[E92William]

Few hits and she cranked right up. Now to find a reasonably priced starter while I continue to drive on borrowed time lol

[tcphoto]

That makes me think that perhaps BMW should offer an extending baton just for that purpose. A tool/self defense item but where would the roundel go?

[Mosaud1998]

Originally Posted by E92William

Few hits and she cranked right up. Now to find a reasonably priced starter while I continue to drive on borrowed time lol

fcp is where id get one from

[Mosaud1998]

Question, would it really be harmful if I started the car and let it idle for 10-15 min? I haven't started it since Jan 4th. I dont want to drive it since we just had a snowstorm and It took me hours to detail it a few months back.

[colorado.e9x]

I idle my car 10-15 minutes almost every day in the winter. You should be okay, only reason they say it's bad is because of emissions I bet ya

[JonOhh]

Technically it's bad because cylinder temps don't get high enough during extended idling periods, especially from a cold startup where AFR is already very rich, to prevent fuel from piling up on the cylinder walls and "washing down" the oil film meant to protect the rings and cylinder walls.

Extended idling can also be bad for the timing system, as at low rpm the entire system gets jolted around by engine pulses.


Now, that being said, 15 minutes is not too bad at all, especially once or twice. You won't wear your engine any significant amount by doing that, and people do it all the time, so it's okay.

Cylinder wall washing is especially bad in diesel engines, so you'll find a lot of trucks that idle for extended periods of time usually do so in a "high idle" mode that keeps cylinder temps adequate.

That's just some of the technical information as to why people advise against idling, not necessarily trying to tell you you'll damage your engine. My personal limit is 5-10 minutes before I manually increase the idle to 2000 with the throttle. Probably unnecessary but peace of mind is worth it.

[Mosaud1998]

It's alive. Felt so good to hear it run Idk why the video quality is ass. Ignore the somewhat dirty garage

0 fault codes except for this which I've been getting. Doesn't seem like anthing major so

Smoke coming out of the oil cap (I opened it after I shut the car off). I think that's normal and a good sign that the engine got up to operating temps, I think.

[3PedalJake]

Re. my last post about figuring out where to cut the exhaust for the catless midpipes, I'm getting cold feet. There is nowhere I can cut it that will give me 1.75" of straight 2" pipe to either side of the cut, which is what the band clamp needs to go on tight. before I get into pipe expanders and things I decided to polish it up and try to fix the gash I put in the flange area and hang it back up whole until I figure out a better solution for the cat delete (I think it needs to be welded not clamped, but my welding skilz are lacking). Which brings me to my next point, any input on the best way to weld this gash shut appreciated. I have a HF "Titanium 200" multipurpose welder, both .03 and .035 solid wire and a tank of 75/25 gas, any suggestions on settings? I think the pipe is 409 stainless, not sure about that tho, also believe it is 16ga thickness. I don't have any stainless wire, and not sure it matters for a patch or not, I just need to seal up this oopsie crack I made while cutting it free from it's rusty studs.

[bmw335ie90]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Re. my last post about figuring out where to cut the exhaust for the catless midpipes, I'm getting cold feet. There is nowhere I can cut it that will give me 1.75" of straight 2" pipe to either side of the cut, which is what the band clamp needs to go on tight. before I get into pipe expanders and things I decided to polish it up and try to fix the gash I put in the flange area and hang it back up whole until I figure out a better solution for the cat delete (I think it needs to be welded not clamped, but my welding skilz are lacking). Which brings me to my next point, any input on the best way to weld this gash shut appreciated. I have a HF "Titanium 200" multipurpose welder, both .03 and .035 solid wire and a tank of 75/25 gas, any suggestions on settings? I think the pipe is 409 stainless, not sure about that tho, also believe it is 16ga thickness. I don't have any stainless wire, and not sure it matters for a patch or not, I just need to seal up this oopsie crack I made while cutting it free from it's rusty studs.

With 75/25 and regular steel wire the weld will rust eventually, but i don't think that will really matter. When I have welded exhaust pipes i used high voltage and medium wire speed and just made a bunch quick tacks stacked on-top of each other. Since you are only welding in one area, i would only do 1-2 tacks and let it cool. If you work too fast its going to warp the pipe and it is possible the flange wont line up well anymore.

Take this with a grain of salt though as I have only welded thin walled stainless pipe and handful of times.

[IllSic_Design]

As said, mild steel wire will rust, but won't really hurt anything since the exhaust is rusted anyways and you're just trying to fill the little cut. I'd throw the .030 in there and use the 16G setting. Maybe turn the wire speed up a tiny bit from the setting since you're trying to fill a gap. If you don't have much welding experience then yeah maybe do a bunch of spot/stitch welds to fill it up.

[3PedalJake]

Thx for the input, any experience is more than mine. So far I've welded a bracket on my mower deck and a wheelbarrow with flux core. I just got the bottle of gas, this is my first try with the solid wire. I didn't consider warping it, that would be bad. I was planning on tacking it a little at a time because I'm mostly scared of burning thru. It's OK if it's a crappy weld it's not structural it just has to keep the exhaust gasses in. I went and bought a 18" extension pipe at the auto parts store to slice up and try to patch, it's aluminized steel and feels thinner but hopefully be enough to get the feel of it. It's a tiny little job, but one I need to get right the first time.

And if it all goes wrong I'll go back to the plan of chopping off the cats and use a pipe expander on the midpipes to bring them up to same diameter as the OEM.

[IllSic_Design]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Thx for the input, any experience is more than mine. So far I've welded a bracket on my mower deck and a wheelbarrow with flux core. I just got the bottle of gas, this is my first try with the solid wire. I didn't consider warping it, that would be bad. I was planning on tacking it a little at a time because I'm mostly scared of burning thru. It's OK if it's a crappy weld it's not structural it just has to keep the exhaust gasses in. I went and bought a 18" extension pipe at the auto parts store to slice up and try to patch, it's aluminized steel and feels thinner but hopefully be enough to get the feel of it. It's a tiny little job, but one I need to get right the first time.

And if it all goes wrong I'll go back to the plan of chopping off the cats and use a pipe expander on the midpipes to bring them up to same diameter as the OEM.

Don't worry you will not warp that unless you put a LOT of heat into it, which you shouldn't with what you're trying to do. Yeah, just stitch/spot weld until it's filled if you're worried about burning through. Gas/Mig is a lot easier to get a decent weld with than flux core, and looks a lot better also

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Don't worry you will not warp that unless you put a LOT of heat into it, which you shouldn't with what you're trying to do. Yeah, just stitch/spot weld until it's filled if you're worried about burning through. Gas/Mig is a lot easier to get a decent weld with than flux core, and looks a lot better also

Thanks, I'm hoping I'm putting way more thought into this than it needs and this seam will stitch right up. I regret not being more careful with the sawzall when I was getting this out, but that's not an easy spot to get to and while I thought I was cutting stud I was cutting pipe. I heard the mig has less burn thru than the fluxcore, I put a hole in my mower deck with it and I think that's 14ga (the bracket is still attached tho lol) so I didn't even think of trying it on the pipe. I also think it's getting me nervous cause this is the last of a long list of stuff I did to this car before I can start getting it filled with fluids and brought back to life, wish me luck.

[colorado.e9x]

Well it's not a car but I finally got the bike a wanted. An 83 Yamaha Virago XV920. Quite the ugly duckling when stock but looks amazing when built as a cafe

[2one3E90]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

I have the same iPod (the U2 edition with the red click wheel). The reason it sounds better is that generation of iPod, the 5.5G, has a phenomenal Wolfson DAC - this is especially noticeable when playing uncompressed audio. I use it in my ’09 which has the Bimmertech PP82 amp, Logic 7 mids, and Vifa OT19 tweeters, and you can really tell the difference, even from a modern iPhone, like my XS. You can get OEM batteries from eBay as well, still, and drop an SSD in there for even more storage!

Wow why is that? Arnt cds the best quality not aux?

[longm1985]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Wow why is that? Arnt cds the best quality not aux?

I have no idea how CDs sound in my car. The player doesn't seem to accept discs. But the USB would be WAY better than an AUX, which is the case here.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Well it's not a car but I finally got the bike a wanted. An 83 Yamaha Virago XV920. Quite the ugly duckling when stock but looks amazing when built as a cafe

That's a great engine, and v-twins in general are great for cafe racers. Do to it what Buell did with the Sportster engine it'll be cool.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

That's a great engine, and v-twins in general are great for cafe racers. Do to it what Buell did with the Sportster engine it'll be cool.

When I was looking for a platform for a cafe it had to be a V-Twin. Best sounding/looking engine imo. What did Buell do? Half raw half black?

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

When I was looking for a platform for a cafe it had to be a V-Twin. Best sounding/looking engine imo. What did Buell do? Half raw half black?

I just meant sticking a big v-twin in a little sport bike. Take a look at the Buell S1 Lightning, it looks like it's all motor, which it basically is.

[Turro022]

Thanks for sharing!

[Hoody007]

Originally Posted by 2one3E90

Wow why is that? Arnt cds the best quality not aux?

You can get digital files with the same fidelity as CDs, but the streaming stuff like Apple Music is compressed - which is fine for most people, especially in a car where the acoustics aren’t perfect. If you want CD quality audio files, you’d need source material which is lossless (I.e. Apple Lossless or FLAC). These files take up quite a bit of space, however.

That gen iPod is known for having a really nice DAC, so coupled with good, lossless source material, you get really nice sound. Also, keep in mind that MP3 CDs will be lower quality than lossless digital files on an iPod - the source material, not the medium matters.

Anyway, to keep this on topic, I finished retrofitting the FLA mirror (round sensor). Works exceptionally well! I’ll be listing my old mirror in the classifieds if anyone wants it.

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I just meant sticking a big v-twin in a little sport bike. Take a look at the Buell S1 Lightning, it looks like it's all motor, which it basically is.

Thats pretty damn sweet I like that a lot. The bike I plan on building is a mix of a lot of inspirational builds but here's an idea or two: