[shadE9x]

My 2012 328i has always been a super solid car in the 40k miles I’ve put on it I’ve don’t a ton of preventative maintenance on it as well as some bits and pieces to add to the handling and performance of the car. Recently the issues began they started small ( sometimes the starter wouldn’t engage on the first try ), then I started experiencing issues with the lights staying on after removing keys and getting out of the car, and now the worst of these issues on cold starts after letting the car warm up for a minute or two I got to leave my neighborhood and the car keeps erratically shifting between 2-3 gear for no apparent reason and whenever I come to a stop it falls out of gear? I’m not sure how to describe it exactly but I come to a stop in Drive and when I go to pull away the car Revs up but does not move. ALL OF THESE ISSUES ONLY PERSIST WHILE THE CLICKING NOISE IS COMING FROM BEHIND THE DASHBOARD. After turning the car off and on again the shifting goes back to normal. I’ve tried replacing the GL30 relay ( did not make a difference and I still hear the clicking when the relay is removed ) I’m almost positive the FRM has some sort of internal fault but I can’t seem to connect the frm issues to why the car shifts so erraticly while the relay clicking sound happens. Any suggestions on what else I can check to diagnose this condition is appreciated.
I plan on checking the fluid level in the transmission this week

[ptpending]

you might have front or rear headlight level sensor worn out, in this case they short circuit to the FRM and FRM has glitches and this can discharge battery and affect whole car

[gbalthrop]

Fault Codes are the STARTING POINT in any diagnosis. In this case, Fault Codes in Fault Memory of:
1) DME (Engine Control Module);
2) EGS (Transmission Control Module);
3) FRM (Lighting Control Module).

If YOU do NOT have access to a Scan Tool/ diagnostic software (INPA/ISTA), you can get Fault Codes read FREE at most AutoZone/ Advance Auto, etc. parts chains.

Questions:
1) Make/Model of any Scan Tool/ diagnostic software?

2) Codes read? Warning Lights on Instrument Cluster?

3) WHERE does "clicking" sound originate? Under Steering Wheel? Under Glovebox? Elsewhere?

4) You say clicking continues when you remove "GL30 Relay". I presume you mean the KL30G or Terminal 30G (Accessory) Relay -- large, black, removable relay on the right-side of JB Fuse Panel, under Glovebox? Is the clicking coming from the JB Fuse Panel? If so, can you be more specific on WHAT PART of that panel it comes from? Top-Right? Center? There are several other relays INSIDE the JB Fuse Panel, soldered to its PCB (Printed Circuit Board).

5) Is the "clicking" sound a Ratchet-like repetitive clicking, consistent with "Relay Chatter", where relay contacts are opening & closing several times per second?

6) WHEN does clicking occur? At Key insertion? Ignition ON? Does it always CEASE when STOP button is pressed to turn off Ignition/Engine? If occurrence of clicking is "random", such as occasionally, after engine start, please try to identify any pattern, or most-frequent occurrence of clicking.

7) Do you have a Multimeter? (ESSENTIAL Tool, ~$10 at Amazon/ HFT)

8) Last-7 Characters of your VIN?
George

[shadE9x]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Fault Codes are the STARTING POINT in any diagnosis. In this case, Fault Codes in Fault Memory of:
1) DME (Engine Control Module);
2) EGS (Transmission Control Module);
3) FRM (Lighting Control Module).

If YOU do NOT have access to a Scan Tool/ diagnostic software (INPA/ISTA), you can get Fault Codes read FREE at most AutoZone/ Advance Auto, etc. parts chains.

Questions:
1) Make/Model of any Scan Tool/ diagnostic software?

2) Codes read? Warning Lights on Instrument Cluster?

3) WHERE does "clicking" sound originate? Under Steering Wheel? Under Glovebox? Elsewhere?

4) You say clicking continues when you remove "GL30 Relay". I presume you mean the KL30G or Terminal 30G (Accessory) Relay -- large, black, removable relay on the right-side of JB Fuse Panel, under Glovebox? Is the clicking coming from the JB Fuse Panel? If so, can you be more specific on WHAT PART of that panel it comes from? Top-Right? Center? There are several other relays INSIDE the JB Fuse Panel, soldered to its PCB (Printed Circuit Board).

5) Is the "clicking" sound a Ratchet-like repetitive clicking, consistent with "Relay Chatter", where relay contacts are opening & closing several times per second?

6) WHEN does clicking occur? At Key insertion? Ignition ON? Does it always CEASE when STOP button is pressed to turn off Ignition/Engine? If occurrence of clicking is "random", such as occasionally, after engine start, please try to identify any pattern, or most-frequent occurrence of clicking.

7) Do you have a Multimeter? (ESSENTIAL Tool, ~$10 at Amazon/ [...]

I have checked with my Autel scan tool and there are no codes present yet, to answer the clicking noise only happens for a few seconds when the key is inserted as well as when it is removed. It is never consistent. And yes it was the KL30g relay that I removed. Transmission issues still persist erratic shifting from 1-2-3 as well as sometimes not engaging when shifted to drive ( no clunking or grinding sounds ) as soon as I turn it off and back on it is perfectly fine and will drive with zero issues whatsoever. I need to use a bmw service program ( something similar to witech ) shoes a map of all the computers communicating through each other as well as whenever a computer stops responding. I plan on checking the transmission fluid level as well as data logging a drive to see if I can’t catch it acting up

[shadE9x]

Originally Posted by ptpending

you might have front or rear headlight level sensor worn out, in this case they short circuit to the FRM and FRM has glitches and this can discharge battery and affect whole car

I don’t have adaptive headlights, although I did flash the frm with bimmercode recently. I will try flashing it back to the backup I saved

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by shadE9x

I have checked with my Autel scan tool and there are no codes present yet, to answer the clicking noise only happens for a few seconds when the key is inserted as well as when it is removed. It is never consistent. And yes it was the KL30g relay that I removed...

If you would answer the questions in Post #3, we MIGHT be able to actually diagnose your issue instead of just talking BS.

I see from another Thread that you have a 2011 328i N52, apparently A/T. If you have an Entry-Level Autel, such as the 319, that ONLY connects to the DME, & if there is NO SES light on, it is unlikely there is any Fault Code in DME Fault Memory.

You didn't answer questions about Warning Lights. Does a Transmission "Gear" symbol, either Yellow or Red, ever appear on Instrument Cluster? Does "Gear Selected", which should ALWAYS be displayed on Lower Instrument Cluster Display, ever disappear from that display with engine running, particularly when there are issues with shift or gear engagement?

I will attach several ISTA ScreenPrints of 2011 328i CAS wiring, including activation of KL15/IO1069 Ignition Relay, & KL30G/1=IO1068 Accessory Relay, to NEXT Post. Note that BOTH of those relays are on/in the JB Fuse Panel & are Activated by Voltage Signals from CAS, when START Button is pressed to activate Ignition. You describe the "Relay Chatter"/Clicking as occurring when START button is pressed, either to turn Ignition ON, or to turn it OFF/STOP engine. That suggests an issue with CAS Activation of KL15 or KL30G. It would be helpful to know the SOURCE/Location of the clicking.

KL15/IO1069 Ignition Relay, soldered to JB Panel near Center of Panel, is activated by CAS sending voltage (from CAS KL15), via Green wire "15<JB", to X11010/6, Socket #6 of Connector X11010. X11010 is located at top-left of JB Fuse Panel. Disconnect that connector & examine pins & Sockets for any moisture/corrosion. Clean & reassemble. See if clicking still continues. If so, listen closely, using Mechanic's Stethoscope ($8 HFT) if possible, to determine SOURCE/Location of Clicking.

Likewise, KL30G/IO1068 is activated by Voltage from CAS KL30G, via Red wire "30G<JB", to X11010/2. So cleaning pins & sockets of X11010 would correct an issue with activation of EITHER relay. There is also the DME Main Relay, K6300, which is soldered to the JB Panel at Upper-Right (INSIDE). If Relay chatter comes from THAT location, after cleaning X11010, let us know. If you find moisture or corrosion at X11010, please attach photos if possible. It is possible that Pins/Sockets in CAS Connector X13376 are wet/corroded. Let us know if you have had water in either front footwell.

Please Read first 2 paragraphs of Post #3 re Fault Codes, & answer questions 1 - 8 if there are still issues.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints referenced in Prior Post, related to CAS in 2011 328i E90.
George

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by shadE9x

I don’t have adaptive headlights, although I did flash the frm with bimmercode recently. I will try flashing it back to the backup I saved

this level sensors are on all e9x with xenons headlight to adjust vertical height on the road, not only adaptive

[shadE9x]

Originally Posted by ptpending

this level sensors are on all e9x with xenons headlight to adjust vertical height on the road, not only adaptive

I don’t have xenon headlights they are halogen