[nicklockard]

9 OCT notes: listening for turbochangeover valve which is supposed to 'click' at 20 seconds after shutdown: I hear a soft moaning at the 16 second mark.

TEST1: static vacuum max and bleed down:

With car off, It went to 510 mmHg and bled down to 480. Repeat test 3x. On 3rd test, heard quacking noise from the Turbine Switchover Valve vacuum actuator (connected to tube 11 in diagram). And we saw the rod move back.

TEST2: live vacuum with car running:

With car running, testing vacuum at the suggested T (EGR cooler), the vacuum reached ~580 mmHg in ~7 seconds and held. Spec minimum is 737 mmHg. NOTE: my vacuum gauge peaks at 650 mmHg. So everything needs to be rescaled. The vacuum system probably is perfectly fine. I have not found a trusted vacuum gauge to verify against yet, but my Amazon vacuum hand pump reaches and holds max vacuum very quickly. I think just a bad gauge.


TEST3: test of the Turbine Switchover Valve vacuum actuator:
It holds 650 mmHg with no bleed down. Hits mechanical limits at 360 mmHg.

TEST 4: start car, let vacuum reach peak. Turn car off. Listen for valves actuating or releasing:

Started car. Reaches full vacuum at 10 seconds. Turn car off. One time I heard a click at 10 seconds after shutdown. Repeat test. Sometimes just hear a soft moaning, or hear EGR valve make noises.

TEST5: Connect vacuum hand tester at 12 of diagram to test the waste gate vacuum actuator.

Vacuumed down to peak vacuum. Holds without bleed down for 20 seconds. Upon vacuum release, we heard a very soft click one time but not the others.

TEST6: Vacuum down at compressor bypass valve connected to hose 15 in diagram. Held max vacuum with slow bleed down after 20 seconds. Upon release, heard a loud clicking.

TEST7: test of EGR flap vacuum actuator: the plastic nipple broke when trying to gain access to it. So I rigged up a fitting from rubber adaptor male into the female housing (not really a housing). Actuator moved to full mechanical extension at 280/650 mmHg. Bleeds down very fast. Not sure if actuator or the rigged up fitting, but need a new actuator now anyway.

Unable to test engine mounts: where are fitting located? A pic would help.
Ran out of time to do resistance checks. My buddy hosting had to have his garage back.
Want to fit a non-return check valve like you did. Where to fit?
Recommended next testing?


edit1: SUCCESS! I was able to clear codes finally, and they haven't come back for two days. App showed my 0-60 mph time went from best of 6.4 s to best of 5.9 s; quarter mile went down, and hp went from 221 to 239. It still isn't the 268 hp car I want, but making progress.

Please let me know if I should clean up any of these posts to keep your thread easy to follow.

edit2: I wrote too soon. Error codes came back. Back to the testing and replace that broken EGR vacuum actuator for me. Performance and fuel economy are very improved though, so that's really nice.

[Monroe]

Thank you. I have spent several days puzzling with my own photos and the possibility

that the shop had rearranged the vacuum nest. I can now re-assemble it

correctly.

[tryingtobebest]

EDIT: Nothing important, please delete!

[Yozh]

Stage 3 only.
Here is the thread (unrelated)
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=INPA+logging

Look in later pages.

[bayerischer]

omg i was gonna do this job, but after i seen what's involved i ll leave it to the shop next week, and thinking i might show them this too....

on the other note, how long this job took?

and any info from ISTA on 4180 fault?
thanks,

[bayerischer]

so this is what i have to do when changing the holder and pressure converters right?

[Torqu3]

Originally Posted by bayerischer

omg i was gonna do this job, but after i seen what's involved i ll leave it to the shop next week, and thinking i might show them this too....

on the other note, how long this job took?

and any info from ISTA on 4180 fault?
thanks,

I don't mean to sound rude, but if this is really difficult for you to do, I recommend buying an aftermarket warranty. A lot of jobs on these cars are difficult, but paying a shop to do them costs thousands at a time. It may be in your best interest to have some coverage.

[bayerischer]

so today, both pressure converters changed plus new holder, and underneath also changed electrical valve.

so the next thing is to change egr pressure converter and electrical valve next to that (will swap the old one that obviously didn't improve when changed today, so must be good)

this document i found that mentions both pressure converters and electrical valves for vacuum

what else could it be?

1.johnny bravo had similar problem but it turned out to be injector
2.another guy here is talking about transmission not able to transmit power to the wheels
3.some other guy had something wrong with some other physical part on vacuum system
4.could be any leak on intercooler too i guess?
5.MAP & MAF problem? I will test MAF by disconnecting and then driving to see the difference
6.can't think of anthing else now

[bayerischer]

so, while ago, i disconnected MAF and it drove the same, no improvement, so I guess it's ok

then I disconnectred EGR electronically and again, no change in driving characteristic

then I unplugged small pipe from egr pressure converter and I felt it was sucking vacuum....so not sure, if I should change egr converter or the electronic valve there

[robnitro]

When the engine is warm, the vacuum to the egr flap is on, using coolant to cool the egr, so feeling vac to it is normal.

Now i don't understand your logic. If you disconnected maf and it drives same, wouldn't that mean the maf is bad, as you might already be in low power mode? Iirc when i unplugged maf, i got warnings and had less power.

[bayerischer]

Originally Posted by robnitro

When the engine is warm, the vacuum to the egr flap is on, using coolant to cool the egr, so feeling vac to it is normal.

Now i don't understand your logic. If you disconnected maf and it drives same, wouldn't that mean the maf is bad, as you might already be in low power mode? Iirc when i unplugged maf, i got warnings and had less power.

i have heard that usually disconnecting maf, you gonna get more power for whatever reason, probably more air and more fuel are mixed by default, but the fact that it drove the same, means that maf is not bad. because if it was, again, it would drive better disconnected.

i had no warnings and I had no warnings when I disconnected EGR either

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Yozh

To test the compressor bypass valve vacuum actuator, same concepts apply. With airbox removed, disconnect at the spot indicated below and test vacuum hold and mechanical functionality by audible audition.

Attachment 1500320

Yozh, So if im understanding this right, and my pressure converter is working correctly, there should be vacuum in this line at idle, correct?

[Yozh]

Lee, I just want to make sure we are talking about compressor bypass the one on the air side.

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Lee, I just want to make sure we are talking about compressor bypass the one on the air side. The reason I ask is it is not controlled by a pressure converter but rather by an electric switchover valve (EL). It's either on or off. The EL valve is right at the end of the whole bracket with sensors and pressure converters. By the old differential pressure sensor. So, for the compressor bypass there should be no vacuum at idle. You will only see it when you are past 2800-3000 rpm and running higher boost. When I'm on the computer I'll post a TestO log to show the behaviour.

The ELs are easy to test. They should hold vacuum when applied at the input nipple. The one that points straight. If it leaks, replace. You should have a spare one from the EGR cooler. For the compressor bypass EL, because it's hard to reach, you can either test the output at idle to make sure there is no vacuum. Otherwise it's leaking. Or disconnect at the t-junction above pressure converters and test at the input to make sure it holds vacuum. If the nipples are mixed up then it will leak at the output. So test the input vacuum hold as well.

Yup, we are talking about the same thing. That was the info I needed. Wonder if there is a procedure in Rheingold to test that....Im getting an underboost pretty much across the board and Whitbread pointed me to this thing....so trying to see if its working...hoses are all connected... and I DO have a spare EV from the EGR I just took it off there this week and saved it.

[Andy198712]

whats the best vac hose? dia?
is aftermarket silicone good or OEM pre made cheap?

Cheers

[OmahaDZL]

So I just pulled the vacuum hose off that thing and checked it out...if there is any vacuum at idle, its tiny tiny...

What im more concerned about is that I put the mighty vac on it and it took about 17 psi to get it to close.... seems like a lot.....thoughts?

What Im dealing with is a HP turbo low boost situation.... not sure whats going on, but Whitbread pointed to this thing....

[Yozh]

Just to update this. Lee and I talked and it seems that there may not be a vacuum leak but rather a potential for the compressor bypass to stick or be slow. Low boost on low end may mean that compressor bypass is stuck open or not fully closed. Too bad it's well hidden and quite a bit of work to get to.

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

So I just pulled the vacuum hose off that thing and checked it out...if there is any vacuum at idle, its tiny tiny...

What im more concerned about is that I put the mighty vac on it and it took about 17 psi to get it to close.... seems like a lot.....thoughts?

What Im dealing with is a HP turbo low boost situation.... not sure whats going on, but Whitbread pointed to this thing....

Do you mean 17 in H2O vacuum? Because 30 in H20 is 14.6 psi... 17 h2o vac would be 8.27 psi vacuum.

17 in h2o vacuum is normal for a full close on a vacuum operated actuator. For example on the tdi vnt, starts at 5-8 in and ends around 18-20 in h2o

[bayerischer]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Just to update this. Lee and I talked and it seems that there may not be a vacuum leak but rather a potential for the compressor bypass to stick or be slow. Low boost on low end may mean that compressor bypass is stuck open or not fully closed. Too bad it's well hidden and quite a bit of work to get to.

can u tell how did u find out ?
and where is it located?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by robnitro

Do you mean 17 in H2O vacuum? Because 30 in H20 is 14.6 psi... 17 h2o vac would be 8.27 psi vacuum.

17 in h2o vacuum is normal for a full close on a vacuum operated actuator. For example on the tdi vnt, starts at 5-8 in and ends around 18-20 in h2o

Rob, ya just blew my mind...I have no idea.... I put my MightyVac on it and pumped it until i heard a click...the click was at about 17 psi....

[JuiceQuadre]

Originally Posted by bayerischer

i have heard that usually disconnecting maf, you gonna get more power for whatever reason, probably more air and more fuel are mixed by default, but the fact that it drove the same, means that maf is not bad. because if it was, again, it would drive better disconnected.

i had no warnings and I had no warnings when I disconnected EGR either

Same for me, tried this a while ago.. Disconnected maf and the car drove the same, no faults reported too. However i let it disconnected over the night and the next day after starting the car there were faults reported with the maf faults. No effect on the cars power whatsoever though.

So that led me to believe the maf is working, just like you

[robnitro]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

Rob, ya just blew my mind...I have no idea.... I put my MightyVac on it and pumped it until i heard a click...the click was at about 17 psi....

Sorry, what doesn't make sense is the max vac you can get is -14.6 psi.. so I figured you were saying in in h2o, which maxes vac at -30