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      02-23-2021, 09:32 PM   #1
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N52 Auto to Manual Parts List

I figured I would do a write-up with an overview of doing a auto to manual conversion on e9x RWD. I completed the swap last year and have had no issues. I unfortunately did not take any pictures of the conversion.

Parts Needed:

Used Manual Transmission from any RWD E9X 328
(2) Transmission Fill and Drain Plugs- 23127602815
Manual Transmission Fluid of Your Choice
Transmission Aluminum Bolt Kit – 23000392607
(3) M8 Steel Transmission Bolts - 23001222887
(2) M12 Steel Transmission Bolts - 23001222891
LUK 03-064 Clutch Kit
LUK DMF082 Flywheel
Clutch Release Arm Spring – 21517570284
(6) Flywheel Bolts – 11227520706
(6) Pressure Plate Bolts – 21207548052
Corteco Transmission Mounts – OEM Part Number 22316799331
Transmission Crossmember – 22316771065
Release Bearing Guide – 23117564680
OEM Clutch Fork Pivot – 21511223328
Oxygen Sensor Bracket on Pass Side of Transmission - 11787548283

Used Driveshaft from any E9X 328i with RWD and Manual
Febi Guibo – OEM part number 26117511454
(4) E-Torx Screws from Driveshaft to Differential – 26117571956
(6 ) Nuts for Driveshaft Bolts for Guibo – 26127536563

Used Manual Pedal Assembly from any e9X with Clutch Pedal Switch and Pigtail
FTE Clutch Master Cylinder - 21526773670
FTE Clutch Slave Cylinder – 21526785964
Hose from Brake Master Cylinder to Clutch Master Cylinder – 21521163714
Grommet for hose above - 21526863043
Clutch Line from Master Cylinder to Transmission – 21526864475
Grommet for hose above- 21521163894
Clutch Line from Transmission to Slave Cylinder - 21526765790
Clutch Line Bracket (Mounts to Slave Cylinder Bolts) – 21526765063
Clutch Line Bracket Grommet - 21521164603

Used Shifter Assembly from RWD 328 E9X (Selector rod, carrier and lever)
I upgraded to Teflon Shift Carrier Bushings available from various vendors
(2) Selector Rod Clips – 25117571899
Rubber Shift Boot- 25117542236
Shifter Carrier Bushing Rear - 25111222015
Body plug to seal hole from old auto shifter – 07147140849
Shift Boot and Knob of choice

Behr Radiator for Manual – OEM Part Number 17117559273
Lower Coolant Hose Assembly – 17127548223
Coolant Pipe from Engine to Water Pump – 11537535829
(2) Coolant Pipe Bolts for Above - 07129902813
Exhaust Bracket from transmission- 18207533441
Transmission Belly Pan- 51757167421
Belly pan Bracket – 51717111009
Belly Pan Bracket- 51757167828
(2) Exhaust Header Gaskets – 18107549447
(4) Exhaust Header Nuts - 18301737774

Optional:
Upgraded Clutch Pedal Bushing – Various Vendors
Clutch Pedal Pad - 35211108634
Brake Pedal Pad – 35211160422
Manual Gas Pedal Assembly -35426860000
Or get BMW Aluminum Pedal Set which comes with new covers and gas pedal- 35000410099

BMW Performance Shift Lever – 25117542200
Shifter Bearing for BMW Performance Lever- 25111220600
Shifter Rod Joint on Transmission – 25117580281
Dowel for Shift Rod Joint – 23411466134
Transmission Selector Rod Seal - 23128677736
Used Manual Lower Dash Trim Pre-Cut
Used Manual Transmission Wiring Harness



Special Tools I used:

Flywheel Lock – 83300493938
External Torx Sockets up to E18
T60 Torx Socket
14mm Hex Socket
Wobble Extensions
I recommend having some long extensions (at least 24 inch)
Full Set of Torque Wrenches
Transmission Jack
Motive Power Bleeder
Protools or NCSExpert for Coding


Wiring:

I used the factory manual wiring harness, but this really did not help me very much as I still needed to modify the wiring. If you can get the factory harness at a reasonable price I would still install it to make the install clean.
My car is a 2/2007 build before the wiring changes in 3/2007 so you should double check your wiring, but I believe these wires are the same. There are 4 pins on the clutch switch that all must be added to the car.

Pin 1 – Brown/Black – Ground
Pin 2 – Blue/Brown – Pin 18 DME plug x60001
Pin 3 – Purple/Grey - Pin 3 CAS
Pin 4- Blue/Black - Pin 41 CAS

For pin 1 connected the wire to the ground for the brake pedal switch. For pin 2, I used the wire that was cut going to pin 41 on the CAS and cut it a few inches back from the CAS. I then soldered the Blue/Brown wire to the existing wire, which goes to the computer box. I put a piece of wire onto socket 12527522387 and installed that into DME connector x60001 pin 18. The blue/black wire originally connected to pin 41 is at connecter x6031 in the computer box. I believe it is a white connector. Cut this wire near the plug and solder it to the wire going to pin 18. For pin 3, use socket part number 61131393724 and slide it into the CAS connector pin 3. On pin 4, I soldered the wire to the existing wire coming out of the CAS connector at Pin 41.

You must also install 1 wire from the reverse switch to the FRM. Using the factory manual harness, the wire from the reverse switch is now inside the engine computer box, but the body harness does not have the wire built-in to go to the FRM. I removed the Brown/Purple wire and socket from pin 6 on connector x6031 and slid into connector x6011 pin which is where the reverse wire ends from the transmission harness. At the factory shifter there will be a small plug that is no longer used with the brown/purple wire and 1 other wire. I cut this wire and soldered a wire to it and ran this over to the FRM module. If you remove the same wire pin that is no longer used at the connector with the brown/purple wire you can install that into pin 19 at the FRM module. Then solder those two wires together.

The final modification is to a plug containing Canbus wires in the computer box. If you removed the automatic transmission harness you can simply cut connector x6021 off the automatic harness. It will have 2 black/blue wires and 2 yellow wires. You must now solder the 2 black/blue wires together and the yellow wires together to complete the Canbus loop. Then install this connector back into the computer box.

I used Protools for the coding and it was quite easy. You now must remove $205A automatic transmission option from the VO in the CAS and FRM. You then default code the modules it tells you to. You will also need to reset the engine adaptations.


Cooling:

Due to the automatic transmission cooler you either need to just cut the lines and leave it in the car or replace several coolant pipes and the radiator. I replaced everything because I wanted this to be very OEM and figured having some new cooling parts would not hurt. You will need to replace the coolant crossover pipe, radiator and the coolant pipe from the engine that goes to the water pump. I believe that instead of replacing this metal pipe from the engine to the water pump you could install a z4/X5 oil cooler as an upgrade.
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      02-28-2021, 12:05 AM   #2
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wowy, great write up.
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      05-05-2021, 05:30 AM   #3
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Great details and write up! Thanks for taking the time and effort to document everything required for the swap. This should be in the DIY section perhaps.
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      05-18-2021, 02:01 PM   #4
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Great write-up. Thank you!

Curious whether you used 61116911072? I thought that using this harness would negate the need to splice and solder, but I'm still in the research process for my swap.

Very grateful for folks like you who post this detailed information. I'm swapping an xDrive car, but have been reading as much as I can on the wiring.
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      05-19-2021, 01:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90yyc View Post
Great write-up. Thank you!

Curious whether you used 61116911072? I thought that using this harness would negate the need to splice and solder, but I'm still in the research process for my swap.

Very grateful for folks like you who post this detailed information. I'm swapping an xDrive car, but have been reading as much as I can on the wiring.
That harness might work for use as a pigtail for the clutch switch. There is no getting around having to splice in wiring into the car. The factory harness is just not built for the manual. The good news is that we are talking about 5 wires and using my work arounds you don't have to run any wires to the ecu box, you modify the wiring that is already present. In my parts list I forgot to include the part numbers for the wiring "pins" for the various harness plugs. You can see the part numbers in my wiring write-up.
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      05-19-2021, 02:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjaudi View Post
That harness might work for use as a pigtail for the clutch switch. There is no getting around having to splice in wiring into the car. The factory harness is just not built for the manual. The good news is that we are talking about 5 wires and using my work arounds you don't have to run any wires to the ecu box, you modify the wiring that is already present. In my parts list I forgot to include the part numbers for the wiring "pins" for the various harness plugs. You can see the part numbers in my wiring write-up.
Okay thanks!

Any idea what the differences are between transmission wiring harnesses pre and post prod date split?
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      05-20-2021, 06:27 PM   #7
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And can someone please explain to me whether the pedal trim/kick panel has a section that pops out to make room for the clutch, or whether it’s necessary to purchase a different part…?

I don’t see this mentioned in any of the DIY guides, and RealOEM shows the same part for both auto and manual…?
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      05-21-2021, 01:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90yyc View Post
And can someone please explain to me whether the pedal trim/kick panel has a section that pops out to make room for the clutch, or whether it’s necessary to purchase a different part…?

I don’t see this mentioned in any of the DIY guides, and RealOEM shows the same part for both auto and manual…?
If you took that panel out of the car you will see the boot is already installed for the manual pedal. On the back there will be a rectangle to cut out that will make it fit the clutch pedal. I got lazy and bought one from a manual car on ebay for around 40.
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      05-22-2021, 11:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjaudi View Post
If you took that panel out of the car you will see the boot is already installed for the manual pedal. On the back there will be a rectangle to cut out that will make it fit the clutch pedal. I got lazy and bought one from a manual car on ebay for around 40.
Yeah that's what threw me off. I almost expected the panel would just press out but clearly that isn't the case.

Like you, I just bought one haha.

Thanks!!
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      05-24-2021, 04:40 PM   #10
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After going through this swap which I think after looking over the parts list doesn't seem that hard to tackle, does the car end up basically just like an original manual from BMW? Are there any issues, codes or functionalities that are lost to be aware of with this? (Apart from the transmission shifting itself )
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      05-26-2021, 12:20 PM   #11
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There shouldn't be anything different or not working. Every BMW wants to be a manual.
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      05-26-2021, 01:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92_William View Post
After going through this swap which I think after looking over the parts list doesn't seem that hard to tackle, does the car end up basically just like an original manual from BMW? Are there any issues, codes or functionalities that are lost to be aware of with this? (Apart from the transmission shifting itself )
All functionality will be the same as if it came from the factory. The car believes that is how it was built and running the 5 wires replicates the factory wiring. The cruise control, hill hold assist and mirror tilt down in reverse all work. The car also won't start unless the clutch is depressed.

I did forget to mention that in an automatic rwd the rear diff is 3.73 and a manual had a 3.23 diff. I left my 3.73 diff in place, which does make the car quicker, but runs at about 3000 rpm at 75 mph.
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      05-29-2021, 11:50 PM   #13
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I've got all the parts! Very much looking forward to getting them all installed come July.

How did you de-pin the connectors in the DME box? (For example, X6031 where you remove pin 6 and relocate it to X6011?) I opened mine up today just to get a read on what I'm working with, and I wasn't able to remove any pins.
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      06-03-2021, 09:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90yyc View Post
I've got all the parts! Very much looking forward to getting them all installed come July.

How did you de-pin the connectors in the DME box? (For example, X6031 where you remove pin 6 and relocate it to X6011?) I opened mine up today just to get a read on what I'm working with, and I wasn't able to remove any pins.
You unclip the wiring connector from the plug. The connector will then slide out. You then use a pick to depress the pin from the connector and it will slide out.
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      06-03-2021, 10:15 PM   #15
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a small jeweler's screwdriver will also work to remove the pins. I have a bunch of tools for this as well, small picks for most modern wiring harnesses will work fine and aren't that expensive.
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      06-03-2021, 10:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjaudi View Post
You unclip the wiring connector from the plug. The connector will then slide out. You then use a pick to depress the pin from the connector and it will slide out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hassmaschine View Post
a small jeweler's screwdriver will also work to remove the pins. I have a bunch of tools for this as well, small picks for most modern wiring harnesses will work fine and aren't that expensive.
Thanks guys. Since I posted that I went in and gave it a trial run to make it easier when I go to actually do it. Not that bad. Appreciate the info as well.
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      07-18-2021, 12:42 AM   #17
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rjaudi Are you able to provide any more detail on what the coding process entailed? I ask because I’m having some issues that seem to be related to DSC module, and since we both have prod dates that share wiring, perhaps I could glean something from you that might help me.

I know you used ProTools, so I don’t know how automated the process was. I used Standard Tools, so each module was coded separately.

Hell, it might not even be software related, but I might as well start here.

Thx
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      07-23-2021, 10:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90yyc View Post
rjaudi Are you able to provide any more detail on what the coding process entailed? I ask because I’m having some issues that seem to be related to DSC module, and since we both have prod dates that share wiring, perhaps I could glean something from you that might help me.

I know you used ProTools, so I don’t know how automated the process was. I used Standard Tools, so each module was coded separately.

Hell, it might not even be software related, but I might as well start here.

Thx
Protools automatically coded I believe 5 modules that needed to be changed when I altered the Vehicle Order. My car is RWD so I don't know if that could play into the DSC issue.
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      07-23-2021, 12:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjaudi View Post
Protools automatically coded I believe 5 modules that needed to be changed when I altered the Vehicle Order. My car is RWD so I don't know if that could play into the DSC issue.
Thanks!

Yeah… I must have forgotten your car is RWD. I think my issue is related to this being an xDrive car. I’ve seen similar behaviour when I removed the front driveshaft last year.
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      07-23-2021, 03:07 PM   #20
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Removing the front driveshaft shouldn't throw any codes by itself. When my xdrive was working well and I removed the front driveshaft it would work perfectly unless you lost traction and then it'd try send power to the front and nothing would happen so it'd go into limp. Maybe it is an actual issue with the system
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