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      01-29-2018, 08:32 PM   #1
eyehategod
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Just bought a 2012 335i...maintenance recommendations?

Hey all,

A couple weeks ago I bought a 2012 335i (E92) that now has 40,000 miles on it. I want to take care of the car myself and learn along the way, so I'm hoping you guys can help me figure out where I should start. The CarFax shows two previous owners, the last owner had it as a CPO so it's always been maintained by a BMW dealership in PA. Records show:

10.8K miles: Oil + filter
14.6k miles: Brake fluid, battery charged, cabin air, fuel injectors replaced
21.6k miles: oil & filter, wipres
33k miles: brake fluid flush, fluids checked, cabin air, air filter, oil + filter

So now I'm at ~40k, and nothing has been done to it since 33k miles. First thing I did was buy a cable and Carly app, I'm not getting any codes except for instrument cluster and taillight out (it's not). BUT...I've noticed the RPM fluctuates a lot on cold start and sounds a little rough, but is fine after it's warmed up.

So, where should I start? I know I need an oil + filter change, I'm planning to do this myself.
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      01-29-2018, 08:39 PM   #2
ctuna
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Google Mike Miller BMW and download the old school maintenance
schedule.
45k for plugs on those.
Check air filters?
Look up Walnut Blast maybe a little early for that.
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      01-29-2018, 09:02 PM   #3
tlow98
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I probably wouldn’t start anywhere. That car is super new and in short order it will throw lots of codes that have nothing to do with maintenance.

I’d say just sit back and wait for it to tell you what it needs. These cars aren’t shy.

Doing a thorough check for oil leaks in a couple months might be prudent. the dealerships wash the engine bays so well that it’s impossible to tell if the car leaks oil.

Last edited by tlow98; 01-29-2018 at 09:28 PM..
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      01-29-2018, 09:22 PM   #4
eyehategod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Google Mike Miller BMW and download the old school maintenance
schedule.
45k for plugs on those.
Check air filters?
Look up Walnut Blast maybe a little early for that.
Thanks, haven't heard of that guide I'll look it up. You don't think I should do plugs now since I'm getting a weird idle? Walnut blast is the only thing I'm not looking forward to, since I don't think I can really DIY that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
I probably wouldn’t start anywhere. That car is super new and in short order it will throw lots of codes that have nothing to do with maintenance.

I’d say just sit back and wait for it to tell you what it needs. These cars aren’t shy.
But I should at least do an oil change now right? It's every 10k miles?
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      01-30-2018, 01:46 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyehategod View Post
Thanks, haven't heard of that guide I'll look it up. You don't think I should do plugs now since I'm getting a weird idle? Walnut blast is the only thing I'm not looking forward to, since I don't think I can really DIY that.



But I should at least do an oil change now right? It's every 10k miles?
Yeah. Who knows wtf they put in there, how much of it, and how much is actually left (bimmer stealerships are shady asf and make Jiffy Lube look like paragons)

Double oil change, new filter + cheap walmart 5w30 full synthetic and new filter (prewet it), run for an hour at highway speeds, dump in some seafoam, idle it for 5 minutes, let it cool for 30 then drain it.

Then put in your actual oil and another new prewetted filter. Also oil up and change the filter gasket.


Its a low mileage practically new car last thing you want is to screw it up by running somebody's wrong or low oil , and thats even if they didnt just reset the oil light without doing jack shit once or twice

Last edited by Adieu; 01-30-2018 at 01:52 AM..
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      01-30-2018, 02:44 AM   #6
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Do an oil change every 6k miles
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      01-30-2018, 12:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adieu View Post
Yeah. Who knows wtf they put in there, how much of it, and how much is actually left (bimmer stealerships are shady asf and make Jiffy Lube look like paragons)

Double oil change, new filter + cheap walmart 5w30 full synthetic and new filter (prewet it), run for an hour at highway speeds, dump in some seafoam, idle it for 5 minutes, let it cool for 30 then drain it.

Then put in your actual oil and another new prewetted filter. Also oil up and change the filter gasket.


Its a low mileage practically new car last thing you want is to screw it up by running somebody's wrong or low oil , and thats even if they didnt just reset the oil light without doing jack shit once or twice
Never thought to do the oil twice, what do you mean seafoam?
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      01-30-2018, 12:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyehategod View Post
Never thought to do the oil twice, what do you mean seafoam?
Also for oil, you don’t need to do it twice. Just empty it out once, and let it empty out for a few minutes after you think it’s empty and just fill it up again.

Some gimmick that you spray into the airintake that’s supposed help clean the engine. Don’t do it, it’s just a waste of time.
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      01-30-2018, 12:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ItsGary View Post
Also for oil, you don’t need to do it twice. Just empty it out once, and let it empty out for a few minutes after you think it’s empty and just fill it up again.

Some gimmick that you spray into the airintake that’s supposed help clean the engine. Don’t do it, it’s just a waste of time.
Thanks Gary - would you suggest doing the spark plugs yet? Like I said the engine is fine after its warmed up, but cold starts I get vibrations after the RPM drops below ~900, and sometimes will shoot back up for a moment before lowering again.

Only other issue I've experienced (besides some random rattling coming from the seatbelt extender on the passenger side) is the steering wheel...creaking? when I turn the wheel all the way, say backing out of a parking spot.
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      01-30-2018, 12:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyehategod View Post
Thanks Gary - would you suggest doing the spark plugs yet? Like I said the engine is fine after its warmed up, but cold starts I get vibrations after the RPM drops below ~900, and sometimes will shoot back up for a moment before lowering again.

Only other issue I've experienced (besides some random rattling coming from the seatbelt extender on the passenger side) is the steering wheel...creaking? when I turn the wheel all the way, say backing out of a parking spot.
I believe on the M3 it’s recommended to do so every 38k miles, but if you plan on keeping the car long term just do them anyways.

As for the steering wheel, don’t know.

You should do a complete fluid flush, might be costly but worth it.


Brake Fluid
Coolant
Oil
TransFluid
Power steering fluid

Well some of these can be done overtime


As for the RPM, I don’t remember how it was on my 335i, but could be signs of an ignition coil about to fail, they’re not expensive either. ICs are like $35/cad for the Bosch OEM ones. Best to replace in two banks of 3, don’t mix up the brands either. I believe BMW recommends to use the Delphi’s ones now
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      01-30-2018, 01:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyehategod View Post
Thanks Gary - would you suggest doing the spark plugs yet? Like I said the engine is fine after its warmed up, but cold starts I get vibrations after the RPM drops below ~900, and sometimes will shoot back up for a moment before lowering again.

Only other issue I've experienced (besides some random rattling coming from the seatbelt extender on the passenger side) is the steering wheel...creaking? when I turn the wheel all the way, say backing out of a parking spot.
Steering wheel creaking could be a couple things. 1 - it's sat for a while and needs a workout. 2 - These cars are known to have a squeaky column which means either lubing or replacing it. There is a rubber gasket where the column meets the firewall. If you pull that back and spray some white lithium it will go away.

Give it a workout for a while first.
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      01-31-2018, 12:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyehategod View Post
Never thought to do the oil twice, what do you mean seafoam?
Seafoam is an injector cleaner / flush product that can be added to fuel or oil

Double oil change with first change using cheap oil is just another cheap and simple way to flush it out without using anything harsh.... think of it as mouthwash for an engine or pre-rinsing your dishes before running the dishwasher

Since you DO get vibrations on cold start, cleaning it out with $30 of walmart oil seems like a cheap and simple first step.... I did it on my old high-mileage 20yo E36, it was the quietest smoothest engine I'd ever heard after. And MPG shot up like +30%
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