ever since I've disconnected the battery
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      08-07-2019, 12:22 PM   #8
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I wonder if you need to delete the original audio system vo code.
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      08-07-2019, 02:58 PM   #9
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I wonder if you need to delete the original audio system vo code.
Base audio doesn't have it's own vo code, it's strange because the coding itself is still there after reconnecting my battery because my combox coding was still intact and still worked but for some reason the audio became all harsh.. strange
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      08-08-2019, 04:51 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
Base audio doesn't have it's own vo code, it's strange because the coding itself is still there after reconnecting my battery because my combox coding was still intact and still worked but for some reason the audio became all harsh.. strange
I never had any audio issues with the CIC. If you want to go Evo I know someone with a matched pair EVO + ATM pair.
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      08-30-2019, 10:27 AM   #11
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My car had S676A HIFI SPEAKER SYSTEM (which is base audio in the USA), which I had to remove when I added S677A HIFI SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL DSP.
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      09-03-2019, 06:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickco43 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_James View Post
Base audio doesn't have it's own vo code, it's strange because the coding itself is still there after reconnecting my battery because my combox coding was still intact and still worked but for some reason the audio became all harsh.. strange
I never had any audio issues with the CIC. If you want to go Evo I know someone with a matched pair EVO + ATM pair.
I'm thinking of just retrofitting the older classic NBT like what my 2015 435 had, what do you think i'd need for that besides finding a head unit and enbt adapter? I'd keep my CIC controller i don't care that much for touch. Coding it is probably my biggest worry.
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