[Yozh]

Originally Posted by mainiac

Hopefully I won't have to remove the passenger engine mount like ISTA+ shows. Did you just have to loosen the lower turbo or also the upper?

You do not need to remove the engine mount (and it's mount arm to the engine) unless you are removing the DPF. I did not even disconnect the turbo to DPF v-band clamp as the flex joint on the DPF is enough to allow for soem flex. For the turbos, the bolts are from the top and two of the HP turbo bolts hold LP turbo, as such, you need to undo at least those two and then the rest for the LP turbo.

[fsd350]

I was able to replace the PITA line when replacing my water pump. Still need to move the turbos but you will not have to remover the A/C compressor and bracket. You be accessing from the top.

[alex sol]

reviving this post because i have major oil leak and it looks to from oil pipe #1

i recall changing the a/c stretch belt which requires removing the rad (easy) and spinning the motor with the special bg tools tool with the four holes that go over the four etorx bolts... then slip in the Lisle tool to stretch the belt off.. and back on later...

then about 17 bolts for the turbos and a/c bracket... thanks bmw!!

anyone make a better replacement part? using some fancy an fittings?

is this under a lot of pressure? can we splice into the 'rubber' and replace ?

just looking for some cheats before going all in...

[alex sol]

just looking on ebay and wonder if i can make my own an banjo fitting and braided teflon or rubber line to replace the dreaded turbo oil pipe #1. Will it last any longer?

Will teflon make the tight turns or needs to be rubber?

any idea the size? an3, an4??

i would need two banjo fittings
a length of braided line (about 1 1/2 foot)

any thing i should be concerned about?

size of the banjo fitting holes(?) make sure they match up with the existing or buy all new including 4 copper washers

I've never played with these before.

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by alex sol

reviving this post because i have major oil leak and it looks to from oil pipe #1

i recall changing the a/c stretch belt which requires removing the rad (easy) and spinning the motor with the special bg tools tool with the four holes that go over the four etorx bolts... then slip in the Lisle tool to stretch the belt off.. and back on later...

then about 17 bolts for the turbos and a/c bracket... thanks bmw!!

anyone make a better replacement part? using some fancy an fittings?

is this under a lot of pressure? can we splice into the 'rubber' and replace ?

just looking for some cheats before going all in...

removing the radiator for a belt? Never. I think the lisle tool just isnt efficient enough being a professional

[tryingtobebest]

Originally Posted by alex sol

just looking on ebay and wonder if i can make my own an banjo fitting and braided teflon or rubber line to replace the dreaded turbo oil pipe #1. Will it last any longer?

Will teflon make the tight turns or needs to be rubber?

any idea the size? an3, an4??

i would need two banjo fittings
a length of braided line (about 1 1/2 foot)

any thing i should be concerned about?

size of the banjo fitting holes(?) make sure they match up with the existing or buy all new including 4 copper washers

I've never played with these before.

If it would of been #2 or #3 i would pm you detailed instructions of what to get since im half converted (Only 2, but 3 is easy as well) and pm you because it will be in my update for my build thread for this community...

My #1 never let go yet, so i can ONLY guess that you would need to convert everything to AN since feed for the distribution block would be AN4 and from TOP now! (That is because AN4 is pretty thick and WONT make the right radius turn to its own dist.block location)

2x 10mm Banjo to AN4(-4) straight fittings
1x 12"-14" PREMADE AN4(-4) braided hose, premade hoses are fairly cheap and they come in variety of sizes, so lose your idea of building even the line yourself...

Or you can source premade 10mm Banjo lines, something like this - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NASCAR-BREAK...2:pf:0&vxp=mtr
(but this is only for #1)

So in short words you would need at least AN4 for the feed of the blocka and can get away with AN3 for each turbo feed!

[alex sol]

@35dlci, you are right no need to remove rad.. i meant rad fan which is easy to remove... on torx 25 at the bottom, on 10mm bolt on passenger side... the rest are clips holding coolant line and ease the rad fan up... giving easy access to the main crank pulley.. i have the bg tool to turn the crank and the lisle belt install/remover to take off... more stupid design ie: no tensioner...

the part is 15 business days backordered here in Toronto so i will just bite the bullet an get one from ECS and pay the 50% premium for shipping or check rockauto and fcpeuro... all solid shops...

@tryingtobebest - trying seems to imply some doubt - consult the genius of Yoda. ('there is no try) ... but i digress.. the an3 fittings look great and I'd love to see the finished product. The an4 for the block looks soooo tight that i doubt i could fit the non stock (custom made) line so will bite the bullet and pick up the crappy oem part.

[alex sol]

@[tryingtobebest] - where do you get your fittings?

i looked at summit racing and will check a local race shop... Toronto Area..

[alex sol]

Okay, i dug into the 335d yesterday and removed the a/c belt after removing rad fan.

I'll follow the directions to remove the turbos so i have access to the oil line. $60 for the part probably not worth trying to make my own...

Was interested to learn because i want to make new fuel lines for my 964 and tidy up the engine bay look... lots of 30 year old ugly black rubber lines in my 964 waiting to fail

meantime will try a couple of the shops including Gregs Distributors who carry the Brakequip line of banjo and related fittings

@[tryingtobebest] who would you recommend to get premade banjo lines? Any industrial shop that does hydraulics? If i can easily find a shop, i'll get them to make me the 10mm 4an ss braided rubber line about 14" long. Will it be a problem to make the 90 deg turns?

also plan to check the oil return lines as I've heard these can be the reason why turbos blow up...

[robnitro]

How do the return lines cause failure? I would guess that on not deleted cars, the heat of regens cook the oil causing sludge to build up on the return?

[alex sol]

I was told by a friend that fried his turbos on 300zx (1990) that his return lines got clogged and ended stopping flow of oil and boom....

[alex sol]

i'm actually diagnosing the problem today by starting up and driving to pressure washer to clean off all the excess oil. about 4 litres has spilled out onto driveway and in my garage.

from inspection, i can see oil covering the no. 1 oil line area and dripping down towards the charge pipe that connects to intercooler, and the entire area going backwards to the exhaust manifold. wondering if there is more than one leak

[alex sol]

okay, removed:

small turbo - as yozh says... should i bother? 7 bolts (3 kinds of bolts - 11mm, etorx (2), 12point (13mm) got stuck so hammered a 1/2" with lots of pb blaster and backed out.. will be replacing with standard hex everything!!

upon inspection looks like the return oil line leaking (replace gasket due to heat??)

disconnect three oil lines (14mm) banjo bolt, remove six 5mm hex bolts, disconnect 10mm bolt that holds the return oil line, loosen 6mm clamp to return oil line, load up the pb blaster and ease back to front and entire small turbo with two air pipes comes off the larger turbo / into intercooler

removed intercooler

working on the 10 bolts that holds the a/c compressor

then looking for large turbo to dpf... considering to remove the passenger side fender panel(s)

[rps13jp]

I just had to replace #2 oil line to the small turbo on mine. It looks like BMW updated the oil line. The rubber hose section is now covered in metal heat shielding. Hopefully, this fixes any leaks until I have the cash to do a turbo swap next year. I don't want to pull the turbos until its time to swap them.

[smass]

Originally Posted by robnitro

How do the return lines cause failure? I would guess that on not deleted cars, the heat of regens cook the oil causing sludge to build up on the return?

I just pulled my return line to fix a leaking gasket. The return line looked new on the inside at 85k miles.

[bmwdiesel]

just to inform you, bmw is intentionally making these parts hard to fix, brittle, or to become brittle in +-5 years. they could easily make it a lifetime item, as they are well aware the longevity and reliability of various materials(they have to test just for certification sakes, so they are the experts what works and what doesnt whether they want or not) but they are relying on the brand's fandom and the perceived image of bmw as a luxury vehicle, so any breakdown won't damage their image or sales numbers
to tell you few facts:
1.some of their services are making more profit on servicing and parts selling than actual vehicle sales itself.
2.being overtaken by their competitors(merc, audi) in sales and other factors, they are purely focusing on PROFITS that even their ceo unashamedly confirmed, as opposed to sales volumes, and that means cheapest and lowest quality materials possible to serve the vehicle within its warranty, then it doesnt really matter for them...yes they will make it all bullet proof for you to see, but under the engine, it's catastrophy supposedly, such as their engine timing chains are thinner, their hoses cheaper, etc etc etc....
if they really want, they would build a car that is fault free 10 years easily with parts holding a lifetime, but they would lose money with that strategy and they are purely relying on the brand recognition as luxury brand and also sporty driving vehicles heritage even tho they are losing more and more customers due to unreliability

[Xerix]

Can't a solid non-rubber part be sourced like a brake line with a flange on it etc...?

It looks to me as though that there is no deflection/movement between these parts once installed on the engine.

[alex sol]

i made a nice part for $35 bucks... and it is a braided teflon line from start to finish... i reused on end and got a new banjo fitting on the other... the part that came out had four crimps from metal to rubber... each being a possible fail point... sad!!!

@xerix good question.. why not just make this part similar to braided steel brake lines???

@bmwdiesel i'm checking engine timing now as it seems to be off.. cranks but no start.. really 'wants' to start but just won't...

i have checked fuel at filter and rail
compression test - 300-320 using my cheapie harbor frieght type instruments

and have started a new thread... do i need a new high pressure fuel pump? hpfp? i don't think so after initial checks..

[JakemE70]

Originally Posted by alex sol

i made a nice part for $35 bucks... and it is a braided teflon line from start to finish... i reused on end and got a new banjo fitting on the other... the part that came out had four crimps from metal to rubber... each being a possible fail point... sad!!!

@xerix good question.. why not just make this part similar to braided steel brake lines???

@bmwdiesel i'm checking engine timing now as it seems to be off.. cranks but no start.. really 'wants' to start but just won't...

i have checked fuel at filter and rail
compression test - 300-320 using my cheapie harbor frieght type instruments

and have started a new thread... do i need a new high pressure fuel pump? hpfp? i don't think so after initial checks..

Hey Alex Sol,

Did this fix your problem? I am looking to do this replacement soon and would rather make a fix that is more permanent, i.e. without the possibility of the rubber part failing as it is now. Really curious to see how you ended up making the replacement parts, any details will help.

Thanks !

[JakemE70]

Originally Posted by tryingtobebest

If it would of been #2 or #3 i would pm you detailed instructions of what to get since im half converted (Only 2, but 3 is easy as well) and pm you because it will be in my update for my build thread for this community...

My #1 never let go yet, so i can ONLY guess that you would need to convert everything to AN since feed for the distribution block would be AN4 and from TOP now! (That is because AN4 is pretty thick and WONT make the right radius turn to its own dist.block location)

2x 10mm Banjo to AN4(-4) straight fittings
1x 12"-14" PREMADE AN4(-4) braided hose, premade hoses are fairly cheap and they come in variety of sizes, so lose your idea of building even the line yourself...

Or you can source premade 10mm Banjo lines, something like this - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NASCAR-BREAK...2:pf:0&vxp=mtr
(but this is only for #1)

So in short words you would need at least AN4 for the feed of the blocka and can get away with AN3 for each turbo feed!

Tryingtobebest would you be able to send over that detailed instructions? I am looking to order the parts necessary to do this job asap. Thanks!

[fearitself165]

Originally Posted by tryingtobebest

If it would of been #2 or #3 i would pm you detailed instructions of what to get since im half converted (Only 2, but 3 is easy as well) and pm you because it will be in my update for my build thread for this community...

My #1 never let go yet, so i can ONLY guess that you would need to convert everything to AN since feed for the distribution block would be AN4 and from TOP now! (That is because AN4 is pretty thick and WONT make the right radius turn to its own dist.block location)

2x 10mm Banjo to AN4(-4) straight fittings
1x 12"-14" PREMADE AN4(-4) braided hose, premade hoses are fairly cheap and they come in variety of sizes, so lose your idea of building even the line yourself...

Or you can source premade 10mm Banjo lines, something like this - https://www.ebay.ca/itm/NASCAR-BREAK...2:pf:0&vxp=mtr
(but this is only for #1)

So in short words you would need at least AN4 for the feed of the blocka and can get away with AN3 for each turbo feed!

Hey there friend. Don't hesitate to message me the instructions as well! I love modding the m57.

[smass]

I just replaced my oil lines and wanted to add a few tips. This was on an E70 X5. I did not remove anything related to the AC. Once the Turbos are loose you can pivot the front edge away from the block to get to the banjo bolt from the front of the engine. In theory, the top turbo does not need to be removed if the 7 manifold bolts are removed and the assembly is loose. The drain does not need to be removed but it is a good time to change the hose. The DPF does not need to be removed. Just loosening the V band is enough. E70 have a 2nd EGR which just needs to be loosed from the back of the turbo housing. Looking back, the charge pipe may not need to be removed as it has a lot of flex.

Once everything is loose, press the front edge of the turbo housing toward the pass side. Everything will shift and you can easily get a hand on the banjo bolt from above the ac belt. The back of the assembly shifts about a 1/2" at the manifold bolt holes. But the front assembly shifts about 1" which is plenty of room.