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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > 328i died on the highway.. help



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      01-24-2021, 09:33 AM   #1
rivera1017
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328i died on the highway.. help

Hi everyone, this is my first post here as I have encountered my first major issue with my e92 haha.

I was driving on the highway last night and all of a sudden, I lost all throttle input, and the engine died out of nowhere. As I pull over to the shoulder, my power steering also goes out.

This was accompanied by the car lift warning symbol, and the service engine soon dash warning. I tried starting it back up and it would not turn over. After having it towed to the mechanic, the car started up fine and drove seemingly fine around the block.

Having the mechanic scan for codes today, but does anyone have a clue what the issue could be, or if I'm driving a ticking time bomb.

Thank you all!
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      01-24-2021, 09:38 AM   #2
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Do you know if the B+ cable was replaced under recall by n your car?

There is a known issue where the positive cable from the battery to the fuse block behind the glove box can work loose.

A loss of this connection could result in a total shutdown and power loss. Not much else has such instantaneous effect.
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      01-24-2021, 09:49 AM   #3
rivera1017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmatre View Post
Do you know if the B+ cable was replaced under recall by n your car?

There is a known issue where the positive cable from the battery to the fuse block behind the glove box can work loose.

A loss of this connection could result in a total shutdown and power loss. Not much else has such instantaneous effect.
Not sure if it has ever been replaced under the first owner. And I don't think I saw anything under the carfax for that. Is there a way I can check the connection by myself? Or would a shop only be able to check it?
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      01-24-2021, 10:03 AM   #4
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Good suggestion above, but without codes it’s just a guessing game. See what your mechanic says and post back here.
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      01-24-2021, 10:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivera1017 View Post
Not sure if it has ever been replaced under the first owner. And I don't think I saw anything under the carfax for that. Is there a way I can check the connection by myself? Or would a shop only be able to check it?
You can call your local BMW dealership tomorrow and give them your vin. They'll be able to check if that recall has been done or not. I'm probably going to call my local BMW dealership tomorrow to see if mines been done too .
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      01-24-2021, 10:28 AM   #6
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I doubt that the car died due to the power connection to the fuse box. Even if the battery was disconnected while running the car would stay running by alternator voltage.

Its possible the power connection issue is related to no start but not car shutting down while running. The shutting down could be many things, codes will lead the way but i am guessing fuel pump related.
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      01-24-2021, 10:47 AM   #7
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need some codes be patient let your mechanic pull the codes this should tell you what failed
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      01-24-2021, 11:26 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TunafishE93 View Post
I doubt that the car died due to the power connection to the fuse box. Even if the battery was disconnected while running the car would stay running by alternator voltage.

Its possible the power connection issue is related to no start but not car shutting down while running. The shutting down could be many things, codes will lead the way but i am guessing fuel pump related.
My memory isn't what it once was, but sudden shut-down was reported by folks here on this forum. Searching for B+ cable recall should yield the posts reporting this.

But, for sure, reading codes will be the fastest way to get to the answer.
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      01-24-2021, 03:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90yyc View Post
Good suggestion above, but without codes it’s just a guessing game. See what your mechanic says and post back here.
Just got the call back. The car wasn’t showing any codes and seems to be perfectly fine. So I guess we’ll see what happens next.
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      01-24-2021, 05:46 PM   #10
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Something similar happened to me last year. It was the crankshaft sensor. I had the dealer replace the sensor for me under my SULEV warranty.
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      01-24-2021, 05:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivera1017 View Post
Just got the call back. The car wasn’t showing any codes and seems to be perfectly fine. So I guess we’ll see what happens next.
I dunno if I buy that... Not saying you aren’t telling the truth—I just can’t see how there would be no codes stored after what you described... especially considering you saw warning lights on your dash.

Is this mechanic a BMW or Euro specialist? If not, it’s possible they don’t have the correct tools to properly scan your car. That said, even a mechanic who doesn’t regularly service BMWs should still have a scan tool capable of reading BMW-specific codes, so if this person/shop doesn’t, I would suggest going somewhere else.
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      01-24-2021, 07:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90yyc View Post
I dunno if I buy that... Not saying you aren’t telling the truth—I just can’t see how there would be no codes stored after what you described... especially considering you saw warning lights on your dash.

Is this mechanic a BMW or Euro specialist? If not, it’s possible they don’t have the correct tools to properly scan your car. That said, even a mechanic who doesn’t regularly service BMWs should still have a scan tool capable of reading BMW-specific codes, so if this person/shop doesn’t, I would suggest going somewhere else.
Mechanic said they had the dealership scanner and that they can read BMW codes. I feel like their scanner just isn't able to read BMW codes accurately. However, I took the car home (25 min drive) and I put the car through its paces as best as I could, and it gave me no problems at all.

I'm beyond confused. Might be worth it to find a BMW specialist somewhere and have them scan
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      01-24-2021, 07:50 PM   #13
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You didn't say which Engine you have N51 or N52.
You didn't say if the electrics were working or not.
If you have an N51 the gas lines in the Tank are known
to self disconnect. It will not throw codes as there is no
fuel pressure sensor or tester. So test for fuel pressure if you have an
N51 wouldn't hurt on an N52 either.

I suppose you did a visual on the Engine?

Did you have the Cabin Fuse Box connection recall performed if it was
in the range of dates effected .
Check all recalls for the car.
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      01-25-2021, 01:27 AM   #14
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Maybe loose or corroded battery connections? The right bump would one risky cause something like this if your connections are loose. I've had something similar and the negative battery cable was not tight.
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      01-25-2021, 03:24 AM   #15
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As e90yyc stated, if the SES indictor came on, then there is a stored OBDII code in the engine control unit (ECU). There has to be a stored code. When the engine restarted, was there a SES icon?

You don't give any history of the car, especially the miles it has. The SES light means there is something amiss with the fuel injection, air induction, ignition system, or exhaust system. Based on your limited description, I'd look at the fuel pump.

And yes the power steering would get heavy since there is no engine power powering the hydraulic system.
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      01-25-2021, 01:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
As e90yyc stated, if the SES indictor came on, then there is a stored OBDII code in the engine control unit (ECU). There has to be a stored code. When the engine restarted, was there a SES icon?

You don't give any history of the car, especially the miles it has. The SES light means there is something amiss with the fuel injection, air induction, ignition system, or exhaust system. Based on your limited description, I'd look at the fuel pump.

And yes the power steering would get heavy since there is no engine power powering the hydraulic system.
Sorry, car has 90k miles on it.

Same issue happened again today, it gave me a cc-id 309 code which is fuel pump. I’m pretty sure there’s a connection or relay that has gone bad. Other people said they have replaced the pump after a 309 code and nothing changed. I will updated when I figure it out
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      01-25-2021, 03:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rivera1017 View Post
Sorry, car has 90k miles on it.

Same issue happened again today, it gave me a cc-id 309 code which is fuel pump. I’m pretty sure there’s a connection or relay that has gone bad. Other people said they have replaced the pump after a 309 code and nothing changed. I will updated when I figure it out
Keep us posted.
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      01-25-2021, 05:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by culto View Post
Something similar happened to me last year. It was the crankshaft sensor. I had the dealer replace the sensor for me under my SULEV warranty.
same with my 08 with N51 engine but I live in CO and no dealers know anything about the SULEV. So, I just bought a CPS for $100 and spent half a day replacing it. it was super scary to drive when the car can die any time, plus it runs like 280* hot.
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      01-25-2021, 07:54 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhhiep View Post
same with my 08 with N51 engine but I live in CO and no dealers know anything about the SULEV. So, I just bought a CPS for $100 and spent half a day replacing it. it was super scary to drive when the car can die any time, plus it runs like 280* hot.
Your car got up to 280 degrees? I have heard N51s and N52s rarely blow head gaskets. At that heat many engines would be toast. My old pontiac 3400 sfi was.
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      10-08-2021, 03:02 PM   #20
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Ever find a fix for this? Dealing with exact issues, same ccid code. Haven't looked in INPA yet. Happened 3 times so far over the time span of two months.
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      10-08-2021, 03:06 PM   #21
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rivera1017 Car will consistently start back up no issues after 5-10 minutes with battery completely off as well, N51 engine. Thinking it might be the Fuel Control Module possibly over heating. I literally drove the car 200 miles yesterday in the late afternoon/evening and other longer trips with no issues. All three times have coincidentally been during mid-day, around 85 degrees Fahrenheit outside temperature or higher, during drives that are 10 miles or less.
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