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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > All-Wheel-Drive (Xi / xDrive) Talk > E91 Manual xDrive LCI Wagon Suspension Upgrade Thread



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      12-09-2019, 12:58 AM   #23
Soravia
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The wagons come with rear frame brace, the opposite of E92 / E82 / 1M frame brace. I'm also getting convertible frame brace parts and will combine the two.
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      12-09-2019, 01:00 AM   #24
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Rear diff rear bolt is connected to a vibration absorption weight, right after the mount bushing. Not sure if I want to delete it.
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      12-09-2019, 01:02 AM   #25
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To remove rear drive shaft, rear and mid exhaust has to be dropped. Hard to do when clamps nuts are sized so much impact wrench tore the clamp instead of the nut.

Another way is to use 4" cutting wheel to cut into the clamp and then rip it apart using impact wrench on the seized nut.
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      12-09-2019, 11:52 AM   #26
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Wow...amazing detailed work and DIY! Glad to see all of this being done. As for the front control arms/tension strut bushings: I went ahead and bought the front arms with the bushings pre-pressed but also want to replace the ball joints. Could you explain again the best way to remove the ball joints especially considering they will be pretty tight and rusted? Were you saying to remove the bushing end first and let it hang as you remove the ball joint screws? Or remove it from the ball joint first? Then the ball joint by itself?
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      12-09-2019, 05:12 PM   #27
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Love the finned diff cover. Sub'd!
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      12-09-2019, 06:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Igor_M5 View Post
Epic overhaul ! I'm gunna need to tackle the suspension on my xDrive E91 sometime soon too, might just follow suit !
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 Doors View Post
Wow...amazing detailed work and DIY! Glad to see all of this being done. As for the front control arms/tension strut bushings: I went ahead and bought the front arms with the bushings pre-pressed but also want to replace the ball joints. Could you explain again the best way to remove the ball joints especially considering they will be pretty tight and rusted? Were you saying to remove the bushing end first and let it hang as you remove the ball joint screws? Or remove it from the ball joint first? Then the ball joint by itself?
On all control arms, you have to release the torque from the sub frame side of the arm so the bushing is no longer binding and putting pressure on the spindle / king pin side. Once that's done, the ball joints side where you removed the nut will release.

Except for the steering tie rod ball joint. strut pressure will keep it down. Using tool will most likely damage the rubber boot on ball joint. Wait until strut is removed, or cut the tie rod end with 4" cutting wheel like I did. I was going to replace tie rod ends anyway.

Ball joint on the spindle / king pin is held by two screws and lots of rust. Remove the screws. Make it spin side ways by tapping the ear (where screws held it down) with a big flat punch. When loosened from rust, put in liquid wrench, then hit with large punch and hammer to knock it out. Best done off the car.

Finned diff cover is 1M. I don't own that. Just example of the picture on how it's mounted vs my wagon brace. They interfere for sure so I will use washers.
Anyone can put on 1M brace to sedans. Site sponsor ECS tuning should offer a kit. I got the brace off wrecked convertible. The rest are going to be new bolts and mounting pieces.

Last edited by Soravia; 12-10-2019 at 09:55 AM..
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      12-10-2019, 06:00 PM   #29
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I got in a spare set of new tension strut arms I won't be using.
I'll be selling them if anyone wants, with 60 duro meter poly filled along with new rubber in bushings to last longer and tighter front end. Fits all 3 series and 1 series xi xDrive of all years. Only to USA ppl of course.
I can fill it half or all the way to brim.
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      Yesterday, 01:09 AM   #30
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Up next is pressing in ECS Tuning (forum sponsor) brass caliper slide kit.
Unlike other kits, this one comes with stainless steel caliper pins so they won't corrode and seize the pads, has rubber O-ring at the ends of the brass so it keeps the lube in and debris out, and I bought it with install tool kit so there's little chance for the brass or aluminum calipers to get damaged. Install is done using hand tools.
I will be putting them on rebuilt calipers so there's no need to clean the holes the brass guides will go in. If there's rust, etc. they can deform the brass guides enough to not let the caliper pins slide.

One thing I would change from their manual is to put the lube IN the brass guides.
If you put the lube on the pins like the instructions say, the O-ring at the opening of the brass guides will just wipe them out!

https://blog.ecstuning.com/bmw-bronz...-installation/

Rear or non aluminum front calipers (The small ones)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...003326ecs01~a/

Front Aluminum calipers, notice uneven length.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...003326ecs02~a/

Install tool kit.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...t/003326ecs03/
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      Yesterday, 08:49 PM   #31
Soravia
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Got the rear axles out, then rear differential, and abs wires. Just need to disconnect the rear brake hoses to drop the rear sub frame, finally.

To get rear axles out, you have to disconnect lower control arms and pry away at the rear king pin / spindle to make space to drop the axle shaft out of the hub on differential.

I used transmission jack on the control arms to counter the pressure from the rear suspension spring to pull out the bolt. The spring will not fly out if you leave the rear damper and bushing on king pin connected to the arm.

You need the axles out, at least on the driver side to get to rear 21 mm bolt for differential rear mount. It is held by 27 mm nut against the vibration absorbing weight. Impact wrench will NOT work. Use ratchet, universal joint, 3" or 4" extension on bolt, and 27 mm wrench on the nut side.

You will need the parking brake line bracket bolts removed from the underside tunnel to give space to remove the front bolts on rear differential mount. I used 18 mm ratcheting wrench to get to them in limited space. You want something like a transmission jack to relieve pressure on the bolts and hold the HEAVY differential in place as the bolts are removed. Use two man lift to move the differential safely.
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      Yesterday, 09:28 PM   #32
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Rust makes it hard for anything to come out. I'll be rust proofing everything that goes back in.

ABS sensor has to be knocked sideway and pried out to come out.
The parking brake had to be knocked around and punched out.
I busted one Bowden cable tip, it will be getting replaced.

Holes in the replacement spindles will get sanded down and clear coated to prevent this kind of issue coming up later.
Original spindle got fused to the drive axle by rusted out hub nut so I'll have to throw them out. $$$$ damage done by rusted out $1.49 nut.

Replace the hub nuts on your cars while you can, or you'll have to replace everything.
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