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      10-23-2018, 08:43 AM   #1
JonEQuest
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Good torque wrench suggestions?

I need to get myself a decent torque wrench. I have a crappy HF one that has gotten me by but now that I am wrenching on a BMW I have been constantly borrowing my neighbors Snap On one. So I just need to get a good one of my own. I don't want to $150 wrench just a safe decent one.
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      10-23-2018, 01:00 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest View Post
I need to get myself a decent torque wrench. I have a crappy HF one that has gotten me by but now that I am wrenching on a BMW I have been constantly borrowing my neighbors Snap On one. So I just need to get a good one of my own. I don't want to $150 wrench just a safe decent one.
I'm probably the wrong person to talk to as I have three Snap-On/CTi digital torque wrenches in 1/2",3/8",1/4".

That said, are you ok with mechanical vs digital?

Digital now gives you a readout as you're approaching your set torque target, so that's really helpful.

Mechanical can be had for your price range. People have had success with Tekton as an off name but good value. I no longer trust Crafstman for torque wrenches as I had a few mechanical and digital ones fail — and their limited warranty (never was life for torque wrenches) is even more suspect with Sears going down the crapper; though I guess you have Lowes now. But bottom line I hate their build quality.

If you want quality but maybe not as high entry you could look into Mac Tools, but they are slowly getting to Snap On premiums.

You could also try this route: Go on ebay, find a cheap Snap On, spend some $$ to have it rebuilt/certified at Snap On. My digitorque costs me about $85 to rebuild, test, certify; but I bet a mechanical one is much less.
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      10-23-2018, 01:10 PM   #3
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I've bought Tektons 1/2 and 3/8 wrench and like them.

The only thing is I'm kind of a perfectionist/paranoid and there is no real way of knowing I think if they are out of calibration. But they have lifetime warranty that's good to.
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      10-23-2018, 02:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
I've bought Tektons 1/2 and 3/8 wrench and like them.

The only thing is I'm kind of a perfectionist/paranoid and there is no real way of knowing I think if they are out of calibration. But they have lifetime warranty that's good to.
Well reality is, if the readings really matter to you, all torque wrenches should be checked/calibrated every 2-3 years with variation for usage. Some shops and contracts require accuracy for performance and liability reasons so they require a recertification and calibration certificate annually (certificate costs extra in most cases).

If you just wanted to see if you're in spec or not, there are tools that you can buy just to measure accuracy — rebuilding is another thing tho, obviously. But depends if the lifetime guarantee covers torque spec or mechanical wear.
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      10-23-2018, 03:31 PM   #5
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Snap on digital. Expensive but worth it.

I have the older style snap on clicker torque wrench. bought mine on eBay for a good deal, and had them calibrated
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      10-24-2018, 08:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
I've bought Tektons 1/2 and 3/8 wrench and like them.

The only thing is I'm kind of a perfectionist/paranoid and there is no real way of knowing I think if they are out of calibration. But they have lifetime warranty that's good to.
Well I used to be the equipment planning engineer for a Lockheed Martin plant and bought calibration equipment for the metrology lab. I did spec and buy a torque wrench calibration machine. We calibrated all the plant's assembly line torque wrenches every 3 months. But the plant built rockets and commercial jet engine assemblies. It's a car, Dude. If the torque wrench is off by a few %, it's really not that critical. Headbolts/engine rebuilds being the exception of course.

OP, you should be a bit more specific about what kind of torque wrench you need and what you'll be using it for. It's not a one size fits all sort of thing. For example, ONLY use a beam-type 3/8-drive torque wrench for spark plugs. Wheel bolts, use a 1/2-drive click or digital type wrench, just because it's easier. Small fasteners with low torque values are better torqued using a beam-type wrench, since they really don't go out of calibration.

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 10-24-2018 at 09:24 PM..
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      10-26-2018, 11:25 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
I've bought Tektons 1/2 and 3/8 wrench and like them.

The only thing is I'm kind of a perfectionist/paranoid and there is no real way of knowing I think if they are out of calibration. But they have lifetime warranty that's good to.
Well I used to be the equipment planning engineer for a Lockheed Martin plant and bought calibration equipment for the metrology lab. I did spec and buy a torque wrench calibration machine. We calibrated all the plant's assembly line torque wrenches every 3 months. But the plant built rockets and commercial jet engine assemblies. It's a car, Dude. If the torque wrench is off by a few %, it's really not that critical. Headbolts/engine rebuilds being the exception of course.

OP, you should be a bit more specific about what kind of torque wrench you need and what you'll be using it for. It's not a one size fits all sort of thing. For example, ONLY use a beam-type 3/8-drive torque wrench for spark plugs. Wheel bolts, use a 1/2-drive click or digital type wrench, just because it's easier. Small fasteners with low torque values are better torqued using a beam-type wrench, since they really don't go out of calibration.
Right now I'm doing rod bolts. I just borrowed my friends torque wrench again because I'm working on things right now, but I'm going to get my own. what do you mean by beam type wrench?
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      10-26-2018, 03:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest View Post
I need to get myself a decent torque wrench. I have a crappy HF one that has gotten me by but now that I am wrenching on a BMW I have been constantly borrowing my neighbors Snap On one. So I just need to get a good one of my own. I don't want to $150 wrench just a safe decent one.
Schwaben makes a nice one.

Dewalt makes a good one too.

If you are doing stuff on the valve cover or oil pan you will need a small torque wrench capable of small values.

I have the one below and really like it:

https://www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Di.../dp/B00BANZ90W

I have this one too and like it:

https://www.amazon.com/Brown-Line-Me.../dp/B004INRUVC
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      10-26-2018, 04:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Well I used to be the equipment planning engineer for a Lockheed Martin plant and bought calibration equipment for the metrology lab. I did spec and buy a torque wrench calibration machine. We calibrated all the plant's assembly line torque wrenches every 3 months. But the plant built rockets and commercial jet engine assemblies. It's a car, Dude. If the torque wrench is off by a few %, it's really not that critical. Headbolts/engine rebuilds being the exception of course.

OP, you should be a bit more specific about what kind of torque wrench you need and what you'll be using it for. It's not a one size fits all sort of thing. For example, ONLY use a beam-type 3/8-drive torque wrench for spark plugs. Wheel bolts, use a 1/2-drive click or digital type wrench, just because it's easier. Small fasteners with low torque values are better torqued using a beam-type wrench, since they really don't go out of calibration.
LOL. I bought my Controltech 1/4" digital from a remanufactured set from Lockheed and had it checked/recalibrated.
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      10-26-2018, 08:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest View Post
Right now I'm doing rod bolts. I just borrowed my friends torque wrench again because I'm working on things right now, but I'm going to get my own. what do you mean by beam type wrench?
The wrench is made from a beam and has a pointer that points to a torque scale above the handle.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      10-26-2018, 08:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest View Post
Right now I'm doing rod bolts. I just borrowed my friends torque wrench again because I'm working on things right now, but I'm going to get my own. what do you mean by beam type wrench?
The wrench is made from a beam and has a pointer that points to a torque scale above the handle.
Oh, I have a cheap one like that.
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      10-27-2018, 12:04 AM   #12
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I've seen a handful of ways to calibrate a clicker type wrench using a beam type (since beam types don't get out of calibration much) or weights. Just search and quite a few results show up.

You may not be able to change the calibration of a click type wrench, but, you'll know if your wrench is off.
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      10-27-2018, 07:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest View Post
Oh, I have a cheap one like that.
That's the beauty of them, cheap, accurate and capable of home-calibration.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      10-27-2018, 10:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest View Post
Oh, I have a cheap one like that.
That's the beauty of them, cheap, accurate and capable of home-calibration.
I wonder how to check the one I have for accuracy.
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      10-29-2018, 01:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest View Post
I wonder how to check the one I have for accuracy.
Against a calibrated clicker
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      10-29-2018, 03:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Against a calibrated clicker
Ah, OK.
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      10-30-2018, 05:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonEQuest View Post
Ah, OK.
Or... set torque on a spark plug at 18 lb.ft. and if it doesn't rip through the head, then your wrench is accurate.
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      10-30-2018, 07:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Or... set torque on a spark plug at 18 lb.ft. and if it doesn't rip through the head, then your wrench is accurate.
whaaaaaaa?
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      10-30-2018, 09:38 PM   #19
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Quote:
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whaaaaaaa?
"If no torque wrench is ever checked for accuracy then none are ever out of calibration."
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      10-30-2018, 10:01 PM   #20
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