[MyCar]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

The job is not that hard but just annoying because coolant is foul tasting. Buy whatever tickles your fancy from FCP and enjoy the lifetime warranty if the cost of the pump(s) over 5yrs for example is what bothers you.

I'm just curious if $1,300 is a fair price for labor and all parts including water pump and thermostat.

[nsjames]

it's reasonable, assuming OEM parts.

[delmarco]

Originally Posted by MyCar

the $1,800 includes the thermostat and water pump. So it's labor and parts. Still sounds way too high.

Dealership charges $1400 with a lifetime warranty on parts and labor when the pump/thermostat fails again in 50k to 60k miles. I would just get it done at the dealership and pay a premium but sleep well for the rest of the time I have the car knowing I will not have to pay another cent to get the pump replaced!

Here is my invoice when I replaced the pump lats January:


Also on the E90 "electric" pumps I'm always told that the pump failure is not a physical wear and tear (where materials matter like plastic vs metal) but the electrical circuitry deciding early on that it wants the pump to stop working.

not sure if the early E90 engines has a mechanical pump where a metal design would have made a difference.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by delmarco

Also on the E90 "electric" pumps I'm always told that the pump failure is not a physical wear and tear (where materials matter like plastic vs metal) but the electrical circuitry deciding early on that it wants the pump to stop working.

not true.

often the seal leaks, which lets water kill the electronics.
or there's debris from a failed thermostat or something else that jams the impeller. Which is why it's important to do the thermostat when you do the pump.
You don't want an old thermostat failing and killing your shiny new $400 water pump.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by nsjames

not true.

often the seal leaks, which lets water kill the electronics.
or there's debris from a failed thermostat or something else that jams the impeller. Which is why it's important to do the thermostat when you do the pump.
You don't want an old thermostat failing and killing your shiny new $400 water pump.

But how does a thermostat fail to the point parts of it breaks off. I never thought some pieces came off when it stuck open. I just thought the electrical eating element fails.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

But how does a thermostat fail to the point parts of it breaks off. I never thought some pieces came off when it stuck open. I just thought the electrical eating element fails.

beats me, but I've seen the photos.

[mainbearing]

Since delmarco showed dealership price at about $1400, I would say let the dealer do it, if an independent charges $1300. I would not say it was hard, but space was real tight and some hose clamp screws were not exactly facing the right direction.

I changed the water pump and thermostat on my naturally aspirated using an aftermarket all-metal Pierburg with a Mahle/Behr thermostat (Mahle bought Behr??). The turbo uses the VDO Continental with the plastic end.

I picked Mahle/Behr as the Whaler thermostat has a lot of leaky problems according to reviews. My original all-metal one I believe was Wahler.

Originally Posted by MyCar

I'm just curious if $1,300 is a fair price for labor and all parts including water pump and thermostat.

[banglenot]

Originally Posted by delmarco

Dealership charges $1400 with a lifetime warranty on parts and labor when the pump/thermostat fails again in 50k to 60k miles. I would just get it done at the dealership and pay a premium but sleep well for the rest of the time I have the car knowing I will not have to pay another cent to get the pump replaced!

Here is my invoice when I replaced the pump lats January:


Also on the E90 "electric" pumps I'm always told that the pump failure is not a physical wear and tear (where materials matter like plastic vs metal) but the electrical circuitry deciding early on that it wants the pump to stop working.

not sure if the early E90 engines has a mechanical pump where a metal design would have made a difference.

These are serious ripoffs.

The Continental belt, tensioner and pulley kit is about $100, and the job is, including a beer, about an hour.

The Pierburg pump kit, including thermostat and coolant, is $347 at FCP Euro. It takes first-time DIY about 3 hours (at most) on the RWD, and the harder AWD is 4 or five, due to very difficult positioning of the pump.

I've done both types. Tip: remove the passenger wheel and fender liner to go in from the side. Never an easy job, but this helps.

Yes, that's what some dealers charge -- but that doesn't make it any less a ripoff.

[WiL335i]

Originally Posted by MyCar

Who makes the most reliable water pump for the N55?

• Original BMW?
• Continental VDO? (This might be the same as original BMW?)
• Gates 41504E ?
• Any other brands that I should look at, maybe an all metal design?

Also, RealOEM shows a new part number 11519455978 (3/1/2019) which supersedes the old part # 11517632426 but then it says [COLOR="Red"]"nonexchangeable retrospectively"[/COLOR] for the new part number. What does this mean, which is the right part number? I can't find the new 11519455978 at any online retailers.

[COLOR="RoyalBlue"]
"11517632426
Coolant pump, electric
From:07/02/2012
To:-
Weight:2503.590 kg
Price:

[COLOR="Red"]Superseded by:
11519455978 (03/01/2019 — ), nonexchangeable retrospectively[/COLOR] "[/COLOR]

Anybody find the pump with the new part?
11519455978

My car popped that engine overheat warning light which I think points to the water pump failing. I was about to order the parts when realoem showed me this new part number. Now I can't find any online stores that offers this for sale.

[Tepr05]

Schmiedmann has it listed. They are a trustworthy shop, just a bit pricey plus shipping for this.

https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/produ...1-51-9-455-978

[WiL335i]

That link you gave shows the price at $552 for a pump! Out of stock for at least a 5 day wait time period and it looks like it's coming from outside the US. I think I'll just buy the current version of the pump since I don't have the time to wait. I have to fix my car ASAP. This sucks! I wanted to try the new revision of the pump. I wonder how long until we start seeing this new pump to start showing up online.

[tkong]

Originally Posted by WiL335i

That link you gave shows the price at $552 for a pump! Out of stock for at least a 5 day wait time period and it looks like it's coming from outside the US. I think I'll just buy the current version of the pump since I don't have the time to wait. I have to fix my car ASAP. This sucks! I wanted to try the new revision of the pump. I wonder how long until we start seeing this new pump to start showing up online.

I'm in a similar conundrum. I would love to check out the newest revision but at that price and with the alternative being waiting for other stores to get them (who knows how long that will take), I'm going to go with the 2nd most recent revision.

Still interested in what they changed in this newest one though

[MyCar]

Originally Posted by delmarco

Dealership charges $1400 with a lifetime warranty on parts and labor when the pump/thermostat fails again in 50k to 60k miles. I would just get it done at the dealership and pay a premium but sleep well for the rest of the time I have the car knowing I will not have to pay another cent to get the pump replaced!

Here is my invoice when I replaced the pump lats January:


Also on the E90 "electric" pumps I'm always told that the pump failure is not a physical wear and tear (where materials matter like plastic vs metal) but the electrical circuitry deciding early on that it wants the pump to stop working.

not sure if the early E90 engines has a mechanical pump where a metal design would have made a difference.

Well I’m an idiot. I went with the indy charging me almost $1,400, not even thinking the dealership may charge the same with a lifetime warranty included! It’s a bit disappointing to see this trend of indy shops charging as much as or sometimes more than the dealership. I guess I learned my lesson, next time ask the dealership for a quote as well. The indy didn’t use the latest part number either, guess that’s my fault too for not insisting the latest revision from March.

[mainbearing]

Agreed. Always give the dealer a call, you might find the quote better with genuine and latest available part, too. I have seen some indys that charged more than the dealer for an oil change, and not using BMW LL01 oil either!

(Not necessarily this pump, as I could not find it even on Tischer's web catalog).

[delmarco]

Originally Posted by mainbearing

Agreed. Always give the dealer a call, you might find the quote better with genuine and latest available part, too. I have seen some indys that charged more than the dealer for an oil change, and not using BMW LL01 oil either!

(Not necessarily this pump, as I could not find it even on Tischer's web catalog).

True! I always get a sense of what the dealership charges BEFORE deciding on DIYing stuff or going the indy route.

There is a growing trend where shops are becoming reluctant to work on modern era BMWs so they simply charge as much as they can to either get really paid for something they really don't want to do or to just chase you away.

Kilmer did a great analysis on this where he said there is so much cheap plastic stuff inside the engine bay of these new BMWs that to change wear and tear parts often times meaning breaking other things to get your target part. Not to mention things that need priming, re-coding and calibrating when done. The engines and parts are not only becoming more complex but also cheaply made as well.

I understand a few online videos may make the N5x waterpump work look easy but it is an overly labor intensive procedure relative to other engines where the waterpump is easily accessible and cheap to replace.

[Bilbofraggins]

Pierburg Waterpump - $267 with bolt,
Mann Thermostat $36,
Coolant Zerex G48 2 x 4 Litre ($18x2 =36)
Labour (Indy) $182

Total 600 Canadian with tax (450 USD)....

Changed at 100,000 miles...although still going strong at the time...(Pump was original).

Belt, pensioner, pulleys...did myself with a contitech kit for 100 in about 45 mins...1 beer.

Shift shaft seal...cost 75 bucks at the Indy, the seal is like 3 bucks......

This is my lads vehicle...

Did a brake job on my wifes F25 X3...Rotors, pads, sensor...550 Canadian using BREMBO...saved well over 1000 Canadian...

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Bilbofraggins

Pierburg Waterpump - $267 with bolt,
Mann Thermostat $36,
Coolant Zerex G48 2 x 4 Litre ($18x2 =36)
Labour (Indy) $182

Total 600 Canadian with tax (450 USD)....

Solid deal.

[Bilbofraggins]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Solid deal.

Having a good Indy...helps to pick up the slack...

[scottwww]

I guess it's too early to know whether the new version of the pump is any better than the old ones? Is there any info about what is different with the new version?



And for those who think that the problem is primarily with electronics, that has not been my experience. Three times the plastic housing gets a small crack that leaks.

[shawnsep]

Thought I'd add to this thread with my experience.
Recently got the engine hot error and pulled over to the side of the road.
It was of course the water pump that had failed at 65k km (40k miles).

I replaced it under extended warranty at an Indy in with the "latest" revision (11517632426)

Checking the dealership website also shows the same part number and no mention of 11519455978 which FCP is selling.

Is there a superior part # or should I not worry about it?

RealOEM shows both part numbers as compatible with E90 N55 335i and same up-to date of 11/2018 and no from date.

Also a side note that the price in Canada for just the Water Pump is insane at $790 CAD.
The entire Genuine BMW kit including a thermostat is $613 CAD from FCP.

[Julian2485]

Originally Posted by scottwww

I guess it's too early to know whether the new version of the pump is any better than the old ones? Is there any info about what is different with the new version?



And for those who think that the problem is primarily with electronics, that has not been my experience. Three times the plastic housing gets a small crack that leaks.

I'm literally changing my 4 pump because it cracked I'm going with the newest part number this time