[Blksmth88]

Hey all, I was hoping to get some insight to an issue my car is having. Im kinda long winded when i post so bear with me please. and thanks in advance for any help.

Here we go. In a month my wife and i will be going to the Mvading the dragon meet and drive and im hoping like hell i can get my issue sorted before we go. Ive been on here for a while now, so i have been reading up on this problem. Im more of a reader than a poster but now im gonna have to throw my hat into the ring.

Car Info
The car is a 2012 E92 Msport with BMW perf exhaust 6 speed manual with 97k miles on the clock. Mods so far are:

MHD stage 1 and 2 tuning packs currently running stage 2
aluminum charge pipe
Catless down pipe (sounds amazing with the BMW PE btw)
removed choker valve for the clutch
K&N drop in
Aftermarket Coolant tank (OE split on me)
BMW Perf fan came on it
i think the intake is also BMW performance. Not sure i just know theres a sticker under there for the fan or the intake. Bottom line is theres not much done to this car.
The rest is brake work and cosmetics

Issue

Car has ran like a champ from day 1. Most fun ive ever had owning a car. However the first time i started seeing issues from it was after i installed my Mhd tune. What happens is i have a feeling of a fuel cut kinda miss. like it begins studdering and if i dont let out of it, the car will go into limp mode until i restart the car.
Its not all the time, day to day driving the car does just fine. Even more spirited driving it doesnt have a problem as long as i dont go past 3/4 throttle. i live in the mountains of NC so i drive up and down a mountain daily to work. no issues there. the only time this happens is if im at lower rpms and begin to mash into it + 3/4 throttle while also in a higher gear. Like 5th or 6th gear if i press in ill feel it start to pull as boost begins to build then it begins to studder and miss like its not getting enough fuel then it will kick into limp mode after a few seconds if i dont let up. Oddly if im in first or second with the rpms mid way up and mash into it, it doesnt do it as bad if at all. the car will pick up and go and maybe shudder once or twice but it doesnt shut me down like if im trying to full pull in a higher gear.

ive seen others with this issue but very few seem to come back with results after trying fixes. and there seems to be a mixed bag of what could cause this problem.

-Valvetronic motor being bad or having a worn gear shaft.
-Bad plugs or not replacing plugs after mods or at proper interval.
-HPFP going out
-Bad or dirty Injectors
-Bad coil packs
-Dirty or Bad Vanos Solinoids
-Reseting adaptations i have seen fix this issue but im not sure if i can in MHD.

I dont think ive seen anything else past that. I have no current check engine light. as soon as i restart my car the engine light goes off and it runs good as new until i wanna go fast again. but anyway heres the codes im getting.

2EE0- combustion misfires several cyl. fuel injection deactivation
2EEA- combustion misfire cyl 3 fuel injection deactivation
2EED- combustion misfire cyl 4 fuel injection deactivation
2EFE- combustion misfires. several cyl detected.
2F01- combustion misfire cyl 3
2F02- combustion misfire cyl 4

inactive codes.

2EF7 Misfire fuel injection deactivation

(ACTIVE) 2E0F- Valvetronic system deactivated adjustment fault too frequent
(INACTIVE) 2DD0- Valvetronic system: Warning threshold value, feedback control deviation exceeded.

a previous code i had was. (This one didnt come back after clearing months ago)
2DCE- valvetronic system no adjustment possible
2E0F- valvetronic system deactivated. fault too frequent.


None of my issues started until i tuned it with MHD. No im not saying that is what is at fault. im just pointing out that maybe adding more boost or fuel could have some to do with whats going on. I have no issues doing my own work on this car, ive been playing wrenches for a long time and went to school for it as well. I know the simple answer is replace the valvetronic motor and that may be the obvious fix but i wanted to get a little more info before going down that road considering cost and the fact that other problems can cause the valvetronic setup to have its issues.

Attempt 1. Before replacing Valvetronic Parts.

I have no idea when this car had plugs put into it if ever. so im going to try a stage colder NGK plug and see if that will maybe clear the miss. i just feel like if the valvetronic motor was bad id have more issues throughout my rpm range and not just when i give it full gas at low rpm and not at higher engine speeds. if im already at a higher rpm it usually doesnt cut out if i go further into the pedal. while im doing this im going to also test and clean my vanos solenoids just for peace of mind.
After trying to sort it the cheap way if that doesnt work Ill be doing Valvetronic work. Unless theres a better idea or someone can point me down another cheap road before the real parts come out.

Thanks for any help, and again i apologize for being long winded. i just wanted to try to include as much info as i could to possibly prevent some questions.

[Blksmth88]

Hmm no takers.. All well though, ill still try to keep an update here just incase someone has a similar issue.

One more thing i wanted to note that has also pushed me away from jumping on the Valvetronic motor is, I feel like if it were the culprit. I would have more of a miss through out the cylinders instead of just mainly 3 and 4. im anxious to see how those plugs look and even further after replacing them i may try to clean up the injectors too.

Before i purchased my car the previous owner had put it in the shop where he had several gaskets replaced for leaks. i think when this was done he also had it walnut blasted or cleaned at a minimum cleaned out some. Or so he stated, It may have not been done. either way ill be digging in when i do the plugs so ill do some explorative surgery to see what i can find and go from there.


So far ive got parts ordered so we will see how that goes and i Shall report back. Again gonna try a fresh set of colder and properly gapped NGK plugs. Vanos clean and test, prob gonna clean the maf and anything else i can find that can cause a hiccup when dirty. Thanks for looking, i hope to return with positive info soon!

[jlegelis]

Please post Datazap logs of the misfire occurring.

Also, is it fine with the stock tune?

[Blksmth88]

PROBLEM SOLVED!!! I FIXED IT!!!!!! Ok so the plan was clean stuff and plugs and see where that goes. I pull my car in and i realize I need to do things 1 by 1 so ill know what solves it if i do find the issue. I decided to start with the plugs, and as soon as i got the first one out i def felt like i was on the right track since my car has 97k miles and this plug says Bosche BMW 6.. its clearly a stock plug. I change out the set and none really looked bad just lean with a rough residue. What id consider minor build up. I gapped the new plugs at .022 tossed them in and went down the road. Not a miss in sight. Im still unsure how plugs could lead to the valvetronic code but i guess maybe it was trying to over compensate. Ill try to post pics of the old ones. Prob not every plug since they all looked about the same but ill show you what i was working with.

But to answer your question yes it was fine when stock but i never flashed back after the tune. Im guessing more boost and fuel was a bit much on the stock set.

[Blksmth88]

Here's how the plugs looked.

Not very good but there also wasn't any damage or bends in the electrode so I would have thought these guys would have been fine after a date with the wire wheel. Guess not. I'm just glad I squeezed by under 100 bucks but in hind sight plugs prob needs to be 1st on the list when you do run a tune.

[Blksmth88]

annoyingly the plug pics didnt upload on the app so ill put them on the computer or host site and try from home