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      04-22-2019, 02:11 AM   #1
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30FF code after Downpipe install - MHD Stage 2+

Hello, new to the forum but did not find a solution via the search function. I recently purchased a 2007 335i A/t with 85k miles on it. I purchased a package of parts from Arm Motorsports and installed them.

Initially I installed:
5" Stepped Intercooler, Charge pipe w/ Tial BOV, Dual-cone Intake and upgraded intercooler piping. I also installed new spark plugs and flashed the MHD Stage 1+ tune on it. The car was driving amazing and felt incredibly responsive and quick compared to stock. I noticed the low-end throttle response was a huge upgrade.

After a week, I decided to install my Arm Motorsports catless downpipes. It was a nightmare to install but eventually got them on. The o2 sensors did see some abuse unfortunately and the silicone housing got a little beat up. Additionally, the wires got twisted during install because I left them hooked up in the engine bay. (Mistake, I should have attached them to DPs before they were on the car)

I started up the car and didn't notice and bad signs or noises. I flashed the MHD Stage 2+ tune on the car and took it for a spin. I immediately noticed a sever lack of low end grunt, and the car feels like it's bogged down/hesitating between 1-2k RPMs with a very low amount of power and throttle response. Then it spools up and surges with power, but still doesn't feel right. When in 3rd or 4th gear WOT it gives me a 30FF engine code and goes into limp mode. Even before the code, the car feels significantly weaker than when it was in 1+ and working properly.

I took the downpipes off and re-installed them, doubling checking the bolts are not in the way of the wastegate actuator arm, I can take a picture tomorrow and post to verify they are correct. Still got the code, so I double checked all connections on the intake system, charge pipe, etc and found no leaks. I did a DIY smoke test and the only visible smoke to be released was out of the intakes where I had the PVC caps in to block them. I double checked the o2 sensors were in the correct positions, and never got an o2 code.

I noticed some vacuum lines were pretty frayed, and have new lines coming in the mail. However, I'm confused because all these issues happened immediately after the downpipes install.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I just need suggestions on what the issue could be.

Thank you in advance.
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      04-22-2019, 10:01 AM   #2
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The code has nothing to do with the dps. The dp installation was the catalyst for your issues only because something was knocked loose or broken during the job. You have a boost leak somewhere. If your vacuum lines are frayed that means they're original, and a likely culprit. Also check every coupler and connection from the hotside intercooler connection to the throttle body. Your boost solenoids might have finally decided to go as well, so look into testing them once you have new vacuum lines installed.
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      04-22-2019, 12:34 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
Hello, new to the forum but did not find a solution via the search function. I recently purchased a 2007 335i A/t with 85k miles on it. I purchased a package of parts from Arm Motorsports and installed them.

Initially I installed:
5" Stepped Intercooler, Charge pipe w/ Tial BOV, Dual-cone Intake and upgraded intercooler piping. I also installed new spark plugs and flashed the MHD Stage 1+ tune on it. The car was driving amazing and felt incredibly responsive and quick compared to stock. I noticed the low-end throttle response was a huge upgrade.

After a week, I decided to install my Arm Motorsports catless downpipes. It was a nightmare to install but eventually got them on. The o2 sensors did see some abuse unfortunately and the silicone housing got a little beat up. Additionally, the wires got twisted during install because I left them hooked up in the engine bay. (Mistake, I should have attached them to DPs before they were on the car)

I started up the car and didn't notice and bad signs or noises. I flashed the MHD Stage 2+ tune on the car and took it for a spin. I immediately noticed a sever lack of low end grunt, and the car feels like it's bogged down/hesitating between 1-2k RPMs with a very low amount of power and throttle response. Then it spools up and surges with power, but still doesn't feel right. When in 3rd or 4th gear WOT it gives me a 30FF engine code and goes into limp mode. Even before the code, the car feels significantly weaker than when it was in 1+ and working properly.

I took the downpipes off and re-installed them, doubling checking the bolts are not in the way of the wastegate actuator arm, I can take a picture tomorrow and post to verify they are correct. Still got the code, so I double checked all connections on the intake system, charge pipe, etc and found no leaks. I did a DIY smoke test and the only visible smoke to be released was out of the intakes where I had the PVC caps in to block them. I double checked the o2 sensors were in the correct positions, and never got an o2 code.

I noticed some vacuum lines were pretty frayed, and have new lines coming in the mail. However, I'm confused because all these issues happened immediately after the downpipes install.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I just need suggestions on what the issue could be.

Thank you in advance.
New vacuum lines is a cheap, inexpensive way to rule something out.

Turbo solenoids on the passenger side near the valve cover gasket could be your issue.

Gaskets -

Intake manifold
Throttle Body
Charge pipe connection to the throttle body
Both sides of the FMIC
Outlets attached to the turbos

Make sure all the connections on your inlets are secure. Even the ones on the turbos. The OEM connections are rather flimsy.
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      04-22-2019, 01:00 PM   #4
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Thank you both for the replies. I will first replace all vacuum lines that are frayed/damaged and then if needed replace both boost solenoids.

As far as the inlet/outlet piping goes, is there a good DIY on how to check those or the proper fitment? I haven’t seen those connections while messing with the downpipes.

Thanks again.
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      04-22-2019, 05:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
Thank you both for the replies. I will first replace all vacuum lines that are frayed/damaged and then if needed replace both boost solenoids.

As far as the inlet/outlet piping goes, is there a good DIY on how to check those or the proper fitment? I haven’t seen those connections while messing with the downpipes.

Thanks again.
Do you have OEM inlets or after mkt?
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      04-22-2019, 05:43 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Do you have OEM inlets or after mkt?
They are OEM.
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      04-23-2019, 02:08 AM   #7
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I redid the intercooler piping and replaced two vacuum lines and the FF code hasn’t come back after 20+ miles of hard driving. Went WOT in 3rd and 4th gear without issues.


However, there is still a bog down and hesitation between 1-2k RPMs where it feels sluggish and drops RPMs before accelerating. I’m not sure what could be the cause of this. I’m looking into a walnut blast since it’s nevwr been done but I’m not sure if that will help.
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      04-23-2019, 03:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
I redid the intercooler piping and replaced two vacuum lines and the FF code hasn't come back after 20+ miles of hard driving. Went WOT in 3rd and 4th gear without issues.


However, there is still a bog down and hesitation between 1-2k RPMs where it feels sluggish and drops RPMs before accelerating. I'm not sure what could be the cause of this. I'm looking into a walnut blast since it's nevwr been done but I'm not sure if that will help.
Replace all the vacuum lines with platinum cured lines.

https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...cuum-Hose-Kits

You will need about 15 to 20 feet.

Walnut Blast every 36,000 miles

Get a catch can

Change the oil (5w-40) every 7500 miles w/ an oil flush

Run a Fuel Injector Cleaner 2x a year like Redline or Techron 20 gallon formula. Liqui Moly also makes a good one.
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      04-24-2019, 12:56 AM   #9
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and reset all adapts.

Vanos,
lambda sensors and controls .

and throtte would not hurt.
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/Lo6aHZRo7XqtPkhL8
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      04-24-2019, 06:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
I redid the intercooler piping and replaced two vacuum lines and the FF code hasn’t come back after 20+ miles of hard driving. Went WOT in 3rd and 4th gear without issues.


However, there is still a bog down and hesitation between 1-2k RPMs where it feels sluggish and drops RPMs before accelerating. I’m not sure what could be the cause of this. I’m looking into a walnut blast since it’s nevwr been done but I’m not sure if that will help.
Walnut blast is a must. My car was done not long ago and at just 70k the valves were caked in carbon. Clean your Vanos solenoids as well if you have low power under 3k. Its very simple to do if you havent.
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      04-25-2019, 12:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Replace all the vacuum lines with platinum cured lines.

https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...cuum-Hose-Kits

You will need about 15 to 20 feet.

Walnut Blast every 36,000 miles

Get a catch can

Change the oil (5w-40) every 7500 miles w/ an oil flush

Run a Fuel Injector Cleaner 2x a year like Redline or Techron 20 gallon formula. Liqui Moly also makes a good one.

Okay, thank you to everyone giving me advice on how to solve the issue. I’m in the process of doing all of the above, and well as resetting adapts and cleaning the vanos. So low end power loss is typically non-boost related?
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      04-25-2019, 10:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
Replace all the vacuum lines with platinum cured lines.

https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...cuum-Hose-Kits

You will need about 15 to 20 feet.

Walnut Blast every 36,000 miles

Get a catch can

Change the oil (5w-40) every 7500 miles w/ an oil flush

Run a Fuel Injector Cleaner 2x a year like Redline or Techron 20 gallon formula. Liqui Moly also makes a good one.

Okay, thank you to everyone giving me advice on how to solve the issue. I’m in the process of doing all of the above, and well as resetting adapts and cleaning the vanos. So low end power loss is typically non-boost related?
30ff is vacuum related.
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      04-26-2019, 06:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
30ff is vacuum related.
Okay, my 30FF code went away but I still have a severe lack of low end power and the car stumbles down RPMS between 1-2k. After that the car builds boost and becomes fast again. However, no engine codes or limp mode with WOT.
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      04-27-2019, 02:36 PM   #14
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How old are your coils and plugs?
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      04-28-2019, 04:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r4dr View Post
How old are your coils and plugs?
The plugs were replaced with OEM Bosch plugs about 200 miles ago. I’m not sure if the coils have been replaced.
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      04-28-2019, 10:29 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by r4dr View Post
How old are your coils and plugs?
The plugs were replaced with OEM Bosch plugs about 200 miles ago. I’m not sure if the coils have been replaced.
You are on stage 2+ on OEM plugs?

The rule of thumb I know is that you should use NKG step 1 colder plugs gapped at .022, when you go over 400hp.

I'd invest into Eldor Coils from FCP Euro. Get both from them. You'll get a lifetime warranty. Get free plugs every 15,000 miles for example.
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      04-28-2019, 10:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
30ff is vacuum related.
Okay, my 30FF code went away but I still have a severe lack of low end power and the car stumbles down RPMS between 1-2k. After that the car builds boost and becomes fast again. However, no engine codes or limp mode with WOT.
Was watching video the other day, low end power or lack there of could be that your transmission fluid is low. If you don't know when the last time the tranny fluid was changed, I'd flush it all out through the trans cooler. You'll need about 12-14 qts.
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      04-28-2019, 10:38 AM   #18
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Items needed to be done BEFORE a tune is installed

1. New plugs
2. New coils
3. Oil Change plus oil flush
4. Walnut Blast plus install a catch can
5. New vacuum lines
6. Adjust wastegate
7. FBO - aka Downpipes & FMIC, upgraded airbox or DCI, inlets, outlets etc / if running beyond stage 1.
8. Trans fluid is relatively new
9. Differential fluid is relatively new
10. Coolant is relatively new
11. Make sure all oil leaks are fixed - RMS, VC, FCS, Megatronic Sleeve, OPG, & OFHG
12. Injector cleaning like Techtron 20 gallon formula or Redline
13. Index 12 injectors installed recently.
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      04-28-2019, 11:29 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
You are on stage 2+ on OEM plugs?

The rule of thumb I know is that you should use NKG step 1 colder plugs gapped at .022, when you go over 400hp.

I'd invest into Eldor Coils from FCP Euro. Get both from them. You'll get a lifetime warranty. Get free plugs every 15,000 miles for example.
This is not true and is unnecessary.

Several people have commented to me in the past running stock OEM plugs on 500hp+ without issue.
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      04-29-2019, 07:05 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mweisdorfer View Post
You are on stage 2+ on OEM plugs?

The rule of thumb I know is that you should use NKG step 1 colder plugs gapped at .022, when you go over 400hp.

I'd invest into Eldor Coils from FCP Euro. Get both from them. You'll get a lifetime warranty. Get free plugs every 15,000 miles for example.
I'm stage 2+ on oem Bosch plugs with zero issues.

I plan on trying newer S55 style plugs in the future but I have seen many people who run OEM plugs to large power levels without issue.
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      04-29-2019, 12:10 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
The plugs were replaced with OEM Bosch plugs about 200 miles ago. I’m not sure if the coils have been replaced.
You should be able to look at the coil pack and see what brand it is. Switching old Bosch or Delphi packs to the latest Eldor packs would be a good way to eliminate a very common source of issues before more complicated trial and error.
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      04-29-2019, 06:22 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theOkilla View Post
I redid the intercooler piping and replaced two vacuum lines and the FF code hasn't come back after 20+ miles of hard driving. Went WOT in 3rd and 4th gear without issues.


However, there is still a bog down and hesitation between 1-2k RPMs where it feels sluggish and drops RPMs before accelerating. I'm not sure what could be the cause of this. I'm looking into a walnut blast since it's nevwr been done but I'm not sure if that will help.
replace all of your vacuum lines. there are like 15 of them dude

if even one is frayed and leaking bad, your car will run like shit

it takes like an hour
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