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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Auto Transmission Fluid Change



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      05-09-2018, 12:59 AM   #265
shanker604
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any preference for the different ATF fluids ??
I have been using Liqui-moly engine oil for years in my Bmws

Liqui-moly 1800 TOP TEC
https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20.../dp/B00B80UVUU

Redline D6

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-RED3.../dp/B004BTGK6E

or OEM ZF fluid
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      05-12-2018, 06:18 PM   #266
mi_bimmer
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I have a 2006 325i with about 90K miles on it. While I had the car up on a lift to do the ATF drain and fill DIY, I noticed there was a small leak from the O-ring between the transmission and the thing in front of it (crank case?) It is part 10 (# 24317536355) in the picture on realoem

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=24_1042

Can anyone help me with this? Is this a serious issue? Do I need to take the car to a mechanic, or can I DIY fix this? Or just let it be?

I noticed there was some ATF on the plastic underbody before I started the drain/fill, so the leak must have been there for some time. Car seems to run just fine. I filled new ATF back in the transmission, so should be good for a bit. Just concerned whether this is something serious.

I love the car and would like to keep it if there's no major issues.
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      08-27-2018, 11:08 AM   #267
leif20
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So I bit the bullet on this decision and decided to do a pan and fluid swap at 120k miles. 2006 330i with ZF 6HP19. The job had never been done before, and I plan on keeping this car for a while, so I wanted to change out the 'lifetime' filter and pan. I know the previous owner of the vehicle did not drive it particularly hard and took care of most maintenance as necessary, and I wanted to keep that going.

I followed the DIY here and ran in to no issues at all, other than having relatively short jack stands and not much room to work. Also my jack pads seem to have cracked a bit due to the narrow points of contact. Other than that the DIY's here and other places on the internet (https://5series.net/forums/diy-do-yo...thread-137584/) have been VERY helpful. The car drives just as it did before the change, and I have no leaks. I have not yet reset adaptives but I am wondering if that step is truly necessary.

Some tips to reiterate:
- the job is very messy, make sure to have cardboard or oil absorbant pads underneath the car
- make sure to rub a thin film of oil on the pan gasket before installing, it's generally not a good idea to install dry gaskets
- I was able to pump in an additional 1.5 qt with engine running after the initial fill (4qt) until the oil started dribbling out of the pan
- the temp of the oil dribbling out of the pan as measured by IR temp gun was about 5 degC lower than what was measured via INPA

The fluid came out deep brown/black with what I assume is wear from the last 12 years and 120k miles. However, I did notice some shavings and black debris. The smaller particles are about 1/16" in size with a couple that are 1/8" and the big one being 1/4". I think this is fine, I don't see any obviously destroyed parts. Below are the pictures. Does it look like I have a bad trans? Or is this reasonable wear as expected at 120k miles? Also, has anyone ever cut open one of these pans to examine the filter? I think I might do this just to see what's been trapped in there and to see whether or not there's any more sketchy stuff.



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